i thought they had a problem with the stock one and the new one is a revised version?

 

Changed mine at CED today in 10 minutes. The only hard part was getting the new one threaded. The new tensioner is real easy. Don't even need to pull the Valve Cover off.

Screw the old tensioner out (careful, mine fell apart as soon as it came out)... then screw the new one in.

 

Mine just came in I'll be doing this tmw

 

ya thread the new one is a pain. i had to rest mine like 3 times! also my stock one just fell apart when i did mine lol

 

just did this. this write up helped tons! and it was a piece of cake. less than 10 minutes. great job.

 

It has come time for me to do this on my car as well, but I have one quick question. I know you have snap wring pliers listed in the tools but do you actually need them, or do you not need them because the new one is one piece?

 

You don't need them.

I literally used one tool (two technically) when I pulled mine out. A Ratchet and the my ECOTEC Oil Filter Cap Socket.

 

i did my a week ago and all you need to do it unbolt the old one take it out and put the new one it

 

ya the reson i put pliers was if you needed to reset the part. or just buy the snap ring thingy mo bob

 

so just a quick question about this the chain doesnt come off any of the sprockets when u take the tensioner out? so no need to put tension on the chain

 

No. Pull the old one out... put the new one in.

 

alright thanks for the quick reply on this.

 

It's oil pressure operated, so when the engine is off, it releases the tension anyways.

 

so i just swapped the tensioner and took it out for a lil drive to make sure all was good and it threw a P0017 code all of a sudden. what could cause that

 

thats a cam/crank correlation code....

 

so what did i do wrong?

 

you torqued down the new timing chain tensioner correctly right?

 

does anyone now the part number for they updated tensioner from gm.. called couple days ago and the guy didn't know what i was talking about.. I got a 2005 ss and don't want to get the same one as in the car

 

it is in the first post
http://www.crateenginedepot.com/stor...P2216C133.aspx

 

yeah i did torque it. would that cause the issue if it wasnt torqued right

 

sounds like you could have some how skipped a tooth

 

DAM IT!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! all i did was spin the old one out n the new one in like some of the guys on here said that they have done

 

so its en-45027-2.. and if i call the dealer this will be the part number right

 

that is what i did to and it went fine
how does the car sound and idle
did you clear the code and see if it came back

the part number should be
12608580
it might be cheap online comparied to the dealer
i would just order it online

 

i cleared the code and it cam back....... and the car sounds about normal so in other word im gna have to take the valve cover off and and check the markings on the cams to the ones on the chain?