i'm scarry about it ... try to understand all thread ... but it's like a lot of something things))

Could you answer on those questions:?

1. About ring ... Must I take it off out there?





2. About chain - what i must to do for unlost marked teeth on cams? How to stretch chain after install?


I'm worry about all )) So sorry for my rus-English

 

1. No. Leave it alone.

2. You don't need to do anything there.

If all you are doing is changing the tensioner... you just need to remove the old one... and insert the new one to proper torque spec. Nothing else needs done.

 

Ok ))) Maybe it's bored

Thanks! Many thanks to you))

 

hey guys, when I went to do this, I saw that my timing chain guide was broke...where can I get a new guide? to replace it, do I just have to drop the front cover, (and all that crap) and re time?

 

All i can say is it was pretty easy do but i ran into a problem.

I removed the valve cover when i did mine to make sure it didnt moved when i took the old one out.

removed the spark plugs also.

anyways got it all put back together and now it wont start. turns over, just wont start.

Not throwing any codes so I dont think its the timing. I'm pretty sure i put the coil packs back in the right order.

I'm still working on it now so I'm sure I'll figure it out but if anyone has a suggestion please let me know.
__________________________________________________ ____________________________________

Turned out I managed to ground something out and blew a fuse on the injectors. put a new fuse in and she fired up no problem.

 

What you doing when chain weaked after installing new chain tensioner?

I'm scary when see it. And I placed old tensioner back (but unstaked it first and it start tension chaing to normal). But i want to place new ... so



Or i need to place some oil in it? It's very easy to lost teeth with weak chain, i'm think

 

for the chain not to tighten up, its meaning the tensior didnt set. so grab a hammer and kind of gently tap the back of the tensior head when installed. THERE SHOULD BE NO ADDING OIL!!!!

 

sub'd. so im not too sure what this ticking noise is, mine is most audible while DRIVING, not neutral. like a bunch of ticking that increases with rpms is this the problem? or do i got something else messed up. engine seems to be running fine, just loud noise.

 

There could be a million and a half ticking noises that you are hearing. This one will be coming from the back left of the engine bay (that's back left with you standing at the front of the car). Back by the timing chain.

If that's where the sound is coming from, you need to replace that sucker ASAP.

 

well can u hear it while the car is idling, because with mine, u can't rly hear anything until you're moving.. also a lil bit when ur just revving. much thanks for any input u got im effin' worried!

 

Mine only ticked for a minute or two after start up. Other people have had theirs do what your's is doing.

Have a friend or someone rev it while you listen in the engine bay.

If it were me... I'd just replace it. It will eventually need done... and it isn't THAT expensive of a part. Costs less than a tank of gas.

 

For clarification: ALL you need to do is thread it in, if it is the new style. There is no "setting" it.

None. Zip. Zilch. Nada.

 

^ x2 all I did with mine was un bolt the old one bolt invthe new one start car shut off start car drive lol

 

yea im in need of this bad, my car had been ticking and it would go away and i thought it was my exhaust bc it rattles bad sometimes. last night i was at the gas station and i went to start my balt, and it rolled over once then just made a snapping noise. I cant hear any compression on the motor at all when it goes to start so my valves are down, not being bent tho bc i dont hear a metal on metal smacking sound. hopefully its my tensioner, or my chain. and luckily i wasnt driving and shifting my car bc we all know the torque these put out.

I am gunna pull my valve cover off and see what i can diagnose as the problem. i am purchasing a tensioner and a chain just in case it is either. then ill bore scope the valves to check them and verify that my valves arent bent.

hopefully this process as easy as you all are stating. ill reply tonight after pulling the valve cover.

 

ok update: that wasn't my problem, it WAS a small exhaust leak (i mistaked it for ticking because it was the flex pipe, right by the engine bay) now i know for sure because someone called me a 'Spick' yesterday for my car sounding like a weedwhacker in a metal shed lol

 

so after getting home and ripping my valve cover off i found 8 broken rockers. all from the intake side. atleast i dont have to rip half motor apart to set the timing and deal with that. so im gunna order rockers in and get it fixed. i took the other 8 rockers out on the exhaust side. it is a fairly simple job.

anyone else have this issue?

 

Good Thread To Have

 

for reference, if you want to do this the RIGHT WAY and guarantee your car does not jump timing, SET THE NEW STYLE TENSIONER.
I don't care what anyone says, but I just had half my motor apart, including the entire front cover and every timing component. THIS IS THE RIGHT WAY TO DO IT.
If you don't manually set the new tensioner and rely on oil pressure to set it, YOU RUN THE RISK OF JUMPING TIMING.

We all know what can happen there. I am personally sick of seeing people **** their cars up because they don't know, or don't want to do this... it's sad.
The easiest way to set the new style tensioner is to take it apart. Get yourself some snap ring pliers, take it out, and the piston assembly and an oring cylinder will come out. Don't worry, there's nothing to mess up, you're not going to break anything.

On the piston assembly, you will see a piece at the bottom clamped to the spring. It has several notches in it. All the way at the bottom, there is the SET notch. It faces opposite from all the other ones. The pin on the piston body must engage this notch. The whole assembly will be shorter. Put a tiny little bit of oil on the oring and re assemble the tensioner. When assembled, the piston will have free play and will flop around. MAKE SURE THE SNAP RING IS PROPERLY SEATED.
From here follow the procedure in chapter 6 of the build book. There is pictures on how to SET the tensioner when it is in the car. NEW STYLE or OLD STYLE it is all the same.

I am upset at all the guesswork and misinformation going around these boards, especially on this subject. I'm not going to throw out names, but I just got into an argument with someone on this subject.
I AM NOT saying that the tensioner wont set if you just put it in and crank the car. That will set it, what is also POSSIBLE is that your car will jump timing, might be one tooth, might be enough to KO your motor.
I don't care what anyone says, this is the RIGHT way to do it, and I have PERSONALLY done it several times. Whoever wants to ensure that your car doesn't jump timing...DO THINGS THIS WAY

anyways, thats my rant... let me know if you need any more help...

 

Also, if ANYONE has any doubts about this or disagrees with me, go back and read Elusive89's post on page three.

 

Yeah. The bold part.

 

sub'd

 

So I'm torn between just plugging it in, or taking off the valve cover. Is it necessary to take the valve cover off and checking that it didnt jump teeth?

 

i took the valve cover off so i could know for a fact that it compressed. but after trying a few times to thread the tenisor in it would always be decompressed when i thought it was in and it poped out. i did this like 5 times. but i did pull the valve cover off about 100 miles after the install just to make sure it was fine. but to tell ya the truth if it didnt decompress and u went to start it, u would diffently notice something not right! if that happens i would reccomened re timing it!!! hope this helped ya

 

does this new one look right?

Old is the one on the top, new one is the one on the bottom

 

Yes. New design. Better. Just put it in.