You're correct. Like most newer cars, the tie rod ends and ball joints are sealed, and don't have grease fittings like older cars. Someday, if your ball joints get worn out and are replaced, the replacements may or may not have grease fittings. Until then you don't have anything to worry about.

What year was your Cavalier? If it was one of the newer ones, it quite likely didn't have grease fittings either.

 

Thanks for clarifiying that for me, appreciate it.
It was a 2000 Cavalier.
Wow... shows how much I know. Jeeze!

 

The industry norm and even warranty spec is not 3000 miles for oil changes anymore. That was 70's technology!

If you get your rocks off on changing oil at 3K go for it. EASILY go 5K with dino oil and 8k or more with syn.

I had my syn oil tested at 5K last year on my Z06 and the results spoke for themselves...go at least another 2K on it. Drained it at 7K when DIC read 15%, had that tested and results...could have gone another 1500. So at 7K the oil had not broken down enough to warrant changing it.

3k oil changes....sure when people were driving Pintos and Vegas....

Someone above posted that dino oil should be changed 3K or every 60 days??? OMG are you serious? And same person also said syn blends should also be changed then as well? What are you smoking? Is that why MOBIL1 sells a syn blend that says 7500 right on the bottle? What do you think that means and what they stand behind?????

Man I swear sometimes you wonder where people dream this sh** up...

 

hello,
I've never changed my own oil and i have just one question....

where do you bring your old oil to? does it cost money to have it disposed of properly?

 

I know pep boys and almost all of those quick lube oil change places can dispose of your used oil for free.

 

oh just for clarification the oil filter PF456G was replaced by the PF457G so the places that are putting the 456's in your cobalts are using up their old stock before the use the new ones.

 

how much money do you want to spend in the future. When i worked for an oil and fuel distributer(15yrs ago) i had an '89 ford probe. I ran full synthetic mobil one in it. I would change the filter every 5k and the oil every 15k. when changing the filter i would always top off with fresh oil. I pulled oil samples and sent them in every 2k miles to see how far i could make it. Mind you that was 15yrs ago. I wouldn't even try just changing the oil and never the filter......... depends on what kinda money you want to spend to replace your junk motor after awhile.

On another note..peeps on the first pg were talking about size of filters and motors, ect..... I had an '03 silverado ZZ1(5.3) that took the same oil filter as my '02 sunfire gt(2.4) go figure

Nice how-to btw +1 rep airboxmod

 

So do you really have to oil the rubber part on the filter because i did 2 oil changes so far and i didnt.

 

It won't hurt to oil it. It helps to seat the gasket when you put it in.

 

Brought mine to a jiffy lube the day I got it (preowned.. eheh). They drained it, stared at it from different angles for 10min, filled it (without asking what oil I wanted) then told me they were having a problem. They pointed at the filter cap, telling me they would haveto take the supercharger off to get at the filter! Which I promptly told them no. They appologised profusely and gave me the fill for free.. but WOW! these guys are geniuses!

$20 for a socket, adapter, and extension, I had it off and replaced in the autozone parking lot in 5min. Then checked the fluid level and there was barely a drop on the stick! I poured in a quart of slick50, still only half way up the fill line. So pissed off I got a quart of oil and dumped it in. Then it registers as overfilled. Guess I should have checked at half.

My guess is the morons put in the stock 2.2l 5quarts. So 2 quarts later puts me at 7. Is this dangerous?

 

You should. Eventually it's gonna end up sealing shut. The oil there will make it easier to take off next time

I would go out right now, drain it all, and fill up with some good mobile one. Sounds like they put regular old oil in there, not what you want.

 

And another filter too I'm guessing?

How's the extended performance stuff mobil 1 has?


As far as oil life goes, I personally believe it's in how you drive. I'm sure my grandmother could get 5k on crude. But driving like you stole it all the time reduces the life. So I usually do the 3k on most cars. My old escort went 5k between once, but the oil was frothy by that point.

 

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/GM-Ec...QQcmdZViewItem

Guys,
No on answered the first guy, but is this the socket we need? Or do we have a socket in a standard set that would work?

Thanks!

 

Here is what you do on a cobalt SS 2.4.
1. You pull the plastic cover off the engine (remove the oil fill cap first). Pull up firmly and it will pop off.
2. Remove the plug and drain the oil.
3. Then just use a crescent wrench or normal wrench (1 1/4") to turn the cap. Turn counter-clockwise (left) to remove. There is plenty of clearance for a wrench if you push the wire next to the cap down and out of the way.

Here is a pic of what it looks like.


It took me less than 10 minutes to do the whole thing.

The 2.4 takes 5 quarts flat so just get a 5 quart jug and save some money.
$19.94 for Mobil 1 Synthetic
$5.96 for the filter

To reset your oil life put your key in and turn it to the run position (don't start the car).
Press the info and reset buttons on your steering wheel (DIC) at the same time and let go.
The first option to come up will be the oil life reset. Press the reset button to reset the counter.

It is also a good idea to read the MANUAL as most of this is covered in there too.

Good Luck!

SWmaster

PS: Could a mod put this by the first post so that people can see it?

 

Where does everyone buy their oil. I live in Montreal, and I went to Canadian Tire and the Mobil1 5W30 was 38.99$ for a gallon? Is there anywhere cheaper I could go or should I use another oil?

Thanks

 

Hi,

I read that we should be changing the oil when it is at about 30-40%. Is that a little high? Do you guys do a visual check? At what % do u change the oil at?

Thanks

Gabriel

 

You can use that, but I just went and bought a normal old 32mm socket and it works just fine.

 

Thanks! That's what I ended up doing cause it was much cheaper at canadian tire.

 

The oil change went so well for this first time on my ss/sc '06. Next time it should go a bit more smoothly. The oil filter took a bit of playing with to get out, but other than that it went extremely well.

Thanks for the "How to" on this!!

 

Good how to write up! I'm going to be changing my Cobalt's oil this weekend, but I have one question. I didn't see anything mentioned about changing the large green o-ring that seals the oil filter cap, this should be changed with the new filter I assume? Does this o-ring come with the new oil filter? (I'm planning on buying an OEM oil filter from the dealer)

 

no the green O ring does not need to be changed the only thing coming from doing so many ecotec oil changes is to lubricate with a little bit of either old or new engine oil so that it's a little easier on your next oil change to get the oil filter cap off.

 

if you buy it from the dealer it will be 10 dollars more than anywhere else.

 

whats funny about buying the filter and oil from the dealer is it is more expensive but if you get the oil change done at the dealer its usually par if not cheaper then most other quick lube places.

 

Thanks guys. I got the oil change done on the weekend, very clean and easy job! Didn't bother changing that o-ring, just coated it with some oil. I don't mind paying extra for the OEM oil filter from the dealer, I just figure if I ever have any warranty issues with the car concerning the engine it will be good to show that I've been using Oem filters.

Cheers

 

I have heard that when draining the oil, not only do you unscrew the oil pans oil but there is another bolt for the excess oil in the supercharger. I have heard thats its somewhere close to the regular oil pan bolt.... ??