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i have a question on this, if ur installing this to the can port wires, what if u want to plug in an intercepter gauge as well or something else, will it not interfere with and one of them will not work like it does when u have a splitter?
Nope, it shouldn't interfere. Since you splice to the wires behind the OBDII/CAN port, and not into the port itself, it still allows you to plug whatever you want into the OBDII port.
The guy in that video I posted earlier does logging and tuning all the time through that port, with no issues.
Hey, I have a question. Did youre RPD just come on rather after install? I have an 09 and i have a blank screen after i hooked it up just as you did, same harness and all. Does it need to be flashed? No power? Bad unit? What do you think?
I'm guessing that if your car starts, it's hooked up correctly...
aside from verifying that the screen is getting power, it should ALWAYS start with the "SS" emblem on a red background screen...
Hey, I have a question. Did youre RPD just come on rather after install? I have an 09 and i have a blank screen after i hooked it up just as you did, same harness and all. Does it need to be flashed? No power? Bad unit? What do you think?
This is exactly what it should be like. This is a video of some friends and I finishing an RPD install.
No need to be flashed. It'll turn right on and begin functioning properly if it works and is hooked up correctly.
Hello all. Here's a quick write up I did when I installed the UAF display on my 09 Cobalt that only had the analog display. I posted this in the HOW TO section over 2 weeks ago but I guess it's not going to be posted. So, I just thought I would try and redo it here for everybody to see what pieces I used and what I had to do.
Well, I answered my own question from an earlier topic. I received my UAF display which included the windshield trim to replace my original piece. I also
ordered the mating 8 wire connector for the new part since the original is only a 4 wire. Those 2 pieces are the only parts that I purchased. Below is what
I did to make it work. I used scotch-locks to fasten a couple of my wires to the factory wiring but you can use whatever you prefer.
15306407 - CONNECTOR-W/LEADS, 8-WAY F. *BLACK *MATH DATA
Dealer Price $62.47 List Price $124.91 Trade Price $87.44
1. removed original trim by removing the torx screw on the top behind the round plug and pulling slightly to release the 2 clips
2. disconnected the 4 wire connector from the factory analog boost guage
3. get the 15306407 connector and trim the excess wire off of wires coming from pins C and H leaving around 3 inches from connector
4. scotch-lock wire from pin C of 6407 to the pink wire (pin A) from original boost guage connector
5. scotch-lock wire from pin H of 6407 to the black with white stripe wire (pin D) from original boost guage connector
6. completely cut off wire from pin G of 6407 because it is not used
7. tape up the 4 wire connector with other wires connected because your finished with that connector
8. run other 5 wires down behind the DLC (the 16 pin connector that you hook your scan tool to). I had to lengthen them about 6"
9. scotch-lock wire from pin D of 6407 to the red with white stripe wire (pin 16) of the DLC
10 cut both the High Speed GMLAN wires (tan with black pin 6 and tan pin 14) and leave enough room to install butt connectors. I left about 4" from the DLC
11 connect wire from pin E from 6407 to tan with black stripe wire coming from factory wiring harness you cut earlier
12 connect wire from pin F from 6407 to tan wire coming from factory wiring harness you cut earlier
13 connect wire from pin A from 6407 to tan with black stripe wire going to the back of the DLC side (pin 6) you cut earlier
14 connect wire from pin B from 6407 to tan wire going to the back of the DLC side (pin 14) you cut earlier
15 Hide all your wires and install the pillar trim by aligning the 2 clips and installing the torx screw on the top
As you can see, I had to add some extra wire to the length of the wires going to the DLC. I used some colored wires so it would be easier to determine which wire was which since all the wires from the 6407 connector is white.
For the High Speed GMLAN coming from the factory wiring harness I used blue and yellow. And High Speed GMLAN going to the DLC I used black and green. For the battery positive I just kept it white.
connector for analog boost guage
Pin Wire Circuit Function
A PK 439 Ignition Voltage
B GY 8 I/P Lamps Dimming Signal
C TN 891 Boost Gage Signal
D BK/WH 651 Ground
connector for digital boost guage UAF
Pin Wire Circuit Function
A TN/BK 2500 High Speed GMLAN Serial Data (+)
B TN 2501 High Speed GMLAN Serial Data (-)
C PK 339 Ignition Voltage
D RD/WH 1440 Battery Positive Voltage
E TN/BK 2500 High Speed GMLAN Serial Data (+)
F TN 2501 High Speed GMLAN Serial Data (-)
G -- -- Not Used
H BK/WH 651 Ground
DLC connector
Pin Wire Circuit Function
1 D-GN 5060 Low Speed GMLAN Serial Data
2-3 -- -- Not Used
4 BK 550 Ground
5 BK/WH 1051 Signal Ground
6 TN/BK 2500 High Speed GMLAN Serial Data (+)
7-13 -- -- Not Used
14 TN 2501 High Speed GMLAN Serial Data (-)
15 -- -- Not Used
16 RD/WH 40 Battery Positive Voltage
back of DLC after wiring
what do you mean by trade price? i was looking at the price for the RPD and its like 590 and like 95 for the wire connector.
In my case, I had a donor non-RPD car that donated the std boost gauge wires/plug, and I did the reverse of what was outlined here...
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Those plugs are tricky to find. I was planning on doing the same thing but couldn't find what I needed in our 1 junkyard and everything online has a minimum order of like 20+. But I haven't looked in a long time again.
I just removed the rpd of a lnf SS. I found 2 wires going to the BcM. 2 power wires. Ignition and 12v that went behind the BCM. A ground wire that went under the dash to a big eye loop. The last 2 wires I found went to the interconnect that came from the engine bay. I'm assuming a few signals from the ecm.
