2.0 LSJ Engine: Return-style fuel system for 2.0 LSJ
03-06-2008, 03:26 PM
#154
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Hey man, I already have the Earl Performance check valve in my house. I've been very busy lately. I'm hoping that tomorrow I could buy a straight end 6AN fitting (since the new check valve have two male ends) and installed it. I'll keep you guys updated.
If it doesn't work, the only thing to test are both Aeromotive and Earl check valves connected in line.
If it doesn't work, the only thing to test are both Aeromotive and Earl check valves connected in line.
03-31-2008, 09:46 PM
#156
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Okay, I am getting ready to do this on my car, but the quote above makes no sense. set it for 40-41psi where? At barametric? Also with VAC the presure @ the regulator should go down to equalize the effective pressure, correct?
03-31-2008, 10:29 PM
#158
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I do need to get clarity about that one quote though. I know nothing about pumps and regulators and stuff, but I do know injectors. As VAC increases, so does the effective fuel pressure. Therefore psi would have to be reduced at high VAC and increased at high boost to keep a stable effective fuel pressure. So why would the pressure on a regulator go UP in a VAC situation? That is what our returnless system does (effectively). Aren't we doing this mod to equalize the effective fuel pressure accross the board?
03-31-2008, 10:37 PM
#159
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im not sure what he ment by that steve but u want to set ur fpr at idle to the psi u want to tune ur afr at idle..the fpr i showed u is a 1:1 regulator which means it will go up 1 psi with 1 psi of boost so if u set it for 50psi and u go into wot and boost 17psi from the s/c the fpr will now be set at 67psi...
03-31-2008, 10:55 PM
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im not sure what he ment by that steve but u want to set ur fpr at idle to the psi u want to tune ur afr at idle..the fpr i showed u is a 1:1 regulator which means it will go up 1 psi with 1 psi of boost so if u set it for 50psi and u go into wot and boost 17psi from the s/c the fpr will now be set at 67psi...
03-31-2008, 11:04 PM
#161
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the psi is only there to allow the fuel back to the tank..so if u set it at 50 psi than until the rail pressure is 50 psi it wont allow fuel back to the tank..maybe im missing what ur concern is
03-31-2008, 11:20 PM
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His concern (and mine) is that he wants a regulator that will reference boost AND vaccuum. When you are crusing and your are in VAC - that the regulator will decrease pressure so that the pressure of the fuel coming out of the injector is always 60 PSI above manifold pressure - no matter if he is at 25 PSI or -10 PSI. This way you can completey flatline your IFR's and not have to deal with that bullshit.
03-31-2008, 11:38 PM
#163
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Ok guys you are losing me on the BS, but this is how a fuel pressure regulator works:
Set it for 45 psi, its 45 psi base pressure plus manifold pressure. If manifold pressure is negative, it removes fuel pressure, if its in boost, its adds. Simple.
Also, 1:1 is not rising rate regardless what your eBay auctions tell you. Rising rate is for FMUs.
Set it for 45 psi, its 45 psi base pressure plus manifold pressure. If manifold pressure is negative, it removes fuel pressure, if its in boost, its adds. Simple.
Also, 1:1 is not rising rate regardless what your eBay auctions tell you. Rising rate is for FMUs.
03-31-2008, 11:44 PM
#164
Ok guys you are losing me on the BS, but this is how a fuel pressure regulator works:
Set it for 45 psi, its 45 psi base pressure plus manifold pressure. If manifold pressure is negative, it removes fuel pressure, if its in boost, its adds. Simple.
Also, 1:1 is not rising rate regardless what your eBay auctions tell you. Rising rate is for FMUs.
Set it for 45 psi, its 45 psi base pressure plus manifold pressure. If manifold pressure is negative, it removes fuel pressure, if its in boost, its adds. Simple.
Also, 1:1 is not rising rate regardless what your eBay auctions tell you. Rising rate is for FMUs.
03-31-2008, 11:51 PM
#165
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Ok guys you are losing me on the BS, but this is how a fuel pressure regulator works:
Set it for 45 psi, its 45 psi base pressure plus manifold pressure. If manifold pressure is negative, it removes fuel pressure, if its in boost, its adds. Simple.
Also, 1:1 is not rising rate regardless what your eBay auctions tell you. Rising rate is for FMUs.
Set it for 45 psi, its 45 psi base pressure plus manifold pressure. If manifold pressure is negative, it removes fuel pressure, if its in boost, its adds. Simple.
Also, 1:1 is not rising rate regardless what your eBay auctions tell you. Rising rate is for FMUs.
04-01-2008, 12:17 AM
#166
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His concern (and mine) is that he wants a regulator that will reference boost AND vaccuum. When you are crusing and your are in VAC - that the regulator will decrease pressure so that the pressure of the fuel coming out of the injector is always 60 PSI above manifold pressure - no matter if he is at 25 PSI or -10 PSI. This way you can completey flatline your IFR's and not have to deal with that bullshit.
Ok guys you are losing me on the BS, but this is how a fuel pressure regulator works:
Set it for 45 psi, its 45 psi base pressure plus manifold pressure. If manifold pressure is negative, it removes fuel pressure, if its in boost, its adds. Simple.
Also, 1:1 is not rising rate regardless what your eBay auctions tell you. Rising rate is for FMUs.
Set it for 45 psi, its 45 psi base pressure plus manifold pressure. If manifold pressure is negative, it removes fuel pressure, if its in boost, its adds. Simple.
Also, 1:1 is not rising rate regardless what your eBay auctions tell you. Rising rate is for FMUs.
Last edited by SJSchafer; 04-01-2008 at 12:18 AM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
04-01-2008, 12:40 AM
#167
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Ok guys you are losing me on the BS, but this is how a fuel pressure regulator works:
Set it for 45 psi, its 45 psi base pressure plus manifold pressure. If manifold pressure is negative, it removes fuel pressure, if its in boost, its adds. Simple.
Also, 1:1 is not rising rate regardless what your eBay auctions tell you. Rising rate is for FMUs.
Set it for 45 psi, its 45 psi base pressure plus manifold pressure. If manifold pressure is negative, it removes fuel pressure, if its in boost, its adds. Simple.
Also, 1:1 is not rising rate regardless what your eBay auctions tell you. Rising rate is for FMUs.
04-01-2008, 12:51 AM
#168
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lol. For me, the vacuum part is the important part. It is going to allow aflatlined IFR without having to do math and use the modifier. A fliatlined offset table (kPa wise, it still varies by volts) and allow a butter smooth idle with 60s at 750 rpm with minimal, if any adder adjustment.
It is going to allow aflatlined IFR without having to do math and use the modifier. A fliatlined offset table (kPa wise, it still varies by volts) and allow a butter smooth idle with 60s at 750 rpm with minimal, if any adder adjustment.
04-01-2008, 12:56 AM
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BINGO!!
Thank you Witt. I wanted to make sure that THIS regulator works that way. Everyoine was saying it's "boost referenced". I even asked an "Aeromitive authorized" dealer off ebay. His answer was, "Hello, Vacuum will not reduce the pressure but boost will increase the pressure. Thanks, George" Which would mean that if I set bas pressure to 50psi, I would get 50 psi to the rail untill 100kPa where I would start to increase. Then that quote that if base pressure is at 40 psi I would get 50 psi at vacuum had me all screwed up. My concern with that info should be pretty self evident.
Thank you Witt. I wanted to make sure that THIS regulator works that way. Everyoine was saying it's "boost referenced". I even asked an "Aeromitive authorized" dealer off ebay. His answer was, "Hello, Vacuum will not reduce the pressure but boost will increase the pressure. Thanks, George" Which would mean that if I set bas pressure to 50psi, I would get 50 psi to the rail untill 100kPa where I would start to increase. Then that quote that if base pressure is at 40 psi I would get 50 psi at vacuum had me all screwed up. My concern with that info should be pretty self evident.
lol. For me, the vacuum part is the important part. It is going to allow aflatlined IFR without having to do math and use the modifier. A fliatlined offset table (kPa wise, it still varies by volts) and allow a butter smooth idle with 60s at 750 rpm with minimal, if any adder adjustment.
It is going to allow aflatlined IFR without having to do math and use the modifier. A fliatlined offset table (kPa wise, it still varies by volts) and allow a butter smooth idle with 60s at 750 rpm with minimal, if any adder adjustment.BTW, if you want a butter smooth idle with large injectors, try an injector that isn't pintle style.
Last edited by Witt; 04-01-2008 at 12:56 AM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
04-01-2008, 12:58 AM
#170
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Do you recommend a new pump right away, or do you think the factory pump will be okay untill later when I go TVS? I know I would have to pull the dead head regulator, but I don't know if they are seperable.
Pintle bounce FTMFL!
Last edited by SJSchafer; 04-01-2008 at 12:59 AM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
04-01-2008, 01:02 AM
#172
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Sweet. Thanks Witt. Just wanted to make sure before I order the regulator.
Do you recommend a new pump right away, or do you think the factory pump will be okay untill later when I go TVS? I know I would have to pull the dead head regulator, but I don't know if they are seperable.
Do you recommend a new pump right away, or do you think the factory pump will be okay untill later when I go TVS? I know I would have to pull the dead head regulator, but I don't know if they are seperable.
The regulator is on the end of the stock return line. I posted a pic for Paul not too long ago in one of his threads. Its the only stainless steel component in the fuel canister so you can't miss it.
Last edited by Witt; 04-01-2008 at 01:03 AM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
04-01-2008, 09:29 AM
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I honestly couldn't tell you what the factory pump can flow as I haven't tested it. I can say this though, Paul from New York (411whp guy) fit a Walbro 255lph GSS342 just by using a rotary tool to the inside of the fuel canister and it fit great. That specific model does not have an internal check valve however so pre-start priming is necessary.
The regulator is on the end of the stock return line. I posted a pic for Paul not too long ago in one of his threads. Its the only stainless steel component in the fuel canister so you can't miss it.
No, but Racetronix sells disc style for 75 bucks a piece with better static flow rates than 60s and better smaller short pulse flow rates as well. Check these out when you get bored http://www.racetronix.com/01D129xFM.html
The regulator is on the end of the stock return line. I posted a pic for Paul not too long ago in one of his threads. Its the only stainless steel component in the fuel canister so you can't miss it.
No, but Racetronix sells disc style for 75 bucks a piece with better static flow rates than 60s and better smaller short pulse flow rates as well. Check these out when you get bored http://www.racetronix.com/01D129xFM.html
Last edited by SJSchafer; 04-01-2008 at 09:29 AM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost