All Engines: Spark Plug Change How-To
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From: Dearborn Hts, MI
Went to a small pulley size, have more air flowing into your engine, time to go colder on your plugs. Most people are going with NGK BKR7E gapped between .30-.45
Head out and buy your plugs. At NGK's site you can get the BKR7E from $2.99-7.99. Might as well pick up a spark plug gap measure while your out. You can get one from Murrys for around $1.05.
T27 Bit
Bit Driver
10mm Socket
3" extention
6" extention
5/8 Spark Plug Socket
Rachet

1. Gap your plugs. I have mine gapped at .40, but different people have different preferences. Figure out what works best for you.

From NGK's website
2. Using the T27 bit remove the cover over your spark plugs. There are four screws. Keep these in a safe place.


3. Using the 10mm socket, remove the four bolts to get to your plugs.

4. Pull up to get to the plugs.


5. Using the 5/8 Spark Plug socket and the 6"extention, remove the spark plug.


6. Set your new plug into the socket and insert it.

7. Replace the boot and move onto the next plug.

8. Replace the cover using the four screws.

Thats all there is to it. Takes all of 15 minutes once you know what your doing.
You can head to NGK's site and do a search for the BKR7E, or go to your local Autoparts store and get them.
This How to has been brought to you by NGalaxyTimmyo of the Southeast Ecotec Enthusiasts!
Head out and buy your plugs. At NGK's site you can get the BKR7E from $2.99-7.99. Might as well pick up a spark plug gap measure while your out. You can get one from Murrys for around $1.05.
T27 Bit
Bit Driver
10mm Socket
3" extention
6" extention
5/8 Spark Plug Socket
Rachet

1. Gap your plugs. I have mine gapped at .40, but different people have different preferences. Figure out what works best for you.

From NGK's website
Proper Gapping
In most cases the factory set gap should conform to your vehicle specifications. However if it is necessary to widen the gap, do so with a tool that only pulls back on the ground electrode without touching the center electrode or the porcelain. To close the gap on a plug, gently tap the plug, electrode first on a hard surface.
In most cases the factory set gap should conform to your vehicle specifications. However if it is necessary to widen the gap, do so with a tool that only pulls back on the ground electrode without touching the center electrode or the porcelain. To close the gap on a plug, gently tap the plug, electrode first on a hard surface.


3. Using the 10mm socket, remove the four bolts to get to your plugs.

4. Pull up to get to the plugs.


5. Using the 5/8 Spark Plug socket and the 6"extention, remove the spark plug.


6. Set your new plug into the socket and insert it.

7. Replace the boot and move onto the next plug.

8. Replace the cover using the four screws.

Thats all there is to it. Takes all of 15 minutes once you know what your doing.
You can head to NGK's site and do a search for the BKR7E, or go to your local Autoparts store and get them.
This How to has been brought to you by NGalaxyTimmyo of the Southeast Ecotec Enthusiasts!
Last edited by NGalaxyTimmyo; Jun 13, 2006 at 02:50 AM.
It's really that complicated to get to your sparkplugs??? Teh Ghey... On our farm truck, A 1994 GMC Sierra Ext. Cab 305, All ya do is take off the Wires, And put a socket and turn. is it really necessary for all that extra funny ****?
It's actually slightly different on the 2.2L. All of the boots come off when you remove the cover. The cover contains the coils and the ICM (Ignition Control Module). I also prefer to use the wire style gap tool, just my preference. Also if you don't know how to properly gap a plug, please be sure to get instructions.
Originally Posted by DJNateGnau
It's really that complicated to get to your sparkplugs??? Teh Ghey... On our farm truck, A 1994 GMC Sierra Ext. Cab 305, All ya do is take off the Wires, And put a socket and turn. is it really necessary for all that extra funny ****?
Hey DJNate, the reason for all the "extra funny crap" is because this design is coil on plug, where each plug gets a better power supply and therefore more spark power for ignition.
And yes I do know what it was like changing them on a V6 Grand Am, I knew several people that had me change them. You actually have to tilt the engine forward to get at them easier. Very craptastic design in my eyes, and dont even get me started on changing the belt on the 4 cyl. Grand Am. They routed the belt around a motor mount. I sometimes wonder what GM thinks when it goes into production of their cars.
Sorry for my little rant.
And yes I do know what it was like changing them on a V6 Grand Am, I knew several people that had me change them. You actually have to tilt the engine forward to get at them easier. Very craptastic design in my eyes, and dont even get me started on changing the belt on the 4 cyl. Grand Am. They routed the belt around a motor mount. I sometimes wonder what GM thinks when it goes into production of their cars.
Sorry for my little rant.
Quick question... I just got stage 2 put in and had the dealership put in the new plugs. Does anyone think they would gap those for me to .040... the recommended stock gap? My car seems so sputter at 6500 rpm in 2nd gear, it actually seems to be where the old rev limiter was that it starts to sputter sort of like it is being held back or limited. I haven't tested any of the other gears yet. HELP PLEASE!
Awesome.. Ive been trying to figure out what size Bit was needed to get those Bolts out of the Cover...
Thanks... now if I can only find a place around me that has the plugs
If youre S2 and youre hitting the Rev Limiter at 6500 they didnt do the flash...
did you get the paperwork back from the dealer with the Code on it.. if not youre gonna have to fight like a **** to get them to get one.. or you could just say F it and get a custom tune..
Thanks... now if I can only find a place around me that has the plugs
Quick question... I just got stage 2 put in and had the dealership put in the new plugs. Does anyone think they would gap those for me to .040... the recommended stock gap? My car seems so sputter at 6500 rpm in 2nd gear, it actually seems to be where the old rev limiter was that it starts to sputter sort of like it is being held back or limited. I haven't tested any of the other gears yet. HELP PLEASE!
did you get the paperwork back from the dealer with the Code on it.. if not youre gonna have to fight like a **** to get them to get one.. or you could just say F it and get a custom tune..
Last edited by Brian's07SS; Jun 20, 2008 at 05:43 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost





