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Nice write up. just what i need to see

 

complicated???

 

Just as an FYI - the torx screws that go on the cover only need to be snug... if you overtighten them you will never get them back out. About 5 pounds is good.

When doing spark plugs you *should* do it with a torque wrench. Torque for the plugs should be between 18 - 21 lbs/ft for the cobalt plugs. The old "let it contact then turn this far" way isn't very good and really doesn't work very well with crush gasket spark plugs.

 

can some 1 help me i need to know how much i should tighten... is there any specs or just untill there hand tight... i never changed plugs on a car b4 ususaly sell it before i get to the point i need to change them.. thanks alot( pm me please.)

 

See below (which is from the post above you).

 

Sticky

 

do you have to remove the sparkplugs to remove the valve cover?

 

Yes.

 

I have a stage two and put ac delco plugs back in at 50,000 miles. The shop I bought them from told me I shouldn't have to gap them, so I didn't. These plugs weren't like regular spark plugs. Does anybody know if I should have gapped them? The car seems to run fine however I have noticed some funny ides when I come to a stop every now and again.

 

So y exacly do u go with colder plugs when u boost more?

Not the spark plugs but the coils yes

 

More boost is hotter generally speaking.

To keep it from knocking.

 

Not to turn this into more a Q & A. I'm also S2 and replaced my plugs with OEM soon after and gapped correctly. Every now and again when accelerating a slight shudder is felt, would this be from the OEM plugs?

 

For the LSJ, if all you are is stage 2, stock plugs and gap should be fine. If GM thought new plugs were needed, they surely would have included them as part of the kit.

 

Stock gap is .040"

On stage 2 you do not need to run colder plugs, the stock heat range is fine.

The shuddering you feel, is it during part throttle acceleration (i.e. half throttle)? If so, then that is the GM stage 2 tune. All stock tune cars have that "shudder".

Running colder plugs reduces the tempuratures inside the combustion chamber. Combustion chambers need to run around 500F to 800F to properly burn fuel. The idea is to have your combustion chamber temps within that range at all times. When you increase the amount of air and fuel being forced into the combustion chamber you also increase the tempuratures due to the heat of the compressed air plus the extra heat created by the combustion. The trick is to keep the tempuratures at cruising AND at WOT both within the 500F to 800F range (unless your vehicle is strickly a race car, in which case you would only be concerned with WOT tempuratures). If the combustion chamber is not hot enough the fuel will not burn efficiently and you will lose HP as well as cause alot of carbon buildup. If the combustion chamber tempuratures are too high then you will get pre-ignition and/or detonation and can cause damage to the engine.

 

i used a tx30 on my car. just to throw that out there maybe some have different screws either way this how to made it way easier on me thanks man.

 

What do you guys recommend in terms of a good spark plug for an 06 SS S/C?
Do they really differ from each other that much?

 

anyone?

 

Alot is personal preference. No, all spark plugs are not the same. What mods do you have done to your car, or is it stock? For a stock SS/SC just stay with the stock plug or a stock heat range iridium.

PFR6T-10G - Stock double platinum plug
BKR6EIX-11 - Stock heat range Iridium with .044 gap (need to gap to .040)
BKR6EIX - Stock heat range Iridium with .032 gap (need to gap to .040)

 

I am fully stock.
I went to order the PFR6T-10G - Stock double platinum plug from amazon, they're charging over $10 a piece. Does that make sense and is it worth it over the BKR7E NGK plugs that run about $3.30/ea
if it will give better performance, then it might be worth it. otherwise what benefit will it give me?
Thanks for your help!

~J-ME

 

The BKR7E are one step colder plugs. They are not good for a stock car. Also, you have to change the copper plugs every 10K miles, the double platinums should be good for 50K or more. I would personally go with the BKR6EIX Iridium plugs. They are about $8 a plug, the iridium tip is cooler than the platinum tips, and still good to 50K or more miles.

 

a friend told me colder plugs are always better to use!
is it true that colder plugs can only help?
if not, what is the disadvantage of using a colder plug in a stock car?

rnjmur, Thanks for helping me out

 

This is from my post earlier in the thread:

Running colder plugs reduces the tempuratures inside the combustion chamber. Combustion chambers need to run around 500F to 800F to properly burn fuel. The idea is to have your combustion chamber temps within that range at all times. When you increase the amount of air and fuel being forced into the combustion chamber you also increase the tempuratures due to the heat of the compressed air plus the extra heat created by the combustion. The trick is to keep the tempuratures at cruising AND at WOT both within the 500F to 800F range (unless your vehicle is strickly a race car, in which case you would only be concerned with WOT tempuratures). If the combustion chamber is not hot enough the fuel will not burn efficiently and you will lose HP as well as cause alot of carbon buildup. If the combustion chamber tempuratures are too high then you will get pre-ignition and/or detonation and can cause damage to the engine.


Basically you can damage an engine just as much by running a plug that is too cold as running a plug that is too hot. Running a colder plug will not give you any advantage, or make you gain HP. If you put a colder plug in when it isn't needed you can actually LOSE horsepower and gas mileage because the fuel can no longer burn efficiently.

 

yet again, thanks rnjmur!

ya that all makes logical sense.

i still havent located a single dealer that carries NGK plugs for a stock cobalt....everyone says they need to custom order them

 

I usually order my plugs from http://www.ngk.com.