JBP Cams Revisited: New Grind for `09!
Our stock lifters are more than good enough for use under heavy abuse, racing, high rpm etc. Stock lifters are used in the GM Racing drag and drift cars until they get to cam profiles that have too high of lift and they swap out for solid.
You come up and say "Hey guys, we have LSJ cams that are not regrinds and can just be installed with no lifter issue at all." We say, "Holy crap, that's freaking awesome! Finally!"
Then you come out with a package that includes solid lifters and it throws one hell of a red flag. You guys don't even come close to having a good reputation so if you want people to believe you, the burden of proof that your product works, and won't break anyone's motor, is on you. That's also why no one wants to get a "free" set of your cams.
So this is a direct bolt in no mods to make them work. so i can just take mine out and put these in.it Before i send any money in i want to see dyno sheets.Id also want to see a better profile,because i think these are to small.The stock lsj head flows 261.1 cfm on the intake at 500 lift and 149.1 on the exhust at 500 lift.And on a fully ported head the intake flows 303.3 cfm at 540 lift and 208.5 on the exhust at at 540 lift why not make a cam that works best like a stock head a good cam would be 500 lift,and 540 lift for people wanting or got a ported head if i was going to buy a cam id want one thats going to work with what or heads flow Here is a good cam spec ill throw at you guys.
stock head
268 dur adv and 500 lift
ported head 272 dur adv and 550 lift
These would be perfect cams for us people wanting more like a street /strip cam here are some specs for them also
280 dur adv and 570 lift
i dont want to buy a cam that i wont even here a diffrence over the stock cam and with just more lift that would only be half of the performance. duration aint going to hurt us it will help us a lot . so why no make it happen?
If thats the only cam you are going to offer,then how about a diffrent ratio rocker to give it more lift,like the small block chevy going from a 1.5 to a 1.6 ratio something like that would work than again the duration would still be to small.
stock head
268 dur adv and 500 lift
ported head 272 dur adv and 550 lift
These would be perfect cams for us people wanting more like a street /strip cam here are some specs for them also
280 dur adv and 570 lift
i dont want to buy a cam that i wont even here a diffrence over the stock cam and with just more lift that would only be half of the performance. duration aint going to hurt us it will help us a lot . so why no make it happen?
If thats the only cam you are going to offer,then how about a diffrent ratio rocker to give it more lift,like the small block chevy going from a 1.5 to a 1.6 ratio something like that would work than again the duration would still be to small.
stage 1 268 adv dur and 500 lift
stage 2 272adv dur and 550 lift for us with ported heads
stage 3 280 adv dur and 570 lift for street strip cars
Are you all going to build cams for everybody or just one size fits all.you all need to do it in 3 stages we need to buy spring any way might aswell get the lift we need.
stage 1 268 adv dur and 500 lift
stage 2 272adv dur and 550 lift for us with ported heads
stage 3 280 adv dur and 570 lift for street strip cars
stage 1 268 adv dur and 500 lift
stage 2 272adv dur and 550 lift for us with ported heads
stage 3 280 adv dur and 570 lift for street strip cars
I shouldn't need Valves (stockers are good past 400whp) or Solid Lifter (unless you are getting regrinds), but I would do valve springs for sure.
And the "Sound" you are talking about, that choppy rumble... it all depends on the LSA of the cam, and IIRC a few other little factors.
Here's a Cam Guide for LS1's... it talks about what each Spec of the cam does.
http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/genera...cam-guide.html
And the "Sound" you are talking about, that choppy rumble... it all depends on the LSA of the cam, and IIRC a few other little factors.
Here's a Cam Guide for LS1's... it talks about what each Spec of the cam does.
http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/genera...cam-guide.html
C. Lobe Separation Angle (LSA)
- LSA is defined as spread in camshaft degrees between the intake centerline and the exhaust centerline.
- Overlap is the number of crankshaft degrees that both the intake and exhaust valves are open as the cylinder transitions through the end of the exhaust stroke and into the intake stroke
- LSA is ground into the cam and cannot be changed without grinding a new cam
- Bigger duration cams will have more overlap then a smaller duration cam even if both are on the same LSA.
- The key to making overlap work is maximizing the power in the rpm band where you want it.
- Long overlap periods work best for high-rpm power. For the street, a long overlap period combined with long-duration profiles combine to kill low-speed torque
- Reducing overlap on a long-duration cam will often increase midrange torque at the expense of peak power, but if the average torque improves, thats probably a change worth making.
- Many enthusiasts purchase a camshaft strictly on the basis of how it sounds. A cam with generous overlap creates that distinctive choppy idle that just sounds cool.
- While doing my research on the T1 I cam across this dyno in which if I recall Tony (Nineball) stated that the blue graph was a T1 (112 lsa) and the other 2 where a B1 (114) lsa. 112 vs. 114
- What really affects where the cam makes the most power is the intake timing events. What affects drivability most is the exhaust-closing event.
- LSA is defined as spread in camshaft degrees between the intake centerline and the exhaust centerline.
- Overlap is the number of crankshaft degrees that both the intake and exhaust valves are open as the cylinder transitions through the end of the exhaust stroke and into the intake stroke
- LSA is ground into the cam and cannot be changed without grinding a new cam
- Bigger duration cams will have more overlap then a smaller duration cam even if both are on the same LSA.
- The key to making overlap work is maximizing the power in the rpm band where you want it.
- Long overlap periods work best for high-rpm power. For the street, a long overlap period combined with long-duration profiles combine to kill low-speed torque
- Reducing overlap on a long-duration cam will often increase midrange torque at the expense of peak power, but if the average torque improves, thats probably a change worth making.
- Many enthusiasts purchase a camshaft strictly on the basis of how it sounds. A cam with generous overlap creates that distinctive choppy idle that just sounds cool.
- While doing my research on the T1 I cam across this dyno in which if I recall Tony (Nineball) stated that the blue graph was a T1 (112 lsa) and the other 2 where a B1 (114) lsa. 112 vs. 114
- What really affects where the cam makes the most power is the intake timing events. What affects drivability most is the exhaust-closing event.
There's s a crap load of responses and I'll attack them all systematically:
YES, you put them in and no customization. The intake cam will have no provision for the hex drive, while the exhaust cam will.
There's so much to building a profile, its not funny. First, the masters to be made are expensive. We're not Comp or Crane cams and have only a set budget in order to make grinds. So a set of three "staged" grinds, would cost close to $1250 and then the production run to cut costs would cost close to over $10,000 for three stages of camshafts. It's not cheap. Which is why there has to be a trade off. If you want a custom grind, with 500+ lift, then we'll do that as a one off. We're trying to provide a grind that will be acceptable to the majority of the community who run on vastly stock parts. I'm sure there's not more than 50ppl on this forum with a ported head, so you have to evaluate everything from a standpoint as a business and take the influx of the oddball grinds as a separate entity. Simply put, we can't afford to do so.
This is possible. We make our own rocker arms, and have dabbled in the idea of a different ratio, 1.8:1 or even larger. Remember, the more lift you put into the valvetrain, you get into a valve to piston clearance issues, which means, fly-cutting the piston to accommodate. Something people don't want to do. So I rather ensure that more lift be added through a rocker arm ratio, thereby making the choice for more lift a choice for easier for those who want to avoid the custom grind route.
What do you mean when you say, "what do you need?"... As in tools, additional parts or supporting mods, tuning??... please elaborate.
Charge is based on the number of hours. We put the hours for cam install at 4.0hrs. So at that point you can estimate the cost by a shop's hourly shop rate.
Any hydraulic valvetrain will experience bleed off at high sustained rpms, there's a consistency experienced with a solid valvetrain and its not as high-maintenance as people may think. Regardless, a solid lifter is being offered with this package, Even though it is not necessary.
Again, this is a speculative statement on your part. The fact that we didn't even install the camshafts on a engine yet invalidates the fact that we have cams that can be installed with no lifter issue at all. Can you take the lifters out of the equation right now and not get hung up on that? If you don't want solid lifters with the camshafts then don't put them in the engine at the time of the camshaft installation. The lifters are completely irrelevant, the camshaft profile is the issue.
YES, you put them in and no customization. The intake cam will have no provision for the hex drive, while the exhaust cam will.
Originally Posted by scott allen
ported head 272 dur adv and 550 lift
Originally Posted by scott allen
If thats the only cam you are going to offer,then how about a diffrent ratio rocker to give it more lift,like the small block chevy going from a 1.5 to a 1.6 ratio something like that would work than again the duration would still be to small.
i really just want to know wat do i need if i buy the cams? lifters? valves? wat straight foward answer no bullshit. and i really want to do the group buy but i have to wait til may or june when i can void my warranty. also how much to ppl charge for install on these things
Charge is based on the number of hours. We put the hours for cam install at 4.0hrs. So at that point you can estimate the cost by a shop's hourly shop rate.
Our stock lifters are more than good enough for use under heavy abuse, racing, high rpm etc. Stock lifters are used in the GM Racing drag and drift cars until they get to cam profiles that have too high of lift and they swap out for solid.
You come up and say "Hey guys, we have LSJ cams that are not regrinds and can just be installed with no lifter issue at all." We say, "Holy crap, that's freaking awesome! Finally!"
Then you come out with a package that includes solid lifters and it throws one hell of a red flag. You guys don't even come close to having a good reputation so if you want people to believe you, the burden of proof that your product works, and won't break anyone's motor, is on you. That's also why no one wants to get a "free" set of your cams.
Then you come out with a package that includes solid lifters and it throws one hell of a red flag. You guys don't even come close to having a good reputation so if you want people to believe you, the burden of proof that your product works, and won't break anyone's motor, is on you. That's also why no one wants to get a "free" set of your cams.
So this is a direct bolt in no mods to make them work. so i can just take mine out and put these in.it Before i send any money in i want to see dyno sheets.Id also want to see a better profile,because i think these are to small.The stock lsj head flows 261.1 cfm on the intake at 500 lift and 149.1 on the exhust at 500 lift.And on a fully ported head the intake flows 303.3 cfm at 540 lift and 208.5 on the exhust at at 540 lift why not make a cam that works best like a stock head a good cam would be 500 lift,and 540 lift for people wanting or got a ported head if i was going to buy a cam id want one thats going to work with what or heads flow Here is a good cam spec ill throw at you guys.
stock head
268 dur adv and 500 lift
ported head 272 dur adv and 550 lift
These would be perfect cams for us people wanting more like a street /strip cam here are some specs for them also
280 dur adv and 570 lift
i dont want to buy a cam that i wont even here a diffrence over the stock cam and with just more lift that would only be half of the performance. duration aint going to hurt us it will help us a lot . so why no make it happen?
If thats the only cam you are going to offer,then how about a diffrent ratio rocker to give it more lift,like the small block chevy going from a 1.5 to a 1.6 ratio something like that would work than again the duration would still be to small.
stock head
268 dur adv and 500 lift
ported head 272 dur adv and 550 lift
These would be perfect cams for us people wanting more like a street /strip cam here are some specs for them also
280 dur adv and 570 lift
i dont want to buy a cam that i wont even here a diffrence over the stock cam and with just more lift that would only be half of the performance. duration aint going to hurt us it will help us a lot . so why no make it happen?
If thats the only cam you are going to offer,then how about a diffrent ratio rocker to give it more lift,like the small block chevy going from a 1.5 to a 1.6 ratio something like that would work than again the duration would still be to small.
the 1400hp draq ecotecs don't even run that much lift. this is not a small block chevy. stock cams are .395 lift. look at those flow numbers, not .500
and to jbp. you might want to inform the end user of what you are supposed to do the head to run solid lifters.
this is not a drop and and go have fun situation people are going to be dealing with here. there is tuning involved. a lot of it. if you have never tuned an lsj, if you never delt with one on cams, be prepared to spend a lot of time on these.
if the STOCK base circle was kept. there would not be a need for solid lifters. so this right here makes me wonder
Last edited by Area47; Mar 8, 2009 at 03:21 AM.
Well apparently JBP just wants us to "take the lifters out of the equation right now and not get hung up on that". But one can only wonder why they would even bring them up if they wanted to offer a truly bolt-on camp setup.
i will NOT machine the head to accept these
i will NOT run lash checks every 3 months on my daily driver.
so would it really be worth it if im just gonna do 60s, 2.8, meth or 35shot, and tune?
and JBP i was asking like wat parts are need to run ur cams? not tools but other parts need so the cams run good like the lifters and valve springs
and JBP i was asking like wat parts are need to run ur cams? not tools but other parts need so the cams run good like the lifters and valve springs




