Ok, wasn't fuel lines. It's doing it again. WEEEEEEE

Can anyone beat my record?! My car has been in a dealership in;
Yucca Valley, Ca
Palm Springs, Ca
Lake Havasu, Az
Las Vegas, Nv
And now, Cincinnati, Oh

I'm really using up that GMPP extended warranty. HAHA!

 

getting your moneys worth

 

I've paid for some of them because my insane "modifications" caused the issue. Like the BARO failing, was somehow blamed on my intake. Ya, my intake ruined the BARO. I tried arguing that one, but I wasn't going to risk anything because I was right near the base and if **** went down, it would not go in my favor. Not a bad deal though, less than a month later, that dealership failed and went under. So **** them.

 

i may be getting black painted headlights. trading him a 5gph nozzle and $20. shibby.

 

Night Skiing out here is AWESOME too bad i have to go home in the morning

 

i kinda like the gen 4's

 

Ding Ding Ding

Round 5 in the dealership fight begins tomorrow. WOOT

 

sounds fun

 

Goddamnit. Why did I even take it to them. They're ******* retarded. I told them the fuel pump was shot, so all they did was scan it, then pull the maf out and say the maf is dead. They won't even look at the fuel pump until I bring in a new maf, or they charge me $280 for a new one.

Oh, and then tried to sell me on a $160 injector service.

 

tell them the maf was working BEFORE they pulled it out. and to put it back in and do as they're told. thats what they're paid for. someone brings a car in with a problem. they look at it.

 

I'm taking in a stock intake and a brand new maf. I'm going to tell them to try the maf before they even try to charge me to put the stock intake on. I can do that myself. When the car still doesn't run, then I'm going to be pissed.

I'm torn on taking the car out of the dealer so I can put my stock intake back on, then having it not run, or have to pay them to put it on, and still not run.

The service writer who I'm talking to doesn't seem to understand the concept that this car has had the maf replaced multiple times when there is a maf code set, only to have it not run 30 miles down the road again.

 

so, lets say i'm gonna get a wet shot of nitrous goin with a remote bottle opener. aaaaand, lets say for the sake of running in no/e, that i've got it wired up to the cc switch at the top of the clutch pedal. so, foot off the clutch, switch is on and nitrous is spraying. push the clutch in, switch is off and nitrous isn't spraying. is there a way to change to tune only when the ecu reads 100% from the tps to adjust for the nitrous??

its gonna work like this. pull up to the staging lights. bottle still closed. light the prestage bulb, hit the button and open bottle while clutch is all the way in and purge the system getting nitrous up to the solenoid. ease forward and light stage bulb and brake keeping the clutch in foot. first of the three yellow .500 light comes on. wide open on the two step. green light, off the clutch, switch is depressed, nitrous sprays. take off, shift...push the clutch in for a NLS, nitrous stops spraying. put it in second and let the clutch out, nitrous sprays again, same for 3rd gear.... end of the run going through the traps stay in the gas past the 1320 mark and hit the botton to close the bottle while letting off the gas. nitrous is now off and tune is back to normal cause i'm not at WOT.

sound good? now i just need to figure out a way to tune it for nitrous only at WOT

 

I think you should add another switch for good measure, maybe a window switch also

 

i won't need an rpm controller if i'm only gonna be activating it from the clutch switch.... the controller will allow me to adjust at what rpm i want it to come on. i don't want that. i want: clutch in, nitrous off. clutch out, nitrous on.

i could always run a switch inline with the cc switch. so it would be like a switched switch haha. but that way when the car is off or i'm in gear and just normal driving, not at the track and wide open, i can have the cc switch turned off. that way the solenoid isn't open EVERY time the clutch is engaged, just when i'm at the track.

 

I'm sure you would want the nitrous shut off a few 100 rpm before you shift rather right at that instant.

 

yeah i can understand that. with a nls and the cut cylinders, unburnt fuel won't cause any damage but uncombusted nitrous will haha

 

hey exsoccer how would i tell if its the gmpp exhaust manifold too? is there anything visible on the firewall side. i get out of class soon and ill look. and i dont wanna gum up that list thread so i asked here

 

no i have no idea

 

why would you want to spray right off the line?

 

cause i'll be running a 26/10 slick.

 

still, thats a hell of a lot to put on the axles and tranny, I was always told never to spray right off the line.

 

axles trans and clutch will be taken care of sweetcheeks. don't worry.

 

and what is it your doing to the trans to insure it doesnt break on you?

 

well. it envolves a twin disk clutch. but thats all i can say till the car is complete. yay for sponsors.

 

good deal then mayne. hurry it up already.