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As of today, Nov 1st 2022, I am the (almost proud) owner of a new to me 2009 4dr Cobalt SS. Switchblade Metallic, stock wheels, not lowered, 127k miles, interior/exterior are each 7/10. I got flown up to the DFW area by a friend of mine, and drove the car home to Kyle TX, just south of Austin. Averages on the trip home: 70mph, 29.7mpg, 190*F coolant. I checked the oil and coolant before and after my 300 mile trip home and both were good color/quantity.
The lemony parts:
- Car shows evidence of being in some kind of front end accident. The Carfax was clean, but the more I look the more I see the signs (broken clips, missing inner fender well, uneven gaps, one new headlight)
- Steering wheel is about 5* to the right when going straight, and car pulls very lightly to the right
- Suspension feels harsh, and a little worn out.
- Needs two front tires
- Needs two TPMS sensors
- Factory radio is locked (made the 4 hour drive with just me and my thoughts)
- Needs a rear muffler (it’s just missing and I want this thing sneaky quite), anybody got one???
- Puffs some light blue-ish white-ish smoke after boost (if I ease out of throttle it won’t do that, only if I chop it from 10-15psi)
- REALLY SAD: it won’t hold full boost. According to the SS Sedan registry it has a few mods and a trifecta tune @ 23psi. The few times I got on it, in 3rd or 4th gear it would cut throttle past about 4500rpm and not make any more boost. It threw a few codes related to all of this: P2178 Fuel trim rich at cruise/Accel, P0013 exhaust cam actuator solenoid, and one other code for “engine underboost” for which I didn’t get the P number. After the first “boost cut” it would not allow for any more positive manifold pressure until the car was turned off and a code for learning the minimum throttle position was cleared.
Admittedly I asked myself: why did I buy this? For the price ($8k) I feel like it should’ve been pretty buttoned up. But I had made the trip up there and had previously spent a day and a half otherwise looking at 5 other cars and not buying anything. In the end, it’s too late to take it back hahaha so I’m committed. I’m excited to get it through stage 0 and then maybe stage 1 “plus” since I just want this to be a fun and reliable DD.
I’ll get some pics of the car and add them here later. My previous car experience: 1983 Volvo 242 Turbo, 2001 Miata, some ‘80s Buick T Types, 2000 Toyota Land Cruiser, 1991 Honda accord 5spd, and a 2013 Subaru Outback (current main family vehicle).
Sounds like the car had previous mods removed before you bought it. The uneven gaps are a cobalt thing. The broken clips again could have been from the PO removing lower springs/coils.
Def do a boost leak test before hammering on it anymore.
Make sure you take some pics of the engine bay to post up here.
Sounds like the car had previous mods removed before you bought it. The uneven gaps are a cobalt thing. The broken clips again could have been from the PO removing lower springs/coils.
Def do a boost leak test before hammering on it anymore.
Make sure you take some pics of the engine bay to post up here.
I do like your explanation better than mine haha. I will get some pictures posted before the end of today.
does anyone have any recommendations for boost/vacuum testers that will fit onto the stock turbo? I’m also going to order a compression tester because how can I be a gear head if I don’t have one of those?
I made my boost leak testers. You can either use PVC pipe and a cap like my 1st version. Or if you can weld, just cap off a 2in pipe and tap the end for a NPT to barb fitting hook up your regulator and you're good to go.
I made my boost leak testers. You can either use PVC pipe and a cap like my 1st version. Or if you can weld, just cap off a 2in pipe and tap the end for a NPT to barb fitting hook up your regulator and you're good to go.
Pictures below. Better too big than too small right? Can someone help me identify:
-Intercooler, this looks like the stock piece
-MAP sensor(s), are the stock? Or GMS1?
-What is the plate on the bottom of the intercooler?
-Is there a way to tell if the PCM is factory or tuned from the outside? Engine bay birds eye Can someone confirm to me that I am looking at the factory MAP sensor and NOT the GM stage one option? Just noticed this lovely JB Weld repair to the (I believe) PCV system. Turbo looks relatively clean. This is a stock intercooler, correct? This is the driver-side intercooler end tank and a little bit of the pipe coupling. That coupling is pretty oily and is dripping some. What is that plate this is zip-tied on the bottom (it is bolted on the other end) Overall the car looks nice (not the greatest photo but my kid was asleep and his bedroom is right behind that rear wall and this thing is pretty loud. Also I can't push the car back in if I had rolled it out)
The intercooler is the stock unit, but not being held up by the stock brackets, it is hanging very low. I might have a spare set in storage.
At least the map sensor in the intake manifold is the stock 2.5bar sensor.
No way to tell if the ECU is tuned from the outside, you need software to determine if it is. Trifecta will have the ECU locked down, vs most HPTuner tunes it will be available.
Also things to note, you have a forge bypass valve and it will need some semi regular maintenance to keep it functioning well. You also should look at replacing the elbow from the intake box to the turbo, the JB Weld on the PCV nipple is not a good thing. A vacuum leak at that point can cause all kinds of trouble since it is post MAF sensor.
The final note is the car really needs a boost leak test, given the look of the intercooler I'd be surprised if it isn't leaking.
The intercooler is the stock unit, but not being held up by the stock brackets, it is hanging very low. I might have a spare set in storage.
At least the map sensor in the intake manifold is the stock 2.5bar sensor.
No way to tell if the ECU is tuned from the outside, you need software to determine if it is. Trifecta will have the ECU locked down, vs most HPTuner tunes it will be available.
Also things to note, you have a forge bypass valve and it will need some semi regular maintenance to keep it functioning well. You also should look at replacing the elbow from the intake box to the turbo, the JB Weld on the PCV nipple is not a good thing. A vacuum leak at that point can cause all kinds of trouble since it is post MAF sensor.
The final note is the car really needs a boost leak test, given the look of the intercooler I'd be surprised if it isn't leaking.
If you could confirm whether or not you have some brackets, I think those would be worth me buying at this point.
The stock MAP sensors will be OK for a time right? I just want to get the car functioning consistently first. Though… I see they’re *only* another $115 from ZZPerformance
What was the factory boost level? This car definitely makes 20+ before it cuts itself off (have not driven it since Tuesday and I didn’t get on it hard after establishing that it doesn’t react well that. So as long as I stay at/below moderate throttle the car is pretty well behaved). So I feel like the PCM is tuned for something. However, I’m expecting that it will need to get a new map regardless because the other mods listed from the SS sedan registry are not present = not accurate parameters. I’ve read that Trifecta locks the PCM. Does that mean I am barred from using a core exchange from some of the other vendors? Am I forced to use Trifecta? I’m not even sure that IS the current state of the PCM
I will look for the intake elbow, and I have a boost leak tester on the way. And good catch on the bypass valve, I never would’ve known that. I will look that up.
Yup. Just ordered the upgraded intake tube from ZZP along with a pair of camshaft actuator solenoids. Their pair of solenoids were actually slightly cheaper than the RockAuto options so I cancelled that part of my RockAuto order. Otherwise I also have supplies for an oil change, inner fender well and associated clips, wipers, compression tester, boost leak tester, two new tires, and the HAYNES manual.
I am suspicious of the intercooler. I will update here with my findings.
Also, the radio is locked. The dealer told me they couldn’t help due to GM disconnecting the number they usually call to get a code….. is there anything I can do to get the stock radio working in the car?
The stock MAP sensors will be fine for most tunes. If you want to go big turbo and more than 25psi, then it's recommended.
Stock boost is around 15psi iirc. I'd very likely tuned if you're getting 20+, but if it was stock and something was causing an overboost condition, you would enter low power mode (max 1-2psi) in an effort to prevent turbo issues.
@Kolt any guidance on the stock radio programming?
The stock MAP sensors will be fine for most tunes. If you want to go big turbo and more than 25psi, then it's recommended.
Stock boost is around 15psi iirc. I'd very likely tuned if you're getting 20+, but if it was stock and something was causing an overboost condition, you would enter low power mode (max 1-2psi) in an effort to prevent turbo issues.
@Kolt any guidance on the stock radio programming?
Good to know about the stock MAP sensor. That will be plenty for now.
The low power mode describes perfectly what happens to the car after a full throttle pull. However it would then generate codes for rich fuel trim and engine under boost. So that to me indicates a leak somewhere under positive pressure between the sensors and causing them to disagree. Boost leak tester is on the way so we’ll know then.
I got the car up on ramps this morning and looked underneath. You guys were right that the IC is not on stock brackets, it’s just on two pieces of straight band metal, about 1/4 think and way too long.
It also became clear that this car had sat for a long period of time at one point. There were dirt dobber nests in many places, and that kinda filth you get from something sitting in unattended for a long while.
Does anyone know how to identity if the engine or front subframe is not original to the car with stamped codes or anything like that?
Also, the radio is locked. The dealer told me they couldn’t help due to GM disconnecting the number they usually call to get a code….. is there anything I can do to get the stock radio working in the car?
Originally Posted by ECaulk
@Kolt any guidance on the stock radio programming?
Go to a different dealer because they are idiots. The number they are referring to is old declo radios for some 05 and older vehicles. (which btw we got a new number from gm to call for those so they are also double idiots). The radio in the cobalt (if yours is stock and a compatible part number for your car) is programmed using a program called SPS, or service programming systems. It once was a standalone program we got through a webside link called TIS2WEB through gm global connect. Now its a integrated program in our new all-in-one software called Techline Connect (or TLC). So basically, they don't have competent techs or service advisors. Programming is a charge, usually for a radio we would udually charge between .5 to 2hr depending on radio, vehicle, and year model, for the cobalt we would personally do 1hr since we would need to pull RPO codes and sometimes base part number from the radio software to select which calibrations are needed during programming. Idk your local service rates but that would be about 155ish after tax here in TN, and that would be a set fee whether the programming works or not unfortunately without a diagnosis first to pull the radio and verify the radio with the parts catalog that it is compatible and there is no wiring issues or internal radio dtc's.
Sorry for the essay hope that helps
Good to know about the stock MAP sensor. That will be plenty for now.
The low power mode describes perfectly what happens to the car after a full throttle pull. However it would then generate codes for rich fuel trim and engine under boost. So that to me indicates a leak somewhere under positive pressure between the sensors and causing them to disagree. Boost leak tester is on the way so we’ll know then.
I got the car up on ramps this morning and looked underneath. You guys were right that the IC is not on stock brackets, it’s just on two pieces of straight band metal, about 1/4 think and way too long.
It also became clear that this car had sat for a long period of time at one point. There were dirt dobber nests in many places, and that kinda filth you get from something sitting in unattended for a long while.
Does anyone know how to identity if the engine or front subframe is not original to the car with stamped codes or anything like that?
Please, keep the help coming!
Originally Posted by Kolt
Go to a different dealer because they are idiots. The number they are referring to is old declo radios for some 05 and older vehicles. (which btw we got a new number from gm to call for those so they are also double idiots). The radio in the cobalt (if yours is stock and a compatible part number for your car) is programmed using a program called SPS, or service programming systems. It once was a standalone program we got through a webside link called TIS2WEB through gm global connect. Now its a integrated program in our new all-in-one software called Techline Connect (or TLC). So basically, they don't have competent techs or service advisors. Programming is a charge, usually for a radio we would udually charge between .5 to 2hr depending on radio, vehicle, and year model, for the cobalt we would personally do 1hr since we would need to pull RPO codes and sometimes base part number from the radio software to select which calibrations are needed during programming. Idk your local service rates but that would be about 155ish after tax here in TN, and that would be a set fee whether the programming works or not unfortunately without a diagnosis first to pull the radio and verify the radio with the parts catalog that it is compatible and there is no wiring issues or internal radio dtc's.
Sorry for the essay hope that helps
Go to a different dealer because they are idiots. The number they are referring to is old declo radios for some 05 and older vehicles. (which btw we got a new number from gm to call for those so they are also double idiots). The radio in the cobalt (if yours is stock and a compatible part number for your car) is programmed using a program called SPS, or service programming systems. It once was a standalone program we got through a webside link called TIS2WEB through gm global connect. Now its a integrated program in our new all-in-one software called Techline Connect (or TLC). So basically, they don't have competent techs or service advisors. Programming is a charge, usually for a radio we would udually charge between .5 to 2hr depending on radio, vehicle, and year model, for the cobalt we would personally do 1hr since we would need to pull RPO codes and sometimes base part number from the radio software to select which calibrations are needed during programming. Idk your local service rates but that would be about 155ish after tax here in TN, and that would be a set fee whether the programming works or not unfortunately without a diagnosis first to pull the radio and verify the radio with the parts catalog that it is compatible and there is no wiring issues or internal radio dtc's.
Sorry for the essay hope that helps
Well..... Then that is strike three for this dealer. I have never had any of my vehicles directly serviced there, but have had to interact with them concerning other people's cars and each time I hang up the phone and shake my head in disappointment. It's a shame because they are only a few minutes from my house, and in a more rural area. I called another dealership and couldn't make it through to a service advisor to make sure they knew they could do it before scheduling an appointment. Hopefully they will get my message and call back.
Are there any alternatives to having the dealer reprogram it? There is obviously the aftermarket route, but I'd like to keep the factory functionality of possible.
Back to the missing rear muffler. I called Modern Performance and they don't think they will be able to find a single spare rear muffler since they always sell in kits. They suggested I could buy a whole new kit But that is $530 just for the one part that I need. The rest of the exhaust is still in great shape.
I asked if a stock muffler would bolt to it and he said "no, we designed it to not work with anything else." Is there anyone that is parting out their MPx exhaust lol. Or I guess if anyone wanted to "split" a kit with me? IDK, but buying the whole new set seems really ridiculous. I reached out to a shop near me to see if they could fabricate something in its place, and they said to send some pictures, so maybe they can help.
Also, I feel like this thread is growing beyond the scope of a "New Member Check-In." Would I be better off asking these individual questions elsewhere with more viewing traffic?
Well..... Then that is strike three for this dealer. I have never had any of my vehicles directly serviced there, but have had to interact with them concerning other people's cars and each time I hang up the phone and shake my head in disappointment. It's a shame because they are only a few minutes from my house, and in a more rural area. I called another dealership and couldn't make it through to a service advisor to make sure they knew they could do it before scheduling an appointment. Hopefully they will get my message and call back.
Are there any alternatives to having the dealer reprogram it? There is obviously the aftermarket route, but I'd like to keep the factory functionality of possible.
Not really, unless you have a independent dealer near you that has the equipment and subscription to do programming either with our hardware or something like a fully decked out AUTEL scanner like we use for other manufactures in our used car side. Unfortunately most just sublet out to the main dealer because its not cheap to do in house. We had to resort to getting a AUTEL setup because of hard to work with other manufacture dealers nearby. Think just the scanner and all the most common manufacture adapters is about 3 or 4 grand, then subscriptions to programming software is brand specific. So, sorry man. If your ever near west tn I can program it cheap for cash
It is confirmed. The car has been in at least a minor accident. I had the front bumper off doing some looking around for cracked IC parts or other boost leaks and discovered:
- crash bar is dented and bent in one spot.
- crash foam has cracks from an impact
- passenger side crash bar mount is crushed slightly
- radiator mounting brackets are 'wonky'
At least I was able to discover and fix the boost leak (until another one developed that has yet to be found) and fixed the low-hanging IC problem. And everything fits relatively nicely back together as far as bumper and headlights go.
Whoever did the last work on this car wasn't just bad, but savage. Mismatched bolt sizes, stripped clamps, nasty homemade brackets. It is a miracle the car functions as well as it does (fingers crossed it continues to be basically reliable).
The next major fixes will be to track down this other boost leak that has appeared and get the smoke out of the exhaust fixed. Busted bumper foam Passenger side crash bar So much for a clean Carfax hahaha Pretty good sized tear in the hot side IC coupler
@ECaulk, I haven't found anything useful about the Forge Bypass valve and what regular maintenance it will need. Can you elaborate on that? Looks like it has two o-rings and a spring, just take it off and get some lubricant on those?
The grease recommended is Mobile 1 Synthetic Grease or any high temp synthetic grease. Ensure everything is clean before putting new grease on and that the o-ring has no cracks or uneven wear. Then install the piston and move it back and forth by hand before putting the spring and top back on.
11-01-2022, 11:29 PM
and I want this thing sneaky quite), anybody got one???
Can someone help me identify: 
But that is $530 just for the one part that I need. The rest of the exhaust is still in great shape. 
