GM Stage 2 + 30 Shot
you need this one and from what i hear its a waste of money but i dont care because the point is i dont want any one to know about it, and if it could drop .10 off the time its worth it to me =)
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku
with a dry kit you might lock up an injector, i dont know what the duty cycle is on the injectors, but the dry kit will make them work even harder, just get a nice wet kit, and take out the sparetire and hide like 2 5lb bottles side by side under the rear mat.
you tap into the vacume line on the fuelpressure regulator for a dry kit, its realy simple. but with any forced induction application you realy dont want to run a drykit as a dry kit boost fuel pressure ona 1:1 ratio and so does your computer automaticaly while under boost. just do the smart thing and run a wetkit, hide the lines realy good, and dont open the trunk
with mine, people who dont know dont even notice my kit, because i painted the solinoids black, and hid them low in the engine bay amungst the wireing harness, i cut off all the straight fittings and put angled fittings as needed to fit the contour of the engine bay so that everything ties togeather. it sounds alot more complicated than it actualy is. my friends dont call me nitrous don for nothing
with mine, people who dont know dont even notice my kit, because i painted the solinoids black, and hid them low in the engine bay amungst the wireing harness, i cut off all the straight fittings and put angled fittings as needed to fit the contour of the engine bay so that everything ties togeather. it sounds alot more complicated than it actualy is. my friends dont call me nitrous don for nothing
no one is going to be able to tell you have nitrous unless you show them so I don't know what good having a tiny bottle is...
you could run a 35 wet shot if you wanted but I guarantee you're gonna want more and its gonna suck ass to run a larger shot with a little ass bottle.
Also I highly doubt your 42# injectors would be able to support a dry shot...
you could run a 35 wet shot if you wanted but I guarantee you're gonna want more and its gonna suck ass to run a larger shot with a little ass bottle.
Also I highly doubt your 42# injectors would be able to support a dry shot...
Don't do a dry shot with a stage 2 injectors. With some 60# injectors you might be ok. I considered a dry shot, but getting new injectors would be an extra 200 bux and you can just wet kit and do up to a 75 shot.
If you are stuck on a dry shot for any various reason I would be interested to know how it works out for you with some 60# injectors. I don't think it's a bad idea and could be worth trying.
If you are stuck on a dry shot for any various reason I would be interested to know how it works out for you with some 60# injectors. I don't think it's a bad idea and could be worth trying.
you tap into the vacume line on the fuelpressure regulator for a dry kit, its realy simple. but with any forced induction application you realy dont want to run a drykit as a dry kit boost fuel pressure ona 1:1 ratio and so does your computer automaticaly while under boost. just do the smart thing and run a wetkit, hide the lines realy good, and dont open the trunk
with mine, people who dont know dont even notice my kit, because i painted the solinoids black, and hid them low in the engine bay amungst the wireing harness, i cut off all the straight fittings and put angled fittings as needed to fit the contour of the engine bay so that everything ties togeather. it sounds alot more complicated than it actualy is. my friends dont call me nitrous don for nothing 
with mine, people who dont know dont even notice my kit, because i painted the solinoids black, and hid them low in the engine bay amungst the wireing harness, i cut off all the straight fittings and put angled fittings as needed to fit the contour of the engine bay so that everything ties togeather. it sounds alot more complicated than it actualy is. my friends dont call me nitrous don for nothing 
so I don't think this will work. I had a dry kit on my cav an the setup you are talking about was how it was set up.
If you install a meth kit really cleanly you won't even see it. Hid the pump and everything in the front bumper and put the nozzle under the intake. You can only feel it, not see it. Now that's sneaky! You're better off getting the 2.8" pulley and meth than Nitrous.
Yes you can run both. Nitrous adds air, meth cools air. Meth is best used with increasing timing, otherwise you really don't see power gains from it alone.
meth only works on boosted applications
nitrous works on all apps, but run a wet shot
i guess someone mentioned that ecotecs are returnless now as are most cars
but ive seen the spacer setup and solinoids on the TB and they all are pretty sweet
but i would still run a spacer
nitrous works on all apps, but run a wet shot
i guess someone mentioned that ecotecs are returnless now as are most cars
but ive seen the spacer setup and solinoids on the TB and they all are pretty sweet
but i would still run a spacer
meth only works on boosted applications
nitrous works on all apps, but run a wet shot
i guess someone mentioned that ecotecs are returnless now as are most cars
but ive seen the spacer setup and solinoids on the TB and they all are pretty sweet
but i would still run a spacer
nitrous works on all apps, but run a wet shot
i guess someone mentioned that ecotecs are returnless now as are most cars
but ive seen the spacer setup and solinoids on the TB and they all are pretty sweet
but i would still run a spacer
http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/store...0002_757330_-1
According to Snow, this is a description of their n/a kit and its intended use:
Gas Boost Cooler Stage-1 N/A
Applications: Naturally Aspirated Engines with High or Low Compression with or without Nitrous
Water/methanol injection system with everything needed for non-boosted applications including 140psi high volume pump, and an adjustable vacuum switch (0-10 inches) to activate. This allows activation anywhere from off idle to the high load state for complete flexibility. This is a complete kit made with quality, proven components.
Naturally aspirated/high compression engines: In this application, water/methanol injection allows the use of pump fuel in all but the most extreme situations which effects tremendous cost savings as well as horsepower increases due to air density increase and realized timing potential. The system is activated by a throttle switch so that injection takes place only during high engine loads when needed.
NOS engines: With NOS, water/methanol injection allows the use of full timing even with large (250HP+) quantities. Injection is controlled by the same means that controls NOS injection.
Naturally aspirated/stock compression: With naturally aspirated engines with less than 10:1 compression, water/methanol is used typically in warm climates to get the intake temps back to 60°f. Benefits include: 10-15 HP increases from air density increases and full timing, Increased gas mileage, and carbon free combustion chambers. Activation is by a throttle switch adjusted for onset engine load. With this application, the nozzle is sized so that no more than 10% of total fuel consumption at peak flywheel HP is injected.
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