i have my own proof. like i said i've dyno'd at 3 different dyno's and can tell you the mustang dyno sheet i posted is the lowest reading dyno around. tune time performance.

 

You have no clue. So you are saying your cobalt is making 300WHP on a dynojet. Since you have to add 20-30 WHP and you are already making 350 on a Mustang So that means on a dyno jet you would be making 370-380. Take away the 75 pills and your making 300Whp.

sorry but your Cobalt isn't making 300WHP on a 2.8 and 60lbers.

Bring that car down to Tx and I bet you it makes 250 on a 2.8 and 60's and thats being generous.

Like I say every time someone posts numbers. A Dyno is a tuning tool not a power gauging tool.

 

gm stg2, 2.8, cx h/e, 45 wet shot, 1step colder plugs, that's it (i made 263whp off the spray)


60's, 2.8, cx h/e, 75 wet shot, 1step colder plugs, header + 3" dp w/cat, that's it.


so you were saying?

right... i've dyno'd on 3 different dyno's. i know my area pretty well. i know which dyno's give you inflated numbers and which are the lowest reading dyno's. seen friends go from the highest to the lowest with the same mod's around the same time.

i also say dyno numbers don't mean **** because every other place is different. you cant' say florida dyno's read low or accurate and boston dyno's read high. also if you go back to the same dyno same day around the samy time it is a power gauging tool. to see if your gaining power slightly.

it's all different. at the end of the day it just becomes a tuning tool and that's all it should be. track times is what counts.

 

Thanks for posting up a Dyno with STD smoothing 5. So you can take away another 2.6 percent.

SAE is the correct way to measure your dyno numbers STD numbers are inflated by 2.6%.

Which means 307 WHP with a 2.6% reduction means your car makes 299 on the hose.

 

if you don't care about dyno numbers why are you argueing again? also that's on my 45 shot so i guess your statement on me not making 300whp+ on a dynojet or mustang dyno around my area is completely wrong. the dyno's around my area must all be broken. lol

ps. the dynojet i had no bottle warmer and it was a really hot day (99 degree's out) and the bottle temp was 750psi.. lol

ALSO the mustang dyno reads a lot lot lower than that dyno jet. also i have been to another dynojet which reads very high too

 

STD number can be even more off if the dyno isn't calibrated 100%.

How come the only 2 stock SS/Tc's that have dynoed on a mustang dyno have made 260 265 and the other made 250 277

Yet everyone that dyno's their stock TC on a dynojet they make around 235-245 and around 240-250WTQ.

 

notice you keep saying it yourself. you keep saying the numbers varry so much in different areas. do you realize your making all my statements true. i told you every dyno is very different. i know this around my area and everything your argueing about is making my statement that much more true. i also know that any dyno around my area i break 300whp with ease. with std numbers corrected. however it doesn't matter because the 4-5 dyno's around my area ARE NOT THE SAME AS THE ONES AROUND YOUR AREA

 

BAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA

100 Degree day with a bottle temp @ 750 LOL right dude Unless your bottle was completely empty. There is no way it can be 100 degrees outside yet your bottle only have 750 PSI. What a noob.

@ 80 degrees where I live my bottle temp is at 1100.

You are lying out of your ass. Not only that but I was just point out how off your dyno numbers were. You try and back up your swift talking with an STD dyno graph congratulations thats what I call an inflated dyno.

 

try driving for 2 hours straight with the bottle in the car with the a/c on max.

go talk to the well known paul who broke 414whp on the dynojet i put down 307whp with the 45shot on gm stg2. he will tell you he was there that day. very hot day and i drove 2+ hours with my a/c on max. go look up the thread. CBodnar.

no need to lie. ps. you never answered what i said. trying to dodge the question? you keep proving me right

 

What question? You have been proved to be ignorant this whole thread 100 degrees yet your bottle was only @ 750 PSI. Your excuse is that you drove 2 hours and had the AC on max. LOL Wow. Hold on I need to go purchase some waders if I am going to continue this discussion. I don't want to be covered in **** when I get off

 

your telling me you use nitrous and for a long time? yet you have never driven around with the bottle in your car with the a/c on or the bottle getting cold? huh? have you ever put the bottle in your basement then put it in your car ( assuming your basement is very cold like mine ). exactly what bottle temp do you get if your bottle is very cold?

also since you use and know nitrous so well if you have your bottle temp at 950psi or so and you spray or do a high pull and or dyno pull exactly roughly what would your bottle pressure be after a highway pull or a dyno pull? difference? i question you making fun of me and claiming you know nitrous so well. i have no reason to bullshit or lie to you. i am posting up the information and some things you said i did not argue i agree'd with you. however you saying some of the stuff your saying leads to you not knowing much about nitrous if you don't believe my bottle temp was that low after driving for 2+ hours while the car was freezing.

read the above and answer the questions. i would love to see if you agree with me or disagree with me. if you don't believe driving around for 2+ hours with the the car being cold as hell and the bottle in the back seat w/o a bottle warmer claim 750psi is impossible...

 

hi c-boner

 

Ok, so we made a run tonight with the 40/28 setup, and the results are no knock through 3rd gear 15* timing, o2s are the same as w/o n2o, maybe slightly richer at lower rpms. Did 2 runs though, 2nd run, no knock up until it had a random lean spike, had a noticable cutout, and o2 went to 770 everything else read normal. The other main problem, is that you feel an initial pull from the n2o engaging, but after that it really doesnt seem any faster than w/o n2o. Anyone have any reasoning to this? Trying to think of any possible reasons, spark plugs maybe... cause i really dont know.

 

plugs make a big difference. only way to read them is to take them out right after the pull. like right after.

do you have any log's you saved? i would like to see them. also have no clue really why it would seem just as slow as w/o n2o. hmmm

 

im posting from my phone, but ill post the log from the runs when i get a chance.

 

ok...

 

jason whats his set up? what does he have again?

 

You are retarded.

I ask questions not because I don't want to spend money.. But because I don't want to WASTE money on things that will not benefit me.

If I buy the wrong jet.. What good does that do me? An extra 11 bucks down the drain...

If I buy 60s.. What good does that do me as far as nitrous? NO good. Waste of 200 bucks. I ask questions so I don't make these extra expenses that are not necessary. Call it cheap.

I call you retarded.

42s
2.9
GM Stg 2 Timing maps w/ timing retarded to 15 degrees at WOT
Header back
Intake
2-Step Colder NGKs (Iridiums)



I think I am gonna pick up some NGK BKR7E's (1-Step Colder Copper Core) and gap them at 0.035


Still trying to figure out what the problem is with my shot.

As Jason said.. My AFRs are where they should be.. And I don't knock until randomly in my upper RPM range and there were 2 distinct "hiccups" of knock at the top of 3rd before having to shift. I'm running the same almost even a tad bit richer on n20 then when im off the bottle.. I feel the 75 shot engage but half way through it.. it seems to die out and feels as if I can't even tell the difference with or w/out nitrous. And this is a 75 shot..

The 35 shot that I ran almost felt as if it gave me more power and felt more right than this shot by far.

We're still trying to figure it out

 

Here's the log from the run,
1st run is w/o N2O
2nd run is with N2O but didnt rev out all the way
3rd run is with N2O but cutout about 6500.

You can probably tell from the scans that it isnt much faster if any.


NITROUS 1.hpl

 

i LOL @ call it cheap, i call you retarded

i use ngk bkr7e's 1step colder plugs.

i run a .38 gap with the 75shot just b/c i daily drive the car and when you gap it to .34 or something it is all rough. i hated it. just a thought. if i were you i'd just gap it to like .36

when i first ran the shot people told me the plugs must be gapped to .32 - .34 or i'll blow up. well i listened to them and the car ran like **** off the spray so i just pulled them out and put it to .38

*i also felt the same thing you did recently. i was running the 75shot with gm stg2 tune switched to run with 60's. the timing was i think 19degree's or so but i was getting a lot of knock up top and the car felt faster on gm stg2 with the smaller injectors and the 45wet shot i ran for a long time.

once you get over this hump like i am you will be a lot faster once you start figuring everything out. i can tell you that my car is becoming a whole lot faster with fixing it's afr numbers during WOT and also the timing issue i was having getting knock.

 

60's are a good investment for even you mods without nitrous ... but a PROPERLY setup nitrous system doesn't need bigger injectors..

the fact that you're running a 2.9 on 42s is cutting it close while you can do it it's not recommended ESP if you don't have a wideband.. if you had a wideband whatever .. but seeing as you dont have fun running shitty timing and not knowing how safe the car is and potentially popping because you didn't do it right the first time ..

and if you accidentally buy the wrong thing.. then turn around and sell it ... someone will buy it ..

 

agree with him on this one. just copy cat my build. your almost there. just put on that 2.80 and get 60's then a wideband and call it a day. i didn't run a wideband for a year or so but it's just plain old stupid after a while. i've noticed the days were it's hot my afr is 12.0 during a wot pull off the spray and at night it's starting to get cold and my afr is 12.6 during a wot pull now off the spray.

look at my build on page 4 i believe i posted it up

 

figured out the problem, it was the lean cutoff switch, now we just need a 26 fuel jet.

 

Trust me, I blew 2 motors by doing it wrong. You do not want that to happen.

 

its not running bad... 15* timing no knock, 40/28 jet sizes (running a little too rich gonna switch to 42/28)