Pittsburgh Crew < You
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Joined: 02-28-06
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From: Greensburg (PA)
Not to mention that it's not like we're talking about a simple beater ride here... you're putting all this $$ into the good pistons, and then planning on this car putting some more power down and I'm sure increased boost like it was.... it's just plain silly to NOT get things right from the start.
Is it a PITA.... yes.
Is it worth it... F-Yeah.
my 3.87 cents ( adjusted for inflation )
Oh... and while I'm thinking about it.....
If anyone is planning on coming to BR Sunday for the Autocross.... I'm staying in PGH Saturday night, and I won't have net access all weekend, so I won't be caravaning with anyone that morning.
The registration starts around 8 and will be done by 9-9:30 IIRC. Going to be nice and there's already about 60 peeps registered, so spots fill up...
Is it a PITA.... yes.
Is it worth it... F-Yeah.
my 3.87 cents ( adjusted for inflation )
Oh... and while I'm thinking about it.....
If anyone is planning on coming to BR Sunday for the Autocross.... I'm staying in PGH Saturday night, and I won't have net access all weekend, so I won't be caravaning with anyone that morning.
The registration starts around 8 and will be done by 9-9:30 IIRC. Going to be nice and there's already about 60 peeps registered, so spots fill up...
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Joined: 05-01-06
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From: Irwin,PA
Alicia... if you DO come... please bring the brake fluid. I'm hoping to get this done in the next week or so.
Dan P.: For now... as Justin said, if they decide DSP is the required class you need to be in.. the fix is easy on the # plate
G-man.... I don't know anyone that has a set of stockers that aren't on the car.
Dan P.: For now... as Justin said, if they decide DSP is the required class you need to be in.. the fix is easy on the # plate
G-man.... I don't know anyone that has a set of stockers that aren't on the car.
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Joined: 03-03-06
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From: Pittsburgh, PA
GM eco service manual only recommends honing to bust up the glazing if there is any. They recommend against honing if its needed, rather replace the entire sleeve and also its mentioned that if its replaced, not to hone the new sleeve. I know the build book says otherwise, I'm just throwing that out there.
Little excerpt from alldata about honing:
Fine vertical scratches made by the ring ends do not, by themselves, cause excessive oil consumption. Do not hone the cylinder in order to remove these scratches.
If the bore is glazed but otherwise serviceable, lightly break the glaze with a hone.
If the cylinder bore is out of specification, install a new cylinder bore sleeve.
Little excerpt from alldata about honing:
Fine vertical scratches made by the ring ends do not, by themselves, cause excessive oil consumption. Do not hone the cylinder in order to remove these scratches.
If the bore is glazed but otherwise serviceable, lightly break the glaze with a hone.
If the cylinder bore is out of specification, install a new cylinder bore sleeve.
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Joined: 05-01-06
Posts: 2,989
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From: Irwin,PA
hmmmmm
internesting
Speaking of motors.... you guys have talked about getting flywheels and such... are the Ecos externally or internally balanced motors?? If they how would just throwing on a new flywheel affect that? I would think that if the car is internally balanced that throwing a new flywheel on would adversly affect it. Or is that backwards... if it was EXTERNALLY balanced it would throw it off.
internesting
Speaking of motors.... you guys have talked about getting flywheels and such... are the Ecos externally or internally balanced motors?? If they how would just throwing on a new flywheel affect that? I would think that if the car is internally balanced that throwing a new flywheel on would adversly affect it. Or is that backwards... if it was EXTERNALLY balanced it would throw it off.
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Joined: 02-28-06
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From: Greensburg (PA)
GM eco service manual only recommends honing to bust up the glazing if there is any. They recommend against honing if its needed, rather replace the entire sleeve and also its mentioned that if its replaced, not to hone the new sleeve. I know the build book says otherwise, I'm just throwing that out there.
Little excerpt from alldata about honing:
Fine vertical scratches made by the ring ends do not, by themselves, cause excessive oil consumption. Do not hone the cylinder in order to remove these scratches.
If the bore is glazed but otherwise serviceable, lightly break the glaze with a hone.
If the cylinder bore is out of specification, install a new cylinder bore sleeve.
Little excerpt from alldata about honing:
Fine vertical scratches made by the ring ends do not, by themselves, cause excessive oil consumption. Do not hone the cylinder in order to remove these scratches.
If the bore is glazed but otherwise serviceable, lightly break the glaze with a hone.
If the cylinder bore is out of specification, install a new cylinder bore sleeve.
Senior Member
Joined: 02-28-06
Posts: 950
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From: Greensburg (PA)
Senior Member
Joined: 03-03-06
Posts: 4,958
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From: Pittsburgh, PA
As far as I know the land didn't damage the bore, its made from alluminum, while the liner is made from a harder steel. Since the rings are steel, they can scratch the liner easier. When you hone, you remove any previous scratches from the old rings which will cause leaks. For some reason, GM recommends against honing for that reason.
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From: Greensburg (PA)
Just tryin to help. I'd hate to see it all back together and not get a proper ring seatin that cylinder..."Wonder where that blow by is coming from...hmm"...
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From: Pittsburgh, PA
Speaking of motors.... you guys have talked about getting flywheels and such... are the Ecos externally or internally balanced motors?? If they how would just throwing on a new flywheel affect that? I would think that if the car is internally balanced that throwing a new flywheel on would adversly affect it. Or is that backwards... if it was EXTERNALLY balanced it would throw it off.
Yeah, I know what ya mean. We are just as equally concerned about using a tool and making the situation worse though. I do agree with ya though, it should have a couple of passes, cause I know theres probably glazing on that bore.
Last edited by Witt; Apr 27, 2007 at 12:27 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
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Joined: 06-08-05
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From: Pittsburgh
Sway bar links ------ $120
Steering knuckles --- $520
Axels------------------ $720
4 re-built calipers --- $200
Coilovers ------------ $1200
That's all without shipping. I'm looking at damn near $3000 worth of suspension work.
I'm really starting to hate this ******* car. The only "for fun" part of that list is the coilovers. Everything else is bad or going bad quickly. Blah.
Steering knuckles --- $520
Axels------------------ $720
4 re-built calipers --- $200
Coilovers ------------ $1200
That's all without shipping. I'm looking at damn near $3000 worth of suspension work.
I'm really starting to hate this ******* car. The only "for fun" part of that list is the coilovers. Everything else is bad or going bad quickly. Blah.
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Joined: 05-01-06
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From: Irwin,PA
I'd have to think about that one... never thought of the V vs. inline theory.
well... that and the steering knuckles. She could get OEM style, but the OEM upgrade "competition" spec ones aren't going to be found anywhere.
well... that and the steering knuckles. She could get OEM style, but the OEM upgrade "competition" spec ones aren't going to be found anywhere.
Last edited by LittleStealthSS; Apr 27, 2007 at 12:34 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
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From: Pittsburgh
I'm NOT replacing with stock parts. Learned that lesson the hard way. You pour more money into replacing half-assed stock parts over and over and over again rather than doing it right the first time. Most of that **** has been bad since <15,000 miles. I'm actually in talks with GM about replacing them under warranty like SHOULD have been done in the first place. I have to gather up all the paperwork and have it into the rep in the next week or so and see what they're willing to do. So if that falls through, I'll be buying everything myself. Really I'm mainly after them for the calipers. The rest of the stuff will be iffy to prove but I have two difference service requests where the tech put down "CALIPER STICKS" and then didn't replace it.
Last edited by alleycat58; Apr 27, 2007 at 01:23 PM.
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From: Pittsburgh
LOL Dan, you're getting screwed six ways to Sunday on the classing thing, but welcome to the crazy world of auto-x rules. And bullshit on "same models" on the "same line" because they split the Neon between N/A and Turbo.
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From: Pittsburgh
Beyond that, why aren't the WRX and STi's in the same class? MINI and MINI-S? Sky and Sky Redline? Solstice and GXP? Although, LMAO, they put the ION in CSP and the ION Redline in DSP????? WTF!!!!!!!!! They don't even have a class for the 2.4L ION. RX-7 turbo and non-turbo go into different classes. Focus and Focus SVT. PT Cruiser turbo and non-turbo.
There's a lot of contradictions there, and those are the ones I just happened to notice. The Neon is the best example because they start out in the same classes as the N/A and SC - G stock and D stock the non-turbo goes to DSP and the turbo goes to CSP. I think the Cobalt should follow suit.
There's a lot of contradictions there, and those are the ones I just happened to notice. The Neon is the best example because they start out in the same classes as the N/A and SC - G stock and D stock the non-turbo goes to DSP and the turbo goes to CSP. I think the Cobalt should follow suit.
Thread Starter
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From: Pittsburgh, PA
Beyond that, why aren't the WRX and STi's in the same class? MINI and MINI-S? Sky and Sky Redline? Solstice and GXP? Although, LMAO, they put the ION in CSP and the ION Redline in DSP????? WTF!!!!!!!!! They don't even have a class for the 2.4L ION. RX-7 turbo and non-turbo go into different classes. Focus and Focus SVT. PT Cruiser turbo and non-turbo.
There's a lot of contradictions there, and those are the ones I just happened to notice. The Neon is the best example because they start out in the same classes as the N/A and SC - G stock and D stock the non-turbo goes to DSP and the turbo goes to CSP. I think the Cobalt should follow suit.
There's a lot of contradictions there, and those are the ones I just happened to notice. The Neon is the best example because they start out in the same classes as the N/A and SC - G stock and D stock the non-turbo goes to DSP and the turbo goes to CSP. I think the Cobalt should follow suit.
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From: Pittsburgh
LOL.....and here I only thought that was for street mod...
On second thought, debadge, de-wing, and just tell them you're a 2.2. Those get put into FSP - enjoy the raping and pilliaging!!!!!
On second thought, debadge, de-wing, and just tell them you're a 2.2. Those get put into FSP - enjoy the raping and pilliaging!!!!!
Last edited by alleycat58; Apr 27, 2007 at 03:18 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
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From: Somewhere
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From: Greensburg (PA)
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From: Pittsburgh
