scotch89

iTrader: (1)

so this is the 2nd time i bought these mounts. first time was stage1 and the 2nd time i bought the full stage2 setup. but when i got these on i did a few launches and it still jumped around but i figured that was from the snowtires i had. so i put my summer tires on 245/45/17 bf good rich g sports and did a lauch and it feels stock....im getting frustrated with this product. i had a guy even install them for me to make sure i didnt do anything wrong. but basically when i launch the car i do about 1500 and the try to slip the clutch with more gas and it stil hops. then i just push in the clutch let it out normail and go. idk maybe my launching is shitty....im just kinda scared to snap my tranny again, witch makes me not want to drive that way. but thats the only reson y i bought it. any help? would it help if i got a solid top engine mount??

BLAZIN07SS

iTrader: (7)

did the guy who installed it loosen the top engine mount to let the engine rotate?

G Speed

what he said ^^ how much power are you making?

scotch89

iTrader: (1)

no he didnt, when i first got the stage1 mount i did that. i want to say i did this my self after he installed the mounts. i remember getting underneath my car looking to see if everythnig was good and noticed that the back mount bolt backed off, so i tightened the sucker down. i guess ill try that just to make sure i did that right. should i loosen the drive side engine mount as well? and to make the engine rotate do u actually start the car while the mounts are loose, or shake the moter by hand to make it move?

USMCFieldMP

iTrader: (1)

Sounds like there is either an installation error... or a problem else where. I never had a problem with mine... not at 300, 350, or 400whp launching at 4k on Street Tires or DR's... both on the street.

Also, what's your tire pressure at?

nizzle

iTrader: (7)

Do you have an ingalls t.d.? That helped my wheel hop alot. So did lowering the car.

scotch89

iTrader: (1)

i dynoed on a mustang dyno max was 214
42lb 2.8 s3HE, intake, dual pass trifect tuned.

scotch89

iTrader: (1)

tire pressure i relly have no clue i just had them installed last monday. no ingalls TQ or lowered. there was a problem when i installed my stage 1. when i went to put that adapter in the back part i went to install the bracket that goes on to the tranny it self and for some reson my jack came off the tranny and was not supporting the tranny. so i hurryed up and got the jack back under it to support it and i went to tighten the last bolt that was in it when it feel, and noticed i some how crossed threaded the dam thing. so thats why i took it to a guy that had a lift and new what the he was doing. he put that tool in the hole that got cross threaded and he said "good u didnt f up the threads, i can just chase it" so im assuming it was all good cause he used a breaker bar to tighten it and nothing gave lol. also when he installed both mounts he didnt use a jack or anything to support the tranny he removed the mount grabed the new one and just put it in. i didnt say anything cause he did this all for no charge

Zooomer

iTrader: (1)

Rotated mounts are supposed to align the axles. The amount they need to move varies based on how much/if your car is lowered. There's a diagram floating around CSS somewhere showing this.

scotch89

iTrader: (1)

so would it be worth it to loosen both engine mounts or just the main one on passenger side?

qwikredline

Interesting that zoomer, who denied that rotated mounts rotated, now joins the club. Scotch its best to loosen the three bolts either side of the engine at the top that secure the mounts to the motor and trans. These mount plates have large holes, and loosening them off 3/4 turn will let the motor rotate. When installing the mounts, remove the rear support bracket to install the keyhole spacer or the stage 2 mount. then do the front, (you have to support the motor in this entire sequence) and then torque all bolts to factory spec (42 ft lbs for the most part) starting at lower rear/lower front/upper drivers side/upper passenger side.

If you drag race the car will still hop. You gotta chain down the front struts, raise the rear of the car, and you need a special driver side upper mount. I custom make those, one at a time.

Then you will break your transmission. I do reinforcements for the case, and we are making stronger 3rd gear assemblies.

At about this point in time, however, you should be deciding to drag race a rear wheel drive car and enjoy your cobalt for daily driving lol

haymakercobalt

Woah. I didn't know you still came on this site John.

ATLsilverSS

iTrader: (4)

if memory serves me correctly these mounts were designed by Powell Racing and are not 100% eurothane...im thinking they have a rubber lining or something. they were designed this way so that they actually still have some give....so you dont break driveline parts down the line. i read this on this site very recently but im not sure where. im thinking ff_ace or cmiller chimed in on this in another thread somewhere

BoostedYards86

try the bwoody solid mounts. they worked great for me in my redline.

scotch89

iTrader: (1)

i was actually thinking of doing that as well! i seen a how to on how to make them your self i think it was like 90 all together

BoostedYards86

hope you can weld then. they need to be strong.

scotch89

iTrader: (1)

didnt see any parts that needed to be welded. its all threaded.

Zooomer

iTrader: (1)

I have not 'joined the club' The club you speak of is one of ignorance that doesn't understand what rotating the engine does, how much it should be done, or how lowering springs affect the car. To make a blanket statement like 'rotating mounts aligns the axles' is like saying 'adding fuel optimizes your AF ratio'. Clearly you have to understand where you're at before you change things. This is something not many wish to discuss though...

USMCFieldMP

iTrader: (1)

Well, that's something to check. A lower tire pressure will help prevent Wheel Hop.

Think of your tires as basketballs... when they're full of air... they bounce a lot easier, right? Before I put in the rotated mounts... I would run 30psi in the fronts to try and prevent wheel hop. It usually helped/worked. I'm going through this problem with my GTI now too though. Too much tire pressure, and she'll hop all over the place.