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Old Jan 31, 2010 | 05:00 PM
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Rydis's Avatar
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From: Parrish, FL
14 hours of work

had a long 14 hour weekend and first time using a machine instead of hand. I was hoping for more like I seen here..but hey first time right..with a buffer at least.

Before:
..from when car was broken into :/




After:

Done for the night...




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Old Jan 31, 2010 | 05:04 PM
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Looks good man! Now drop that ****!
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Old Jan 31, 2010 | 05:08 PM
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Looks great man, nice work.

If it wasn't so damn cold here I'd be doing the same to my car.
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Old Jan 31, 2010 | 05:12 PM
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From: Parrish, FL
I wont drop my car at all. Some many damn pot holes and things around here to hit...I do need tint though. I did it all in the garage..but yeah still wasn't cold. thanks
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Old Jan 31, 2010 | 05:14 PM
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Originally Posted by Rydis
I wont drop my car at all. Some many damn pot holes and things around here to hit...I do need tint though. I did it all in the garage..but yeah still wasn't cold. thanks
Nothing tops NYC roads, & I'm lowered.
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Old Jan 31, 2010 | 05:20 PM
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good job there. i did see this on my news feed btw.
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Old Jan 31, 2010 | 05:22 PM
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From: Ar-kan-sas
tire shine the wheel wells. paint looks good, but that ***** ruins it!
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Old Jan 31, 2010 | 05:41 PM
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I always tell my friends to wash there fender wells,it still makes the car look dirty if there not washed.
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Old Jan 31, 2010 | 05:54 PM
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From: Parrish, FL
honestly I didn't even touch the wheels at all. I completely forgot lol..then when I was done..I was like..I dont want to do this..so next time.
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Old Jan 31, 2010 | 06:10 PM
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that is a great first try. better than i would do.
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Old Jan 31, 2010 | 10:56 PM
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From: Parrish, FL
thanks. For those interested I used

PC 7424xp
Optimum Car Wash
Optimum Compound II (orange CCS pad)
Optimum Polish II (white CCS pad)
Mez's 85d Polish (grey CCS pad)
Poorboys Sealant EX (blue CCS pad)
Wolfgang fuzion wax

Long process..hopefully I dont have so much orange peel next time
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Old Jan 31, 2010 | 11:25 PM
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Looks real good.

You will never get rid of orange peel until you wet sand, then wheel.
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Old Feb 1, 2010 | 08:44 AM
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From: Ar-kan-sas
if you would like to cut your correction time in half, stop using optimum and go pick up some megiuars 105 and 205
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Old Feb 1, 2010 | 08:48 AM
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From: Land of Freedom
if he was lowered you wouldnt see the wheel wells

came out nice man, i got fresh paint on my car and it looks the same, im afraid to wash it then ill get light marks on it, wish i knew how to do what you did to my car
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Old Feb 1, 2010 | 11:29 AM
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Just an orbital wheel, buffing pads, and cutter.

14 hours is a long ting to wheel one car. We usually can wet sand and wheel an entire car fresh out of paint in 4-5 hours. That's a shop though, I know I'd take a little longer at home too.

Either way, good job.
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Old Feb 1, 2010 | 11:59 AM
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damn man looks good.
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Old Feb 1, 2010 | 12:19 PM
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So was it nerve wracking using a buffer on your car for the first time? Mine's sitting in a box in my garage waiting for Spring (just doing swirl removal correction this time around) and I have visions of it slipping out of my hand, kinda like Wayne's World when he dragged the air gun down the side of the car .
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Old Feb 1, 2010 | 02:17 PM
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Originally Posted by Permafried-
So was it nerve wracking using a buffer on your car for the first time? Mine's sitting in a box in my garage waiting for Spring (just doing swirl removal correction this time around) and I have visions of it slipping out of my hand, kinda like Wayne's World when he dragged the air gun down the side of the car .
Just some of my advice. Always have the pad level on the car. Watch your edges. Never stay in one spot for over a second.

If you burn through anywhere you will have to spot paint.

Just my 2 cents. I've burned through so many cars before and its just alot of practice. Just don't burn anywhere. lol. Good luck.
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Old Feb 1, 2010 | 02:19 PM
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Originally Posted by JoshuaVnyrd1817
Just some of my advice. Always have the pad level on the car. Watch your edges. Never stay in one spot for over a second.

If you burn through anywhere you will have to spot paint.

Just my 2 cents. I've burned through so many cars before and its just alot of practice. Just don't burn anywhere. lol. Good luck.
Since the swirl remover is a very light abrasive and I'm using the PC I hope burning won't be a concern. With a heavier compound I can definitely see how this would be a problem, but even then wouldn't you have to put way too much pressure on the buffer for a random orbital to burn the clear?
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Old Feb 1, 2010 | 03:11 PM
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From: Parrish, FL
Originally Posted by JoshuaVnyrd1817
Looks real good.

You will never get rid of orange peel until you wet sand, then wheel.
Yeah..im still a little intimidated to sand my car

Originally Posted by hatrickstu
if you would like to cut your correction time in half, stop using optimum and go pick up some megiuars 105 and 205
I was also using DA..so I think that facotired in there too. I had some other meguiars stuff but wanted to try something new..think I found the optimum stuff from your detail how-to. So meguiars 105 and 205 is more abrasive then optimum? I didn't have alot of heavy duty stuff. Maybe ill pick some up for next time though. See the results. thanks.

Originally Posted by JoshuaVnyrd1817
14 hours is a long ting to wheel one car. We usually can wet sand and wheel an entire car fresh out of paint in 4-5 hours. That's a shop though, I know I'd take a little longer at home too.

Either way, good job.
I was doing a total running time with frequent brakes when I first started. That thing virbrated my hand numb a few times..was stopping every 20 min or so. Got used to it after a while though and it sped up. I would put total work time probably around 11-12 hours including doing the interior and waiting for the sealant to dry (which was an hour). I took my time doing my first one to see how the work was coming out .

Originally Posted by Permafried-
So was it nerve wracking using a buffer on your car for the first time? Mine's sitting in a box in my garage waiting for Spring (just doing swirl removal correction this time around) and I have visions of it slipping out of my hand, kinda like Wayne's World when he dragged the air gun down the side of the car .
After watching alot of videos and reading info..not so much. I wasn't worried about burining my paint from being in 1 spot too long..but I was worried about the condition of the paint before I had bought the car..if I was working the polish and compound enough/correctly...still dont know if I want to try to wet sand though..

thanks for the feedback
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Old Feb 1, 2010 | 03:15 PM
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looks like your car was burnt, what happened?
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Old Feb 1, 2010 | 03:27 PM
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We use 3M's Perfect It 3 stage compound kit. With Makita orbital sanders that can turn upwards of 8,000RPM's. When you mix those two together, you can burn an edge in seconds, one pass and done.

Every product cuts different, every sanders' speed is different, every pad is different. A lot of factors go into it.

3M is what a lot of the higher up shops use. Look into it, cost's around $200/car but the results are night and day.
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Old Feb 1, 2010 | 04:14 PM
  #23  
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From: Parrish, FL
Originally Posted by kretty
looks like your car was burnt, what happened?
its not burn makes. It fingerprint dust from when they were checking fingerprints on my car
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Old Feb 1, 2010 | 10:21 PM
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From: Ar-kan-sas
Originally Posted by 07MetallicSC
if he was lowered you wouldnt see the wheel wells

came out nice man, i got fresh paint on my car and it looks the same, im afraid to wash it then ill get light marks on it, wish i knew how to do what you did to my car
yes you would.

Originally Posted by JoshuaVnyrd1817
Just an orbital wheel, buffing pads, and cutter.

14 hours is a long ting to wheel one car. We usually can wet sand and wheel an entire car fresh out of paint in 4-5 hours. That's a shop though, I know I'd take a little longer at home too.

Either way, good job.
Originally Posted by JoshuaVnyrd1817
Just some of my advice. Always have the pad level on the car. Watch your edges. Never stay in one spot for over a second.

If you burn through anywhere you will have to spot paint.

Just my 2 cents. I've burned through so many cars before and its just alot of practice. Just don't burn anywhere. lol. Good luck.
thats why you can get a car done in 4-5 hours, you are using a MUCH faster (and riskier) process. im sure you knew that already though

Originally Posted by Rydis
I was also using DA..so I think that facotired in there too. I had some other meguiars stuff but wanted to try something new..think I found the optimum stuff from your detail how-to. So meguiars 105 and 205 is more abrasive then optimum? I didn't have alot of heavy duty stuff. Maybe ill pick some up for next time though. See the results. thanks.
i know what you are using, its what i use. thus, why im suggesting those products. m105 and m205 are "more abrasive" than the equal level optimum products, but they do way more work and leave way less micromarring. im telling you man, save your time and do it.

Last edited by hatrickstu; Feb 1, 2010 at 10:21 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
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Old Feb 1, 2010 | 10:31 PM
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From: NO.VA
looks good for first time !
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