The MP5T
07-05-2010, 10:24 PM
#252
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Thanks, I have always lowered the windows to drive during the day, and never had any problem with the car parked. I suppose it's useless to give a static ticket for tint if the car is parked.
As you can see, there is almost no visible effect from the inside.
As you can see, there is almost no visible effect from the inside.
07-09-2010, 07:36 PM
#257
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Swapped the ADM for the EDM/JDM Hatchback Tail Lights.
They are very visible and I love how they look..
ORIGINAL
UPDATED
Here is a $ LOONIE on the Stock Bumper and the JDM Bumper. It is 6" Shorter at least. I can
t wait to see it on the car.
Original
6" Shorter
They are very visible and I love how they look..
ORIGINAL
UPDATED
Here is a $ LOONIE on the Stock Bumper and the JDM Bumper. It is 6" Shorter at least. I can
t wait to see it on the car.
Original
6" Shorter
07-09-2010, 11:14 PM
#260
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Much..
12-31-2010, 03:11 AM
#268
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So I am in Afghanistan but here is an Update... Sorry it will be hard to make sense of because it is actually 10 Posts that have been CTRL+C CTRL+V...
-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-
Parts for the spring...
6x Solid State Relay SSR 5-220V DC, 40A + Heat Sink (Electric Water Pump, Fal Cooling Fan, Fuel Pump, Master Relay for Haltech, HID Headlights, Spare)
10x 6 Position 35A 600V Terminal Block with Clear Cover
8x 12 Position 35A 600V Terminal Block with Clear Cover
(Looks like this but wider with more terminals)
Rewiring the monster, I tried not to rush when it was all installed the first time, but it's really hard to work on and makes no sense.
The entire dash will be removed so that I have full access to the firewall...
100ft Red 14ga
100ft Red 18ga
25ft Red 10 ga (Electric Water Pump)
100ft Black 14ga
100ft Black 18ga
25ft Black 10 ga (Electric Water Pump)
50ft Yellow 14ga
50ft Yellow 18ga
50ft Blue 14ga
50ft Blue 18ga
50ft White 14ga
50ft White 18ga
50ft Orange 18ga
50ft Brown 18ga
50ft Pink 18ga
50ft Green 18ga
14" Disk
8 Piston Caliper
Today I picked up a couple hundred dollars in Russell Fittings and Stainless Steel Braided hoses ranging from 1/4 Inch to 1.25 Inch.
This will make up the Electric Cooling system in MP5T.
The pump will be mounted after the engine, but will pump reverse (Down from the Head to the Block)
The benefits are well documented, the only negatives are that it is difficult to remove air from the system unless a surge tank is added and various hoses are run to allow the air at the top to be replaced with coolant.
The rad cap on the radiator will be removed and replaced with an aluminum plate TIG welded in place.
A 28 Ounce surge tank with a 25 PSI cap will replace the OEM located rad cap.
The top and bottom of the Radiator already have AN6 and AN8 provisions for such a design. They let air leave the top of the rad to the surge tank where it is vented out and replaced with Draw In Coolant from a reservoir.
The system is loosely based off of most VW and Porsche systems, where the reservoir is where the cap is..
The Mezire 45 Gal/Min Electric pump will be mounted inside the firewall and will draw coolant from the top driver side of the radiator (thus why it is imperative that there is no air there..) and force it into the top of the motor with an AN16 SS Hose.
The coolant Temp sensor will have to be moved to the opposite side of the motor.
The Stock water pump (Belt Driven) is being removed and replaced with a 1/2 Inch Aluminum block plate, thus freeing up more HP to drive the transmission. The Coolant sensor will sit in this plate to give an accurate reading.
The Haltech in conjunction with two solid state relays will drive the Electric Pump and Electric Fan on a variable duty cycle by pulsing the power.
There is NO MECHANICAL THERMOSTAT in this system to regulate the temperature. The Haltech is now the thermostat.
Eg.
Below 50 DegC, the pump will run 5% and the Fan will be off.
Below 60 DegC the pump will run 5% and the Fan will be off.
Below 70 DegC the pump will run 5% and the fan will be off.
Below 80 DegC the pump will run 10% and the fan will be off.
Below 90 DegC the pump will run 15% and he fan will run 10%.
Below 100 DegC the pump will run 20% and the fan will run 15%.
Above 100 DegC (Target Operating Temp) the pump will gradually run to 50% and the fan will gradually run to 75% to hold below 105 DegC
Above 108 DegC (Over Target) the Pump and fan will run 75%.
Above 115 DegC (Well Over Target) the pump will run 80% and the fan will be 100%
There should never be a reason to run the pump over 50%, it is intended for use on Supercharged V8 Monsters 45 Gal/Min.
Note at 100 to 105 the pump will be totally aggressive. I believe that I will literally see the pump duty cycle on the laptop rage between 20 and 50 as the temp goes up and down by 2 Degrees. If the pump alone is not able to remove heat (Stuck In Traffic) then the fan becomes much more active as well.
A manual override will put both pump and fan at 100% on a switch, which is good for problems, or as you are approaching the house to kill engine temps before parking, or kill engine temps when staging.
The entire system is focused on freeing up HP and making the cooling system more effective at holding a solid operating temperature.
I need this so that I can tune the car for one temperature and have it hold there.
The Protege uses a VR sensor on 4 corners for Speed and ABS.
Aftermarket ECUs need a Hall Effect Signal and cant operate on the weak signal of a VR sensor.
I am going to use "Clutch Speed Sensor Kit"
PCS - Powertrain Control Solutions - Data Logging Sensors & Accessories
Road Speed Sensor Hall Effect solution for MP5T.
On the driveshafts where it meets the Transmission there is a Cylindrical Attachment that is the Constant Velocity joint.
My plan is to drill the tiny rare earth 1/4" magnet into this part and mount a Hall Effect sensor on Both Sides of the transmission.
The calibration process is very simple, you tell the Haltech how much distance is traveled for each pulse.
You also tell the Haltech what the Gear Ratios are and it will automatically look at the Ratio between RPM/SPEED and display what gear you are in (When Moving). If the ratio does not make sense to the Haltech, It will assume that you have the clutch depressed and will display a flashing "N" in the gear display on the IQ3.
The Haltech will register Clutch Slip as well as Single Wheel spin if it has both sides logged.
I will be able to use the Gear Indicator and log in greater detail.
The magnet is only a 1/4" Cylinder that is 6mm Tall. The kit comes with a cobalt drill that is sized to match the magnets tight fit. It has to be pressed in or tapped in with a rubber hammer. They recommend that Epoxy (High Temp) be used to hold the magnet in place. There are several spare magnets in the kit so if the improbable happens, it can be replaced.
I believe that the pulling force that the magnet will see from road speed conditions will be quite low due to the size of the drive shaft and the small mass of the magnet.
In the picture of the driveshaft, on the left side is where it would go into the transmission. That CV joint is where the 3mm deep hole would be drilled to mount the magnet. The Sensor comes with several brackets to aid in mounting the sensor in the right geometry and distance from the sensor. I plan to mount the bracket on the aluminum transmission case just over the driveshaft.
OMFG This is AWESOME!
Here is a graph showing how I think they might work as a Thermostat..
So the MP5T plan for the spring just got a bit better.
I am planning to get a set of PAR Straight Cut Gears for the MP5T
The stock gear ratios in the protege are truly too low for the engine that I have.
3000 RPM is like 105 ish Km/h
4000 RPM is like 125 ish Km/h
and with a stock red line of 6500. and power falling off around 6000, you see that to do any sort of long distance driving at any slightly higher than legal speed is truly just painful. The engine is turning too fast for nothing with no need to downshift, just plant the gas to the floor and your GONE, then you are begging for 6th gear.
The research now is just looking at a taller 5th gear, but the problem with that is that the 4th is very short, so downshifting from 5th will be a mis match, shooting the tach through the top.
The next step is looking at a taller final drive which would bring the entire range taller, and then adding a slightly taller 5th.
I have updated the plan.
With the PAR gears, like the middle, the car would accelerate to 160 Km/h in 3rd gear and on to well over 270Km/h before I believe it will be held by wind resistance. The gears are $4300 plus a new LSD so I want to get the ratios correct.
Photoshop Stuff.
Decided to vector a picture of the car..
The actual picture is 50+Mb in size but I have reduced it here.
It's been printed at work 36x50 Inches.
-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-
Parts for the spring...
6x Solid State Relay SSR 5-220V DC, 40A + Heat Sink (Electric Water Pump, Fal Cooling Fan, Fuel Pump, Master Relay for Haltech, HID Headlights, Spare)
10x 6 Position 35A 600V Terminal Block with Clear Cover
8x 12 Position 35A 600V Terminal Block with Clear Cover
(Looks like this but wider with more terminals)
Rewiring the monster, I tried not to rush when it was all installed the first time, but it's really hard to work on and makes no sense.
The entire dash will be removed so that I have full access to the firewall...
100ft Red 14ga
100ft Red 18ga
25ft Red 10 ga (Electric Water Pump)
100ft Black 14ga
100ft Black 18ga
25ft Black 10 ga (Electric Water Pump)
50ft Yellow 14ga
50ft Yellow 18ga
50ft Blue 14ga
50ft Blue 18ga
50ft White 14ga
50ft White 18ga
50ft Orange 18ga
50ft Brown 18ga
50ft Pink 18ga
50ft Green 18ga
14" Disk
8 Piston Caliper
Today I picked up a couple hundred dollars in Russell Fittings and Stainless Steel Braided hoses ranging from 1/4 Inch to 1.25 Inch.
This will make up the Electric Cooling system in MP5T.
The pump will be mounted after the engine, but will pump reverse (Down from the Head to the Block)
The benefits are well documented, the only negatives are that it is difficult to remove air from the system unless a surge tank is added and various hoses are run to allow the air at the top to be replaced with coolant.
The rad cap on the radiator will be removed and replaced with an aluminum plate TIG welded in place.
A 28 Ounce surge tank with a 25 PSI cap will replace the OEM located rad cap.
The top and bottom of the Radiator already have AN6 and AN8 provisions for such a design. They let air leave the top of the rad to the surge tank where it is vented out and replaced with Draw In Coolant from a reservoir.
The system is loosely based off of most VW and Porsche systems, where the reservoir is where the cap is..
The Mezire 45 Gal/Min Electric pump will be mounted inside the firewall and will draw coolant from the top driver side of the radiator (thus why it is imperative that there is no air there..) and force it into the top of the motor with an AN16 SS Hose.
The coolant Temp sensor will have to be moved to the opposite side of the motor.
The Stock water pump (Belt Driven) is being removed and replaced with a 1/2 Inch Aluminum block plate, thus freeing up more HP to drive the transmission. The Coolant sensor will sit in this plate to give an accurate reading.
The Haltech in conjunction with two solid state relays will drive the Electric Pump and Electric Fan on a variable duty cycle by pulsing the power.
There is NO MECHANICAL THERMOSTAT in this system to regulate the temperature. The Haltech is now the thermostat.
Eg.
Below 50 DegC, the pump will run 5% and the Fan will be off.
Below 60 DegC the pump will run 5% and the Fan will be off.
Below 70 DegC the pump will run 5% and the fan will be off.
Below 80 DegC the pump will run 10% and the fan will be off.
Below 90 DegC the pump will run 15% and he fan will run 10%.
Below 100 DegC the pump will run 20% and the fan will run 15%.
Above 100 DegC (Target Operating Temp) the pump will gradually run to 50% and the fan will gradually run to 75% to hold below 105 DegC
Above 108 DegC (Over Target) the Pump and fan will run 75%.
Above 115 DegC (Well Over Target) the pump will run 80% and the fan will be 100%
There should never be a reason to run the pump over 50%, it is intended for use on Supercharged V8 Monsters 45 Gal/Min.
Note at 100 to 105 the pump will be totally aggressive. I believe that I will literally see the pump duty cycle on the laptop rage between 20 and 50 as the temp goes up and down by 2 Degrees. If the pump alone is not able to remove heat (Stuck In Traffic) then the fan becomes much more active as well.
A manual override will put both pump and fan at 100% on a switch, which is good for problems, or as you are approaching the house to kill engine temps before parking, or kill engine temps when staging.
The entire system is focused on freeing up HP and making the cooling system more effective at holding a solid operating temperature.
I need this so that I can tune the car for one temperature and have it hold there.
The Protege uses a VR sensor on 4 corners for Speed and ABS.
Aftermarket ECUs need a Hall Effect Signal and cant operate on the weak signal of a VR sensor.
I am going to use "Clutch Speed Sensor Kit"
PCS - Powertrain Control Solutions - Data Logging Sensors & Accessories
Road Speed Sensor Hall Effect solution for MP5T.
On the driveshafts where it meets the Transmission there is a Cylindrical Attachment that is the Constant Velocity joint.
My plan is to drill the tiny rare earth 1/4" magnet into this part and mount a Hall Effect sensor on Both Sides of the transmission.
The calibration process is very simple, you tell the Haltech how much distance is traveled for each pulse.
You also tell the Haltech what the Gear Ratios are and it will automatically look at the Ratio between RPM/SPEED and display what gear you are in (When Moving). If the ratio does not make sense to the Haltech, It will assume that you have the clutch depressed and will display a flashing "N" in the gear display on the IQ3.
The Haltech will register Clutch Slip as well as Single Wheel spin if it has both sides logged.
I will be able to use the Gear Indicator and log in greater detail.
The magnet is only a 1/4" Cylinder that is 6mm Tall. The kit comes with a cobalt drill that is sized to match the magnets tight fit. It has to be pressed in or tapped in with a rubber hammer. They recommend that Epoxy (High Temp) be used to hold the magnet in place. There are several spare magnets in the kit so if the improbable happens, it can be replaced.
I believe that the pulling force that the magnet will see from road speed conditions will be quite low due to the size of the drive shaft and the small mass of the magnet.
In the picture of the driveshaft, on the left side is where it would go into the transmission. That CV joint is where the 3mm deep hole would be drilled to mount the magnet. The Sensor comes with several brackets to aid in mounting the sensor in the right geometry and distance from the sensor. I plan to mount the bracket on the aluminum transmission case just over the driveshaft.
OMFG This is AWESOME!
Brian,
No problem on your designed Digital Pulse Output request. Engineering's response below:
Dear Eric,
I have a created an issue for the Sport to add Coolant and Air Temperature to the axis selection of the Generic Duty Output Table. Issue #5028
This will allow a 32 x 32 table to be available for your customer.
I will try and have this done for v1.09, but there is a good chance it will not get completed until v1.10.
There is still a large amount of work we still have to do for v1.09 and time is running out.
Kind regards,
Nathan Clark
R&D Manager
-Eric Gash
Haltech USA
No problem on your designed Digital Pulse Output request. Engineering's response below:
Dear Eric,
I have a created an issue for the Sport to add Coolant and Air Temperature to the axis selection of the Generic Duty Output Table. Issue #5028
This will allow a 32 x 32 table to be available for your customer.
I will try and have this done for v1.09, but there is a good chance it will not get completed until v1.10.
There is still a large amount of work we still have to do for v1.09 and time is running out.
Kind regards,
Nathan Clark
R&D Manager
-Eric Gash
Haltech USA
So the MP5T plan for the spring just got a bit better.
I am planning to get a set of PAR Straight Cut Gears for the MP5T
The stock gear ratios in the protege are truly too low for the engine that I have.
3000 RPM is like 105 ish Km/h
4000 RPM is like 125 ish Km/h
and with a stock red line of 6500. and power falling off around 6000, you see that to do any sort of long distance driving at any slightly higher than legal speed is truly just painful. The engine is turning too fast for nothing with no need to downshift, just plant the gas to the floor and your GONE, then you are begging for 6th gear.
The research now is just looking at a taller 5th gear, but the problem with that is that the 4th is very short, so downshifting from 5th will be a mis match, shooting the tach through the top.
The next step is looking at a taller final drive which would bring the entire range taller, and then adding a slightly taller 5th.
I have updated the plan.
With the PAR gears, like the middle, the car would accelerate to 160 Km/h in 3rd gear and on to well over 270Km/h before I believe it will be held by wind resistance. The gears are $4300 plus a new LSD so I want to get the ratios correct.
Photoshop Stuff.
Decided to vector a picture of the car..
The actual picture is 50+Mb in size but I have reduced it here.
It's been printed at work 36x50 Inches.
12-31-2010, 03:13 AM
#269
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Thread Starter
Join Date: 11-14-05
Location: www.mp5t.com
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It is not a Show Car.
If it was I would have a 5000Lb Stereo and 1 Psi Turbo.
I have only entered 2 Car Shows, and won my class in both, plus won "Best Engine" or "Best Performance"
The car weighs only 2280Lbs, which is -600Lbs than Stock and makes 4x More HP than Stock.
That coupled with a 3.5:1 final drive that is gear limited at 310 Km/h... you see what I am getting at.
I am not in the business of gay "Show Cars"... I put the money into Go Fast parts and leave the rest in the dumpster where they belong.
So an Update on the charging system.
Stock P5, well stock almost anything, requires the ECU to operate modern alternators. The regulator function is in the ECU.
The solution was a 1991 626 Alternator, it has an internal regulator and the same case as the 3rd Gen Protege alternator.
This would let you physically remove the ECU 100% and run off the standalone.
It worked, however I have gone through several alternators which is costly. I also noticed that the alternator is supposed to be an 80 Amp. But If my lights were on and the fan kicked in, the voltage would go from 14.4 to 13.5 and then drop.
I am adding an electric water pump which will be on all of the time. I needed a final solution that was reliable and easy to replace.
Search for "One Wire Alternator"
It is an older very reliable solution. It automatically activates the field once it goes above 200 RPM. The only negative is that it is a non standard size.
I have removed all pulleys including the water pump so I have the entire front and back of the engine free. The plan is to attach the alternator to the front of the motor simply due to ease of access.
The bracket will be easy to fabricate and the Ford style alternator that I have selected has been used for the past 24 years. Should be an Off The Shelf part for years to come.
They are under $120.00 and range from 100Amps to 200Amps.
Here is a shot of the $200.00 LSD I got on E-Bay
Only thing is the Speedo gear is pooched but is being removed and not used.
Not bad at all, still has the Hypoid on it.
-=-=-=
So A Consolidated list of the work being done in the spring.
- Engine: Block and Head are being Tanked. Crank removed and balanced to the new Arias Ceramic& Teflon coated 8.5:1 Pistons and Pauter forged Rods. The Cylinders are being resurfaced to the size of the slight 0.2 overbore pistons. Clevite Bearings. ARP Main Studs. Cometic Head Gasket. New Valve seals, Resurface contact point for valve seat.
- Transmission: Full removal of contents of a second transmission. A Full set of straight cut PAR Engineering gears. Double Syncros. Gear ratios extended such that new 1st gear is as tall as stock 2nd, New 2nd is as tall as stock 3rd... etc.... giving a 5th gear top speed of 310 Km/h at 7000 RPM. 3.5:1 final drive, Quaife Helical LSD. ARP Bolts. SPEC Stage 3+ Solid Clutch & Pressure Plate 425Ft/Lb Clamp. Spec 6.8Lb Flywheel. ARP Flywheel Bolts. ShaftMaster Drive shafts. New Front Bearings, New Poly_U bushings on hubs. SS Clutch Lines, New Clutch Master, Clutch Servo.
- Brakes: 14" K-SPORT 8 Piston Brakes (1.28 Cm Clearance inside an 18" Rim). New Brake Master, SS Lines. MS6 Rear Big Brake Conversion
- Electrical: Complete re installation of wiring with Solid State Relays and custom Fuse Panel. Re-Location of 11Lb Braile Battery inside the dash behind the firewall closest to the starter. Custom bracket for 110 Amp "Tuff Stuff" One wire Ford alternator on front of engine.
Install Variable Electric Pump Control and Variable Electric Cooling Fan Control.
- Water Cooling: Install Mezire 45 Gal/m Electric water pump with Russel Fitting on Stainless Braided Quick disconnect hoses. Remove stock mechanical water pump and replace with a blocking plate. Install a Coolant remote container, and coolant overflow.
- Suspension: Remove TIEN SS Suspension (160,000Km) and install new K-SPORT Coilovers. Replace all Bushings in rear AWR 21mm Bar, and rear suspension.
- Fuel Delivery: New Aeromotive Haltech controlled Electronic Fuel Pressure Regulator (65 PSI under boost, 40 at idle).
- Sensors: Hall Effect Shaft Speed sensors on both front drive shafts.
- Body: Paint Front and Rear Bumpers from a JDM SPORT-20 and Install. Remove Stickers from running boards and repaint. Repaint Both A-Pillars.
- Exhaust: Reposition APEX-i N1 6" shorter due to the JDM bumper being 6" shorter.
- Ignition: AEM CDI Twin Fire Direct Coil On Plug. System Will fire several sparks at once.
All this should be a 15 Grand "Freshen Up" on MP5T to start up Spring 2011.
I will point out... None of that money is wasted on stupid stereo, lights or other **** that does not make the car move.
**** It.
I read the CT-Net review and it's the ******* BOMB..
E-Bay, $240.00 Free Shipping from Montreal...
Done... Cant wait for Lapping Day...
If it was I would have a 5000Lb Stereo and 1 Psi Turbo.
I have only entered 2 Car Shows, and won my class in both, plus won "Best Engine" or "Best Performance"
The car weighs only 2280Lbs, which is -600Lbs than Stock and makes 4x More HP than Stock.
That coupled with a 3.5:1 final drive that is gear limited at 310 Km/h... you see what I am getting at.
I am not in the business of gay "Show Cars"... I put the money into Go Fast parts and leave the rest in the dumpster where they belong.
So an Update on the charging system.
Stock P5, well stock almost anything, requires the ECU to operate modern alternators. The regulator function is in the ECU.
The solution was a 1991 626 Alternator, it has an internal regulator and the same case as the 3rd Gen Protege alternator.
This would let you physically remove the ECU 100% and run off the standalone.
It worked, however I have gone through several alternators which is costly. I also noticed that the alternator is supposed to be an 80 Amp. But If my lights were on and the fan kicked in, the voltage would go from 14.4 to 13.5 and then drop.
I am adding an electric water pump which will be on all of the time. I needed a final solution that was reliable and easy to replace.
Search for "One Wire Alternator"
It is an older very reliable solution. It automatically activates the field once it goes above 200 RPM. The only negative is that it is a non standard size.
I have removed all pulleys including the water pump so I have the entire front and back of the engine free. The plan is to attach the alternator to the front of the motor simply due to ease of access.
The bracket will be easy to fabricate and the Ford style alternator that I have selected has been used for the past 24 years. Should be an Off The Shelf part for years to come.
They are under $120.00 and range from 100Amps to 200Amps.
Here is a shot of the $200.00 LSD I got on E-Bay
Only thing is the Speedo gear is pooched but is being removed and not used.
Not bad at all, still has the Hypoid on it.
-=-=-=
So A Consolidated list of the work being done in the spring.
- Engine: Block and Head are being Tanked. Crank removed and balanced to the new Arias Ceramic& Teflon coated 8.5:1 Pistons and Pauter forged Rods. The Cylinders are being resurfaced to the size of the slight 0.2 overbore pistons. Clevite Bearings. ARP Main Studs. Cometic Head Gasket. New Valve seals, Resurface contact point for valve seat.
- Transmission: Full removal of contents of a second transmission. A Full set of straight cut PAR Engineering gears. Double Syncros. Gear ratios extended such that new 1st gear is as tall as stock 2nd, New 2nd is as tall as stock 3rd... etc.... giving a 5th gear top speed of 310 Km/h at 7000 RPM. 3.5:1 final drive, Quaife Helical LSD. ARP Bolts. SPEC Stage 3+ Solid Clutch & Pressure Plate 425Ft/Lb Clamp. Spec 6.8Lb Flywheel. ARP Flywheel Bolts. ShaftMaster Drive shafts. New Front Bearings, New Poly_U bushings on hubs. SS Clutch Lines, New Clutch Master, Clutch Servo.
- Brakes: 14" K-SPORT 8 Piston Brakes (1.28 Cm Clearance inside an 18" Rim). New Brake Master, SS Lines. MS6 Rear Big Brake Conversion
- Electrical: Complete re installation of wiring with Solid State Relays and custom Fuse Panel. Re-Location of 11Lb Braile Battery inside the dash behind the firewall closest to the starter. Custom bracket for 110 Amp "Tuff Stuff" One wire Ford alternator on front of engine.
Install Variable Electric Pump Control and Variable Electric Cooling Fan Control.
- Water Cooling: Install Mezire 45 Gal/m Electric water pump with Russel Fitting on Stainless Braided Quick disconnect hoses. Remove stock mechanical water pump and replace with a blocking plate. Install a Coolant remote container, and coolant overflow.
- Suspension: Remove TIEN SS Suspension (160,000Km) and install new K-SPORT Coilovers. Replace all Bushings in rear AWR 21mm Bar, and rear suspension.
- Fuel Delivery: New Aeromotive Haltech controlled Electronic Fuel Pressure Regulator (65 PSI under boost, 40 at idle).
- Sensors: Hall Effect Shaft Speed sensors on both front drive shafts.
- Body: Paint Front and Rear Bumpers from a JDM SPORT-20 and Install. Remove Stickers from running boards and repaint. Repaint Both A-Pillars.
- Exhaust: Reposition APEX-i N1 6" shorter due to the JDM bumper being 6" shorter.
- Ignition: AEM CDI Twin Fire Direct Coil On Plug. System Will fire several sparks at once.
All this should be a 15 Grand "Freshen Up" on MP5T to start up Spring 2011.
I will point out... None of that money is wasted on stupid stereo, lights or other **** that does not make the car move.
**** It.
I read the CT-Net review and it's the ******* BOMB..
E-Bay, $240.00 Free Shipping from Montreal...
Done... Cant wait for Lapping Day...
12-31-2010, 03:15 AM
#270
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: 11-14-05
Location: www.mp5t.com
Posts: 4,425
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Here is a link to a spreadsheet detailing the results of the research for the PAR Gears. (Because I Cant Make Attachments)
I wanted to get this perfect because
1. They are F-ing Expensive
2. It can greatly and negatively alter the performance/behavior of the car.
I will post now to reduce the confusion.. I am not worried in the least about making the gears taller and thus on paper making the car technically accelerate slower. I have researched at great length and I believe that any negative will be totally killed by the fact that I can be in a lower gear much much longer. Torque will overcome all, plus the car is still limited to traction, which will be dealt with by wide tires and a Quaife.
MP5T - Page 2 - Mazdaspeed Forums
This might make it easier to see what is going on with the ratios as well.
I wanted to get this perfect because
1. They are F-ing Expensive
2. It can greatly and negatively alter the performance/behavior of the car.
I will post now to reduce the confusion.. I am not worried in the least about making the gears taller and thus on paper making the car technically accelerate slower. I have researched at great length and I believe that any negative will be totally killed by the fact that I can be in a lower gear much much longer. Torque will overcome all, plus the car is still limited to traction, which will be dealt with by wide tires and a Quaife.
MP5T - Page 2 - Mazdaspeed Forums
This might make it easier to see what is going on with the ratios as well.
12-31-2010, 07:20 AM
#271
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Join Date: 10-06-05
Location: Seneca, South Carolina
Posts: 10,944
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This is what building a car is all about. I've been following you around for several years. You've been one of the very few that doesn't trade or sell their car off. I hope that I can get my cobalt to a level like yours at some point.
12-31-2010, 07:44 AM
#272
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I'm happy that you have seen the point of the car. I am honestly too happy with it and I have put too much work into it to just throw it away on a trade in.
You don't have to think too hard to know what it must be like to drive this car.
With the new transmission and brakes, it's going to be SICK this spring.
You don't have to think too hard to know what it must be like to drive this car.
With the new transmission and brakes, it's going to be SICK this spring.
12-31-2010, 11:46 AM
#273
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Holy **** you're still around? Nice to see you kept at it
This
This
12-31-2010, 02:10 PM
#274
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Yeah Still around.. It is really easy to tune the car now that it is so completely modified.
I have finally biult a complete package that will handle 410WHP from piston to tire daily!
I have finally biult a complete package that will handle 410WHP from piston to tire daily!
01-01-2011, 11:04 AM
#275
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So I did a Photoshop of the 14" Disks K-Sport BBK in the front and 13" in the rear.. I think it's going to look ******* SICK in the spring. I'm really excited.
