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New Turbo Set-Up...

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Old 07-22-2010, 05:43 PM
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My new new clamp is here now... I gotta put that on... and then we're gonna find this boost leak.

Then the shenanigans can begin.



Originally Posted by Karlen89
Lemme know when you get this ***** running. I need a ride in this o so badass turbo car.
Sounds like a plan.

Originally Posted by slvr 04 rl
i couldnt find a 3 inch pvc pipe cap to make mine and i was walking around and found this holder that fit perfect in the coupler...what ever works though. and just make sure the compressor you use has a regulator on it so you dont force to much air into it.
I was just gonna have the wife watch the boost gauge. Its a Mechanical gauge... so it'll work with the motor off.
Old 07-22-2010, 06:26 PM
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Originally Posted by USMCFieldMP
When you say "bypass"... do you mean the Wastegate? If so, no... I didn't check it. It is a brand new TiAl 38mm though... and you can definitely here when it opens up.

I'm building a Vacuum Leak Checker today... so hopefully I can figure something out.
ya I meant wastgate I was distracted when I typed it.
Old 07-22-2010, 09:23 PM
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procharged gto silly boy... but no im having troubles finding the car i really want... i find one, then call, then come to find out it sold.... FML
Old 07-23-2010, 04:03 AM
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Did a pressure check of the whole system... only found one leak. I'm pretty sure its one of my injectors seals... and I'm pretty sure I've had it for a while. Iono. I was using a small tank and could only get 10psi... but that's the only leak I heard. I wanna get it on a bigger compressor later on, if I can.

Didn't really play with the car too much after that. Fooling around, I managed to hit full boost at 4k in 4th earlier today. Iono what's up with the thing. I'm going to take off the Compressor Cover tomorrow and check the O-Ring. If I brake boost the thing at 3500... it'll build 10-15psi... and then shoot to 20 as soon as I let off the brake. I don't know what its deal is.

I'm gonna do a Compression Check on Monday. We'll see how that turns out.
Old 07-23-2010, 03:41 PM
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easy way to find a vaccume leak.... get TB cleaner, start spraying it, and the engine will rev up when it gets in the system, then you know where the leak is
Old 07-23-2010, 09:53 PM
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Easier, less mess, and less expensive to just use a Boost Leak Checker and some air.
Old 07-23-2010, 11:18 PM
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no mess actually... evaporation... works like a charm
Old 07-24-2010, 12:07 AM
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This didn't turn out as my previous years attempts. I couldn't get the fkn camera to focus on the dash properly.


I call this one... B00000000000SSSSTTTT!!!
Old 07-24-2010, 03:31 AM
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haha yours looks better than mine. did you figure out what the problem is?
Old 07-24-2010, 03:55 AM
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Nope. Compression Check on Monday. We should have the tool by then.
Old 07-24-2010, 11:04 AM
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come and get one... i have one for saleee
Old 07-24-2010, 11:18 AM
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Boost leak tester looks just like mine lol
Old 07-24-2010, 03:50 PM
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Originally Posted by Stiner
Boost leak tester looks just like mine lol
Ha, easy cheesy that way.
Old 07-26-2010, 02:44 AM
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Somewhere along the line... I fixed something. 3rd gear is hitting full boost at 4250... and 4th at 4000. That's still later than it should be hitting... but that's better than 5000 and 4600.

I've picked up a noticeable amount of HP in the last week with whatever it is that I fixed. Much harder to keep the power to the ground in 2nd... and the shifts are coming much faster in 3rd and 4th gears. Of course... I do all my testing at night. Turbo love the cool air.

- - - - -

There is still something not right though. The only difference in size between this turbo (Billet HP5557E - Ball Bearing) and my last one (SCM5031E - Journal Bearing)... is that the Compressor Inducer is 1mm larger (.047" larger) and the Exducer is 1mm smaller (.050" smaller). The turbines are basically the same size... but the 5557 has better Aerodynamics, iirc (same applies to the Compressor Wheel... better all around). Then factor in Ball Bearing + Billet wheel. Where's MY Profit?

The intercooler does have a bit more volume to fill:

-Old I/C: 18"x6"x3.5" (378 Cu/In)
-New I/C: 25" x 7" x 3" (525 Cu/In)

...for a difference of 147 Cu/In. But the new piping more than makes up for that.

-Old Cold-side Set-Up: 339.4 Cu/In
-New Cold-side Set-up: 203.8 Cu/In
-Old Hot-side Set-up: 304.5 Cu/In
-New Hot-Side Set-up: 265.2 Cu/In

Old Piping Set-Up Total: 643.9 Cu/In
New Piping Set-up Total: 469 Cu/In

Difference of 174.9 Cu/In...

Now, I'm no master at Flow Dynamics... or Quantum Theory/Leaping... or anything like that. I'm just doing simple math to find out the volume of the Cube (I/C) and the Cylinder (Piping). And those numbers, obviously, aren't 100% accurate. In real life... there isn't that much volume to the I/C... because its not a solid cube of volume for the air to pass through. But the piping volume is fairly accurate... as I measured out the length of my piping. I might need to double check... but I'm pretty sure my numbers were accurate.
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