ZZP Stealth HE and Car Update in Shop
Thread Starter
Senior Member
iTrader: (7)
Joined: 06-12-11
Posts: 1,118
Likes: 12
From: Elk River, MN
Nothing wrong, but there are two things the app doesn't show LSJ's without some work. I got the IAT2's to work... Still looking to find a workout for KR...
E85, 2.7 M62, Phenolic, ZZP 3in CAI, Dual Pass, Pacesetter Header, Full 3in Header-back, Ported TB, Ported and Polished Intake Manifold.... Plenty else wouldn't effect anything here I don't think...
Now to note... I haven't fixed my problems yet of leaking hose and a old ass pump, but she works
Humidity at 90%, not raining, but heavy fog and kinda sprinkled through the day.
Outside Temp to car sensor: 41*F
Intake Air Temp(MAF): 42*F
Sitting IAT2's after 20min: 82*F
Cruising IAT2's: 60* slightly fluctuate +/-7ish
SO how about a pull??
Started at 60* from cruising>2nd gear 20mph
Top of 2nd: 83*
Top of 3rd: 103*
6k in 4th: 117*
RECOVERY: Got back down to about 80* very quickly... Took about 1/2 mile to get back down to cruising.
I ended the pull due to being dark and coming up on a hill. Will get some more pulls in and watch better.
*UPDATE PART 2*
I found out after driving a little more with my IAT2 gauge that my IC pump is bad... It's hardly flowing and is stopping once and a while...
Was on way to Wisconsin quickly realized my IAT2's were all over the damn place and on a 50* day it was running around 86*.... Pop hood find pump hardly running and then while cruising again I'd watch the IAT2's jump past 100 got out and found to fluid moving at all...
Can't update motor exhaust valves got smashed due to a defective Cloyes timing gear
Shop attempting to deal with Cloyes about the defective gear now... Otherw
Thanks,
Bratboy90
E85, 2.7 M62, Phenolic, ZZP 3in CAI, Dual Pass, Pacesetter Header, Full 3in Header-back, Ported TB, Ported and Polished Intake Manifold.... Plenty else wouldn't effect anything here I don't think...
Now to note... I haven't fixed my problems yet of leaking hose and a old ass pump, but she works
Humidity at 90%, not raining, but heavy fog and kinda sprinkled through the day.
Outside Temp to car sensor: 41*F
Intake Air Temp(MAF): 42*F
Sitting IAT2's after 20min: 82*F
Cruising IAT2's: 60* slightly fluctuate +/-7ish
SO how about a pull??
Started at 60* from cruising>2nd gear 20mph
Top of 2nd: 83*
Top of 3rd: 103*
6k in 4th: 117*
RECOVERY: Got back down to about 80* very quickly... Took about 1/2 mile to get back down to cruising.
I ended the pull due to being dark and coming up on a hill. Will get some more pulls in and watch better.
*UPDATE PART 2*
I found out after driving a little more with my IAT2 gauge that my IC pump is bad... It's hardly flowing and is stopping once and a while...
Was on way to Wisconsin quickly realized my IAT2's were all over the damn place and on a 50* day it was running around 86*.... Pop hood find pump hardly running and then while cruising again I'd watch the IAT2's jump past 100 got out and found to fluid moving at all...
Can't update motor exhaust valves got smashed due to a defective Cloyes timing gear
Shop attempting to deal with Cloyes about the defective gear now... Otherw
Thanks,
Bratboy90
Last edited by bratboy90; Dec 5, 2012 at 05:21 PM.
Thread Starter
Senior Member
iTrader: (7)
Joined: 06-12-11
Posts: 1,118
Likes: 12
From: Elk River, MN
Not knocking anyone here or the product but putting my 2 cents. I never even had that much heat soak on my 2.5 in that kind of weather. My temps would start at 55-65 and never passed 100 going from 2nd-end of 3rd. It would take 2 back to back pulls to get to 120+ and recovery time was about 1/4-1/2 mile of cruising
Thread Starter
Senior Member
iTrader: (7)
Joined: 06-12-11
Posts: 1,118
Likes: 12
From: Elk River, MN
Not knocking anyone here or the product but putting my 2 cents. I never even had that much heat soak on my 2.5 in that kind of weather. My temps would start at 55-65 and never passed 100 going from 2nd-end of 3rd. It would take 2 back to back pulls to get to 120+ and recovery time was about 1/4-1/2 mile of cruising
I found out after driving a little more with my IAT2 gauge that my IC pump is bad... It's hardly flowing and is stopping once and a while...
Was on way to Wisconsin quickly realized my IAT2's were all over the damn place and on a 50* day it was running around 86*.... Pop hood find pump hardly running and then while cruising again I'd watch the IAT2's jump past 100 got out and found to fluid moving at all...
Can't update motor exhaust valves got smashed due to a defective Cloyes timing gear
Shop attempting to deal with Cloyes about the defective gear now... Otherwise I'm going to have to do a full build..
that is so sad OP I wish you all the best. I would be all over the shop that did the work if you had engine work done, and ask what torque specs they used on the chain tensioner guide bolts, and if they used the cloyes kit with new bolts and oilers etc.
I would doubt the chain let go, but its easy to say that sitting at the keyboard. The only other reason I see for chains failing is long term infrequent oil changes. I have seen Saabs strip the timing gears right out of the chain.
I am so sorry for your trouble. Good luck
I would doubt the chain let go, but its easy to say that sitting at the keyboard. The only other reason I see for chains failing is long term infrequent oil changes. I have seen Saabs strip the timing gears right out of the chain.
I am so sorry for your trouble. Good luck
Thread Starter
Senior Member
iTrader: (7)
Joined: 06-12-11
Posts: 1,118
Likes: 12
From: Elk River, MN
We're working on a fixing it. Was a full brand new Cloyes kit. The guides/keys on the timing gears snapped clear off... I was there everything was done right, just somehow either the bolt stretched or the gear was just defective to begin with... Sucks were talking to O'Reily/Cloyes about warrantying the damage for parts. Otherwise I'm preplanning finding replacement stuff.
Just gay ******* bad luck... Shitty ****. And on top of it I gotta buy a new IC pump. LOL FML
We're hoping that the damage is limited to rockers and valves. Being it was so low rpm I doubt the pistons are going to see much damage to warrant a full replacement of them too... Maybe port that head while it's off. LOL
Just gay ******* bad luck... Shitty ****. And on top of it I gotta buy a new IC pump. LOL FML
We're hoping that the damage is limited to rockers and valves. Being it was so low rpm I doubt the pistons are going to see much damage to warrant a full replacement of them too... Maybe port that head while it's off. LOL
Can you measure it up for me? Length x width x depth ect.
I am thinking about getting one for my SC Install, but it's on a Chevy HHR Panel.
I emailed ZZP asking for it's actual size and they ignored that and just said yeah sure it'll fit the HHR. Funny they Don't list it on site as fitting the HHR.
I want to make a cardboard mock up and run a Test Fit. BEFORE I order one up.
I'd like to use it if it fits without adding the option B tank, currently have a CXRacing one for my install and think this Stealth unit with help keep temps down better and hopefully install easier on the HHR.
Thanks appreciate it if you can measure yours up for me.
Nevermind, I see ZZP has Updated their info on the Stealth on the ZZP Website.
•Overall measurements of 26.5" x 17" x 2"
•Core measurements of 26" x 13.75" x 1.75"
Being as large as this puppy is, it should be alot more cooling than just the Ebay CXRacing one and a tiny "Option B" coolant tank ever would do.
At that size still gonna need to Trim up the front HHR bumper cover top and bottom to get it in there, but I think I could Squeeze it in somehow.
The HHR's engine bay is even tighter than the Cobalts add in I am an Automatic makes me even tighter.
The HHR Hood being so narrow up front don't help in front of the radiator and ac condenser either.
ZZP Stealth
Being It is 3x larger than stock, 70% larger than the Griffin, should give me pretty good cooling with the ZZP Dual Pass. I was never gonna run the OEM cobalt HE, just the small CXR one with the dual pass and Try finding a place under the hood and up high enough for the option b tank, no where to really put it under our hood.
NOT gonna eliminate my washer fluid tank to make one fit either. As a daily driver, local show car, Keeping my AC in good working order as well. Gotta have my AC! lol
We (HHR guys) just don't have any extra room under our hoods for that extra little tank, so I think my Best option to get the Most cooling I can get is buying the Biggest HE I can get and looks like the new ZZP Stealth is my best option in doing so.
I am thinking about getting one for my SC Install, but it's on a Chevy HHR Panel.
I emailed ZZP asking for it's actual size and they ignored that and just said yeah sure it'll fit the HHR. Funny they Don't list it on site as fitting the HHR.
I want to make a cardboard mock up and run a Test Fit. BEFORE I order one up.
I'd like to use it if it fits without adding the option B tank, currently have a CXRacing one for my install and think this Stealth unit with help keep temps down better and hopefully install easier on the HHR.
Thanks appreciate it if you can measure yours up for me.
Nevermind, I see ZZP has Updated their info on the Stealth on the ZZP Website.
•Overall measurements of 26.5" x 17" x 2"
•Core measurements of 26" x 13.75" x 1.75"
Being as large as this puppy is, it should be alot more cooling than just the Ebay CXRacing one and a tiny "Option B" coolant tank ever would do.
At that size still gonna need to Trim up the front HHR bumper cover top and bottom to get it in there, but I think I could Squeeze it in somehow.
The HHR's engine bay is even tighter than the Cobalts add in I am an Automatic makes me even tighter.
The HHR Hood being so narrow up front don't help in front of the radiator and ac condenser either.
ZZP Stealth
Being It is 3x larger than stock, 70% larger than the Griffin, should give me pretty good cooling with the ZZP Dual Pass. I was never gonna run the OEM cobalt HE, just the small CXR one with the dual pass and Try finding a place under the hood and up high enough for the option b tank, no where to really put it under our hood.
NOT gonna eliminate my washer fluid tank to make one fit either. As a daily driver, local show car, Keeping my AC in good working order as well. Gotta have my AC! lol
We (HHR guys) just don't have any extra room under our hoods for that extra little tank, so I think my Best option to get the Most cooling I can get is buying the Biggest HE I can get and looks like the new ZZP Stealth is my best option in doing so.
Last edited by HHR Panel Man; Dec 8, 2012 at 03:28 PM.
dont fool yourself. option b is an important part of the cooling system and is an essential part of what you need, based on my experience. As for the zzp stealth its a nicely made piece, will cool just as well as the more common fmic zzp already make, and so far the iat's quoted for the one install we know of herem support that....
some folks here and I am sad to say you appear to be one of them, dont understand what option B does. Providing "extra coolant" is not its purpose.
If you have laminova cores ,you have to keep air out of the cooling system. All engine cooling systems have a bleed line, running to a coolant reservoir (option B if you want to call it that) even your HHR. So you can have a radiator the size of the empire state building , if there is air in the coolant the laminova cores wont work effectively; the air is constantly entrained in the coolant in the LSJ Aftercooling system, its not something you can bleed out once and forget..
Mod'ing a car is not easy and clearly the HHR presents challenges that you are taking on, but my advice is find a way to run option B, try to run a standardLSJ s/c heat exchanger and dual pass and you would be much better off. And as the standard oem h/e sandwiches between the rad and the a.c and there are brackets made for that already, my guess is that part would be a lot easier for you. The option B can be in the nose of the car above the radiator shroud, looks like there is space there...its up to you. But what I described works,and would save you a lot of effort, time and money, and , bonus! work better.
If you have laminova cores ,you have to keep air out of the cooling system. All engine cooling systems have a bleed line, running to a coolant reservoir (option B if you want to call it that) even your HHR. So you can have a radiator the size of the empire state building , if there is air in the coolant the laminova cores wont work effectively; the air is constantly entrained in the coolant in the LSJ Aftercooling system, its not something you can bleed out once and forget..
Mod'ing a car is not easy and clearly the HHR presents challenges that you are taking on, but my advice is find a way to run option B, try to run a standardLSJ s/c heat exchanger and dual pass and you would be much better off. And as the standard oem h/e sandwiches between the rad and the a.c and there are brackets made for that already, my guess is that part would be a lot easier for you. The option B can be in the nose of the car above the radiator shroud, looks like there is space there...its up to you. But what I described works,and would save you a lot of effort, time and money, and , bonus! work better.
some folks here and I am sad to say you appear to be one of them, dont understand what option B does. Providing "extra coolant" is not its purpose.
If you have laminova cores ,you have to keep air out of the cooling system. All engine cooling systems have a bleed line, running to a coolant reservoir (option B if you want to call it that) even your HHR. So you can have a radiator the size of the empire state building , if there is air in the coolant the laminova cores wont work effectively; the air is constantly entrained in the coolant in the LSJ Aftercooling system, its not something you can bleed out once and forget..
Mod'ing a car is not easy and clearly the HHR presents challenges that you are taking on, but my advice is find a way to run option B, try to run a standardLSJ s/c heat exchanger and dual pass and you would be much better off. And as the standard oem h/e sandwiches between the rad and the a.c and there are brackets made for that already, my guess is that part would be a lot easier for you. The option B can be in the nose of the car above the radiator shroud, looks like there is space there...its up to you. But what I described works,and would save you a lot of effort, time and money, and , bonus! work better.
If you have laminova cores ,you have to keep air out of the cooling system. All engine cooling systems have a bleed line, running to a coolant reservoir (option B if you want to call it that) even your HHR. So you can have a radiator the size of the empire state building , if there is air in the coolant the laminova cores wont work effectively; the air is constantly entrained in the coolant in the LSJ Aftercooling system, its not something you can bleed out once and forget..
Mod'ing a car is not easy and clearly the HHR presents challenges that you are taking on, but my advice is find a way to run option B, try to run a standardLSJ s/c heat exchanger and dual pass and you would be much better off. And as the standard oem h/e sandwiches between the rad and the a.c and there are brackets made for that already, my guess is that part would be a lot easier for you. The option B can be in the nose of the car above the radiator shroud, looks like there is space there...its up to you. But what I described works,and would save you a lot of effort, time and money, and , bonus! work better.
The standard LSJ carries about the same as the CXRacing one I have, I believe they are about the same.
The HHR Never came with a Supercharger, so it would take alot more effort to fab the oem lsj unit inbetween the radiatior and the ac condensor, plus the Cobalt SS/SC has a dual fan setup.
I have a tank.
Trust me, I have been collecting my parts and researching this project for the last 18 months here.
To add the option B tank it needs to be higher than everything in the system to even work, right?
There is no room in the engine bay to install the little tank. To install it were you are suggesting puts it to low to effectively work. No?
And I don't see how a smaller OEM LSJ HE can cool better than the Larger ZZP Stealth HE.
Anyways, my post here was for info on the Size of the ZZP Stealth, if you want to continue, please take it over to my upcoming build thread and lets let the OP have his thread back.
Sucks to hear. I was looking foward to seeing what this HE is capable of. I guess now is your chance to build it better.
What other cooling mods?
All stock cooling, my IAT2s will get to 110 to 120 just doing a single pull to 80 MPH, then recover to the 90s. This is with a visible (vortex spinning in th neck) working pump
Not knocking anyone here or the product but putting my 2 cents. I never even had that much heat soak on my 2.5 in that kind of weather. My temps would start at 55-65 and never passed 100 going from 2nd-end of 3rd. It would take 2 back to back pulls to get to 120+ and recovery time was about 1/4-1/2 mile of cruising
All stock cooling, my IAT2s will get to 110 to 120 just doing a single pull to 80 MPH, then recover to the 90s. This is with a visible (vortex spinning in th neck) working pump
Sucks to hear. I was looking foward to seeing what this HE is capable of. I guess now is your chance to build it better.
What other cooling mods?
All stock cooling, my IAT2s will get to 110 to 120 just doing a single pull to 80 MPH, then recover to the 90s. This is with a visible (vortex spinning in th neck) working pump
What other cooling mods?
All stock cooling, my IAT2s will get to 110 to 120 just doing a single pull to 80 MPH, then recover to the 90s. This is with a visible (vortex spinning in th neck) working pump
some folks here and I am sad to say you appear to be one of them, dont understand what option B does. Providing "extra coolant" is not its purpose.
If you have laminova cores ,you have to keep air out of the cooling system. All engine cooling systems have a bleed line, running to a coolant reservoir (option B if you want to call it that) even your HHR. So you can have a radiator the size of the empire state building , if there is air in the coolant the laminova cores wont work effectively; the air is constantly entrained in the coolant in the LSJ Aftercooling system, its not something you can bleed out once and forget..
Mod'ing a car is not easy and clearly the HHR presents challenges that you are taking on, but my advice is find a way to run option B, try to run a standardLSJ s/c heat exchanger and dual pass and you would be much better off. And as the standard oem h/e sandwiches between the rad and the a.c and there are brackets made for that already, my guess is that part would be a lot easier for you. The option B can be in the nose of the car above the radiator shroud, looks like there is space there...its up to you. But what I described works,and would save you a lot of effort, time and money, and , bonus! work better.
If you have laminova cores ,you have to keep air out of the cooling system. All engine cooling systems have a bleed line, running to a coolant reservoir (option B if you want to call it that) even your HHR. So you can have a radiator the size of the empire state building , if there is air in the coolant the laminova cores wont work effectively; the air is constantly entrained in the coolant in the LSJ Aftercooling system, its not something you can bleed out once and forget..
Mod'ing a car is not easy and clearly the HHR presents challenges that you are taking on, but my advice is find a way to run option B, try to run a standardLSJ s/c heat exchanger and dual pass and you would be much better off. And as the standard oem h/e sandwiches between the rad and the a.c and there are brackets made for that already, my guess is that part would be a lot easier for you. The option B can be in the nose of the car above the radiator shroud, looks like there is space there...its up to you. But what I described works,and would save you a lot of effort, time and money, and , bonus! work better.
some folks here and I am sad to say you appear to be one of them, dont understand what option B does. Providing "extra coolant" is not its purpose.
If you have laminova cores ,you have to keep air out of the cooling system. All engine cooling systems have a bleed line, running to a coolant reservoir (option B if you want to call it that) even your HHR. So you can have a radiator the size of the empire state building , if there is air in the coolant the laminova cores wont work effectively; the air is constantly entrained in the coolant in the LSJ Aftercooling system, its not something you can bleed out once and forget..
Mod'ing a car is not easy and clearly the HHR presents challenges that you are taking on, but my advice is find a way to run option B, try to run a standardLSJ s/c heat exchanger and dual pass and you would be much better off. And as the standard oem h/e sandwiches between the rad and the a.c and there are brackets made for that already, my guess is that part would be a lot easier for you. The option B can be in the nose of the car above the radiator shroud, looks like there is space there...its up to you. But what I described works,and would save you a lot of effort, time and money, and , bonus! work better.
If you have laminova cores ,you have to keep air out of the cooling system. All engine cooling systems have a bleed line, running to a coolant reservoir (option B if you want to call it that) even your HHR. So you can have a radiator the size of the empire state building , if there is air in the coolant the laminova cores wont work effectively; the air is constantly entrained in the coolant in the LSJ Aftercooling system, its not something you can bleed out once and forget..
Mod'ing a car is not easy and clearly the HHR presents challenges that you are taking on, but my advice is find a way to run option B, try to run a standardLSJ s/c heat exchanger and dual pass and you would be much better off. And as the standard oem h/e sandwiches between the rad and the a.c and there are brackets made for that already, my guess is that part would be a lot easier for you. The option B can be in the nose of the car above the radiator shroud, looks like there is space there...its up to you. But what I described works,and would save you a lot of effort, time and money, and , bonus! work better.
The option b and dual pass were the best cooling mods I did to my h/e system. Its what kept my temps in check. I noticed very little improvement when I added my front mount. Heck when I went E85, that actually helped my iat2s
As for my set up....stock h/e, opt b, dual pass, E85, cx racing small dual pass h/e. Looking back at it all now if this were my build i'd do
#1-opt b
#2-Dual pass
#3-pheonlic spacers
#4-Griffin H/E
Just the 1st 3 listed above are better then running a front mount
Joined: 12-30-07
Posts: 14,079
Likes: 197
From: NEPA
some folks here and I am sad to say you appear to be one of them, dont understand what option B does. Providing "extra coolant" is not its purpose.
If you have laminova cores ,you have to keep air out of the cooling system. All engine cooling systems have a bleed line, running to a coolant reservoir (option B if you want to call it that) even your HHR. So you can have a radiator the size of the empire state building , if there is air in the coolant the laminova cores wont work effectively; the air is constantly entrained in the coolant in the LSJ Aftercooling system, its not something you can bleed out once and forget..
Mod'ing a car is not easy and clearly the HHR presents challenges that you are taking on, but my advice is find a way to run option B, try to run a standardLSJ s/c heat exchanger and dual pass and you would be much better off. And as the standard oem h/e sandwiches between the rad and the a.c and there are brackets made for that already, my guess is that part would be a lot easier for you. The option B can be in the nose of the car above the radiator shroud, looks like there is space there...its up to you. But what I described works,and would save you a lot of effort, time and money, and , bonus! work better.
If you have laminova cores ,you have to keep air out of the cooling system. All engine cooling systems have a bleed line, running to a coolant reservoir (option B if you want to call it that) even your HHR. So you can have a radiator the size of the empire state building , if there is air in the coolant the laminova cores wont work effectively; the air is constantly entrained in the coolant in the LSJ Aftercooling system, its not something you can bleed out once and forget..
Mod'ing a car is not easy and clearly the HHR presents challenges that you are taking on, but my advice is find a way to run option B, try to run a standardLSJ s/c heat exchanger and dual pass and you would be much better off. And as the standard oem h/e sandwiches between the rad and the a.c and there are brackets made for that already, my guess is that part would be a lot easier for you. The option B can be in the nose of the car above the radiator shroud, looks like there is space there...its up to you. But what I described works,and would save you a lot of effort, time and money, and , bonus! work better.
I always try to explain how it works, and why it's important....
I just can never come up with a simple straight forward explanation like the one you just provided.
Iv been doing some reading and it seems the guys running a griffen with opt b and dual pass are seeing 20 degrees over their iat1, so it sounds like it works right on par with a griffin to me, also op said his pump just went out on me so that could have affected his 18 degrees over iat1.