any weird noices around? like a leak kinda noice. mines does exactly the same thing. and unfortunatelly it is my intake manifold is cracked all over the edge under the supercharger. this really sucks and am fighting with the dealer so they can hopefully fix this issue. but mines has a whistling noice that isnt so loud but sounds like a leak for sure and thats what it is.

do to this problem everytime i turn on the car my o2 sensors and MAP sensors dont read the right amount of air or w.e since air is coming out from the cracked edge of the manifold. so i have to let my car warm up every morning for about 15-20 mins with it having the power engine reduce message. then turn it off for like 30-60 seconds then back on and its good. am guessing since its hot then the sensors tend to read a right amunt of air or something. but yea thats my big issue man. how did this happen???? i have absolutely no clue. this noice started out of nowhere and there u have it. hopefully u have an idea and this might help u to find any clue on what ur problem might be.

 

my boost problem iswas the boost solenoid. it was stuck open and there for leaking all the boost..

 

If Errything Is New & U Checked Everything Juss Get A AfterMarket Tune " Yeah No Kidding" & Make Sure They Disable The Code p0068...Thats Wat Ma Friend Did Last Year & It's Been Working Ever Since

 

this thread should have ended when I said that^^^ in the 12th post...

 

May sound stupid but your reverse lights arent stuck on are they.

The car will limit boost if it thinks it in reverse(bad switch)

 

yes, but it wouldnt throw the p0068 code. and pulling the vac line off the bypass solenoid would fix the boost limit if that were the cause.

 

Nope not stuck in reverse, no leaking noise. Im taking it to a friend tomorrow who is the cobalt specialist for chevy and hes going to take a look. he said from what it sound like its the PCM disabling the boost. I will update ....

 

My money is on the BBV.

Just in case:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Eaton...Q5fAccessories

The way I see it, the only reason the throttle position vs engine load correlation would be off is if the car expects to see X amount of boost but doesn't. Think of the one part that could possibly affect that (considering you already replaced the MAP sensor).

 

That does make alot of sense. I was thinking the same thing. I did make sure the BBV was slidding easily and the vacume lines were ok. Maybe its inside the BBV

 

Update !!! I Checked the BBV and vacume lines. Everything is fine. I Took it to the dealer to have it checked once again. They had it for about three hours Checking the programing in the computer, all the vacume lines, the BBV, all the sensors and the tech could not find the problem. The only code it is throwing now is P1182 it will throw the code at idle and at a constant speed. All of the techs at chevy looked at it and no one had any idea what was causing it. They couldnt charge me the diagnostic fee because they didnt diagnose anything. Im kinda stuck now because it does not qualify for the lemon law but no one can fix it. Does anyone have any other suggestions?... besides light it on fire lol

Could the super charger it self be bad? its not making any wierd noises or anything.

 

bro have u tried putting back ur stock CAI? like i said i had this problems as well and i replaced my k&n intake for the stock one and all problems were gone...idk u might want to try that.

 

I would try that but It cracked when I was taking it out. I had the after market CAI for like a year without any problems. Iv checked it for leaks in the intake. everything is fine.

 

how could you crack the intake? its soft plastic / rubber. unless you did it in freezing temperatures...

Have they replaced the SCIP sensor? Have you taken off the blower to inspect the rotors and BPV? Is it possible your gauge is just not reading boost correctly?

What you should do is find someone with HPTuners and have them datalog the car while you drive it around. let us have a look at the log file.

 

Found some info ,dont know if it helps or pertains to the problem



The following diagnosis might be helpful if the vehicle exhibits the symptom(s) described in this PI.

Condition/Concern:
On rare occasions, a SES Light may be experienced due to a P1182 DTC. Typically, there will not be any engine performance concerns reported.

Recommendation/Instructions:
If the P1182 SI diagnostics do not isolate a cause for this concern, the following information may help:

Review the freeze frame data to determine when the DTC set.
1.1. If the P1182 sets at or near idle, it is most likely due to carbon build up in the throttle body. Clean the throttle body by following the "Throttle Body Cleaning Procedure" in SI.

1.2. If the P1182 sets at a steady cruise, it is most likely due to an air intake leak or restriction causing the MAF, MAP, and/or SCIP sensor input to vary from the expected value. Inspect the air filter to ensure that it is a factory filter and that it is not dirty or damaged. If any concerns are noted, replace the air filter. Inspect all air intake snorkel connections and clamps to ensure that the air intake system is installed properly. Typically, the Long Term Fuel Trim will be greatly positive when the DTC sets if the engine is drawing in unmetered air due to an air intake leak after the MAF sensor.

If the information above does not isolate a cause for this concern, the accuracy of the BARO, MAP, and SCIP sensors should be confirmed with a Tech 2. The values below were taken from a known good vehicle around 740 feet above sea level (values will vary with altitude change).
Key On Engine Off:
- BARO - 2.29 Volts - 98 KPA

- MAP - 1.84 Volts - 98 KPA

- SCIP - 2.33 Volts - 98 KPA

Hot Idle with AC Off:
- BARO - 2.29 Volts - 98 KPA

- MAP - .71 Volts - 36 KPA

- SCIP - .69 Volts - 36 KPA
Pay attention to this part
- If the SCIP sensor voltage is approximately half of the SCIP voltage listed above, the wrong SCIP sensor was most likely installed during a previous repair. When ordering a SCIP sensor, the terminology in the parts catalog does not match SI. As a result, the wrong sensor may have been ordered and installed during a previous repair. The SCIP sensor is mounted on top of the supercharger with part number 09359409 stamped on it and it contains a 3 wire connector. Inspect the part number stamped on the SCIP sensor to ensure that it is part number 09359409. If not, replace the SCIP sensor with part number 09359409 (or any future part number).

If the P1182 did not occur until recent engine repairs, the following information may also help:
3.1. Inspect the vacuum hoses at the Bypass Valve Actuator to ensure proper installation. The hose attached to the top port of the actuator should be attached to the supercharger and the hose attached to the bottom port of the actuator should be attached to the Boost Control Solenoid.

3.2. Inspect the Bypass Valve Actuator Linkage to ensure that it is not damaged or modified and repair as necessary.

3.3. Verify proper installation of the cam sensor housing. The cam sensor housing and shaft should be aligned as shown below and carefully installed with #4 piston at top dead center on the compression stroke. If further details are necessary, refer to the procedure listed in 04-06-01-026.





Please follow this diagnostic or repair process thoroughly and complete each step. If the condition exhibited is resolved without completing every step, the remaining steps do not need to be performed.

 

i would loock at replacing the throttlebody i when from having 13psi to 18psi when i put a new throttle body on. but id did have p2135 with those codes.

 

Some more info,may help to narrow it down.

Supercharger boost pressure is regulated to prevent engine and drive train damage. When the engine is operating under high boost conditions, the powertrain control module (PCM) limits boost pressure to 83 kPa (12 psi). The PCM disables boost under the following conditions:

• When reverse gear is selected

• When the engine coolant temperature (ECT) is excessively high

• When drivetrain abuse is detected

• When the vehicle is decelerating

• If an intercooler pump failure is detected

• If the intake air temperature (IAT) sensor 2 becomes excessively high

• Under heavy load in first and second gear at engine speeds above 5,800 RPM

The PCM controls boost pressure by using the boost control solenoid. The boost control solenoid is normally an open valve. Under most conditions, the PCM commands the boost control solenoid to operate at a 99-100 percent duty cycle. This keeps the solenoid valve closed and allows only inlet vacuum to control the position of the bypass valve. At idle, engine vacuum is applied to the upper side of the bypass valve actuator, counteracting spring tension to hold the bypass valve open. As engine load is increased, engine vacuum is decreased, causing the spring in the bypass valve actuator to overcome the applied vacuum, closing the bypass valve and allowing the boost pressure to increase. The bypass valve starts to close when the vacuum measures 250 mm Hg (10 in Hg) and is fully closed at 90 mm Hg (3.5 in Hg). When reduced boost pressure is desired, the PCM commands the boost control solenoid to operate at a 0 percent duty cycle. This opens the solenoid valve and allows boost pressure to enter the bypass valve actuator at the lower side to counteract the spring tension, opening the bypass valve and recirculating excess boost pressure back into the supercharger inlet.

Results of Incorrect Operation
An open boost control solenoid control circuit, an open ignition 1 circuit, or boost control solenoid valve stuck open will cause reduced engine power, especially during wide open throttle operation.

The boost control solenoid control circuit shorted to ground, boost control solenoid valve stuck closed or a restriction in the boost source or signal hoses will cause full boost to be commanded at all times and a possible overboost condition during high engine load situations.

A restriction in the vacuum signal hose to the bypass valve actuator or a stuck closed bypass valve will cause a rough idle and reduced fuel economy.

 

OK I have to test this but I think I might know what the problem is. Is the BMAP and the MAP sensor the same sensor? the reason I ask is because I think when I replaced the MAP sensor I think they might have given me the BMAP sensor. They both look the same but do they both work on the same voltage? If the auto parts store gave me the wrong one and I replaced the MAP with the BMAP I think this could cause the screwed up reading. I have to find the old sensor first. Does this sound correct?

 

same thing, different terminology.

 

i had the same exact problem the dealer said the wastegate was clogged up. fixed it in like a half hr.. that was my experience on mine

 

ok so I replaced the MAP again and the car is no longer throwing ANY codes what so ever. however its still not boosting. Iv checked everything and done everything that everyone has said and still no luck!!!!

Does anyone know how to clean the wastegate valve ? I just looked and I dont see any way i can get to it without taking off the SC. I member told me that was his problem and the dealer fixed it in like 15 min so their has to be a easy way to get to it.

 

I have the exact same problem right now! sucks. keep posting.

 

Bump!!

 

Latest !! The car is not throwing any codes. However still only boosting 4 PSI. I took the air filter off thinking maybe it was the filter restricting the flow. I drove it down the street and tried to boost it. The car still boosted 4 and at wide open throttle the car sputtered and fell on its face. Im getting real bad gas mileage the meter says 29.1 MPG however its taking 1/4 to go 30 min drive. Could this be my fuel pump or fuel filter causing this probem? or maybe a bad injector?

I figured if the car was running lean it would throw a code.

The SC seems to be running normaly its not making any wierd noises or anything so Im not thinking the SC is bad.

Any help would be greatly appreciated !!! Iv tried everything so far and nothing has worked !!!!

 

for me it was the SC it self... rebuilt it and runs great, boosting at 17psi

see if you can borrow someones SC and swap them take it for a test drive... if it works its your sc, if not, don't know what to tell you.