Brake applying them selves... :(
#1
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Brake applying them selves... :(
I've turned the rotors, and replaced the pads.
Every time I do a WOT pull the car will start to shimmy past 4000 rpm, and the brakes from there on out will apply themselves until I stop driving or let them cool down?
I've taken out the 3 fuses related to ABS.. no luck
Could it be the calipers?
Every time I do a WOT pull the car will start to shimmy past 4000 rpm, and the brakes from there on out will apply themselves until I stop driving or let them cool down?
I've taken out the 3 fuses related to ABS.. no luck
Could it be the calipers?
#2
Senior Member
Could be a sticky caliper,
Do you know which brake is applying the pressure,What happens is if the pad is dragging already
The rotor will expand from the heat and the brake pad will grip tighter.
You should be able to smell which wheel is doing it.
To repair free up the caliper and use some high temp grease to relube the pins ,unless the piston is seized then the caliper needs replacing.
Just had a thought could it be the e-brake sticking.(Did you reset the ebrake by turning the piston back in)
Do you know which brake is applying the pressure,What happens is if the pad is dragging already
The rotor will expand from the heat and the brake pad will grip tighter.
You should be able to smell which wheel is doing it.
To repair free up the caliper and use some high temp grease to relube the pins ,unless the piston is seized then the caliper needs replacing.
Just had a thought could it be the e-brake sticking.(Did you reset the ebrake by turning the piston back in)
Last edited by Coblasts; 11-08-2009 at 10:57 AM.
#4
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I was able to turn back all the caliper pistons when I replaced the pads.
My guess is that it's the calipers too...
It seems that all 4 are doing it, but the right rear seems to be the worst.
My guess is that it's the calipers too...
It seems that all 4 are doing it, but the right rear seems to be the worst.
#8
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#9
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They all will rub a little bit ,normally you will hear the dragging of the pads more than you will feel it ,unless the rotors are warped then you will feel it just in certain areas.
Most people just change the pads with out lubing the pins and this what creates the problems with most calipers .
Maybe the aftermarket pads are to thick verses a stock pad and dont give enough clearance.
In this case you will have to sand them down a little or scrap them all together.
Most people just change the pads with out lubing the pins and this what creates the problems with most calipers .
Maybe the aftermarket pads are to thick verses a stock pad and dont give enough clearance.
In this case you will have to sand them down a little or scrap them all together.
#10
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They all will rub a little bit ,normally you will hear the dragging of the pads more than you will feel it ,unless the rotors are warped then you will feel it just in certain areas.
Most people just change the pads with out lubing the pins and this what creates the problems with most calipers .
Maybe the aftermarket pads are to thick verses a stock pad and dont give enough clearance.
In this case you will have to sand them down a little or scrap them all together.
Most people just change the pads with out lubing the pins and this what creates the problems with most calipers .
Maybe the aftermarket pads are to thick verses a stock pad and dont give enough clearance.
In this case you will have to sand them down a little or scrap them all together.
I just went and adjusted the e-brake.
The pins on the caliper? How do you lube those? I'm not picturing it.. :/
#12
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#13
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Where the calipers bolt onto the braket, where the bolts go in, those are the sliders. They have the little ruber sleeve on them. You can pull them out, make sure they arn't rusty, if they are, clean them off and grease them up. Don't use to much because it will make them air tight and the can stick. They should move in and out freely by hand.
Dude brakes are important, if you feel its over your head you may wanna tow it somewhere. I'm not saying you can't do it but i would hate to hear that you had an accident.
Dude brakes are important, if you feel its over your head you may wanna tow it somewhere. I'm not saying you can't do it but i would hate to hear that you had an accident.
#14
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Where the calipers bolt onto the braket, where the bolts go in, those are the sliders. They have the little ruber sleeve on them. You can pull them out, make sure they arn't rusty, if they are, clean them off and grease them up. Don't use to much because it will make them air tight and the can stick. They should move in and out freely by hand.
Dude brakes are important, if you feel its over your head you may wanna tow it somewhere. I'm not saying you can't do it but i would hate to hear that you had an accident.
Dude brakes are important, if you feel its over your head you may wanna tow it somewhere. I'm not saying you can't do it but i would hate to hear that you had an accident.
Luckily work is only a mile away, and the brake place is 2 miles away.
I'll be taking it there this week. Thanks for the help guys
#16
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ok first of all how do you know all the brakes are applying only at 4000 rpm and above your not even hitting the brakes. Something is wrong here. If I were you I would stop replacing parts on the car before yourself.
#17
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if it's the worst at the RR which is farthest from the master cylinder.. try a master swap... know anyone with an LSJ and a few hours time??? we could do it on my street...
EDIT: just got your missed call is this what that was about? i wasnt near my phone...
EDIT: just got your missed call is this what that was about? i wasnt near my phone...
#18
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Took three shops, and finally my main mechanic that I go to figured it out based on his own past experience.
Calipers are good, rotors are good, pads are new.
Replacing the master brake cyl. this weekend. There goes my paycheck
#20
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well if your gonna pay for labor.. DONT!!!!!! like stated above.. we can do it on my street.. you just need some brake fluid... just bring a rag... LOL
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