I've turned the rotors, and replaced the pads.

Every time I do a WOT pull the car will start to shimmy past 4000 rpm, and the brakes from there on out will apply themselves until I stop driving or let them cool down?

I've taken out the 3 fuses related to ABS.. no luck

Could it be the calipers?

 

Could be a sticky caliper,
Do you know which brake is applying the pressure,What happens is if the pad is dragging already
The rotor will expand from the heat and the brake pad will grip tighter.
You should be able to smell which wheel is doing it.

To repair free up the caliper and use some high temp grease to relube the pins ,unless the piston is seized then the caliper needs replacing.

Just had a thought could it be the e-brake sticking.(Did you reset the ebrake by turning the piston back in)

 

Sounds like a caliper. Get it off the ground and see which one it is. Could also be a master cylender. If its stuck it'll do that.

 

I was able to turn back all the caliper pistons when I replaced the pads.

My guess is that it's the calipers too...

It seems that all 4 are doing it, but the right rear seems to be the worst.

 

All 4 do it? Sticky master cylinder??? Not sure on this one.

 

If take it to my local brake mechanic, you think they'll be able to figure the issue on the spot, without ripping my arm off for cash?

 

could be the rubber brake hoses as well, they can be colapsing, also if you twisted the lines durning a brake job, this can also cause it.

 

I'm running CA Steel braided lines

 

They all will rub a little bit ,normally you will hear the dragging of the pads more than you will feel it ,unless the rotors are warped then you will feel it just in certain areas.
Most people just change the pads with out lubing the pins and this what creates the problems with most calipers .
Maybe the aftermarket pads are to thick verses a stock pad and dont give enough clearance.
In this case you will have to sand them down a little or scrap them all together.

 

I've used these pads before tho without issue.

I just went and adjusted the e-brake.

The pins on the caliper? How do you lube those? I'm not picturing it.. :/

 

Pull the pins out, and grease them with white lithium grease everywhere where they connect/slide.

 

I'm confused where the pins are... Any picture for reference?

 

Where the calipers bolt onto the braket, where the bolts go in, those are the sliders. They have the little ruber sleeve on them. You can pull them out, make sure they arn't rusty, if they are, clean them off and grease them up. Don't use to much because it will make them air tight and the can stick. They should move in and out freely by hand.
Dude brakes are important, if you feel its over your head you may wanna tow it somewhere. I'm not saying you can't do it but i would hate to hear that you had an accident.

 

It's drivable, I just need to be really easy on it so that the rotors n pads dont heat up.

Luckily work is only a mile away, and the brake place is 2 miles away.

I'll be taking it there this week. Thanks for the help guys

 

Good luck man let us know whats up.

 

ok first of all how do you know all the brakes are applying only at 4000 rpm and above your not even hitting the brakes. Something is wrong here. If I were you I would stop replacing parts on the car before yourself.

 

if it's the worst at the RR which is farthest from the master cylinder.. try a master swap... know anyone with an LSJ and a few hours time??? we could do it on my street...
EDIT: just got your missed call is this what that was about? i wasnt near my phone...

 

DING DING DING

Took three shops, and finally my main mechanic that I go to figured it out based on his own past experience.

Calipers are good, rotors are good, pads are new.

Replacing the master brake cyl. this weekend. There goes my paycheck

 

Weird

 

well if your gonna pay for labor.. DONT!!!!!! like stated above.. we can do it on my street.. you just need some brake fluid... just bring a rag... LOL