There is no difference between you and the dealer doing it besides the cost. If you have half a brain you can get them out. If you can't get them out without damaging the caliper then either will the dealer. Might as well try it yourself first before you pay out the ass to have someone else **** it up.

Op sorry to hear about your struggles. I have done mine and they popped right out. DD thru Chicago winters with 45k miles

 

Hmmm. That's weird. How recent do service or replace them then and did you apply anything to them when you put them back in?

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They were services at like 25k miles and just Brembo lube was put on the pins. I suppose it is just hit or miss wether or not they seize. But most who I have talked to have just been able to pop them right out.

 

Well I'm not one of them. Haha. Mine aren't "popping" right out.

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Put a light coat of copper anti seize on all pins during the re install. Should help with getting them out easier next time.

 

This ^^^^^ no thanks.

ill let the dealership handle this.

 

ya the only difference is if the dealership ***** up my calipers they're buying me new ones..

 

use a lot of heat....... you might damage the seals but the rebuild kits are pretty cheap.

otherwise what i have had to do on cars is take a cut off wheel and cut the center out, take the caliper put it in a vice and whack the smapp pieces out.... i have a thin enough hardened punch to go through little hole to the other side.

but honestly at this point i would do it off the car. makes life easy.

 

my rotors were so gouged I couldn't get the caliper off the rotor also, after you get them all fixed I suggest brake service every year if its not winter driving, powell also says change the brake fluid yearly

 

NO you do NOT use copper anti seize, that will cause them to seize up again. Anti seize is for bolts. You use a silicone based caliper slide pin grease or a high temperature moly grease.
http://www.permatex.com/products/pro...er-lube-detail


Did this slide pin have any grease on it at all when you removed it? Im curious if they are just missing grease from the factory thats causing them to seize up.

 

Haha good luck with that. They are going to tell you they were seized and the capliers were damaged during taking them out. They WILL NOT pay for them

 

mine were re painted by my dealer

 

then it wasn't done properly and they will replace them.. if it's as easy as everyone says it is then it wouldn't be an issue for the dealership..

they don't have a choice but to pay for them if they mark them up... the car has to come out the same condition it went in.. that simple.

that's like the dealership telling me that they scratched my fender because they had to lean over it to get a seized bolt off in the engine compartment and saying.. "sorry about that but i had to lean on the fender to get the bolt out.. **** happens"

get serious.

i used to work at a chevy dealership in the service department and i also have my car serviced regularly at the dealership and have never had a problem getting something from the dealership if i wasn't happy.

 

it looks like there was no anti seize

 

when i did my passenger side when i got my car i had a pin frozen, i hit the bracket with a 8 pound sledge hammer until it bent, the pin wouldnt budge and it was half way extended. had to be no grease from the factory for it to be that badly frozen. They are supposed to be CAKED in grease so that they slide like butter.

 

the guy that greased them should be fired lol

 

Along with whoever didn't do the rear sliding pins also.

Checked mine today (Recently purchased car) and they slid out with ease, sorry to hear about your troubles.

 

Well buddy came over. Started going to town cussing up a storm wondering why they weren't just sliding out. Dude thought I was shitting him. He found out the hard way. We took the caliper off and smashed one out when it was on a vice grip. The other one we drilled out. Actually turned out perfect and seats fine. Tomorrow we are ripping the other side off since it got late and a beer or 5 later went by.

Gotta get more beer...

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What do you guys think is the best way to handle this? Either have a dealer or shop beat the hell out of em with heat, have a dealer/shop take the calipers off and drill the pins, or just buy new calipers for a little less than $400 and have them installed?

 

no need for new calipers, worse is you need new pins 70$

 

I'm a complete cheapass and hate giving my money to a dealership. I only go to one if its something I can't do or if no one I know can't do it. My buddy's that own a shop are good guys and usually end up giving me a hand. So normally I tackle it myself until I need a hand with something.

Something like this is a hit or miss though. Some do slide right out and others will fight you. Once we got the caliper off and situated though it was cake to drill them. It really all depends if you have the time or not to do them.

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New pins? $70? Holy hell. You got ripped off. I got a complete set off rockauto for $23 shipped. Even came with lube!

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rofl i paid 25 dollars for the bracket 5 bucks for the slide pins and 3.99 for the boot kit, only to find out my posiquiet brake pads came with the new boots

 

yep I'm gonna see if I can grab a couple buddies and do the same. I'd just rather not take the caliper off completely and have to deal with bleeding
I paid ~$50 for new pins from CED and plan on using em.

 

What you need is penetrating fluid and you need to tap both the front and back of the pin to try and get some movement. Once it starts moving, even the slightest bit spray it good with fluid and keep working it back and forth. Coated mine in never-seize pretty good when I put them back in