CEL from CA downpipe
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CEL from CA downpipe
Has anybody out there who has a Cobalt-Addiction downpipe had a CEL come on. Not sure what to do. I will be contacting CA soon to find out, but wanted to check here first. I got the downpipe second hand. The previous owner didn't say anything. The code comes up as failed cat. Anybody out there that can help?
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It has the cat on it. My mechanic said the cat on this dp supports OBD I and our cobalts have the OBD II. Make sense? This is why the computer is not recognizing the cat. Mechanic suggested I call CA to see if there is a solution to this. Perhaps some packing to reduce the flow? I have sent a message to the guy I bought it off. He had it on his SS/SC.
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Has anybody out there who has a Cobalt-Addiction downpipe had a CEL come on. Not sure what to do. I will be contacting CA soon to find out, but wanted to check here first. I got the downpipe second hand. The previous owner didn't say anything. The code comes up as failed cat. Anybody out there that can help?
Does anyone else have any suggestions?
#8
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You can either weld something like this in its place. Or there are many other kits on the net that do the same thing without welding.
O2 CEL Eliminator J Pipe
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O2 CEL Eliminator J Pipe
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E-rams are low pressure electric superchargers of sorts that only run at WOT.
Your base e-ram is $300. It has a 1.2hp electric motor that spins a metal axial turbine at 25,000rpm which tries to force 800cfm of air into your engine. Your engine needs less than 300cfm, so the resulting difference results in about 1lb of boost. My super e-ram is basically 2 e-rams in series making about 1.7lb of boost.
They're about to release a new 3hp, 40,000rpm version, (the ultra e-ram) said to add 2.5lbs of boost for $1,000. The company guarantees a 9%hp increase on top of your existing mods for their super e-ram model like I have and 5% for the regular e-ram.
For more info go to: http://www.electricsupercharger.com
If you are seriously thinking about adding them, PM me and I will tell you about installation and tuning, because they must be set-up correctly for best results.
Your base e-ram is $300. It has a 1.2hp electric motor that spins a metal axial turbine at 25,000rpm which tries to force 800cfm of air into your engine. Your engine needs less than 300cfm, so the resulting difference results in about 1lb of boost. My super e-ram is basically 2 e-rams in series making about 1.7lb of boost.
They're about to release a new 3hp, 40,000rpm version, (the ultra e-ram) said to add 2.5lbs of boost for $1,000. The company guarantees a 9%hp increase on top of your existing mods for their super e-ram model like I have and 5% for the regular e-ram.
For more info go to: http://www.electricsupercharger.com
If you are seriously thinking about adding them, PM me and I will tell you about installation and tuning, because they must be set-up correctly for best results.
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Hopefully those suggestions work for you. As I said in my PM, I never had an issue with it. The 2.4 ECU may be a little more sensitive than the SS/SC's and that's what causing the code.
On a side note, if your getting such a good flow that the ECU can't pick it up.....That's a good exhaust, haha.
On a side note, if your getting such a good flow that the ECU can't pick it up.....That's a good exhaust, haha.
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P0420 cel fix
I just installed a "Mil Eliminator" on my 2.4. I purchased this little item for $7.75 including shipping off e-bay to fix my P0420 "low cat efficiency" cel due to my XTC b-pipe's high flow cat. It's the cheapest and simplest fix I've found.
Installation was easy. First I disconnected the neg battery terminal. I then set the e-brake, jacked up the front left side of the car, and secured it with a jackstand. Next, I cut the rear o2 sensor's black (signal) wire about 3" from the sensor. I then spliced the device in place (red wire towards connector and black wire towards sensor), shrunk the heatshrink abound the connections and taped it up. At this time, it's a good idea to push the heatshield securing the sensor wire and mil eliminator as far as you can away from the exhaust pipe for safety sake. After reconnecting the battery terminal I plugged in my scan tool to insure all codes were off. Total time: 10-15 minutes.
So far it's worked out fine. No p0420 cels or pendings.
I'll let you guys know if it returns.
Here's the link: http://www.o2sensorsimulator.com/?gc...FSREgQod5XiaLg
Installation was easy. First I disconnected the neg battery terminal. I then set the e-brake, jacked up the front left side of the car, and secured it with a jackstand. Next, I cut the rear o2 sensor's black (signal) wire about 3" from the sensor. I then spliced the device in place (red wire towards connector and black wire towards sensor), shrunk the heatshrink abound the connections and taped it up. At this time, it's a good idea to push the heatshield securing the sensor wire and mil eliminator as far as you can away from the exhaust pipe for safety sake. After reconnecting the battery terminal I plugged in my scan tool to insure all codes were off. Total time: 10-15 minutes.
So far it's worked out fine. No p0420 cels or pendings.
I'll let you guys know if it returns.
Here's the link: http://www.o2sensorsimulator.com/?gc...FSREgQod5XiaLg
#13
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you can just go to any auto parts place and buy the fitting that fits an o2 sensor. drill one out so it fits over the senser. then add another one. it moves the sensor out, and makes the hole smaller sending it less exhaust gas to meter. i think it cost me like 3 bucks when i did mine.
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you can just go to any auto parts place and buy the fitting that fits an o2 sensor. drill one out so it fits over the senser. then add another one. it moves the sensor out, and makes the hole smaller sending it less exhaust gas to meter. i think it cost me like 3 bucks when i did mine.
That's certainly better than the $29.95 Weapons R Cel eliminator spacer.
Are you talking about a nut or o2bung that threads onto the sensor to space it?
I like your fix because the sensor protrudes less into the exhaust, creating less turbulence, improving exhaust flow and increasing hp!
Your solution does weigh more than mine, so I guess the wild hp gians produced are offset by the massive amount of extra weight added (compared to my light weight electronic thingy), negating any benefits.
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