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Hey guys i have a 2008 Cobalt S I bought it with a bad clutch knowing it needed replaced. I replaced the clutch and it runs and drives great BUT the clutch has no give at all its so easy to push down and it grabs alllll the way at the top of the petal and likes to grind 4th sometimes. I like a stiffer petal and defo would rather it be towards to middle a bit more. Do these have adjustments for the clutch I've searched around but im not finding much. Any help would be appreciated.
damn well i was hopeful anyways. Ive always had an SS my wheel broke off of my 06 that looked like yours and put me into a pole. I got the smart idea to build a car cant tell you how much time I've spent bleeding this clutch.,
Follow the GM procedure and it should help the clutch feel, the design of the bleeder location it doesn't bleed the entire line and requires vacuum to pull the air bubbles completely out.
I used a mityvac bleeder connected to a motive bleeder GM brake res adapter (Motive Products - 1108) to pull -20 to -24inHg on the brake res. Let the vacuum hold for 5 mins, released the vacuum, pump clutch slowly 5 times, then repeat until the pedal feels proper. When I replaced my clutch last using this method by the 3rd cycle it felt normal, and I did a 4th just to be sure but there was no difference.
I guess it depends on what you're used to feeling/driving. IMO, in OE form these cars do kind of have a weak/numb feeling clutch pedal and mine definitely came from the factory grabbing at the top of the pedal.
There are "clutch rods" out there from ZZP, but they were intended for use with aftermarket pressure plates. The factory non adjustable unit does not allow changing engagement location for the clutch pedal.
Will that make the pedal more like the SS's? Ive had 2 and both had a decent stiff pedal and wasnt at the top of the pedal. I did put a stage 2 clutch in it as im planning (if everything works out) to Supercharge it this spring.
Okay, wait. Are you in a non-SS car? Your OP was missing some info, I guess I just assumed SS.
If you're in an F23 car (2.2L or 2.4L), I'm 98% sure your clutch line has a "damper" on it. You can order the SS clutch line from OTTP to remove it from the system. This should give you more feel. Doubtful that it'll change the engagement location though.
My SS definitely always grabbed near the top of the pedal travel though.
i said 2008 Cobalt S makes it a 2.4 lol My SS's were never at the top they were at the middle and they were pretty stiff. I'm going to get the bleeder kit for the brake fill and hope it helps
I've never seen anyone abbreviate Cobalt Sport as Cobalt S before.
Honestly, if your pedal engagement is at the top, that means that your system is properly bled. There is no air in your system, which is why your clutch instantly responds to pedal movement.
Without a doubt though, if you want to firm up the pedal and get more feeling out of it, you need to remove the hydraulic damper. It's the round part in this picture; located near the clutch master cylinder.
It will likely never feel the same as the SS though. Different TOB's.
I've never seen anyone abbreviate Cobalt Sport as Cobalt S before.
Honestly, if your pedal engagement is at the top, that means that your system is properly bled. There is no air in your system, which is why your clutch instantly responds to pedal movement.
Without a doubt though, if you want to firm up the pedal and get more feeling out of it, you need to remove the hydraulic damper. It's the round part in this picture; located near the clutch master cylinder.
It will likely never feel the same as the SS though. Different TOB's.
This, I thought it OPs was an SS LNF too. I need to pay more attention to where my clutch catches, I'm just so used to it I don't even think about it. I do know its not in the lower half of pedal travel, also trying to recall my base model how the pedal travel was in comparison to my SS but I don't recall it being significantly different.
I've never seen anyone abbreviate Cobalt Sport as Cobalt S before.
Honestly, if your pedal engagement is at the top, that means that your system is properly bled. There is no air in your system, which is why your clutch instantly responds to pedal movement.
Without a doubt though, if you want to firm up the pedal and get more feeling out of it, you need to remove the hydraulic damper. It's the round part in this picture; located near the clutch master cylinder.
It will likely never feel the same as the SS though. Different TOB's.
Ive been around cobalt fb pages for a long time and the fact my car has an S on the side is why i call it an S My kids say its because its not super its just slow lol. Never heard that the pedal being at the top ment it was bled in some cases i know it means your clutch is going out. Tbf been driving a stick shift for 20 years and ive never had one so far at the top and when i say at the top i dont mean by the floor i mean the travel time is all the way at the top of the pedal not at the floor where it should be or at least close. It will grind 4th here and there as well which is incredibly annoying tbf lol. But yeah the travel time is far away not by the floor aka the bottom of the pedal its at the top where you release your foot off of the petal. I dont think it will ever feel like an mu8 tranny thats true but ive never had in 20 years a pedal that felt like nothing at all thats why im trying to find answers xD P.S dont join the cobalt FB pages its incredibly toxic asf if i need real answers i always come here.
I've always thought the total pedal travel was pretty small on the cobalt base and SS. I feel like the Audi pedal travels further, and the 280zx pedal travels further as well
Your car has an S on the side? I think someone else might have added that. Never seen before.
Yep, I get what you mean. From the factory, my LSJ's engagement point was near the top. Probably about 3/4 of the way up.
anything is possible but yea it has an S in the same place it would be for an SS, Both of my LSJ's engagement was near the bottom maybe half way or so but closer to the floor. If i remove that part will the line even reach? And mines not even that far down its way at the top im going to try bleeding it again when it warms up with the part mentioned at the top see if it helps.
I've always thought the total pedal travel was pretty small on the cobalt base and SS. I feel like the Audi pedal travels further, and the 280zx pedal travels further as well
Same. The pedal travel in my Viper is probably twice the distance and much heavier. If I drive it for a long time, the next time I drive the Cobalt, I feel like I'm going to kick the clutch pedal through the firewall.
Originally Posted by Jenny da Mota
anything is possible but yea it has an S in the same place it would be for an SS, Both of my LSJ's engagement was near the bottom maybe half way or so but closer to the floor. If i remove that part will the line even reach? And mines not even that far down its way at the top im going to try bleeding it again when it warms up with the part mentioned at the top see if it helps.
Yeah. I'm 95% sure the S isn't from the factory.
No, if you're going to remove the damper, you'll most likely need to replace it with a braided SS line. OTTP sells one and I have it in my car. Super simple install; takes all of about 5 minutes.
Same. The pedal travel in my Viper is probably twice the distance and much heavier. If I drive it for a long time, the next time I drive the Cobalt, I feel like I'm going to kick the clutch pedal through the firewall.
Yeah. I'm 95% sure the S isn't from the factory.
No, if you're going to remove the damper, you'll most likely need to replace it with a braided SS line. OTTP sells one and I have it in my car. Super simple install; takes all of about 5 minutes.
Clutch adjustments?
