crank shaft position sensor
Thread Starter
New Member
Joined: 07-31-13
Posts: 3
Likes: 0
From: seattle
crank shaft position sensor
Car bucking for no apparent reason? Tachometer only working half the time? Stalls? Had to replace your crank shaft position sensor 3 times this year? can't figure out why you've been going through so many catalytic converters?
this issue i caused by a design flaw that I had the misfortune of dealing with.
the crank shaft position sensor (CKP) is connected to the wiring harness with a pig tail; due to the mass of this pig tail and the constant vibration of the engine a lot of mechanical wear takes place on the wires coming from the harness here. This will cause intermittent opens on the line causing your car to think that it's way off timing or that your car is misfiring. When this happens your car will shut off the ignition which causes unburnt fuel to be injected directly into the catalytic converter ultimately (and needlessly) destroying it.
There are two ways that you can fix this issue. You can buy an entirely new engine wiring harness(and the issue will likely come up again in a few years); or do a bit of research and fix the design flaw by building a new harness segment out of high quality heavily shrink wrapped wire and re-pining this into the ECU plug directly (this is also the "cheap" option, although it's like performing heart surgery on your car).
The harness is for the most part plug and play. it's held down with a few screws here and there but it's just about impossible to mess up it's installation. your looking at 200- 400 dollars in parts and several hours in labor (expect to get milked by any mechanic on this job; most mechanics hate anything electrical). For a moderately mechanically inclined and motivated individual with basic tools it's a time consuming but easy task.
Re-wiring directly to the ECU can take quite awhile. Mechanics will not be able to perform this job. The components needed can not be bought at the dealership and need to be ordered from mouser.com.
15326813 GT 150 3 wire male plug x 1
15326268-L GT 150 male pins x 3
33467-0005 MX64 .100 female pins x 3
about 3 x 3' lengths of 18 gauge wire with preferably silicone insulation of
various colors.
as much shrink tube as you can get
zip ties
All of the pins can be crimped with good molex crimps however the GT 150 plugs have seals that need to be crimped on carefully with a pair of needle nose pliers. don't bother buying those, just use the old ones in the old plug they will be fine. heavily shrink tube the end with the GT 150 plug, the idea here it to get it as stiff as possible so that it will not fail due to wear again. zip tie everything to the old harness up to the 72 pin ECU plug. This is the hard part.
http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/...9jkoaccdCq0%3d
disassemble this plug (read as much about it as you can) and re-pin the three CKP circuit wires into it. It's a horrible gut wrenching experience but it's do-able. I won't post the info for this circuit on my car, other models/ years are likely different and pin outs could even be vin specific, see your local dealership and ask for a pin- out schematic of the ECU and a circuit diagram for the CKP. also order extra pins, I didn't which made the whole experience even that more horrible for me. total cost: 60 bucks including tools. (shipping was more than the cost of the plug and pins) If you **** this up you can seriously damage your engine/ ECU/ wiring harness. Be warned
this issue i caused by a design flaw that I had the misfortune of dealing with.
the crank shaft position sensor (CKP) is connected to the wiring harness with a pig tail; due to the mass of this pig tail and the constant vibration of the engine a lot of mechanical wear takes place on the wires coming from the harness here. This will cause intermittent opens on the line causing your car to think that it's way off timing or that your car is misfiring. When this happens your car will shut off the ignition which causes unburnt fuel to be injected directly into the catalytic converter ultimately (and needlessly) destroying it.
There are two ways that you can fix this issue. You can buy an entirely new engine wiring harness(and the issue will likely come up again in a few years); or do a bit of research and fix the design flaw by building a new harness segment out of high quality heavily shrink wrapped wire and re-pining this into the ECU plug directly (this is also the "cheap" option, although it's like performing heart surgery on your car).
The harness is for the most part plug and play. it's held down with a few screws here and there but it's just about impossible to mess up it's installation. your looking at 200- 400 dollars in parts and several hours in labor (expect to get milked by any mechanic on this job; most mechanics hate anything electrical). For a moderately mechanically inclined and motivated individual with basic tools it's a time consuming but easy task.
Re-wiring directly to the ECU can take quite awhile. Mechanics will not be able to perform this job. The components needed can not be bought at the dealership and need to be ordered from mouser.com.
15326813 GT 150 3 wire male plug x 1
15326268-L GT 150 male pins x 3
33467-0005 MX64 .100 female pins x 3
about 3 x 3' lengths of 18 gauge wire with preferably silicone insulation of
various colors.
as much shrink tube as you can get
zip ties
All of the pins can be crimped with good molex crimps however the GT 150 plugs have seals that need to be crimped on carefully with a pair of needle nose pliers. don't bother buying those, just use the old ones in the old plug they will be fine. heavily shrink tube the end with the GT 150 plug, the idea here it to get it as stiff as possible so that it will not fail due to wear again. zip tie everything to the old harness up to the 72 pin ECU plug. This is the hard part.
http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/...9jkoaccdCq0%3d
disassemble this plug (read as much about it as you can) and re-pin the three CKP circuit wires into it. It's a horrible gut wrenching experience but it's do-able. I won't post the info for this circuit on my car, other models/ years are likely different and pin outs could even be vin specific, see your local dealership and ask for a pin- out schematic of the ECU and a circuit diagram for the CKP. also order extra pins, I didn't which made the whole experience even that more horrible for me. total cost: 60 bucks including tools. (shipping was more than the cost of the plug and pins) If you **** this up you can seriously damage your engine/ ECU/ wiring harness. Be warned
Thread Starter
New Member
Joined: 07-31-13
Posts: 3
Likes: 0
From: seattle
Also, unless the ECU has been swapped out or the fly wheel has been changed in your car you will never have to perform a relearn procedure. This is only needed when the number of pulses received by the CKP per revolution of the engine has changed.
Thread Starter
New Member
Joined: 07-31-13
Posts: 3
Likes: 0
From: seattle
Who's bright idea was it to have the wiring harness for my car made in Mexico with crappy, 6 conductor under spec insulation. Why do we have to pay so much god damn money to have our cars remapped; my wristwatch has more memory and processing power than this joke of a computer that someone decided to use as a ECU in my car. I may as well just completely redesign the entire electrical system in my car and plug it into an arduino controller, I will end up having to do it at some point anyway if I want to keep my car on the road another 5 years. I am really starting to think that the wiring in my car is bio-degradable. Why do I have to pay some moron 100$ to "scan" my car with a controller, why can't chevy just make everything that runs over the obd2 port open source.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post