has anyone over spun head or balance shafts
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has anyone over spun head or balance shafts
so.... has anyone managed to wipe out a cam, take out some lifters, or break valve springs? and if so what rpm were you spinning?
i spin up to 7550 on accident sometimes, rev limit is set at 7300 but we all know you have to exceed that number before fuel is cut and with my hp levels i hit 7500 sometimes before the pcm catches up...
im wondering what kinda damage happens (what goes first) and what is the most rpm people have spun on stock valvetrain and balance shafts.
i hear the valve springs will hang to 7600-7800 but its the balance shafts that dont get enough oil to spin 15000 rpm for a long period.
anyone have some actual damage happen?
i spin up to 7550 on accident sometimes, rev limit is set at 7300 but we all know you have to exceed that number before fuel is cut and with my hp levels i hit 7500 sometimes before the pcm catches up...
im wondering what kinda damage happens (what goes first) and what is the most rpm people have spun on stock valvetrain and balance shafts.
i hear the valve springs will hang to 7600-7800 but its the balance shafts that dont get enough oil to spin 15000 rpm for a long period.
anyone have some actual damage happen?
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it was stock valvetrain, and in reality the valvetrain between ecotec heads isnt that different.
im not sure if the balance shafts are an oiling issue, i thought it was more of a case of centrifical force causing them to break apart. the gm neutral balance shafts still spin in the same bearings without any oiling mods done. if its an oiling problem, you dont actualy fix it by going to the gm neutral balance shafts, you would need a balance shaft delete kit like levelzero motorsports produces.
im not sure if the balance shafts are an oiling issue, i thought it was more of a case of centrifical force causing them to break apart. the gm neutral balance shafts still spin in the same bearings without any oiling mods done. if its an oiling problem, you dont actualy fix it by going to the gm neutral balance shafts, you would need a balance shaft delete kit like levelzero motorsports produces.
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it was stock valvetrain, and in reality the valvetrain between ecotec heads isnt that different.
im not sure if the balance shafts are an oiling issue, i thought it was more of a case of centrifical force causing them to break apart. the gm neutral balance shafts still spin in the same bearings without any oiling mods done. if its an oiling problem, you dont actualy fix it by going to the gm neutral balance shafts, you would need a balance shaft delete kit like levelzero motorsports produces.
im not sure if the balance shafts are an oiling issue, i thought it was more of a case of centrifical force causing them to break apart. the gm neutral balance shafts still spin in the same bearings without any oiling mods done. if its an oiling problem, you dont actualy fix it by going to the gm neutral balance shafts, you would need a balance shaft delete kit like levelzero motorsports produces.
well the balence shaft delete blocks off the oil passages and that is were i got my info on overspinning the bearings,
i dont think anyone has actually made a balance shaft come apart that would be really really hard.
level zero is what im after but it says the engine needs to be remove in order to install the bushings that block the oil passage, plus they are not reversable once there pressed in thats it for that block...
again thank you for your input
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rpm is rpm, it was actualy a turbo l61, and it was clayton from levelzero's cavalier. i have put the balance shaft kit in, they are a pain to put the bushings in, i had to stand the block on end. you may be able to drop the subframe down and lower the front of the motor, but its not going to be easy.
i have seen a couple pics of a balance shaft that exploded. they are just cast iron, in the end in looks kinda like a cast iron flywheel that has exploded. i dont know what they did to make it explode, but there wasnt much left of the motor in the end.
i have seen a couple pics of a balance shaft that exploded. they are just cast iron, in the end in looks kinda like a cast iron flywheel that has exploded. i dont know what they did to make it explode, but there wasnt much left of the motor in the end.
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it makes a kinda loud noise coming from the intake mani as if the valves are floating or something. kinda odd. sounds kinda bad. and the over rev light comes on in the dash.
which is another thing, that is the rpm lamp correct? how come when i change it in hpt no matter how low i set it it wont go off when i want? only when over revved?
i want to do a delete kit but i hear the motor has to be out to press in the things that block the oil passages... or lower the sub frame which i will do when i do clutch and maybe ill give it a try then!
#11
no, its just well i have my rev limiter set to 7300 across the board. but when the car breaks traction in first and bangs the rev limiter (ouch) it will be recorded by hpt as going as high as 7600rpm... i assume this is because the engine is revving so fast by the time it cuts fuel at 7300 it still has enough rotating mass to reach 7580rpm?
it makes a kinda loud noise coming from the intake mani as if the valves are floating or something. kinda odd. sounds kinda bad. and the over rev light comes on in the dash.
which is another thing, that is the rpm lamp correct? how come when i change it in hpt no matter how low i set it it wont go off when i want? only when over revved?
i want to do a delete kit but i hear the motor has to be out to press in the things that block the oil passages... or lower the sub frame which i will do when i do clutch and maybe ill give it a try then!
it makes a kinda loud noise coming from the intake mani as if the valves are floating or something. kinda odd. sounds kinda bad. and the over rev light comes on in the dash.
which is another thing, that is the rpm lamp correct? how come when i change it in hpt no matter how low i set it it wont go off when i want? only when over revved?
i want to do a delete kit but i hear the motor has to be out to press in the things that block the oil passages... or lower the sub frame which i will do when i do clutch and maybe ill give it a try then!
motor out would prob be 100x easier.
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get neutral shafts and call it a day
the over spin light comes on at 7600. at least in 07's it does no matter where you set it at. you're fine man.
i use the over spin light as a shift light
the over spin light comes on at 7600. at least in 07's it does no matter where you set it at. you're fine man.
i use the over spin light as a shift light
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call it a mon or two, lol those things arent cheap... so is that what your running? along with the supertech's? 78lbs is plenty yeah? i was going to order these and get the head cnc'd. the only is i havent decided on is the balance shaft situation, i only wanna do this once.
also im suprised no-one has engineered a kit that allows you to retain the factory balance shafts but not spin them, that way they would still provide enough blockage to the oil system to retain pressure but not be used for anything else...
hm you would think that you could install some retaining plate possibly drill and tap the block for somthing like a cam plate in a roller block sbc 350, that would keep em in then simply use the delet kits chain and remove the sprokets from the balance shafts so there not in the way of the chain...
im going to look into this more im willing to be the test dummy here. tell me area what are your thoughts on this...
Last edited by hungryhip-ccp; 03-20-2009 at 01:58 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
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spend the money on the shafts. i wouldn't half ass anything inside the motor. im still on stock shafts right now. i need to sell some more lsj parts to cover the cost of the shafts.
you can do the shafts with the motor in the car. just with some creative use of an engine puller to get it to drop down enough
being that the shafts are chain driven along with the water pump. you lose that chain, or a gear. you lose the pump as well. not good!
78lb springs are peachy actually. zero issues with em for over 30k miles
you can do the shafts with the motor in the car. just with some creative use of an engine puller to get it to drop down enough
being that the shafts are chain driven along with the water pump. you lose that chain, or a gear. you lose the pump as well. not good!
78lb springs are peachy actually. zero issues with em for over 30k miles
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i was thinking more of something like this but leaving the shafts in just removing the gear connected to the front of em and making a couple little retaining ears to stick out and hols down the balance shafts from coming out, like a retaing plate but just ears as ther looks to be no room for a whole plate.
but theese are just idea's i dont think they will become nothing more than that.
there is even bolt hole's in the block already...
spend the money on the shafts. i wouldn't half ass anything inside the motor. im still on stock shafts right now. i need to sell some more lsj parts to cover the cost of the shafts.
you can do the shafts with the motor in the car. just with some creative use of an engine puller to get it to drop down enough
being that the shafts are chain driven along with the water pump. you lose that chain, or a gear. you lose the pump as well. not good!
78lb springs are peachy actually. zero issues with em for over 30k miles
you can do the shafts with the motor in the car. just with some creative use of an engine puller to get it to drop down enough
being that the shafts are chain driven along with the water pump. you lose that chain, or a gear. you lose the pump as well. not good!
78lb springs are peachy actually. zero issues with em for over 30k miles
Last edited by hungryhip-ccp; 03-20-2009 at 03:35 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
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newp. wsfrasier, witt, djt.
im not treating this one like a dsm in my past and doing that balance shaft delete bearing rotate thing. this is pretty much what seems to me you're trying to do. iono
im not treating this one like a dsm in my past and doing that balance shaft delete bearing rotate thing. this is pretty much what seems to me you're trying to do. iono
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spend the money on the shafts. i wouldn't half ass anything inside the motor. im still on stock shafts right now. i need to sell some more lsj parts to cover the cost of the shafts.
you can do the shafts with the motor in the car. just with some creative use of an engine puller to get it to drop down enough
being that the shafts are chain driven along with the water pump. you lose that chain, or a gear. you lose the pump as well. not good!
78lb springs are peachy actually. zero issues with em for over 30k miles
you can do the shafts with the motor in the car. just with some creative use of an engine puller to get it to drop down enough
being that the shafts are chain driven along with the water pump. you lose that chain, or a gear. you lose the pump as well. not good!
78lb springs are peachy actually. zero issues with em for over 30k miles
you do the seals while you were in there? i found em for $37.
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Why do you feel the need to rev the Eco that high?
Anyways... the balance shafts are actually unbalanced to vibrate in a way that counters the vibration from the normal engine operation. The shafts actually spin at twice the RPM of the engine... so basically at 7000 RPM, those unbalanced shafts are spinning at 14,000 RPM. Spin them too fast, and they'll fail from the excessive vibration.
Anyways... the balance shafts are actually unbalanced to vibrate in a way that counters the vibration from the normal engine operation. The shafts actually spin at twice the RPM of the engine... so basically at 7000 RPM, those unbalanced shafts are spinning at 14,000 RPM. Spin them too fast, and they'll fail from the excessive vibration.
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Why do you feel the need to rev the Eco that high?
Anyways... the balance shafts are actually unbalanced to vibrate in a way that counters the vibration from the normal engine operation. The shafts actually spin at twice the RPM of the engine... so basically at 7000 RPM, those unbalanced shafts are spinning at 14,000 RPM. Spin them too fast, and they'll fail from the excessive vibration.
Anyways... the balance shafts are actually unbalanced to vibrate in a way that counters the vibration from the normal engine operation. The shafts actually spin at twice the RPM of the engine... so basically at 7000 RPM, those unbalanced shafts are spinning at 14,000 RPM. Spin them too fast, and they'll fail from the excessive vibration.
/sarcasm
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so the balance shafts arent balanced? who would of thought...
but on a more serious note, im looking to rev to 7800 rpm in first to help the 1-2 transition... then i plan on taking third to the line so i wont have to shift to 4th during a pass...
but on a more serious note, im looking to rev to 7800 rpm in first to help the 1-2 transition... then i plan on taking third to the line so i wont have to shift to 4th during a pass...
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