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High Rpm hesitation, stops pulling, cold holding revs

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Old 07-31-2013, 08:58 PM
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High Rpm hesitation, stops pulling, cold holding revs

Well, I've been having this problem for a while and blew it off for the longest time. I finally went searching on here the other day and can't find exactly what I'm looking for. I have read about several similar problems and have done some things with no solution. My main problem is that when I get on it, it pulls nice and hard until maybe 4-5k rpm, then it takes forever to get to redline. You can feel the power just kind of drop off. I just put a new fuel filter and spark plugs in and those hardly helped any. The only modification that I am aware of is an intake which came on the car when I bought it. I read that there is a chance that it could be a clogged cat but I don't know how to test this and I'm at 98k miles and was told that Chevy covers the cat to 100k. If it is the cat I'd like to get it figured out and replaced under warranty but I don't know how to find out if it is the cat. Another small problem is that when the motor is cold, it will rev itself when I shift. Say that I'm at 2500k rpm in 2nd, when I push in the clutch to shift into 3rd, the car will rev to 2600-2700rpm and then fall like normal. I plan on possibly going ZZP stage 3 and would like to get things figured out before I dump money into it. It's pretty sad when my buddy's Scion Tc pulls pretty hard on me....
Old 07-31-2013, 09:11 PM
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Check your plugs. Spark blowout or clogged cat could be.
Second thing you mentioned doesn't really sound like a problem.
Old 07-31-2013, 09:18 PM
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Also pull out your MAF Sensor and check it thoroughly and go ahead an clean it. My car was doing this in 3rd gear on up in the frequency range for some reason. Cleaned it and haven't had it do it since. But mine was like hitting a brickwall and I had to get out of it. Yours could be spark plug blow out what are they gapped to? If it was a clogged cat your boost would be higher than normal. Is it?

Also forgot to add go ahead and clean the TB and sensor

Last edited by Bad-A-SS; 07-31-2013 at 09:18 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
Old 07-31-2013, 09:36 PM
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Originally Posted by Bad-A-SS
Also pull out your MAF Sensor and check it thoroughly and go ahead an clean it. My car was doing this in 3rd gear on up in the frequency range for some reason. Cleaned it and haven't had it do it since. But mine was like hitting a brickwall and I had to get out of it. Yours could be spark plug blow out what are they gapped to? If it was a clogged cat your boost would be higher than normal. Is it?

Also forgot to add go ahead and clean the TB and sensor
What do I check the maf sensor for? Never messed with one before....
And the plugs are gapped at stock specs, .040 i believe. The old ones were gapped at something like .052 or something like that
Old 07-31-2013, 09:38 PM
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Wowzah Um gap them down to at least .032 then go from there and just check for build up on the little sensors in it.
Old 07-31-2013, 09:56 PM
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Originally Posted by Bad-A-SS
Wowzah Um gap them down to at least .032 then go from there and just check for build up on the little sensors in it.
Some places are saying dont gap them, some are saying .35-.38 is the smallest you would want to go, even with bolt ons. You say .32 stock. The manual says .40-.45 stock. I wish I could just get a for sure answer....
Old 07-31-2013, 09:59 PM
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Ok well if you feel that a .032 is too small go with the .035 that's what I ran stock
Old 07-31-2013, 10:13 PM
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.040 is stock. I'm running a stock heat range on a pullied and bigger injector car on .040 and no spark blowout to 7200rpm.

A .035-.038 is a safe bet for them to work, if spark blowout is your problem.
Old 08-08-2013, 07:53 PM
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Just in case anybody comes back on this thread with the same problem. I cleaned the mass air flow sensor and the throttle body and the problem has disappeared. She hauls some ass again!!!
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