intermediate steering shaft
not hard depending on how much rust you have on the gear side joint. Will need a alignment after unless you want to trial and error top joint alignment.
steering shaft.pdf
steering shaft.pdf
Joined: 05-15-11
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From: Livonia, MI
Why would you need an alignment? The tie rod ends never came off... The shaft on the steering gear has flat spots on it. As long as the steering is straight when you take it off and put it back together the same way there is no need for an alignment.
Joined: 05-15-11
Posts: 27,333
Likes: 584
From: Livonia, MI
Then get under the car with a screw driver or extension and a hammer and beat it off (upward)
Then inside the car, same 13mm bolt and pry the shaft off the column.
Reverse process to install.
I would recommend an oem replacement instead of an "ebay" one. The dorman ones can be found for around $90 on Ebay.
Joined: 05-15-11
Posts: 27,333
Likes: 584
From: Livonia, MI
Its kinda hard to get the wheel to lock in the correct orientation for removing the bolt. I would suggest removing the bolts and then locking the wheel if that makes you more comfortable.
you don't have to as long as you can get it back lined up since the top joint to the column doesn't have a set location like the gear does. ive had to move a spline or two before to get it just right and have had some that just would not line up.
Last edited by Kolt; Jul 9, 2018 at 06:58 PM.
I agree on the doorman unit. Unless you want to chance having to do it again. The doorman shaft is also a upgraded unit. Install is how others have said. Factory ones can be froze in there pretty tight. I never seized mine when putting it back together and have had it off since with little effort.
Don't wait too long, I actually broke one that was getting sloppy, and you lose your steering when that happens!
Don't wait too long, I actually broke one that was getting sloppy, and you lose your steering when that happens!
I agree on the doorman unit. Unless you want to chance having to do it again. The doorman shaft is also a upgraded unit. Install is how others have said. Factory ones can be froze in there pretty tight. I never seized mine when putting it back together and have had it off since with little effort.
Don't wait too long, I actually broke one that was getting sloppy, and you lose your steering when that happens!
Don't wait too long, I actually broke one that was getting sloppy, and you lose your steering when that happens!
Thankfully when I lost one in my Cherokee I was at a stoplight trying to turn, and it didn't. Blew the clock spring assembly also. Went home and checked my truck and 1 of the bearing cups was rotted off of it too so it was on its way out.
Joined: 05-15-11
Posts: 27,333
Likes: 584
From: Livonia, MI
First time I separated my shaft from the steering rack I had a hell of a time getting it to break loose. A lot of cussing and questioning if I was actually doing it right.
Column.pdf
well i went to do this today and right when i took the wheel off i could see that the sway bar end links i put on, the nut backed off. i put some blue loctite on it and its back to normal so i'll just put the steering shaft on the shelf.
i should've checked before i bought it but i dont have time to do much and it'll probably need it eventually i plan on keeping the car for a long time as a driver. it gets driven a lot everyday
I saw a video of someone putting a wrench right on the input shaft to the rack and and move it back and forth and could identify the clunk. Wish I would have done that to know if it is the column or rack. I think mine is the rack as it does not sound like it is from inside the cabin at all. I even checked the sway bar bushings and those look good and solid.
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