New clutch at 14'000K? Don't Think so.
Thread Starter
New Member
Joined: 06-17-08
Posts: 10
Likes: 0
From: Edmonton, AB
New clutch at 14'000K? Don't Think so.
I bought my 07' Balt ss/sc in december last year.
At 6'000k i brought it in because it would grind going into reverse. I understand a clutch needs time for "spin down". Is it supposed to take close to 30 seconds for a clutch to spin down? i don't think so...
Seemingly so, i picked the car up later that day, and the dealership blamed it on my aftermarket floor matts. Give me a break they were in no way shape or form restricting full depression of my clutch pedal. Well its been four months now, with 14'000k on it, and needs a new clutch.
I'm topping up brake fluid every 3 - 4 days. my understanding of this hydraulic clutch system is that the clutch master and slave cylinder feed off of the brake master - None of my calipers are leaking, there is no sweat on any lines. My guess is that the slave cylinder
is leaking inside of the trans, coating the clutch disc in oil, thuss causing it to slip. I know how i drive my car and i know how a clutch works. My clutch still catches at the same point as if it were brand new.
On the highway between 2500 and 3500rpm, when i throw the hammer down, it'll slip about 500 rpm and RE CATCH. Now we all know how a clutch works. If the clutch were warn like the dealership claims, the clutch would not RECATCH itself and throw the car forward. It would slip indefinately until you let off the throttle enough for the clutch to match engine speed, and finally grab.
My guess is that because the clutch disc is soaked in oil, the clutch slips, produces enough heat through friction to burn the oil off, and recatch..
Anyone have any input or similar problems????
the dealership quoted $2'200 CAD for a new clutch.
= BULLSHIT.
At 6'000k i brought it in because it would grind going into reverse. I understand a clutch needs time for "spin down". Is it supposed to take close to 30 seconds for a clutch to spin down? i don't think so...
Seemingly so, i picked the car up later that day, and the dealership blamed it on my aftermarket floor matts. Give me a break they were in no way shape or form restricting full depression of my clutch pedal. Well its been four months now, with 14'000k on it, and needs a new clutch.
I'm topping up brake fluid every 3 - 4 days. my understanding of this hydraulic clutch system is that the clutch master and slave cylinder feed off of the brake master - None of my calipers are leaking, there is no sweat on any lines. My guess is that the slave cylinder
is leaking inside of the trans, coating the clutch disc in oil, thuss causing it to slip. I know how i drive my car and i know how a clutch works. My clutch still catches at the same point as if it were brand new.
On the highway between 2500 and 3500rpm, when i throw the hammer down, it'll slip about 500 rpm and RE CATCH. Now we all know how a clutch works. If the clutch were warn like the dealership claims, the clutch would not RECATCH itself and throw the car forward. It would slip indefinately until you let off the throttle enough for the clutch to match engine speed, and finally grab.
My guess is that because the clutch disc is soaked in oil, the clutch slips, produces enough heat through friction to burn the oil off, and recatch..
Anyone have any input or similar problems????
the dealership quoted $2'200 CAD for a new clutch.
= BULLSHIT.
Thread Starter
New Member
Joined: 06-17-08
Posts: 10
Likes: 0
From: Edmonton, AB
oh ya i know its stupid. i'll just do it myself.
if i can get it done for free though i will.
im going to put up a fight about it though.
they have a process to go through, its easy enough to just blame it on a clutch
they didn't diagnose it properly and it pisses me off that these guys just brush you off
if i can get it done for free though i will.
im going to put up a fight about it though.
they have a process to go through, its easy enough to just blame it on a clutch
they didn't diagnose it properly and it pisses me off that these guys just brush you off
Senior Member
Joined: 06-28-06
Posts: 2,212
Likes: 2
From: Ontario,Canada
You have indeed cracked your casing that leads into the bellhousing.
This is a known issue for gm and they will deny you warranty based on abuse !
Wheel hop seems to be the cause.It stresses the case and a weak spot in the tranny case splits open.
Ive seen pic and in my opinion is a definite casting flaw which under normal circumstances will not crack but repeated hammering when driving through wheel hop stresses it enough to split .
You will need a new casing and your clutch plates will be ruined as well.
Very costly.
This is a known issue for gm and they will deny you warranty based on abuse !
Wheel hop seems to be the cause.It stresses the case and a weak spot in the tranny case splits open.
Ive seen pic and in my opinion is a definite casting flaw which under normal circumstances will not crack but repeated hammering when driving through wheel hop stresses it enough to split .
You will need a new casing and your clutch plates will be ruined as well.
Very costly.
Member
Joined: 02-18-08
Posts: 258
Likes: 0
From: pennsylvania
i have 32000 on ym car and my stock clutch is holding up beautifuly
and as heavily modded as i am im quite surprised
and as heavily modded as i am im quite surprised
Last edited by C0baltWithM0ds; Jun 17, 2008 at 07:24 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
Senior Member
Joined: 05-27-07
Posts: 1,547
Likes: 0
From: USA
At 5k, my clutch was also replaced under warranty by the dealer for the same exact reason.
Senior Member
Joined: 05-02-06
Posts: 1,848
Likes: 0
From: Auburn Hills, MI
just be glad they took it under warranty
and your not the first to be blamed for aftermarket floormats i have seen other people get that, must have happened to one dealer and they wrote a whole TSB about it and thats the "ez way out" for the dealer
New Member
Joined: 04-07-07
Posts: 60
Likes: 0
From: Long Island, NY
Lost my Clutch and Flywheel simultaneously at 4,000 miles, dealer warrantied the clutch and repair but charged me $200 for a flywheel... I could have fought it but then Id have to get the court involved and such (07 SS/SC) im currently going after chevy im at 40k miles cause I have to drive to work monday through friday, I lost my Passenger side axle on Friday 7/18 after I had been complaining for 20k miles of a clicking sound then "Thoroughly inspected my vehicle" and green checks on the multi-point and have agreed to Honor all my body damager from the incident and repair all mechanical parts~ Just have to go in there and put your foot down, threaten to call the BBB or Consumer Affairs... even the Chevrolet Customer Service, they dont want that going around and will work with you especially when it is still under warranty
Senior Member
Joined: 08-11-08
Posts: 1,595
Likes: 0
From: douglas AZ
i had the same problem found a mechanic cheaper piece of **** mechanic didnt fix anythinng in fact they almost broke my trans as well clutch wasnt fix i threaten to sue took the police and took my car by force and yet they still wanted me to pay and all they did was acted like they werent resposible so i did it my self and i shouldve of sued cause they got sued for 3,000 and i tried to sued and they sold there company
Haz l33t wheelz.
Joined: 09-14-07
Posts: 18,883
Likes: 3
From: Costa Mesa CA
i had the same problem found a mechanic cheaper piece of **** mechanic didnt fix anythinng in fact they almost broke my trans as well clutch wasnt fix i threaten to sue took the police and took my car by force and yet they still wanted me to pay and all they did was acted like they werent resposible so i did it my self and i shouldve of sued cause they got sued for 3,000 and i tried to sued and they sold there company
Rent me! per hour
Joined: 03-22-07
Posts: 24,161
Likes: 20
From: Still fixing others mistakes.
im at 340+ whp and 48k miles on the stock clutch. granted there are issues that out of peoples control. slave going back and leaking. if the slave is bad, then it will take out the PP and disk. they should be replaced as well at the same time.
New Member
Joined: 09-01-06
Posts: 106
Likes: 0
From: Michigan
Take it from a dealer guy. You can't legally prove abuse unless the car is literally torn to shreds. As many times as I'd like to say "shove it" to a customer because WE can tell that it's abused, as soon as they call the Manuf. we'll end up replacing whatever it is anyway.
If they say you're abusing your car because your trans is fucked, be calm and tell them to eat one. 2,3, and 4th gears in my trans were replaced under warranty @ 44,000 miles. There were teeth missing and bearings were wasted. And they want you to put a clutch in CP? No way Jose.
If they say you're abusing your car because your trans is fucked, be calm and tell them to eat one. 2,3, and 4th gears in my trans were replaced under warranty @ 44,000 miles. There were teeth missing and bearings were wasted. And they want you to put a clutch in CP? No way Jose.
Senior Member
Joined: 06-03-07
Posts: 14,142
Likes: 71
From: NY
Take it from a dealer guy. You can't legally prove abuse unless the car is literally torn to shreds. As many times as I'd like to say "shove it" to a customer because WE can tell that it's abused, as soon as they call the Manuf. we'll end up replacing whatever it is anyway.
If they say you're abusing your car because your trans is fucked, be calm and tell them to eat one. 2,3, and 4th gears in my trans were replaced under warranty @ 44,000 miles. There were teeth missing and bearings were wasted. And they want you to put a clutch in CP? No way Jose.
If they say you're abusing your car because your trans is fucked, be calm and tell them to eat one. 2,3, and 4th gears in my trans were replaced under warranty @ 44,000 miles. There were teeth missing and bearings were wasted. And they want you to put a clutch in CP? No way Jose.
New Member
Joined: 09-01-06
Posts: 106
Likes: 0
From: Michigan
agreed esp if your writer and director are both ********. but usually once corp is involved they will cave. persistance is key. better than givin up, right? and if that doesn't work, off to the next dealer.
Senior Member
Joined: 05-27-07
Posts: 1,547
Likes: 0
From: USA
Here's a section of an article written by a lawyer regarding Manufacturers Warranties and the Magnuson Act (it's about Mustang Warranties, but the same applies to all):
Ford Mustang Warranties - Your Mustang Warranty and the Law
http://www.musclemustangfastfords.co...y/the_law.html
The Law: What You Need to Know.
There is hope for the consumer, and it's called the Magnuson-Moss Warranty Improvement Act of 1975, codified as Title 15 of the United States Code, Sections 2301 through 2312. It is a federal law, so it applies everywhere in the United States. As with nearly all written laws, there's a lot of legal mumbo jumbo in this statute, but the important provision lies in Section 2302(c):
"No warrantor of a consumer product may condition his written or implied warranty of such product on the consumer's using, in connection with such product, any article or service (other than article or service provided without charge under the terms of the warranty) which is identified by brand, trade, or corporate name . . ."
What this says is that the manufacturer (warrantor) can't refuse to honor its warranty if the consumer uses products made by third parties (i.e., aftermarket companies), unless the manufacturer offers the consumer an equivalent product for free. Since by all accounts Ford doesn't hand out free big-bore throttle bodies, we can safely take this to mean that one may install a Brand-X 90mm throttle body without it voiding one's vehicle warranty.
Though the main intent of Congress here was clearly to promote competition in the marketplace for replacement parts (e.g., to prevent Ford from requiring you to only use Motorcraft oil filters), hop-up goodies also fall under the act's purview. Hard to believe, but it would seem the Feds actually care about hobbyists like ourselves. Although the reasons they give a damn may be rooted purely in antitrust and capitalism, we'll take what we can get.
The Magnuson-Moss Act flies in the proverbial face of Ford and its dealerships that say your warranty has been completely voided because you've installed aftermarket parts. Indeed, this federal law states exactly what we've been stressing: that the warranty has not been voided, and Ford will have to repair the Ford parts in question provided the aftermarket part didn't cause the problem. This legal synopsis is easy enough to say, but it's also easy enough for it to come back and haunt you. Go into a dealership screaming and yelling "Magnuson-Moss" like it's bloody murder, and perhaps even throwing a copy of this article at them, and you've greatly increased your chance that the service department will continue to dishonor your claim, or maybe even go ahead and void your warranty in Ford's system-if they haven't done so already. We'll discuss some more appropriate procedures we recommend for going about such a confrontation-though we wish it would be so easy, simple mention of federal law generally won't do the trick.
The Act also allows companies to set up informal dispute resolution mechanisms that must be pursued before going to court. We mean "informal" in the sense that while structured, these mechanisms aren't bound by rules of evidence, procedure, or legal precedent. Ford has taken full advantage of this in its use of the so-called Dispute Settlement Board (DSB). Administered in cooperation with the Better Business Bureau, this system essentially uses a third-party arbitrator to decide the case between you and Ford. If the decision comes out favorable to you, you can accept the decision, have it enforced, and give up any right to subsequently go to court on the issue. If the arbitrator's decision comes out unfavorable to you, you can reject it and are free to pursue other legal remedies, i.e., taking Ford to Federal Court.
Although Ford can't force you to go through the DSB mechanism before taking action in a state court (for example, a small-claims action or a contract action), the corporation can make you do it before taking it to Federal Court under the Magnuson-Moss Act. This may be a good thing, though, because use of the DSB comes free of charge, and you just may get what you want before having to plunk down the complaint filing fee at the local United States District Court. Though Mustang owners we've spoken to say the DSB system is "stacked against you," anyone would have to agree that an imperfect system is better than having no system whatsoever-unless, of course, you're an anarchist.
Ford Mustang Warranties - Your Mustang Warranty and the Law
http://www.musclemustangfastfords.co...y/the_law.html
The Law: What You Need to Know.
There is hope for the consumer, and it's called the Magnuson-Moss Warranty Improvement Act of 1975, codified as Title 15 of the United States Code, Sections 2301 through 2312. It is a federal law, so it applies everywhere in the United States. As with nearly all written laws, there's a lot of legal mumbo jumbo in this statute, but the important provision lies in Section 2302(c):
"No warrantor of a consumer product may condition his written or implied warranty of such product on the consumer's using, in connection with such product, any article or service (other than article or service provided without charge under the terms of the warranty) which is identified by brand, trade, or corporate name . . ."
What this says is that the manufacturer (warrantor) can't refuse to honor its warranty if the consumer uses products made by third parties (i.e., aftermarket companies), unless the manufacturer offers the consumer an equivalent product for free. Since by all accounts Ford doesn't hand out free big-bore throttle bodies, we can safely take this to mean that one may install a Brand-X 90mm throttle body without it voiding one's vehicle warranty.
Though the main intent of Congress here was clearly to promote competition in the marketplace for replacement parts (e.g., to prevent Ford from requiring you to only use Motorcraft oil filters), hop-up goodies also fall under the act's purview. Hard to believe, but it would seem the Feds actually care about hobbyists like ourselves. Although the reasons they give a damn may be rooted purely in antitrust and capitalism, we'll take what we can get.
The Magnuson-Moss Act flies in the proverbial face of Ford and its dealerships that say your warranty has been completely voided because you've installed aftermarket parts. Indeed, this federal law states exactly what we've been stressing: that the warranty has not been voided, and Ford will have to repair the Ford parts in question provided the aftermarket part didn't cause the problem. This legal synopsis is easy enough to say, but it's also easy enough for it to come back and haunt you. Go into a dealership screaming and yelling "Magnuson-Moss" like it's bloody murder, and perhaps even throwing a copy of this article at them, and you've greatly increased your chance that the service department will continue to dishonor your claim, or maybe even go ahead and void your warranty in Ford's system-if they haven't done so already. We'll discuss some more appropriate procedures we recommend for going about such a confrontation-though we wish it would be so easy, simple mention of federal law generally won't do the trick.
The Act also allows companies to set up informal dispute resolution mechanisms that must be pursued before going to court. We mean "informal" in the sense that while structured, these mechanisms aren't bound by rules of evidence, procedure, or legal precedent. Ford has taken full advantage of this in its use of the so-called Dispute Settlement Board (DSB). Administered in cooperation with the Better Business Bureau, this system essentially uses a third-party arbitrator to decide the case between you and Ford. If the decision comes out favorable to you, you can accept the decision, have it enforced, and give up any right to subsequently go to court on the issue. If the arbitrator's decision comes out unfavorable to you, you can reject it and are free to pursue other legal remedies, i.e., taking Ford to Federal Court.
Although Ford can't force you to go through the DSB mechanism before taking action in a state court (for example, a small-claims action or a contract action), the corporation can make you do it before taking it to Federal Court under the Magnuson-Moss Act. This may be a good thing, though, because use of the DSB comes free of charge, and you just may get what you want before having to plunk down the complaint filing fee at the local United States District Court. Though Mustang owners we've spoken to say the DSB system is "stacked against you," anyone would have to agree that an imperfect system is better than having no system whatsoever-unless, of course, you're an anarchist.
Senior Member
Joined: 06-22-08
Posts: 1,320
Likes: 0
From: PA
I bought my 07' Balt ss/sc in december last year.
At 6'000k i brought it in because it would grind going into reverse. I understand a clutch needs time for "spin down". Is it supposed to take close to 30 seconds for a clutch to spin down? i don't think so...
Seemingly so, i picked the car up later that day, and the dealership blamed it on my aftermarket floor matts. Give me a break they were in no way shape or form restricting full depression of my clutch pedal. Well its been four months now, with 14'000k on it, and needs a new clutch.
I'm topping up brake fluid every 3 - 4 days. my understanding of this hydraulic clutch system is that the clutch master and slave cylinder feed off of the brake master - None of my calipers are leaking, there is no sweat on any lines. My guess is that the slave cylinder
is leaking inside of the trans, coating the clutch disc in oil, thuss causing it to slip. I know how i drive my car and i know how a clutch works. My clutch still catches at the same point as if it were brand new.
On the highway between 2500 and 3500rpm, when i throw the hammer down, it'll slip about 500 rpm and RE CATCH. Now we all know how a clutch works. If the clutch were warn like the dealership claims, the clutch would not RECATCH itself and throw the car forward. It would slip indefinately until you let off the throttle enough for the clutch to match engine speed, and finally grab.
My guess is that because the clutch disc is soaked in oil, the clutch slips, produces enough heat through friction to burn the oil off, and recatch..
Anyone have any input or similar problems????
the dealership quoted $2'200 CAD for a new clutch.
= BULLSHIT.
At 6'000k i brought it in because it would grind going into reverse. I understand a clutch needs time for "spin down". Is it supposed to take close to 30 seconds for a clutch to spin down? i don't think so...
Seemingly so, i picked the car up later that day, and the dealership blamed it on my aftermarket floor matts. Give me a break they were in no way shape or form restricting full depression of my clutch pedal. Well its been four months now, with 14'000k on it, and needs a new clutch.
I'm topping up brake fluid every 3 - 4 days. my understanding of this hydraulic clutch system is that the clutch master and slave cylinder feed off of the brake master - None of my calipers are leaking, there is no sweat on any lines. My guess is that the slave cylinder
is leaking inside of the trans, coating the clutch disc in oil, thuss causing it to slip. I know how i drive my car and i know how a clutch works. My clutch still catches at the same point as if it were brand new.
On the highway between 2500 and 3500rpm, when i throw the hammer down, it'll slip about 500 rpm and RE CATCH. Now we all know how a clutch works. If the clutch were warn like the dealership claims, the clutch would not RECATCH itself and throw the car forward. It would slip indefinately until you let off the throttle enough for the clutch to match engine speed, and finally grab.
My guess is that because the clutch disc is soaked in oil, the clutch slips, produces enough heat through friction to burn the oil off, and recatch..
Anyone have any input or similar problems????
the dealership quoted $2'200 CAD for a new clutch.
= BULLSHIT.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post