So I was changing my oil today. Unscrew the plug, let the 6 1/2 quarts of Mobil 1 drain out, after waiting for what seemed like an eternity it finally stopped. Now I have heard of drain plugs stripping, but on an 06? Any ideas on how this could happen? Long story short, I got it out. It had a burr on it so after like 10 minutes of turning it back out with a screwdriver I got it. I thought I was going to have to drill it out. I called GM and they told me there was nothing they could do. So I had to buy a new one, I can't stand this Chevy dealership.

 

I think everyone should go aftermarket lol. Here are the pics.

http://viewmorepics.myspace.com/inde...eID=1576140356

 

Well, I haven't seen snap in half like that, but I've seen lots of stripped ones. I have replaced mine once already too. I think it's due to pneumatic tools being set with their torque too high.

 

Actually until I clicked on the picture, I was afraid he had stripped the threads in the aluminum oil pan, which would have required a new pan to fix it the right way.

I really need to check the torque spec on this. Something tells me its way too easy to over do it.

 

Half of the bolt was still in the pan, I used a wrench. It was just past hand tight when it went.

 

looks to me like someone used an air ratchet, or worse, an impact gun. dammned if i know why, they don't need to be more than hand tight + another 1/4 turn.

 

Thats how I got it from GM the first oil change, they must reefed on that ******. ******* ********, they don't know ****.

 

mine was on super tight after the dealer changed my oil too. i had to use a breaker bar and tap it with a mallet.

to get the filter top off, i ended up using a long extension and my impact wrench set on 60psi.

i can't even begin to list the reasons that isn't safe.

 

My oil cap was tight as hell too, and it was a bitch to get at.

 

on the blown cars, it's a bitch. there is actually a special low-pro socket you can find on ebay for about... $9.

i think it's like a 32 mm, but if you search for cobalt oil, i think it'll show. on the 2.2 and 2.4 it's pretty easy to just drop a regular one on, but i invest in the special one just for ease and to have one more specialty tool.

 

Why do we have such a big oil pan? Is it from the S/C heat or waht?

 

i've always kinda wondered that myself, that is, why the SS/SC takes more oil. i think the last i saw, the pan looked the same on both cars. part of me just wonders if it wouldn't matter if you ran five in it.

 

I wont be the first to try haha

 

being a quart low... worst that'll happen is the oil light'll come on. where is your adventuing spirit?

 

at least it wasn't the pan... damn techs don't know what they're doing... i hand tighten it, and give it the tiniest turn with the wrench...

 

The 2.0s hold 6 quarts because of an oil cooler mounted near the driver side of the head.

The pans on all ecotecs are the same size. I have no idea why they have such a large sump, but am thankful. Having that much more oil allows for safely extended drain intervals etc.

 

yeah, techs dont know how to change oil. please. i would personally rather have a customers drain plug in the pan tight rather than having it fall out driving down the road and having an engine lock up. or getting sued for whatever reason.

 

i just tap on the head of the bolt a little before i turn it off and it helps a lot. i stripped a drainplug on my escort cause i didn't tap on the head of the bolt.

 

If the pan thread were stripped, you wouldn't have to replace the pan. You could have it heli-coiled.

 

If I could get the pan off without pulling the engine, I'd just spring for a new pan. I haven't had a Cobalt up on a lift yet to see what kind of access there is for pan removal.

On the other hand, my old S-10 required complete engine removal to get the oil pan off. And before pulling the engine, it was necessary to raise the body off the frame a few inches to get the block unbolted from the tranny (I'm not sure if it was possible to pull them together - didn't want to find out). Needless to say, I chose to live with the nasty, leaky old rusty oil pan rather than go through all that work to replace it.

 

Replacing an oil pan in a Cobalt is VERY straightforward. There are four bolts hidden by the subframe on the front of the engine but everything else is out in the open. Remove all boltsm the dipstick, and break the pan loose from the block and it falls out.

The hardest part is breaking the damn thing loose from the block as its held on by assembly adhesive.

 

I just let the dealership change the oil, I supply the oil and filter and give them $10. If they **** it up, they pay

 

The Torq for the oil drain plug and the oil filter cap is only 18 ft/lbs.
That is just above finger tight with a 3/8 ratchet.