yesterday i went to accelerate and the car wouldnt pull over 5000rpm, seemed like it was hitting the rev limiter and started spewing black smoke. upon scanning it, i found a p0833, clutch pedal position switch code. im assuming that there is an anti abuse mode that when the clutch pedal is depressed the motor wont rev over 5000rpm. the emissions fuse is fine (according to my gm service manual, the cpp switch uses the emissions fuse. my next step in diagnosing it is to check the power at the switch and the function of it (wich im suspecting is faulty or out of adjustment).

what im asking is, has anyone replaced this switch??? im looking at my manuals and they show the car with the steering colum removed and alldata only gives 0.4 hours to change it, but it looks burried in the dash, i can barley see it. is there some easy way of getting it out, or do i need to pull the colum???

bump for the evening crew. any thoughts???

 

are you talking about the switch that lets the ecu know when the clutch is depressed all the way? or the sensor that lets the ecu know when the clutch is moved at all



theres the one for being depressed all the way.

 

it would be the upper one, the one that tells the pcm that the clutch pedal moved. would be the one that causes the inoperative cruise control. it would be the one not shown in that pic, thats the clutch start switch

 

bump for the morning crew

 

thats why i asked

 

I had the dealer change mine. The switch only cost around $10.00, but I think they took almost a full hour to replace it. I looked at doing it myself, but that switch is WAY up in the dash. It almost looked like the steering column would need to be dropped to get to the switch, but I don't think the dealer did that. Maybe you can remove the lower dash panel and get to it easier that way?

 

how much did the dealer charge you? i just had this code get thrown today...

 

I don't remember for sure, but it was around $10.00 for the switch and probably an hour of labor. I'd guess around $120.00.

 

just got the same code today. i had an issue with the cruise not setting before, but then it worked itself out, me thinks, i will just replace the switch.

anyone got a part number?

bump for part number

 

I pulled out the invoice from when I had mine repaired.

The part number listed on the invoice for the switch is 22734989. The price was $7.38.

Labor: $123.90

 

I'll order that. What site did you get yours from or did you go to the dealer?

Nvm. I found the one my dealer gave me a few months back. Surprising this little piece does this much annoyance. Thanks for the confirmation on this issue bros. I'll install it my next day off.

 

So if i replace this my cruise might work again

 

i had this problem myself... after a few months my CEL went off. problem fixed??? or do i still need to replace this?

 

i ran into this problem the other day.... no cruise, p0833 code

all i did was clear the code and cruise control works again and the cars rpms go up and down like they used to

what can happen is if you tend to drive your car with your foot rested slightly on the clutch pedal, u close the signal to the cpp switch, then the car thinks that swtich itself is shorted out because its always on(because of your foot), trips the code, chaos ensues!

hope that helps, better to try this first before paying a dealer to fix it!

 

my car does not have cruise control (LS) . i was just driving one day and notice that it turned off

 

yea if you replace this, your cruise should work again

i noticed on my car cruise control would stop working and about one or two drives later i would get the CEL

i had GM replace it under warranty (mind you it was a hassle)

 

Just got mine today for 7 bucks

 

i havent gotten a code yet, but ever since ive had the car, if i rev it up, the rpms stay up high forever, then slowly come down.
im assuming mine is on the way out and needs to be replaced

 

the first thing that you have to do is disconnect the batter.

secondly wait ten to fifteen minutes. ( this is so the airbag doesn't go off while disconnecting the steering wheel harnesses.)

Third take the lower dash off. it just pops off. don't forget to take the trunk button off.

fourth take the plastic off around the steering wheel. disconnect all the connections for the horn turn signals etc...

fifth you have to start taking the steering column out. make sure that the timing bolt is marked for when you put it back in. there are five bolts to take out the steering column.

sixth is optional. take the clutch pedal out. i didn't do this. I just put a weight to hold the clutch down so i could get to the switch.

 

^ Do none of that.

I've snaked my arm up in there plenty of times to get those switches. You have to move the driver's seat all the way back and reach up on the left side of the clutch pedal bracket and just feel for the switch.

You'll get a little cut up but its worth saving the time removing the pedal bracket etc.

 

I had the same problem and just fixed it today. Hopefully this helps if someone runs into this in the future:

I tried going up the right side but ended up cutting up my hand pretty bad and couldnt get the connector on. So I tried the long way but it really didnt take much time. All together, it took less than an hour to take the steering column out and replace the switch. You get direct access with it out, and its much easier. 2 bolts holding the column to the dash frame, and one through the column (perpendicular) for the tilt, and 1 bolt holding clamped on the splines. The dash pops right off and the connectors are self explanatory.

 

PLEASE HELP!!
I've run into this similar problem. My cruise control hasn't worked in years and I am determined to fix it.
(i've recently fixed a boat load of parts and problems in my car (including the broken sunroof parts...such a headache but works great now)
I've purchased a new CPP switch but cannot manage to get to the damn switch no matter what I do.
ALLDATADIY.COM claims the steps are simple:
1. Remove the clutch pedal pivot nut
2. Depress the tabs of the clutch master cylinder pushrod retainer and release the clutch pedal from the pushrod.
3. Remove the clutch pedal bracket to front of dash nuts.
4. Lower the clutch pedal assembly slightly and disconnect the electrical connector from the clutch pedal position (CPP) switch, then remove the assembly.

Step 1 seems impossible!! Mind boggling!
The pivot nut is almost impossible to reach with a tool. I can get an open end wrench on it but can't move it more than 1/8" in either direction. The other side of the pivot nut (where a bolt head should be) is in fact a flat, smooth rounded surface. So there's nothing to grip to. Any turning of the pivot nut just spins that smooth rounded "bolt head". and therefore I cannot access the CCP switch.

Is there a way to remove this pivot nut?
Is there a way to get to the CPP switch without removing the steering column? the only mechanic experience I have are jobs that I've learned through this forum (which are many, and muchhh apreciated, but still have my limitations)

ANY advice will be GREATLY appreciated

 

I've had this p0833 problem for months, and my cruise never works , and when I shift my rpm don't go down. When my mechanic said he didn't know what to do , i told him i would replace the clutch switch because i knew I had a p0833 code anyways. He cleared the codes and the car went back to driving the way it should, until a week ago. Now I'm thinking it must be the Switch up inside the dash; the one your talking about. Are both the switches the same? That would make things way easy, because i just bought a new switch. This One: 2007 CHEVROLET COBALT 2.4L L4 Clutch Pedal Position / Starter Safety Switch | RockAuto
Is this the right switch for up there>?

 

It's the one with the part number 22734989.
Sorry for not responding sooner; I haven't found the "my posts" link since the forum was updated last.