that sucks big time man...

 

The fact is crankcase pressures are not really excessive, it's just that under higher boost/rpm levels the pressure exceeds the limits of the mere O-ringed seal interface on the dipstick. Some have successfully used a larger O-ring on the stick or even wire tie it so it stays put- works for most.On a number of the cars I work with we just created another dipstick (calibrated to the same crankcase oil level of course) with a rubber stopper that expands when you give the T-handle a turn or two.If you're on a 2.5 or 2.6" and racing- you might also try adding a filter onto the fitting on the back of the valve cover and get rid of that entire hose (plug it at the inlet or CAI fitting) Like the one you see here on a 2.2
HTH
Wop

 

Based on what facts? GM did not tune for a 2.8, neither did you. The more power you make, the less room you have to err before something bad happens. ALWAYS tune for your current setup.

 

In the process of getting my setup tuned but its a slow process appeartly in ontario.

Based upon others runnin 2.5" pulleys and nos, without a tune. Lead me to believe that a 2.8 on gm stage 2 would be ok and the moment I got the 2.8, started this thread.

https://www.cobaltss.net/forums/show...ontario+tuning

notice i used the word "massive" not "any" when referencing problems

And for the last time I HAD THIS PROBLEM BEFORE THE 2.8!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

Anyone running a 2.5" without tuning won't be running it for long.

 

LOL Tim ran like that for a day , as for WOP... man take a chill pill. he was stating a problem he was having BEFORE the 2.8. Meaning a GM product that was using a 3.0" pulley using a certified GM tune kept making his dipstick blow out before the 2.8".

Now I cannot speak for P7X but the ecotec is driving me absolutely nuts! I have two cobalts, one SS and one LT sedan, both with the same share of problems. No I don't have mommy and daddy paying for my ****, I pay for my own **** on a megar salary.. the SS just has an intake and custom exhaust (far cry from real performance and not enough changes to warrant all the issues I am having) and my sedan is STOCK.

I cannot find for the life of me a dealership (let alone a real mechanic) that I would ever trust bringing my car to on a daily basis. Too many ignorant people who work at GM shops anymore to be honest.. it's fun bringing my car in 3 times for the same hvac seal they can't seem to put on right the first time, or ghetto rigging my sunroof, trim pieces in my car or the best one was half assing my tires back on without all the lugnuts fully secured

These supposed "ASE Certified Mechanics" that work at these places hardly go thru the same training people once did back in the day to become a "real" mechanic and be certified in the work they do. I live in the "Motor City" you would think that the same place for GM, Ford and others who make it a point to have people work for there company or represent the company would be knowledgeable in what they do, far from it.

 

hey WOP

I know once my car is tuned, I'll be building quite a significant amount of boost, even after my full back exhaust, do you think that just a breather filter will be enough to releive the extra backpressure?

 

WOP

Dude you do know a lot about cars but please stop acting like an *******. There is no sense in you running your mouth in that manner. The guy is having issues with his car. He didn't ask for a smart assed comment about it he just asked for help. This place is here for venting and venting is what he did. Generally you are very eager to help and not such a bastard so I don't know what your problem is today. Facts are facts whether you work for GM and get all butt hurt about it or not. Fact is I have only found one dealership in all my years dealing with GM that has competent and hard working techs. Usually you will either find a hard working but not competent tech or a competent tech that is lazy as ****. It is a major problem with dealerships and the big 3 in general. This being one of the many reasons american auto makers are going in the *******. So let's not act like GM or any of the Big 3 have no blame. I mean when you take your car in and both headlamps are covered in fog and moisture and they tell you that it is supposed to do that what is one to think ? This is what I was told. I took my car in for the tensioner on the timing belt and they told me it was my torque brace ? So I had to take it all the way to the one dealership that knew what the hell they were talking about. In summary you are a fairlyc cool dude with a lot of knowledge but don't go shitting on people.


Frank

 

Player
I think you're confusing crankcase pressure with exhaust back pressure. 2 different things. Crankcase pressure is a result of blow-by past your piston seal and pressurizing the crankcase. This is the pressure normally controlled by the crankcase ventilation system. The Ecotec block has vents that pass right through from the crankcase to the deck and allow this pressure to be routed up into the head, and the gasses reintroduced into the intake manifold (and subsequently burned during combustion) through an orifice valve that controls the flow and also affects the peak pressure to some extent. In order to do this without pulling down into a vacuum it needs a filtered fresh air inlet as well. (The hose that runs from the back of your cam cover to your intake).

As you increase cylinder pressures, (i.e. through increased CR or peak boost for instance) it increases blow-by AND the crankcase pressures that this system must control (otherwise oil leaks and other oiling issues may occur) When excessive, this pressure can cause the dipstick to be suddenly dislodged resulting in a sudden expunge of a small amount oil out the tube. The dipstick of course must be easily removable and is sealed only by a pair of small O-rings and in a sense acts as a pressure relief valve. So it's not really a problem as in a sense the dipstick is just doing what it was designed to, but the resulting oil loss can cause quite a mess under the hood.

I don't actually recommend ANY modifications to the LSJ ventilation system (other than securing the dipstick) unless your car is a bonfire race car and/or you don't have unreasonable expectations of warranty even though you are modifying and racing your car or even worse attempting to hide that fact to your dealer -how childish. If you can't afford to "pay to play" then maybe you should look to another hobby- perhaps knitting or maybe macramé.

Player if you need more detailed information on modifications that can be made to the system for improved crankcase pressure control under higher than factory boost levels- PM me.
WopOnTour

 

Good info

 

Update - Up and running!

Feels like I drive a ferrari when compared to the malibu. lol