Replacing rear brake pads....
04-05-2007, 10:58 PM
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Replacing rear brake pads....
Well IM @ 23,000 miles, and believe it is time to replace my rear brake pads. I have EBC greens in the front, and just bought a set for the back as well. I had Drum brakes in the back of my old Ford probe so I never really had to change them. In my sentra I had disk and it was a pain in the ass to change them in that car because of the Emergency brake.
How do you change your rear brakes on the SS? I mean, is there a walk through or anything anywhhere? I assume you would want to do one at a time and atleast for the first wheel the other wheel and emergency brake would hold the car in place while on jack stands, but when your done the first wheel and you move on to the second what is keeping your car from rolling?
How do you change your rear brakes on the SS? I mean, is there a walk through or anything anywhhere? I assume you would want to do one at a time and atleast for the first wheel the other wheel and emergency brake would hold the car in place while on jack stands, but when your done the first wheel and you move on to the second what is keeping your car from rolling?
04-06-2007, 10:00 AM
#2
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Either put the whole car on jackstands or put the car in gear and chock the front wheels.
AND - for the record and to save you some time......the calipers in the back are not compressed, they're screw-in. So you'll either need a caliper tool OR you can get on the notches with needle nosed pliers and screw the caliper back in in order to install the pads and get the caliper back on the wheel.
AND - for the record and to save you some time......the calipers in the back are not compressed, they're screw-in. So you'll either need a caliper tool OR you can get on the notches with needle nosed pliers and screw the caliper back in in order to install the pads and get the caliper back on the wheel.
04-06-2007, 10:03 AM
#3
The e-brake on this car is integrated into the caliper, you just change the pads like on the front. As for the car rolling, you should always jack the car up and support it with stands if you are going to be working under it, so it won't go anywhere. Just leave it in gear. Do not leave the e-brake on while removing the rear calipers, they probably won't come off the rotor and if they do they could overextend and blow out. Let me know if you see a difference, i will be adding some Hawk HPS rear pads soon, I already have them on the front with upgraded rotors, the rear is going to get just a pad slap when they get to the indicators.
04-06-2007, 10:17 AM
#4
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No, I can absolutely assure you it's not. If you really want to try and compress a rear piston on a Cobalt, be my guest but you're going to get no where with it. Trust me, I just changed my pads two weeks ago and ran into the exact same issue.
04-06-2007, 01:51 PM
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OK I will park my car in gear, and use wedges to hold the car in place. IM about to start now, so I will let you all know how it goes.
As far as putting them on, I know theres a break in period, but I have a bunch of friends hitting the track up tonight. Any chance I can go or should I really brake my back pads in first?
04-06-2007, 02:01 PM
#6
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Follow what the manufacturer says is proper procedure to bed them in, don't drag them until they're bedded. Being that they're the rears and assuming you bed them properly, you should be good to go for the track, especially since they're rears. Just don't use your e-brake after a run if you want to be extra careful.
04-06-2007, 02:11 PM
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04-06-2007, 02:27 PM
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Rear Disc Brake Pads Replacement
Removal Procedure
1. Inspect the fluid level in the brake master cylinder auxiliary reservoir.
2. If the brake fluid level is midway between the maximum-full point and the minimum allowable level, no brake fluid needs to be removed from the reservoir before proceeding.
3. If the brake fluid level is higher than midway between the maximum-full point and the minimum allowable level, remove brake fluid to the midway point before proceeding.
4. Raise and support the vehicle. Refer to Lifting and Jacking the Vehicle .
5. Remove the tire and wheel assembly. Refer to Tire and Wheel Removal and Installation .
6. Install and firmly hand tighten 2 wheel nuts to opposite wheel studs in order to retain the rotor to the hub.
7. Install a large C-clamp, over the body of the brake caliper with the C-clamp ends against the rear of the caliper body and against the outer brake pad.
Notice: When using a large C-clamp to compress a caliper piston into a caliper bore of a caliper equipped with an integral park brake mechanism, do not exceed more than 1 mm (0.039 in) of piston travel. Exceeding this amount of piston travel will cause damage to the internal adjusting mechanism and/or the integral park brake mechanism.
8. Tighten the C-clamp just enough to compress the caliper piston 1 mm (0.039 in) of travel only.
9. Remove the C-clamp from the caliper.
10. While using a wrench on the flats of the caliper guide pins (1), remove the brake caliper guide pin bolts (2).
Notice: Support the brake caliper with heavy mechanic wire, or equivalent, whenever it is separated from its mount and the hydraulic flexible brake hose is still connected. Failure to support the caliper in this manner will cause the flexible brake hose to bear the weight of the caliper, which may cause damage to the brake hose and in turn may cause a brake fluid leak.
11. Without disconnecting the hydraulic brake flexible hose, remove the caliper from the mounting bracket and secure the caliper with heavy mechanics wire, or equivalent.
12. Remove the brake pads from the caliper mounting bracket.
13. Remove the brake pad retainers (1) from the caliper bracket.
14. Thoroughly clean the brake pad hardware mating surfaces of the caliper bracket (2), of any debris and corrosion.
15. Inspect the brake caliper guide pins for freedom of movement, and inspect the condition of the guide pin boots. Move the guide pins inboard and outboard within the bracket bores, without disengaging the slides from the boots, and observe for the following:
Restricted caliper guide pin movement
Looseness in the brake caliper mounting bracket
Seized or binding caliper guide pins
Split or torn boots
16. If any of the conditions listed are found, the brake caliper guide pins and/or boots require replacement.
17. Using a spanner wrench type caliper piston installer, fully retract the piston into the caliper bore.
Installation Procedure
1. Apply a very thin coating of high temperature silicone brake lubricant to the pad hardware mating surfaces of the caliper bracket (2) only.
2. Install the brake pad retainers (1) to the brake caliper bracket.
Important: The wear sensor equipped disc brake pad must be mounted inboard of the rotor with the leading edge of the sensor facing the brake rotor during forward wheel rotation, or at the bottom of the pad when installed in vehicle position.
3. Install the brake pads to the caliper bracket.
4. Remove the support, and install the caliper into position over the disc brake pads and to the caliper mounting bracket.
5. While using a wrench on the flats of the caliper guide pins (1), install the brake caliper guide pin bolts (2).
Tighten
Tighten the bolts to 34 Nˇm (25 lb ft).
6. Remove the wheel nuts retaining the brake rotor to the hub.
7. Install the tire and wheel assembly. Refer to Tire and Wheel Removal and Installation .
8. Lower the vehicle.
9. With the engine OFF, gradually apply the brake pedal approximately 2/3 of its travel distance.
10. Slowly release the brake pedal.
11. Wait 15 seconds, then gradually apply the brake pedal approximately 2/3 of its travel distance again until a firm brake pedal apply is obtained. This will properly seat the brake caliper pistons and brake pads.
12. Fill the master cylinder auxiliary reservoir to the proper level. Refer to Master Cylinder Reservoir Filling .
13.Burnish the pads and rotors. Refer to Brake Pad and Rotor Burnishing .
Burnishing:
Burnishing the brake pads and brake rotors is necessary in order to ensure that the braking surfaces are properly prepared after service has been performed on the disc brake system.
This procedure should be performed whenever the disc brake rotors have been refinished or replaced, and/or whenever the disc brake pads have been replaced.
1. Select a smooth road with little or no traffic.
2. Accelerate the vehicle to 48 km/h (30 mph).
Important: Use care to avoid overheating the brakes while performing this step.
3. Using moderate to firm pressure, apply the brakes to bring the vehicle to a stop. Do not allow the brakes to lock.
4. Repeat steps 2 and 3 until approximately 20 stops have been completed. Allow sufficient cooling periods between stops in order to properly burnish the brake pads and rotors.
Removal Procedure
1. Inspect the fluid level in the brake master cylinder auxiliary reservoir.
2. If the brake fluid level is midway between the maximum-full point and the minimum allowable level, no brake fluid needs to be removed from the reservoir before proceeding.
3. If the brake fluid level is higher than midway between the maximum-full point and the minimum allowable level, remove brake fluid to the midway point before proceeding.
4. Raise and support the vehicle. Refer to Lifting and Jacking the Vehicle .
5. Remove the tire and wheel assembly. Refer to Tire and Wheel Removal and Installation .
6. Install and firmly hand tighten 2 wheel nuts to opposite wheel studs in order to retain the rotor to the hub.
7. Install a large C-clamp, over the body of the brake caliper with the C-clamp ends against the rear of the caliper body and against the outer brake pad.
Notice: When using a large C-clamp to compress a caliper piston into a caliper bore of a caliper equipped with an integral park brake mechanism, do not exceed more than 1 mm (0.039 in) of piston travel. Exceeding this amount of piston travel will cause damage to the internal adjusting mechanism and/or the integral park brake mechanism.
8. Tighten the C-clamp just enough to compress the caliper piston 1 mm (0.039 in) of travel only.
9. Remove the C-clamp from the caliper.
10. While using a wrench on the flats of the caliper guide pins (1), remove the brake caliper guide pin bolts (2).
Notice: Support the brake caliper with heavy mechanic wire, or equivalent, whenever it is separated from its mount and the hydraulic flexible brake hose is still connected. Failure to support the caliper in this manner will cause the flexible brake hose to bear the weight of the caliper, which may cause damage to the brake hose and in turn may cause a brake fluid leak.
11. Without disconnecting the hydraulic brake flexible hose, remove the caliper from the mounting bracket and secure the caliper with heavy mechanics wire, or equivalent.
12. Remove the brake pads from the caliper mounting bracket.
13. Remove the brake pad retainers (1) from the caliper bracket.
14. Thoroughly clean the brake pad hardware mating surfaces of the caliper bracket (2), of any debris and corrosion.
15. Inspect the brake caliper guide pins for freedom of movement, and inspect the condition of the guide pin boots. Move the guide pins inboard and outboard within the bracket bores, without disengaging the slides from the boots, and observe for the following:
Restricted caliper guide pin movement
Looseness in the brake caliper mounting bracket
Seized or binding caliper guide pins
Split or torn boots
16. If any of the conditions listed are found, the brake caliper guide pins and/or boots require replacement.
17. Using a spanner wrench type caliper piston installer, fully retract the piston into the caliper bore.
Installation Procedure
1. Apply a very thin coating of high temperature silicone brake lubricant to the pad hardware mating surfaces of the caliper bracket (2) only.
2. Install the brake pad retainers (1) to the brake caliper bracket.
Important: The wear sensor equipped disc brake pad must be mounted inboard of the rotor with the leading edge of the sensor facing the brake rotor during forward wheel rotation, or at the bottom of the pad when installed in vehicle position.
3. Install the brake pads to the caliper bracket.
4. Remove the support, and install the caliper into position over the disc brake pads and to the caliper mounting bracket.
5. While using a wrench on the flats of the caliper guide pins (1), install the brake caliper guide pin bolts (2).
Tighten
Tighten the bolts to 34 Nˇm (25 lb ft).
6. Remove the wheel nuts retaining the brake rotor to the hub.
7. Install the tire and wheel assembly. Refer to Tire and Wheel Removal and Installation .
8. Lower the vehicle.
9. With the engine OFF, gradually apply the brake pedal approximately 2/3 of its travel distance.
10. Slowly release the brake pedal.
11. Wait 15 seconds, then gradually apply the brake pedal approximately 2/3 of its travel distance again until a firm brake pedal apply is obtained. This will properly seat the brake caliper pistons and brake pads.
12. Fill the master cylinder auxiliary reservoir to the proper level. Refer to Master Cylinder Reservoir Filling .
13.Burnish the pads and rotors. Refer to Brake Pad and Rotor Burnishing .
Burnishing:
Burnishing the brake pads and brake rotors is necessary in order to ensure that the braking surfaces are properly prepared after service has been performed on the disc brake system.
This procedure should be performed whenever the disc brake rotors have been refinished or replaced, and/or whenever the disc brake pads have been replaced.
1. Select a smooth road with little or no traffic.
2. Accelerate the vehicle to 48 km/h (30 mph).
Important: Use care to avoid overheating the brakes while performing this step.
3. Using moderate to firm pressure, apply the brakes to bring the vehicle to a stop. Do not allow the brakes to lock.
4. Repeat steps 2 and 3 until approximately 20 stops have been completed. Allow sufficient cooling periods between stops in order to properly burnish the brake pads and rotors.
04-06-2007, 02:39 PM
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Thanks for the walkthrough 
but, IM not doing it today. I thought my back bads where toast, but after getting the tires off and looking at them theres still plenty of life in them surprisingly.....
How long are they suppose to last?
IM gonna wait till I get my caliper paint, and then do my brakes and calipers all at once. I still have a few months to go on these pads, so IM just gonna wait and save my green stuff pads for later.
but, IM not doing it today. I thought my back bads where toast, but after getting the tires off and looking at them theres still plenty of life in them surprisingly.....
How long are they suppose to last?
IM gonna wait till I get my caliper paint, and then do my brakes and calipers all at once. I still have a few months to go on these pads, so IM just gonna wait and save my green stuff pads for later.
04-06-2007, 03:41 PM
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Yeah, back pads should last a lot longer than the fronts. After rotating my tires a while back, I'd estimate I'll get at least 40-50k on my front pads, and over 75k on the rears. The rears still look new, and the fronts only showing a little wear. (this was at 17k miles)
Of course, I don't drive the car very hard at all, but I also spend a lot of time in rush hour, so the brakes do get a bit of use.
Of course, I don't drive the car very hard at all, but I also spend a lot of time in rush hour, so the brakes do get a bit of use.
04-20-2008, 05:11 PM
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Rear Brakes Continued.
____________________________________
TO CONFIRM REAR BRAKE CALIPER COMPRESSION. - you indeed compress just a hare. the rest is just turn the rear brake piston in. It was almost effort less. I used a 19mm wrench. on the face of the piston there are two V-shaped cut outs. turn the piston clock wise to get the piston to move inward. DONE.
K all is well getting caliper and caliper holder of the car in order to remove rear rotors. mine are rust pitted and rather than get them cut I decided to just go new.
now for the problem. I cant get rotors off! yep as dumb as that seems I done many brakes but these wont budge.
I have wire brushed the hub, WD40, inspect to ensure nothing else would be holding them on, the secure washers are off (to just confirm the obvious), used hammer.
these are on tight with rust I presume. I think I need a slide hammer but I was thinking of just throwing it out there to you guys to see if someone has an idea I have not tried yet before going out to borrow/rent a slide hammer. I dont want to put new or old pads back in and throw up a white towel.
K I got it off. GOT PISSED OFF> GOT A BIG HAMMER>
Hit it from the back side off the rotor where the caliper goes on at the opening of the the backing plate. 5 hits off. This is two handed with a big hammer. done....IAM HAPPY. lol. 
update - done. pics to come.
TO CONFIRM REAR BRAKE CALIPER COMPRESSION. - you indeed compress just a hare. the rest is just turn the rear brake piston in. It was almost effort less. I used a 19mm wrench. on the face of the piston there are two V-shaped cut outs. turn the piston clock wise to get the piston to move inward. DONE.
K all is well getting caliper and caliper holder of the car in order to remove rear rotors. mine are rust pitted and rather than get them cut I decided to just go new.
now for the problem. I cant get rotors off! yep as dumb as that seems I done many brakes but these wont budge.
I have wire brushed the hub, WD40, inspect to ensure nothing else would be holding them on, the secure washers are off (to just confirm the obvious), used hammer.
these are on tight with rust I presume. I think I need a slide hammer but I was thinking of just throwing it out there to you guys to see if someone has an idea I have not tried yet before going out to borrow/rent a slide hammer. I dont want to put new or old pads back in and throw up a white towel.
____________________________________
TO CONFIRM REAR BRAKE CALIPER COMPRESSION. - you indeed compress just a hare. the rest is just turn the rear brake piston in. It was almost effort less. I used a 19mm wrench. on the face of the piston there are two V-shaped cut outs. turn the piston clock wise to get the piston to move inward. DONE.
K all is well getting caliper and caliper holder of the car in order to remove rear rotors. mine are rust pitted and rather than get them cut I decided to just go new.
now for the problem. I cant get rotors off! yep as dumb as that seems I done many brakes but these wont budge.
I have wire brushed the hub, WD40, inspect to ensure nothing else would be holding them on, the secure washers are off (to just confirm the obvious), used hammer.
these are on tight with rust I presume. I think I need a slide hammer but I was thinking of just throwing it out there to you guys to see if someone has an idea I have not tried yet before going out to borrow/rent a slide hammer. I dont want to put new or old pads back in and throw up a white towel.
TO CONFIRM REAR BRAKE CALIPER COMPRESSION. - you indeed compress just a hare. the rest is just turn the rear brake piston in. It was almost effort less. I used a 19mm wrench. on the face of the piston there are two V-shaped cut outs. turn the piston clock wise to get the piston to move inward. DONE.
K all is well getting caliper and caliper holder of the car in order to remove rear rotors. mine are rust pitted and rather than get them cut I decided to just go new.
now for the problem. I cant get rotors off! yep as dumb as that seems I done many brakes but these wont budge.
I have wire brushed the hub, WD40, inspect to ensure nothing else would be holding them on, the secure washers are off (to just confirm the obvious), used hammer.
these are on tight with rust I presume. I think I need a slide hammer but I was thinking of just throwing it out there to you guys to see if someone has an idea I have not tried yet before going out to borrow/rent a slide hammer. I dont want to put new or old pads back in and throw up a white towel.
K I got it off. GOT PISSED OFF> GOT A BIG HAMMER>
Hit it from the back side off the rotor where the caliper goes on at the opening of the the backing plate. 5 hits off. This is two handed with a big hammer. done....IAM HAPPY. lol. update - done. pics to come.
Last edited by Asphalt Assault; 04-20-2008 at 05:11 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
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