Weird check engine issue...
Weird check engine issue...
OK so I've had my Injen Cold Air Intake for about a month now. Never had a check engine light durring all that time. Yesterday I took my car in to have its oil changed. It was at 40% and car had about 5100 miles in it, about 4100 more since the first oil change. Anyway I left there after having my oil changed, and was cruising arround main st, and fooling arroudn with my brother and some STI. My boy called and me my brother and him all decide to get our cars washed. We are driving in heavy traffic and pretty much driving completely normal. Out of no where a Solid CHECK ENGINE LIGHT appeared. My heart sunk. I didnt know why I was getting one, but everything drived smoothly. Anyway I got to the car wash and washed my car, and tried shutting car off completely and turning back on but the light stayed. Short story short, we left there and headed back to my house. On my ride back the Left turn signal wouldnt work either. THe front would not blink at all, and the back one blinked fast. the right was fine. I went and bought 2 new turn signal lights and was going to install them today. I ended up leaving and picking my woman up first, and on our ride back I looked down and no more check engine light, and the turn signal worked again....
I was like WTF...
Any Idea what could have caused this?
Only thing that I thought may have caused it was that I hit a bump in the road kinda hard. but had no problems right afterwards, it seemed to crop up like 30 minutes later. I just dont understand how a CEL and having no left turn signal coincide? it makes no sense to me at all.
I was like WTF...
Any Idea what could have caused this?
Only thing that I thought may have caused it was that I hit a bump in the road kinda hard. but had no problems right afterwards, it seemed to crop up like 30 minutes later. I just dont understand how a CEL and having no left turn signal coincide? it makes no sense to me at all.
just cause he tried racing a car that would eat him alive doesn't make him a ricer.
the turn signal might have just burt out. most gm cars will tell u this by making the blinker go twice as fast when it senses a short. this is normal. the check engine light could be oil in the engine from the air filter. take the filter off, clean the sensor , disconnect the battery for 10 mins and it should be fine.
the turn signal might have just burt out. most gm cars will tell u this by making the blinker go twice as fast when it senses a short. this is normal. the check engine light could be oil in the engine from the air filter. take the filter off, clean the sensor , disconnect the battery for 10 mins and it should be fine.
Thats my little brother, hes just getting his hits in. Actually the STI raced my bro and they ran neck and neck, and I run neck and neck with my brother so there would have been no eating alive. Now of course this was all from a roll, and maybe if we went from a dead stop the above would be true, but all racing was roll racing, and he wasnt that quick.
Both problems fixed themselves. But they both came at the same time, and both went away at the same time, thats what I dont understand.
Both problems fixed themselves. But they both came at the same time, and both went away at the same time, thats what I dont understand.
alright now this is just hear say from another thread. But i heard that when you get the car washed with the intake it causes some water to get on it. That will cause the CEL but like you said it did go away. I think i saw that thread on this website not oo sure. But this is again just hear say.
just take it into the dealer and tell them your check engine light came on then went off. they can run a diagnostic and tell you what happened since the computer will have logged the even.t i had a cel come on and i thought it was from my k&n, i left it for a while and then it went away, however i went and got it checked anyway at the dealer a few weeks and it turned out there was a problem with a the intake valve for my number 4 cylinder. i was glad that i took it in, cuz they fixed it under warranty and i was informed that if i had let it go for much longer it could have caused some sever damage. point of the story, if i were you, i'd take it to get checked out.
Well as I mentioned before both problems seemed to go away at the same time, however I was driving with my brother last night and we hit a small bump while my turn signal was on again and it went from normal flash to fast flash. We have determined the bulb to be the culprate and we swapped it out with a new one and problem is gone.
I havent had the CEL come back again, so unless it does this week IM just going to ingore it.
I havent had the CEL come back again, so unless it does this week IM just going to ingore it.
Originally Posted by RedBaseBolt
I still call BS on you even keeping up with an STI...unless u raced a WRX , THAT I can see. not a 330+ HP AWD STI though.
anyways, back to the question at hand!
Take it up to autozone, and you can get that cel checked for free, or go up to meijer and you can by the thing to check your engine lights for pretty cheap I hear. It's better to be safe then sorry, and plus, if you buy it, you'll always have it.
Take it up to autozone, and you can get that cel checked for free, or go up to meijer and you can by the thing to check your engine lights for pretty cheap I hear. It's better to be safe then sorry, and plus, if you buy it, you'll always have it.
Originally Posted by iso
just take it into the dealer and tell them your check engine light came on then went off. they can run a diagnostic and tell you what happened since the computer will have logged the even.t i had a cel come on and i thought it was from my k&n, i left it for a while and then it went away, however i went and got it checked anyway at the dealer a few weeks and it turned out there was a problem with a the intake valve for my number 4 cylinder. i was glad that i took it in, cuz they fixed it under warranty and i was informed that if i had let it go for much longer it could have caused some sever damage. point of the story, if i were you, i'd take it to get checked out.
Originally Posted by Rusty
nope...not bullshit. I raced an STi and was pretty much neck and neck keeping up. i started catching up between shifts slightly, but other than that it was pretty close. the passenger of the STi took some video, but i'm waiting for someone to upload so i can prove it to you. the '06 STi was 100% stock and i had an intake. the awd drivetrain robs power to the wheels like crazy. get it dyno'd, you won't see anywhere near 300hp at the wheels.
I don't understand why its so hard to believe that a 2990lb Cobalt SS S/C putting down 230WHP can keep up with a 3300lb WRX STi putting down 240WHP, especially from a roll.
Taking it to autozone or advance or wherever is the worst thing you can do. All they will do is just give you the code number and then clear the codes. So if you do try to take it to the dealership, they'll have no code to read. I work at a chrysler dealership and we HATE HATE HATE autozone or advance or any of those "we'll check your check engine light for free" crap.
Edit: And even if you walk in with a code number and they can't find that code in the computer, warranty isn't going to pay for anything unless the diagnostics are run on-site.
Atleast that's how mopar works
Edit: And even if you walk in with a code number and they can't find that code in the computer, warranty isn't going to pay for anything unless the diagnostics are run on-site.
Atleast that's how mopar works
Originally Posted by TimDang
Taking it to autozone or advance or wherever is the worst thing you can do. All they will do is just give you the code number and then clear the codes. So if you do try to take it to the dealership, they'll have no code to read. I work at a chrysler dealership and we HATE HATE HATE autozone or advance or any of those "we'll check your check engine light for free" crap.
Edit: And even if you walk in with a code number and they can't find that code in the computer, warranty isn't going to pay for anything unless the diagnostics are run on-site.
Atleast that's how mopar works
Edit: And even if you walk in with a code number and they can't find that code in the computer, warranty isn't going to pay for anything unless the diagnostics are run on-site.
Atleast that's how mopar works
When a customer comes in asking us to pull the codes, we just take our Actron OBDII scanner and go out to their vehicle. We pull the code(s), give them the number of the codes, and then the scanner displays the description of the code. We DO NOT erase the codes unless the customer specifically asks us to do so. Also, if a vehicle went through inspection and failed because of a CEL, we are not allowed to erase the code.
Obviously its better to go to the dealership and have them pull the CEL if your car is under warranty. That way they can read the coeds and begin diagnosing the issue right away. However, if your vehicle is out of warranty, its $100 just to pull the codes, not including fixing the problem, parts, or labor - so obviously in that case going to the dealerhship would be foolish.
I see. But every single customer I've had come in after going to autozone had the codes cleared, thought it was automatic, didn't know it was a request.
And most places, around here anyway, any diagnostics at a dealership is under $40.
And most places, around here anyway, any diagnostics at a dealership is under $40.
Originally Posted by wesmanw02
Exactly. The only reason STI's and Evo's are precieved to be so fast is because they can launch hard off the line. They really aren't anything special from a roll, and if you look at the dyno numbers, they are rather low due to the AWD drivetrain loss.
I don't understand why its so hard to believe that a 2990lb Cobalt SS S/C putting down 230WHP can keep up with a 3300lb WRX STi putting down 240WHP, especially from a roll.
I don't understand why its so hard to believe that a 2990lb Cobalt SS S/C putting down 230WHP can keep up with a 3300lb WRX STi putting down 240WHP, especially from a roll.
Its been a while no CEL and since replacing the bulb no turn signal issues. IM gonna leave it where its at for now...
As far as an STI, ive seen STI's pull anywhere from 220-260 hp to the wheels. AWD loss is a bitch. so I dont see why its hard to believe. ST's are very heavy due to the AWD system. We are much lighter, and many of us are pulling mad horse power. I dynoed 250 to the wheels (many people call that too high so take it for what its worth) Ive had my intake added since then, so a stock STI shouldnt be hard to run with from a roll. I eat SRT-4's for breakfast, stock wise, even slightly modded ones. Theres a blue one arround here that has ricerish black looking flames on the front of his blue SRT. I play with him all the time on my way home from lunch. I usually get an instant 1 car lead, and when hes reving high he will usually make up some of that ground but when he shifts he starts to lose ground. Usually from a 40 I can pull a few cars on him by 100.
As far as an STI, ive seen STI's pull anywhere from 220-260 hp to the wheels. AWD loss is a bitch. so I dont see why its hard to believe. ST's are very heavy due to the AWD system. We are much lighter, and many of us are pulling mad horse power. I dynoed 250 to the wheels (many people call that too high so take it for what its worth) Ive had my intake added since then, so a stock STI shouldnt be hard to run with from a roll. I eat SRT-4's for breakfast, stock wise, even slightly modded ones. Theres a blue one arround here that has ricerish black looking flames on the front of his blue SRT. I play with him all the time on my way home from lunch. I usually get an instant 1 car lead, and when hes reving high he will usually make up some of that ground but when he shifts he starts to lose ground. Usually from a 40 I can pull a few cars on him by 100.
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