What the **** is this "Demand" ****. Are you that guy in everyones dealership that they giggle about when you are not there?


Seriously, The "Demand" **** will not work, that will just make your dealer wish they had never sold you the car in the first place. Having a normal conversation to work out an agreement is the way I like to deal with dealers, you always get more from sugar than with a bat.

They are like sparkplugs, it will be very hard to prove that they are defective and not abused.

If they resurface them for free, take it. I'd be happy with that and so should you.

 

Alot of times if a car isnt driven for a long time the rotors will rust, I'm sure you guys have seen the surface rust on rotors after parking the car for a few days when its humid. If they continue to develope this surface rust for a month or so then the car is taken out and braked really hard it will cause the rotors to warp. I dunno the science behind it but I've seen it happen tons and tons of times on new cars that have been on the lot of a long time.

Customer buys it, brings it back in a month later with viberation while braking complaint...

 

your roters might be bent (because of heat) id bring it int o get checked because with 15 000 km they will replace them

 

You need to get your rotors cut, its common problem with us redlines

 

ITS NOT BAD READ THIS! lol

i wish i saw this post sooner....... Im guessing all of you with this problem have aftermarket rims, if so then its a quick fix. Pull the rims off, and on the rotor there is a tab around the lug studs, pull it off, and problem is fixed

 

if you haven't been obviously racing and the car is in good condition there is a great chance the dealer will resurface the rotors under warranty if they are warped. i would suggest getting it in soon, as it has low miles (sorry km) on it. the longer you wait the more it will seem like warping from normal driving. also depending on weather (rust and snow etc) could help them warp.

 

I had same problem with only 2000 miles, (2.4 engine) My local dealer fix it under warranty, was one rotor... now its working ok

 

For goodness sake its just warped rotors, it happens when you abuse them and only when you abuse them... If a rotor warps really soon after installation its defective, 15-20k after install then its abuse.

Anyway, having the dealer turn your rotors will fix the wobble for about 5-10k and then since the rotors are thinner they will not dissipate the heat well and will warp out faster than the first time. The only real solution is to get new rotors. Every brake job in the shop I work at gets new rotors, its the only way to keep the customer from coming back 10k later and bitching.

Anyway, the best way to keep the rotors from warping is dont abuse the brakes and keep the rears well adjusted. I have had to adjust the rears in my car twice now and Im at 20,000km... This keeps the bias right so the fronts dont do all the braking and prematurely wear. Also it keeps the car from nose-diving. You dont have to deal with this in the SS's w/ rear disks obviously.

If you want to keep driving the car hard, look at a set of slotted rotors at gravana tuning or one of the other dealers. Cross-drilled are also good, but rust out more in the winter and have a tendency to crack.

 

My IRL did the same thing, each time they resurfaced the Rotors. After about 1000 miles or so it would shake again, after the 2nd attempt at resurfacing the rotors they went ahead and replaced the rotors, has not shaked since then (October/November replacement) and I have replaced my front brake pads since then. Just let the service manager know. I initially had problems with mine around 8-10K which was premature for brake/rotor issues. Just keep informing your service manager, I was lucky enough to have one that addressed my issues.

 

Warped rotors aren't always the end-all-be-all answer to front end vibrations.

I have had front end vibrations like this happen twice.

First time 4000 miles. Dealership told me it was pad build-up on the rotors. They called it "over-glazed". They turned the rotors down to spec, they had become too thick. No warping, no cracks, no grooves. They said it is a common problem with GM cars since 2002. GM changed the compound in the brake pads making them too soft. They tend to cause build-up on the rotors, and eventually a vibration will start. They suggested going to a ceramic pad.

Second time at 7200 miles. Dealership could not replicate the problem, it was only occasional for me (it probably will increase over time like the first time did). However they had to replace a valve stem on one of my OEM wheels and removed it and replaced it. Apparently, the vibration went away. They had 4 people drive my car and couldn't find a problem. This was AFTER they had done a "nuts and bolts" check on front suspension and replaced my valve stem. They also checked the rotor for warpage and run-out. Found nothing wrong.

I had my wheels BALANCED and ROTATED at 6000 miles. This problem seemed to occur shortly after that.

I believe that my lug nuts weren't torqued properly and caused the vibration. That's all it takes in a FWD application!

People are too quick to jump on the "my rotors are warped" bandwagon. Please check your lug nuts, balance your wheels, and rotate them - all cheaper than a brake job and necessary maintenance anyways. I would bet that some of your problems will go away.

FYI: both times, my dealership has confrmed that my brakes/rotors show NO SIGNS OF ABUSE, BETTER THAN AVERAGE WEAR ON THE PADS. I am not hard on my brakes. On my other car, I got 30k out of a set of OEM brake pads, when my Pontiac dealership told me they are usually good for only 25k. I take very good care of brakes and tires on all of my cars.

 

its called rotor run out. your rotor surfaces are basicly not even.

 

you need new rotors

 

Alright! Zombie thread FTW!