I've had the K&N intake since I first got the car (it was put on about 1,000 miles). It's not the cause of the problem. I have had the GM Stage 1 Kit for about 1,000 miles (It was installed at about 10,000 miles. My car now has 11,000 miles.

During the first 10,000 miles I never had this issue at all. This is due to the Stage 1 Kit or faulty stock parts wearing out.

 

well, i have the Stage Kit and never had the issues so i guess im goign with the stock BPV even tho i have the dejon spring

 

I'm just thinking about these factors occurring. Either the spring gone weak, the bpv could be ripped, or something else occurred. I never had any issues running the set ups, and no CEL ever once hit me. I can't remember the guys forum, but he talked about his problem with the bpv ripping when he first installed the Dejon spring.

 

I dunno about the bpv, being faulty... If anything I would think it would be because of the bpv solenoid or maybe even something to do with the wastegate....I'm leaning more towards the gm stage 1 kit tho becausei never had any issues before that kit was installed.

 

If this proves to be a bullshit problem yet again, I will be selling this for a new SS camaro or a C5 Z06. Maybe a Hyundai Genesis.

Oh also, my car gave me a "Service ESC" warning followed by a "ESC OFF" warning when I boosted to my 5 PSI max. It went away and didn't stay on. Maybe that helps someone?

 

well go have the dealership take a look at it... however make sure u dont have the problem i did today when they replaced my front right brembo caliper and didnt make sure my rear springs were in place before lowering it and i drove off and the rear end failed

 

I had issues with the kit on a cold day. My car wouldn't go past 15psi probably dealing with the weather (blaming on the down learn feature, being a lie that it will be disabled) and had a shitty 271 hp on my dyno run. All I know is my head was thinking, "Why the **** did you get rid of your LSJ?!" That car had zero issues, except the engine rattling, which sounded like it was knocking, but it was the timing tensioner being worn out, probably due to engine movement. The LNF has an excellent suspension set up, if the LSJ had that, it would be flawless.

 

Me and you are in the same boat.... I used to be dully bolte before I got the kit and I never had any issue with the car what so ever until I put this kit on.... I may see if I can find someone to swap ecu with and wire my stock sensors in to see if it still does the same thing. My money is bet against the stage 1

 

actually thats interesting... have you tried turning off traction and esc via the button and then driving?

 

No, but they seem like completely unrelated issues?

 

well if you think about it if u have those features on when making a turn and floor it your car will bog down and not boost passed 5 psi

 

I just had this problem this morning and a few weeks ago.

First problem I had was car wouldn't boost past about 4.6 PSI via RPD gauge and fluttering between shift even at 0.0 PSI.

Problem: Water on oiled K&N Filter
You will have this problem with both a K7N drop in and especially the HAHN CAI. The solution has been stated above. The filter should be pushed onto the intake all the way up to where the piping on the HAHN bends.

Stalls or Stuttering of the vehicle: Oiled filter has "dirty'd" the MAF sensor and/or intake could be loose.
Cleaned MAF and problem was gone.

Reduced Boost/Power. Possible leak somewhere in the intercooler piping. Leaks can also occur on the cold side tmap sensor.

Car starts and shuts off: MAF/Intake

Also be sure to check connections from the intake to the turbo itself. If the HAHN K&N filter even gets loose a little bit. I mean still on the piping but the clamp is loose the car will stutter.

Another problem that I occured was the car would "randomly" build boost pressure between shifts or during cruise "Highway Driving".

Problem here was again the filter itself wasn't pushed far enough on the piping.

Our cars do not like oiled filters.. Period.

 

Sometimes, I thinking that the dealer gave me the wrong tune from the very start. Because my paper said "succesfully installed Stage I and II" and thinking that's why I got owned by the Caliber-SRT4. Right now I don't know. I'll make the dealer reflash my car since its under warranty. I'll upload the picture as soon as I'm finished with dinner.

 

Mine says the same thing, stage 1 and 2..... I seen it when they brought my vin up.... I too questioned it but was told that was just the name of the calibration

 

Umm... I'm pretty sure it won't let them flash your car with the SS/SC stage 1 and stage 2 tunes..

 

I have an idea, you all have the same problem correct? You all have the same tune correct?

Well what are the chances of the bypass valve failing? I say its not really that common. Sooooo I think its the tune.

 

I dont have that same tune, but my problem was fixed with what I said above.

 

here is the work paper stated from Jeff Gordon Chevrolet. Sorry for it being hard to read from my camera phone.

you could be right about the KN filter, since its related with me and him. I do have some MAF Cleaner for it, but never used it and don't want to **** up the MAF's circuits. So how do you properly use it? I'm having flash backs when I talked to this guy at Autozone about Cold Intakes, he said "dude seriously! how much do you love your car?" I said, "I love it", he said, " if you love it that badly I suggest you take off that damn intake before you get water splash into it and causing it to **** up." I was like "really?" "I got a fenderwell and a oil filter." he said back to me,"that stuff don't matter, the intake is like sucking anything like a twister, so take it off before you **** up your gorgeous ride" so I kind of agreed and disagree with him, but never listend since, so I wish I did before. Now I might do that.

 

Its probably one of the new sensors. I have this problem with my Sky Redline and took it to the dealer. Their TECH 2 scanner showed one sensor reading 12 psi at idle so Im thinking its a sensor issue. Get a scanner for the DTCs, most of the time I will not get the CEL but will get a DTC of P0236. I also have the GMPP tune for my car...Got to be the sensors

 

I was recently having the exact same problem that you guys both described. I was intermittent for about 2 weeks, with no lights or codes. Finally over the weekend I got a CEL, I took it to AutoZone to have them check the code before I went to chevy because chevy in my town likes to try and screw me. Anyways I made one more stop before chevy and after that my CEL turned off. I took it to chevy still, and they got a different code. I got a P0101 from AutoZone (Lean code?), and chevy got something else, I don't recall and I'm too lazy too look right now lol. I didn't show them my code til I got the car back, and they said they never got the code I got. They said they found a few clamps loose, and they tightened them. This was done on tuesday, and I have yet to have the problem again. I just assumed it was my BPV but they claimed otherwise. They said if I encounter the problem again to plan on leaving the car with them for a few days, but so far so good. As simple as it was, I think they may have fixed it, so that would be a good place to start for you guys. My mods are in my sig, and seem very similar to you guys. And just to clarify, I did check my MAP sensors and everything for the GMS1 and everything was very tight, and no problems that I could find.

 

I just got back now from the dealer to report for my findings. This is not GM's fault, which turns out to be my fault because I had boost leaks coming from my charge pipe and intake.
Luckly, the mechanic was easy on me, so I didn't get my warranty voided or have to pay anything. So they picked up an error code P0236, which is related to the boost leaks. If that code hits in the pcm then you got a boost leak issue and you won't go past 5 psi until you fix the problem. They used a soap for test boost leaks and placed it on the couplers, if they find the soap foaming into bubbles, then they know its a leak, and start re-tighting down the clamps properly. So I need to invest myself for more T-bolt clamps and maybe two more couplers for my Injen CP and get some more t-bolt clamps for my Hahn intake to avoid having anymore leaks. That's what the error is and I never heard anymore fluttering sinced they fix the problem on the way back to my house. So, I hope this helps some of you out.

 

They told me one of the things loose was my intake, but like you I got lucky, and noone said anything else, they did it and sent me home. I'm glad to hear yours was the same problem, now I'm not too worried about it happening again.

 

yeah, it was one of the last things on my mind about boost leaks and never thought it would happen again. I remembered the time my Injen CP's popped off the intercooler a couple of times and set off the CEL P0101(not sure its the right code) related to the MAF sensor with the fuel trims being off. So, I went all over God's creation to look for t-bolt clamps for my 2.5" size and found only one shop who had one stock and I took the other one off my stock CP. Re-tighten it and reset the battery to get rid of the CEL and never happend since.

 

So mine could be the fact that one of the screws on my maf sensor is somehow stripped and there is only one screw holding it down. Air would be leaking around it.... I'll see if I can fix that this weekend, along with another boost leak check

 

i have similar issue but mine is supercharged and it is due to my aftermarket intake and the maf sensor getting wet. loss of power and fluttering. i would have no clue what it would be on a turbo. specially with a drop in air filter. ??????????