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I took the stock bypass valve out and I just laughed that it's plastic and rubber... But I want to make sure I install the forged one correctly.. Do I insert it just like this and screw it back on? I will be putting high temp grease on the inside as well.
I took the stock bypass valve out and I just laughed that it's plastic and rubber... But I want to make sure I install the forged one correctly.. Do I insert it just like this and screw it back on? I will be putting high temp grease on the inside as well.
you don't reuse the stock piece. you should have a metal cap with a nipple to hook the hose up and it threads on to the unit.
I DID IT!!!!! sounds stupid but so proud of myself!! First mechanical thing I've done completely on my own!!!! I ended up putting that opening part facing downward into the housing and the hose plug facing upwards. Took out for a spin and it sounds much better and had that bov sound again.. So happy. Thank you everyone for helping me out. I am learning how to do so much on here and more confident doing work on my own... So much cheaper haha
I DID IT!!!!! sounds stupid but so proud of myself!! First mechanical thing I've done completely on my own!!!! I ended up putting that opening part facing downward into the housing and the hose plug facing upwards. Took out for a spin and it sounds much better and had that bov sound again.. So happy. Thank you everyone for helping me out. I am learning how to do so much on here and more confident doing work on my own... So much cheaper haha
Nice man glad you got it! Facing it downward was the proper Way! I love the way mine sounds with a k&n!
Oh, not quite what a meant. I just meant that... on the Solstices they are bypassing the solenoid. I'm just bypassing the tank which apparently they do not have.
I mean I don't know exactly how that thing works but I picture the BPV hose (side) as kind of a "common" and the solenoid is switching between pressure (the top / cold side hose) and vacuum (bottom / the manifold side).
Maybe someone knows exactly how that solenoid works. Without that knowledge though I don't feel comfortable bypassing the solenoid itself. Just the tank. I could see having drivability issues if bypassing the solenoid. That takes away electronic modulation of the BPV.
I love how this was never answered, and after.going through every thread on the issue, one person will say that it switches between boost and vacuum; the next will say it only senses the boost, and doesn't ever route it to the bpv. See some people when by passing the soleniod, they loop the bottom outlet to the side, as they they the inlet from the lower charge pipe opens up at times, others say it doesn't, as it only senses the boost pressure there.
Anyone actually test this out to see if boost actually does come out or not from the solenoid? 100% for sure?
I love how this was never answered, and after.going through every thread on the issue, one person will say that it switches between boost and vacuum; the next will say it only senses the boost, and doesn't ever route it to the bpv. See some people when by passing the soleniod, they loop the bottom outlet to the side, as they they the inlet from the lower charge pipe opens up at times, others say it doesn't, as it only senses the boost pressure there.
Anyone actually test this out to see if boost actually does come out or not from the solenoid? 100% for sure?
Wish I had the knowledge and experience to be able to answer ya and be able to help someone for once. Sorry about that. I know I bypassed the tank and I see a slight difference when it comes to that flutter sound. It's nothing like it was before but I can still hear it at times. Someone mentioned that I'll always have a little flutter so it's not something I'm worrying about.
It doesn't look like to me that the soleniod has much room for a mecanism to electronic open and close where the line to the lower charge pipe is. The line to the bipass valve is right there beside it, so don't see how it could block off the nipple to the lower charge, without also getting in way of the nipple to the bipass valve, though might be, just looks unlikely to me. looking at it I could.see the line going the lower charge just be permanently blocked off with Just a sensor in it, but don't know.
If it was able to actually provide boost through it'd make sense, but just not seening a mechanism fitting in there between those two nipples myself. Didn't have time to play around with it today to see.
It doesn't look like to me that the soleniod has much room for a mecanism to electronic open and close where the line to the lower charge pipe is. The line to the bipass valve is right there beside it, so don't see how.it could, though might be. Looking at it, I could.see the line going the lower charge just be permanently blocked off with Just a sensor in it, but don't know.
If it was able to actually provide boost through it'd make sense, but just not seening a mechanism fitting in there between those two nipples myself. Didn't have time to play around with it today to see.
Had to bipass my tank too. Leaking somewhere in it. Hadn't a chance to look yet
Seems tiny, junky,.and stupid to me. Going to make one, and route it better. Bet I get rid of all.flutter.
Had to bipass my tank too. Leaking somewhere in it. Hadn't a chance to look yet
Seems tiny, junky,.and stupid to me. Going to make one, and route it better. Bet I get rid of all.flutter.
When the soleniod doesn't have power, the BPV to manifold is open.
When the soleniod has power the lower charge pipe to BPV is open.
The solenoid is rather restrictive, might see if I can find one with a bigger inner diameter, or maybe run two in parallel.
As for the piece of crap vacuum reserve tank.... Also very restrictive. Far as I can tell it's suppose to act as a check valve by the two sides being drawn together, and just being held closed by its own suction? As I see no diaphragm, no flapper, or moving parts, just all hard plastic. Overly complex, and stupid design for something so simple, all to produce a piece of crap. Mine just fell apart. Two halves came unglued... Quality... Going to just make my own by using basically any kind of cylinder PVC tube with two caps, jar, whatever), two fittings for the air hoses, and a check valve. Simple and 10 times better than this piece of crap... Here'sof curious as to what's in it:
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