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Hey guys what's up . Been daily driving my 2008 for some years now and she's still going strong. Lots of brake issues though no e-brake and it eats front rotors like tic tacs lol. I recently lost reverse and 5th too so have to flinstone it if I want to back up. Otherwise she's been good lol.
So I ordered the new lines from zzp was just outside installing them. I tried to find a write up to see if we need the crush washers and in what order exactly but couldn't find anything.
So far I tried with crush washers on the caliper and it will just spray fluid so took those out.
I bled the brakes and the pedal just drops to the floor. There should be no air in the lines. All 2 nipples each side are closed.
The only thing is I do have the little crush washer installed at the top line that comes with the kit. That's the only thing maybe that could be causing that i'm not sure.
Running out of daylight so will have to get back at it tomorrow.
But basically do we need the crush washers on this kit or no?.
I did see 1 youtube video and he doesn't seem to be mentioning anything about the washers.
I guess i'll reply to myself thought maybe someone would see it overnight.
Found I had a extra washer up front so just have the two at the banjo bolt right now so no leak but I have zero pedal pressure. It drops right to the floor. No drips or leaks and I bled them again and just comes out a clear stream and no bubbles.
I might have to reinstalled my old lines or walk to the store to see if they have a original set.
Last edited by galvatron; May 15, 2022 at 12:00 PM.
I might try 1 more time today to make this work. If I have to i'll bleed all corners.
Did you swap all 6 lines? If so it needs to be bled at all 4 corners or there will be zero pedal. It may take an extra pump or two to get the air pocket moving through the rear lines due to the double hoses per side
Easiest way to bleed is just work longest to shortest lines(RR/LR/RF/LF).Unless the ABS pump was changed you shouldn't need to do anything else special.
won't have time now to mess with it back to work tomorrow. there's no air in the lines very sure about that. I've replaced the rear calipers before and bled those the same way.
When you're bleeding your brembos are you doing 1 nipple or both?.
I did both last time going to make sure I didn't miss that last time on the hard lines.
Last edited by galvatron; May 15, 2022 at 08:49 PM.
I usually bleed the inner first then the outer, but you could do the other way too.
Odd that you lose pedal when running the braided lines up front but the factory hoses run fine. Does the pedal just sink to the floor and stay when you have those lines on?
drops pretty much to the floor. if I didn't have my wheel chock it would roll my car into the street lol.
I must of just not bled the inner properly the one time because I noticed some good amount of bubbles on the inner and the outer never really has any bubbles maybe 1 or 2.
I'm getting pretty good at swapping these lines though might be able to do it with my eyes closed now hehe.
But yeah just got home drove to work no problem. I do want those lines on there for sure.
I ordered some factory lines from rock auto just in case my old one's do need to be changed they are rusted to hell.
I don't recall having any issues bleeding my lines when I switched to the Goodridge lines. I did a full brake fluid flush at the same time though so I pulled a significant amount of fluid. I also did a hybrid of vacuum bleeder and 2-person method, vacuum bleeder till all major air bubbles were out then 2-person to verify the pedal was right/no more air bubbles.
IIRC I left the stock line on the caliper and connected the Goodridge line to the hard line and let it gravity bleed till fluid came out, then swapped at the caliper. Just make sure you keep enough fluid in the reservoir to prevent any air from entering the ABS system.
Just got them done after work and no problems this time. It must of just been air trapped somewhere because it makes no sense otherwise. Went out for a quick run after and stops fine. Going to do the rears asap.
I hope this helps with the rotors getting out of round. I have tried all kinds of front rotors and they always seems to start getting shaky very early. Never over torque and am never that hard on the brakes. I follow the break in procedure too.
Has anyone ever figured out what exactly is wrong with our e brakes?. I have had two of these and both had the failed e brakes. Replaced the calipers the cables and still fails. Greased the pins and all that too.
Right now on this car I just disconnect it or else it will grind the pads to dust. I would say that's the biggest issue with these cars the brakes front getting out of round and rear e brake issue.
What rotors are you running? I've had no problems with the rotors warping.
The ebrake on this car sucks, check to see if the cable has been crushed, mine was destroyed by poor jack placement (partly my fault and mostly a tire shop). Then there is the adjuster under the rear portion of the center console.
Warping rotors has absolutely nothing to do with what lines you're running.
It has everything to do with cheap rotors, and/or getting them really hot and then sitting on the brakes at a light/stop (most of the rotor cools down, except for the part where the pads are).
So you're either buying cheap rotors or you need to adjust your driving style. Or both.
Powerstop k5533 from rock auto the full kit. Not installed yet but I've had this kit before. I think rignt now I have stoptechs but they are toast.
I've tried other rotors and pads too and even went back to factory ac delco and pads too before. It seems to warp them around 15xxxk roughly maybe even sooner. It's a daily car and does see Canadian winters but usually they are warped or out of round before winter season.
Both my cables are new I replaced them just to make sure.
Rear calipers new as well they seem to hold for a little bit but not for long and I would never trust it on a hill.
I liked the way my ls1 had it with the e brake inside the rotor hub. That can't really fail. Or when I had drums on my v6 camaro very solid and safe.
Originally Posted by ECaulk
What rotors are you running? I've had no problems with the rotors warping.
The ebrake on this car sucks, check to see if the cable has been crushed, mine was destroyed by poor jack placement (partly my fault and mostly a tire shop). Then there is the adjuster under the rear portion of the center console.
Last edited by galvatron; May 24, 2022 at 10:36 PM.
Warping rotors has absolutely nothing to do with what lines you're running.
It has everything to do with cheap rotors, and/or getting them really hot and then sitting on the brakes at a light/stop (most of the rotor cools down, except for the part where the pads are).
So you're either buying cheap rotors or you need to adjust your driving style. Or both.
Yeah not sure how to answer you. I don't really sit in traffic. I'm not buying cheap rotors or pads. Even thought of getting zzp's bigger caliper kit but really the car is a daily so shouldn't need it. I even went back to original ac delco rotors and pads. I tried stop techs too I believe.
I've had a lot of cars none have given me major brake issues and drive the same. There are rotor posts going back to when these cars came out I think. Something not right up front or with the brembos and nobody really knows why.
Are your slide pins properly lubricated? If they aren't lubed and your pads are dragging, then you're overheating your rotors. That's a maintenance item that needs regular attention.
And I definitely wouldn't say nobody really knows why - there are a lot of people out there that have no idea what they're doing and tend towards a general lack of maintenance. This car has always attracted young, inexperienced people.
There is absolutely nothing special about the Brembos on these cars. Brembo has a line of standard calipers that they put on everything, they just change the mounting plate for the brand.
John Powell / PRS is on the opposite side of Toronto from you (Port Perry); you can visit him and he'll tell you the same thing.
Last time I did mine with the Stoptech Cryo slotted rotors (black hat) with Powerstop Z23 pads, and that was ~3yrs/~30k or so ago. Haven't had any issues with noise or rotors warping, and it still stops hard and quick. I usually pull everything apart and clean it once a year though when I pull the car out of storage, as it sits over the winter.
Do the pads slide freely in the caliper or bound up? Really the only thing I could see mechanically causing excess heat into the rotor without criticizing driving style.
Edit: Phone didn't update and show me post above, repeat info.
Last time I did mine with the Stoptech Cryo slotted rotors (black hat) with Powerstop Z23 pads, and that was ~3yrs/~30k or so ago. Haven't had any issues with noise or rotors warping, and it still stops hard and quick. I usually pull everything apart and clean it once a year though when I pull the car out of storage, as it sits over the winter.
Do the pads slide freely in the caliper or bound up? Really the only thing I could see mechanically causing excess heat into the rotor without criticizing driving style.
Edit: Phone didn't update and show me post above, repeat info.
30k would be amazing lol .
I'll make sure the pins are greased properly and all that. Just trying to think back if I did that last time and pretty sure I did. Just like with the rear sliders. Seems like the rear calipers those pins are quite exposed to the elements.
But yeah will do the rotors and pads soon just going to put on the back end goodridge lines first.
Sometimes I do regret putting the car through winter but i've done the whole nice car in storage deal many times and I just wanna drive! . In the future i'll get something really nice again.
I used to have a 98' ws6 t56 with 27xxxkm never seen rain etc etc. I miss her everyday but is what it is had to buy a house . The Cobalt is good fun though and I enjoy driving it as a daily.
Are your slide pins properly lubricated? If they aren't lubed and your pads are dragging, then you're overheating your rotors. That's a maintenance item that needs regular attention.
And I definitely wouldn't say nobody really knows why - there are a lot of people out there that have no idea what they're doing and tend towards a general lack of maintenance. This car has always attracted young, inexperienced people.
There is absolutely nothing special about the Brembos on these cars. Brembo has a line of standard calipers that they put on everything, they just change the mounting plate for the brand.
John Powell / PRS is on the opposite side of Toronto from you (Port Perry); you can visit him and he'll tell you the same thing.
There's a very good chance they aren't now but the new pads and rotors i'll be putting on this weekend when I have a day off.
They are garbage right now anyways just completely warped the wheel shakes at the slightest touch.
Funny I just checked a video on youtube and he says these brembos love to eat rotors bah!
oh well i'll do it all up right grease those pins and see how it goes.
I know about powell just never in the Toronto area maybe once a year.
Me personally i'm 41 so maybe too old for these cars anyways, at least I should take that wing off hehe . I do have a low rise spoiler too just haven't put it on.
The cars are fun though I love that it still has low end power.
Just check the pins that the pads slide along - once you have them out, make sure they're straight, as well. Might be worth doing a test to ensure the caliper pistons are moving feely, as well, since you're going to have the system apart.
There are stickers that you can buy that will detect the amount of heat going through a caliper, as well. Can be useful.
Funny I just checked a video on youtube and he says these brembos love to eat rotors
As an engineer, my only response is that a caliper is a simple mechanical device that applies a force via hydraulic pressure. Eating rotors depends on the hardness and quality of the rotor combined with the aggressiveness of the pads are being utilized.
A fixed caliper like the Brembo will actually eat the rotors less than a sliding caliper since they're able to apply pad pressure more evenly to the rotor. I experienced this with my previous Audi S5. The single piston, sliding caliper would eat the inside of a rotor far quicker than the outside. Swapped to a set of stock Porsche Brembos and the problem went away.
Another thing to look for on Brembos, make sure there isn't a buildup of brake material on the caliper where the pad should move. I just did brakes on my Touareg (they have 4 piston Brembos only slightly larger than the Cobalts) and the car had sat for a while and there was a buildup of brake dust and rust that prevented the pad from being able to move freely.
It's tough to explain so here is a picture, the red circles are the areas I'm talking about all surfaces that are internal to the pads
Another thing to look for on Brembos, make sure there isn't a buildup of brake material on the caliper where the pad should move. I just did brakes on my Touareg (they have 4 piston Brembos only slightly larger than the Cobalts) and the car had sat for a while and there was a buildup of brake dust and rust that prevented the pad from being able to move freely.
It's tough to explain so here is a picture, the red circles are the areas I'm talking about all surfaces that are internal to the pads
I noticed that before after one winter there was some caked stuff in there for sure. You know what drives me nuts in some of those videos guys guys smacking the round part of the caliper with a hammer to get the pins out. Just use a punch for god sakes lol .
Just full ape banging away at the caliper lol .
I can't wait to have a normal steady steering wheel while braking. Gonna be awesome .
My steering column has that rattle since I got the car. That plastic gear or whatever is in there so it makes it even worse hearing the rattles.
I think the control arm bushings are done too that doesn't help. I just got a whole new set of control arms and will put in some better bushings in the old set as a backup.
I'll really get into the car when I have my 3 weeks off and get everything as it should be again.
Don't even get me started on the transmission. I started having trouble getting into reverse. I used to have to use two hands to get it to go in. Then I lost 5th. So yeah that's been fun too. I was only able to find one video
where he had the end off the transmission and his 5th gear was destroyed it looked like. Almost like the syncro bit into the teeth or something real weird. I wonder if that's what happened to mine. It's basically a 4 spd now with no reverse.
I've tried all the adjustments at the shifter it's not that. I also took out the fuse box to get to the linkages. There for sure is something wrong in there maybe shift forks or maybe that 5th gear syncro I don't know yet.
That's a crazy looking rotor. I think the best I had was baer rotors on my ls1 ws6.
Sure is a simple device no doubt. That's why when something doesn't work right it makes you scratch your head sometimes or overthink it. Usually something simple.
I always wondered about the pads even when I had my other Cobalt it had the rear pads sticking issue and when I backed out of my driveway the screeching was loud like a train coming to a halt.
Only reversing though not going forward.
Also on the car now they stick to the rotors if it's rained a bit. (over night) I'm on a slight hill and I can put it in neutral foot off the brake and it will not roll back. I drive forward and pop pop and then it will roll back.
The 2009 car I had did the same thing the pads would stick to the rotors after rain.
At one point I went to a very basic bad can't remember what brand just to see if it would help maybe the pads being too aggressive but it didn't help.
One thing when I had my last set whichever it was power stop or power slot can't remember they had their specific break in procedure and I followed it and they did last longer this time around.
I'll clean the calipers real good grease those pins and see how it goes.
Originally Posted by USMCFieldMP
Just check the pins that the pads slide along - once you have them out, make sure they're straight, as well. Might be worth doing a test to ensure the caliper pistons are moving feely, as well, since you're going to have the system apart.
There are stickers that you can buy that will detect the amount of heat going through a caliper, as well. Can be useful.
As an engineer, my only response is that a caliper is a simple mechanical device that applies a force via hydraulic pressure. Eating rotors depends on the hardness and quality of the rotor combined with the aggressiveness of the pads are being utilized.
A fixed caliper like the Brembo will actually eat the rotors less than a sliding caliper since they're able to apply pad pressure more evenly to the rotor. I experienced this with my previous Audi S5. The single piston, sliding caliper would eat the inside of a rotor far quicker than the outside. Swapped to a set of stock Porsche Brembos and the problem went away.
. Been daily driving my 2008 for some years now and she's still going strong. Lots of brake issues though no e-brake and it eats front rotors like tic tacs lol. I recently lost reverse and 5th too so have to flinstone it if I want to back up. Otherwise she's been good lol.
