or maybe not blown all your $ on go fast stuff and saved $ for a rainy day type thing, you know..**** comes up man

 

I'm an 18 year old kid, you really think I would actually plan for the future?

 

I'm really not looking to go for too much more power, mines more of a dd except in the winter. I've got stage 2, 2.9 pulley, full exhaust and intake. I'm thinking of ordering the gm slotted and drilled rotors. My question what pads do i go with? Red or green from gravana?

 

why dont u just get some cheap ass pads and rotors from autozone or something, probly get the whole kit and kabodoole for $200 or less. But who knows. I dont know about u guys, but in my opinion BRAKES are REALLY important, i mean they put them on the car for a reason, not only are you endangering yourself, your endangering the others around u. Just wait till u have to stop quick for some reason and u could of stopped and avoided the object but instead u hit it and cost thousands of dollars worth of damage when it could of been avoided by proper maintance or getting new brake pads and rotors in your case. I hope u maintain ur engine because if you dont, when that goes your going to be looking at a lot of $$$.

Just something to think about,
later.

 

That's the dumbest excuse Ive ever heard. You NEED brakes to slow you down, period. You don't NEED ebc pads or anything else like that. Just go with NAPA, or Carquest or Autozone OEM replacement stuff(rotors and pads). The $200-300 it cost you is TOTALLY worth it. I was only 19 when I bought my car, so age is just a lame excuse lol. You don't NEED all the performance crap. Trust me, It will still be for sale when you save the money back up that you would need to buy it.

 

Ok now I'm pissed! A couple days ago, I pulled the brakes off (with replacement pads in hand) only to see that the OEM pads looked almost new!!! The rotors weren't nearly as badly grooved as I thought, except they were glazed pretty bad and so were the pads. I roughed up the pads, and cleaned up the rotors. Took it for a test drive and the sqeaking is gone and the brakes hold strong! WTF!?!? So my pads and rotors just got glazed, or what!?!?

 

Stock pad compounds + long, light brake applications = glazing and squealing. Some pad compounds are worse than others about this. When I started to read this thread I thought you might be getting down to the wear indicators. The brakes have little metal tabs that, when the pads are worn down enough, drag on the rotor and make an awful squeal to get you to change them.

I've found that the cheaper the pad you buy the worse they do this kind of thing (it sounds counter-intuitive, but the harder the pads the cheaper they are). Always go with decent pads.

It sounds like a lot, but you can get the GMPP drilled and slotted rotors with new pads for about $400 from CrateEngineDepot.com. Or the aftermarket ones advertised on this board for $300.

 

You can have the rotors turned for fairly cheap if you can't afford new ones. Braking is definitely more important than speed because a totaled car on a flatbed is a waste of money when a few hundred dollars in maintenance could have saved a lot more money in the long run.

Here is some financial advice for you too. Set aside $20 per paycheck in a savings account that you will not touch. It'll add up after awhile, and save you when you get into jams like this. I'm only 23, so don't go saying I'm an old fogie yet either!

 

23!!! OK GRANDPA!!!
With going to school and ****, I can't even hardly afford gas, let alone $20 per pay check. My brakes are fine, the rotors aren't badly grooved so they'll do.

 

Ouch! That's lower than an S-10 on bags laying frame! Just figured I'd try to impart some good advice to make the future a little easier man. It's all good though, glad to hear the brakes are ok.

 

One way to remove the glaze and squeal, at least temporarily, is to just do a few hard stops from 80 to 20.

 

It's good to hear that your brakes aren't as bad as you thought, but the maintenance interval is a HELL of a lot longer than 9000 miles. If you are replacing them that often you must be shifting with the brake pedal and not the clutch! In all seriousness, depending on driving habits brakes should last anywhere from 30,000-60,000 miles. I just replaced the stock rotors and pads on the wife's 2005 malibu (which just crossed 50,000 miles) and you know how women brake! Good luck with it.

 

a side question to this is how are the calipers mounted, with a regular bolt head, a star bit or an allen head. im gona have to change mine and i havent even looked into that....

 

The calipers are held on by two 9/16" bolts.