BWoody Traction Bar Install?
10-03-2006, 03:25 AM
#2
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One bolt in the control arm (Hole is already there) and one in the sub frame. (Hole is there to)
Should not take more then 45 min to put them on.
I want to get a set my self but the price is keeping me away right now.
Later
Should not take more then 45 min to put them on.
I want to get a set my self but the price is keeping me away right now.
Later
10-03-2006, 07:00 AM
#5
Cobalt Traction Bar Installation Instructions
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
here's my phone# in case you have any questions: 443-807-3662
Tools required:
1. drill
2. step drill or 5/8 drill bit
3. 15/16 wrench
4. 15/16 socket and ratchet
5. adjustable wrench
6. ramps or jack stands
7. under 30 minutes of your time for the install.
First off a picture of the traction bars and a hardware list:
1. 2 - adjustable traction bars with jam nuts
2. 2 - 4 1/2" x 5/8-11 grade 8 bolts (frame rail)
3. 2 - 3" x 5/8-11 grade 8 bolts (control arm)
4. 4 - standard flat washers
5. 8 - lock washers
6. 4 - aluminum tapered spacers
7. 4 - 5/8-11 nylock nuts
Locate the hole in the frame rail the 4 1/2" x 5/8-11 bolt goes here
This picture shows where you must mark the lower control arm for drilling, using a tape measure from the aluminum knub measure inward 2 1/2 inches mark it then mark the center of the control arm
This picture shows what the control arm will look like after you have drilled the 5/8 hole in the control arm, note: use a 1/4 drill bit as a pilot drill so the larger drill does not walk all over the place when drilling and when your done drilling clean all of the shavings off of the top of the control arm.
Next its time to bolt up the traction bars:
hardware in this order from bottom to the top for the lower control arm: 3 1/2" long x 5/8-11 bolt, aluminum spacer, traction bar, aluminum spacer, 2 lock washers, lower control arm, flat washer, nylock nut.
hardware in this order from bottom to the top for the frame rail:4 1/2" long x 5/8-11 bolt, traction bar, aluminum spacer, 2 lock washers, frame rail, flat washer, nylock nut.
this is what the bolt order should look like for the control arm:
[b]This is what the bolt order should look like for the frame:[b]
Make sure before you tighten the 5/8 bolts the traction bars are loose and have plenty of play in them then tighten, Heres what it should look like installed:
Make sure you lubricate the radial bearing with white lithium grease and work it in with a side to side twisting motion after installing and periodically, Heres another picture of what it should look like but showing the top of the frame rail also:
Next we move on to adjusting the traction bars, first you will need to lower the car back down and put the weight of the car back onto the front wheels, start off by making sure the traction bars are loose when the weight of the car is on the front tires, tighten the tubes draw them in the traction bars will get shorter, tighten them by hand until they stop and you can't tighten anymore. using an adjustable wrench tighten the traction bar 1/4 turn to pre load. Tighten the jam nuts and take for a test drive if you have no wheel hop when you launch you are done, if you still have wheel hop tighten bars up 1/4 turn at a time until it is gone do not tighten more than 1 full turn.. Make sure you look at the marks left by your tires if there are no breaks in the tracks you have no wheel hop, if you still feel a little something it is engine movement not wheel hop, so you may have to buy either a torque brace or motor mout inserts to address that issue, it is so minimal you should be able to tell the difference between the engine movement and wheel hop.. follow the video:
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
here's my phone# in case you have any questions: 443-807-3662
Tools required:
1. drill
2. step drill or 5/8 drill bit
3. 15/16 wrench
4. 15/16 socket and ratchet
5. adjustable wrench
6. ramps or jack stands
7. under 30 minutes of your time for the install.
First off a picture of the traction bars and a hardware list:
1. 2 - adjustable traction bars with jam nuts
2. 2 - 4 1/2" x 5/8-11 grade 8 bolts (frame rail)
3. 2 - 3" x 5/8-11 grade 8 bolts (control arm)
4. 4 - standard flat washers
5. 8 - lock washers
6. 4 - aluminum tapered spacers
7. 4 - 5/8-11 nylock nuts
Locate the hole in the frame rail the 4 1/2" x 5/8-11 bolt goes here
This picture shows where you must mark the lower control arm for drilling, using a tape measure from the aluminum knub measure inward 2 1/2 inches mark it then mark the center of the control arm
This picture shows what the control arm will look like after you have drilled the 5/8 hole in the control arm, note: use a 1/4 drill bit as a pilot drill so the larger drill does not walk all over the place when drilling and when your done drilling clean all of the shavings off of the top of the control arm.
Next its time to bolt up the traction bars:
hardware in this order from bottom to the top for the lower control arm: 3 1/2" long x 5/8-11 bolt, aluminum spacer, traction bar, aluminum spacer, 2 lock washers, lower control arm, flat washer, nylock nut.
hardware in this order from bottom to the top for the frame rail:4 1/2" long x 5/8-11 bolt, traction bar, aluminum spacer, 2 lock washers, frame rail, flat washer, nylock nut.
this is what the bolt order should look like for the control arm:
[b]This is what the bolt order should look like for the frame:[b]
Make sure before you tighten the 5/8 bolts the traction bars are loose and have plenty of play in them then tighten, Heres what it should look like installed:
Make sure you lubricate the radial bearing with white lithium grease and work it in with a side to side twisting motion after installing and periodically, Heres another picture of what it should look like but showing the top of the frame rail also:
Next we move on to adjusting the traction bars, first you will need to lower the car back down and put the weight of the car back onto the front wheels, start off by making sure the traction bars are loose when the weight of the car is on the front tires, tighten the tubes draw them in the traction bars will get shorter, tighten them by hand until they stop and you can't tighten anymore. using an adjustable wrench tighten the traction bar 1/4 turn to pre load. Tighten the jam nuts and take for a test drive if you have no wheel hop when you launch you are done, if you still have wheel hop tighten bars up 1/4 turn at a time until it is gone do not tighten more than 1 full turn.. Make sure you look at the marks left by your tires if there are no breaks in the tracks you have no wheel hop, if you still feel a little something it is engine movement not wheel hop, so you may have to buy either a torque brace or motor mout inserts to address that issue, it is so minimal you should be able to tell the difference between the engine movement and wheel hop.. follow the video:
10-03-2006, 07:01 AM
#6
http://www.cobaltss. com/forums/showthread.php?t=5005&highlight=traction+bars+inst all
delete the space after cobaltss thats the link to the install pics
delete the space after cobaltss thats the link to the install pics
10-04-2006, 11:59 AM
#9
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Join Date: 07-19-06
Location: md
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here's my phone# in case you have any questions: 443-807-3662
Tools required:
1. drill
2. step drill or 5/8 drill bit
3. 15/16 wrench
4. 15/16 socket and ratchet
5. adjustable wrench
6. ramps or jack stands
7. under 30 minutes of your time for the install.
First off a picture of the traction bars and a hardware list:
1. 2 - adjustable traction bars with jam nuts
2. 2 - 4 1/2" x 5/8-11 grade 8 bolts (frame rail)
3. 2 - 3" x 5/8-11 grade 8 bolts (control arm)
4. 4 - standard flat washers
5. 8 - lock washers
6. 4 - aluminum tapered spacers
7. 4 - 5/8-11 nylock nuts
Locate the hole in the frame rail the 4 1/2" x 5/8-11 bolt goes here
This picture shows where you must mark the lower control arm for drilling, using a tape measure from the aluminum knub measure inward 2 1/2 inches mark it then mark the center of the control arm
This picture shows what the control arm will look like after you have drilled the 5/8 hole in the control arm, note: use a 1/4 drill bit as a pilot drill so the larger drill does not walk all over the place when drilling and when your done drilling clean all of the shavings off of the top of the control arm.
Next its time to bolt up the traction bars:
hardware in this order from bottom to the top for the lower control arm: 3 1/2" long x 5/8-11 bolt, aluminum spacer, traction bar, aluminum spacer, 2 lock washers, lower control arm, flat washer, nylock nut.
hardware in this order from bottom to the top for the frame rail:4 1/2" long x 5/8-11 bolt, traction bar, aluminum spacer, 2 lock washers, frame rail, flat washer, nylock nut.
this is what the bolt order should look like for the control arm:
[B]This is what the bolt order should look like for the frame:[B]
Make sure before you tighten the 5/8 bolts the traction bars are loose and have plenty of play in them then tighten, Heres what it should look like installed:
Make sure you lubricate the radial bearing with white lithium grease and work it in with a side to side twisting motion after installing and periodically, Heres another picture of what it should look like but showing the top of the frame rail also:
Next we move on to adjusting the traction bars, first you will need to lower the car back down and put the weight of the car back onto the front wheels, start off by making sure the traction bars are loose when the weight of the car is on the front tires, tighten the tubes draw them in the traction bars will get shorter, tighten them by hand until they stop and you can't tighten anymore. using an adjustable wrench tighten the traction bar 1/4 turn to pre load. Tighten the jam nuts and take for a test drive if you have no wheel hop when you launch you are done, if you still have wheel hop tighten bars up 1/4 turn at a time until it is gone do not tighten more than 1 full turn.. Make sure you look at the marks left by your tires if there are no breaks in the tracks you have no wheel hop, if you still feel a little something it is engine movement not wheel hop, so you may have to buy either a torque brace or motor mout inserts to address that issue, it is so minimal you should be able to tell the difference between the engine movement and wheel hop.. follow the video:
Tools required:
1. drill
2. step drill or 5/8 drill bit
3. 15/16 wrench
4. 15/16 socket and ratchet
5. adjustable wrench
6. ramps or jack stands
7. under 30 minutes of your time for the install.
First off a picture of the traction bars and a hardware list:
1. 2 - adjustable traction bars with jam nuts
2. 2 - 4 1/2" x 5/8-11 grade 8 bolts (frame rail)
3. 2 - 3" x 5/8-11 grade 8 bolts (control arm)
4. 4 - standard flat washers
5. 8 - lock washers
6. 4 - aluminum tapered spacers
7. 4 - 5/8-11 nylock nuts
Locate the hole in the frame rail the 4 1/2" x 5/8-11 bolt goes here
This picture shows where you must mark the lower control arm for drilling, using a tape measure from the aluminum knub measure inward 2 1/2 inches mark it then mark the center of the control arm
This picture shows what the control arm will look like after you have drilled the 5/8 hole in the control arm, note: use a 1/4 drill bit as a pilot drill so the larger drill does not walk all over the place when drilling and when your done drilling clean all of the shavings off of the top of the control arm.
Next its time to bolt up the traction bars:
hardware in this order from bottom to the top for the lower control arm: 3 1/2" long x 5/8-11 bolt, aluminum spacer, traction bar, aluminum spacer, 2 lock washers, lower control arm, flat washer, nylock nut.
hardware in this order from bottom to the top for the frame rail:4 1/2" long x 5/8-11 bolt, traction bar, aluminum spacer, 2 lock washers, frame rail, flat washer, nylock nut.
this is what the bolt order should look like for the control arm:
[B]This is what the bolt order should look like for the frame:[B]
Make sure before you tighten the 5/8 bolts the traction bars are loose and have plenty of play in them then tighten, Heres what it should look like installed:
Make sure you lubricate the radial bearing with white lithium grease and work it in with a side to side twisting motion after installing and periodically, Heres another picture of what it should look like but showing the top of the frame rail also:
Next we move on to adjusting the traction bars, first you will need to lower the car back down and put the weight of the car back onto the front wheels, start off by making sure the traction bars are loose when the weight of the car is on the front tires, tighten the tubes draw them in the traction bars will get shorter, tighten them by hand until they stop and you can't tighten anymore. using an adjustable wrench tighten the traction bar 1/4 turn to pre load. Tighten the jam nuts and take for a test drive if you have no wheel hop when you launch you are done, if you still have wheel hop tighten bars up 1/4 turn at a time until it is gone do not tighten more than 1 full turn.. Make sure you look at the marks left by your tires if there are no breaks in the tracks you have no wheel hop, if you still feel a little something it is engine movement not wheel hop, so you may have to buy either a torque brace or motor mout inserts to address that issue, it is so minimal you should be able to tell the difference between the engine movement and wheel hop.. follow the video:
10-04-2006, 12:00 PM
#10
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sorry pics wont post up there is an install link on the page where you can buy the traction bars on our website at www.bwoodyperformance.com
10-04-2006, 06:22 PM
#12
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Originally Posted by wasntme
sorry pics wont post up there is an install link on the page where you can buy the traction bars on our website at www.bwoodyperformance.com
where are u all located in md
10-11-2006, 02:27 AM
#14
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here ya go guys. thought i would try and repost this here for you from the .com forums...
this is not my info just reposting to help you guys out
here's my phone# in case you have any questions: 443-807-3662
Tools required:
1. drill
2. step drill or 5/8 drill bit
3. 15/16 wrench
4. 15/16 socket and ratchet
5. adjustable wrench
6. ramps or jack stands
7. under 30 minutes of your time for the install.
First off a picture of the traction bars and a hardware list:
1. 2 - adjustable traction bars with jam nuts
2. 2 - 4 1/2" x 5/8-11 grade 8 bolts (frame rail)
3. 2 - 3" x 5/8-11 grade 8 bolts (control arm)
4. 4 - standard flat washers
5. 8 - lock washers
6. 4 - aluminum tapered spacers
7. 4 - 5/8-11 nylock nuts
Locate the hole in the frame rail the 4 1/2" x 5/8-11 bolt goes here
This picture shows where you must mark the lower control arm for drilling, using a tape measure from the aluminum knub measure inward 2 1/2 inches mark it then mark the center of the control arm
This picture shows what the control arm will look like after you have drilled the 5/8 hole in the control arm, note: use a 1/4 drill bit as a pilot drill so the larger drill does not walk all over the place when drilling and when your done drilling clean all of the shavings off of the top of the control arm.
Next its time to bolt up the traction bars:
hardware in this order from bottom to the top for the lower control arm: 3 1/2" long x 5/8-11 bolt, aluminum spacer, traction bar, aluminum spacer, 2 lock washers, lower control arm, flat washer, nylock nut.
hardware in this order from bottom to the top for the frame rail:4 1/2" long x 5/8-11 bolt, traction bar, aluminum spacer, 2 lock washers, frame rail, flat washer, nylock nut.
this is what the bolt order should look like for the control arm:
[b]This is what the bolt order should look like for the frame:[b]
Make sure before you tighten the 5/8 bolts the traction bars are loose and have plenty of play in them then tighten, Heres what it should look like installed:
Make sure you lubricate the radial bearing with white lithium grease and work it in with a side to side twisting motion after installing and periodically, Heres another picture of what it should look like but showing the top of the frame rail also:
Next we move on to adjusting the traction bars, first you will need to lower the car back down and put the weight of the car back onto the front wheels, start off by making sure the traction bars are loose when the weight of the car is on the front tires, tighten the tubes draw them in the traction bars will get shorter, tighten them by hand until they stop and you can't tighten anymore. using an adjustable wrench tighten the traction bar 1/4 turn to pre load. Tighten the jam nuts and take for a test drive if you have no wheel hop when you launch you are done, if you still have wheel hop tighten bars up 1/4 turn at a time until it is gone do not tighten more than 1 full turn.. Make sure you look at the marks left by your tires if there are no breaks in the tracks you have no wheel hop, if you still feel a little something it is engine movement not wheel hop, so you may have to buy either a torque brace or motor mout inserts to address that issue, it is so minimal you should be able to tell the difference between the engine movement and wheel hop..
this is not my info just reposting to help you guys out
here's my phone# in case you have any questions: 443-807-3662
Tools required:
1. drill
2. step drill or 5/8 drill bit
3. 15/16 wrench
4. 15/16 socket and ratchet
5. adjustable wrench
6. ramps or jack stands
7. under 30 minutes of your time for the install.
First off a picture of the traction bars and a hardware list:
1. 2 - adjustable traction bars with jam nuts
2. 2 - 4 1/2" x 5/8-11 grade 8 bolts (frame rail)
3. 2 - 3" x 5/8-11 grade 8 bolts (control arm)
4. 4 - standard flat washers
5. 8 - lock washers
6. 4 - aluminum tapered spacers
7. 4 - 5/8-11 nylock nuts
Locate the hole in the frame rail the 4 1/2" x 5/8-11 bolt goes here
This picture shows where you must mark the lower control arm for drilling, using a tape measure from the aluminum knub measure inward 2 1/2 inches mark it then mark the center of the control arm
This picture shows what the control arm will look like after you have drilled the 5/8 hole in the control arm, note: use a 1/4 drill bit as a pilot drill so the larger drill does not walk all over the place when drilling and when your done drilling clean all of the shavings off of the top of the control arm.
Next its time to bolt up the traction bars:
hardware in this order from bottom to the top for the lower control arm: 3 1/2" long x 5/8-11 bolt, aluminum spacer, traction bar, aluminum spacer, 2 lock washers, lower control arm, flat washer, nylock nut.
hardware in this order from bottom to the top for the frame rail:4 1/2" long x 5/8-11 bolt, traction bar, aluminum spacer, 2 lock washers, frame rail, flat washer, nylock nut.
this is what the bolt order should look like for the control arm:
[b]This is what the bolt order should look like for the frame:[b]
Make sure before you tighten the 5/8 bolts the traction bars are loose and have plenty of play in them then tighten, Heres what it should look like installed:
Make sure you lubricate the radial bearing with white lithium grease and work it in with a side to side twisting motion after installing and periodically, Heres another picture of what it should look like but showing the top of the frame rail also:
Next we move on to adjusting the traction bars, first you will need to lower the car back down and put the weight of the car back onto the front wheels, start off by making sure the traction bars are loose when the weight of the car is on the front tires, tighten the tubes draw them in the traction bars will get shorter, tighten them by hand until they stop and you can't tighten anymore. using an adjustable wrench tighten the traction bar 1/4 turn to pre load. Tighten the jam nuts and take for a test drive if you have no wheel hop when you launch you are done, if you still have wheel hop tighten bars up 1/4 turn at a time until it is gone do not tighten more than 1 full turn.. Make sure you look at the marks left by your tires if there are no breaks in the tracks you have no wheel hop, if you still feel a little something it is engine movement not wheel hop, so you may have to buy either a torque brace or motor mout inserts to address that issue, it is so minimal you should be able to tell the difference between the engine movement and wheel hop..
10-11-2006, 07:41 AM
#18
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Thanks a lot cobalt06ss sc, nice pics to go along with the write up. Still haven't gotten them on yet, but soon, been busy with some other toys 
.
.
10-11-2006, 07:44 AM
#19
They don't affect suspension travel much... well at least as far as I could tell when I had them on my car.... just gotta be careful with driveways/... if you catch that front bolt on something solid you could def do some damage... but they are well worth... I'm actualy starting to miss mine... they solved the last little bit of wheel hop I had.... oh well time to make my own.
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