Suspension Springs, Shocks, Brakes

camber kit needed w/ sportlines?

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Old 01-01-2009, 04:24 PM
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Originally Posted by qwikredline
the wear on the outer rib in hard cornering is primarily yield from the inner joint. Camber wont fix that....it is interesting that folks lower their cars and dont bother with bump steer, pretty basic and fixing it makes the car a lot nicer to drive on the street. For the camber change lowering there is no need to adjust it, and if the rack is re-positioned you probably dont need to re set toe...imagine that...
Well very few people are aware of the effects of tie rod angle, and even fewer would ever even think to adjust it. Considering I think I was the first person to even MENTION swapping racks let alone actually doing it I doubt anyone would even have the desire address the problem unless someone were to start marketing a solution through a reputable vendor. I personally have some steering gear spacers coming, so I wont suffer as much from the effects of bump steer once I install my new gear.

Originally Posted by marcusicp
How do you adjust the rack? (not THAT rack you dirty minded people) Just shim it with washers or something? I'm a noob with anything but RWD suspension.
You need rack spacers just like the Koni/TimeAttack/Grand Am cars use.

Last edited by Maven; 01-01-2009 at 04:24 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
Old 01-01-2009, 04:31 PM
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Originally Posted by Maven
Well very few people are aware of the effects of tie rod angle, and even fewer would ever even think to adjust it. Considering I think I was the first person to even MENTION swapping racks let alone actually doing it I doubt anyone would even have the desire address the problem unless someone were to start marketing a solution through a reputable vendor. I personally have some steering gear spacers coming, so I wont suffer as much from the effects of bump steer once I install my new gear.



You need rack spacers just like the Koni/TimeAttack/Grand Am cars use.
pm me or contact Josh at OTTP best 30 bucks you ever spent....
Old 01-01-2009, 04:35 PM
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Originally Posted by qwikredline
pm me or contact Josh at OTTP best 30 bucks you ever spent....
Nice! When the time comes I will hit you up.
Old 01-01-2009, 04:41 PM
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Originally Posted by marcusicp
How do you adjust the rack? (not THAT rack you dirty minded people) Just shim it with washers or something? I'm a noob with anything but RWD suspension.
hey rwd suspension cars lowered suffer the same way....front suspension is front suspension...design ride height is just that. less than design makes things off...Maven can run the bump steer class i am bored with it anymore sorry....
Old 01-01-2009, 04:46 PM
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Originally Posted by qwikredline
hey rwd suspension cars lowered suffer the same way....front suspension is front suspension...design ride height is just that. less than design makes things off...Maven can run the bump steer class i am bored with it anymore sorry....
Old 01-01-2009, 04:59 PM
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Originally Posted by qwikredline
hey rwd suspension cars lowered suffer the same way....front suspension is front suspension...design ride height is just that. less than design makes things off...Maven can run the bump steer class i am bored with it anymore sorry....
Yeah, I know that RWD and FWD are the same in that aspect but I meant I only know about the back end of a RWD car. I messed with drag racing a bit and never did much to the front of any car other then springs / struts.
Old 01-01-2009, 05:24 PM
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Originally Posted by marcusicp
Yeah, I know that RWD and FWD are the same in that aspect but I meant I only know about the back end of a RWD car. I messed with drag racing a bit and never did much to the front of any car other then springs / struts.
yup drag racers only care about the rear for good reason, altho' i would be afraid to drive 160 mph + with bicycle front wheels and mustang front brakes
Old 01-01-2009, 05:26 PM
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Originally Posted by qwikredline
i would be afraid to drive 160 mph + with bicycle front wheels and mustang front brakes


Its funny, because its true.
Old 01-01-2009, 05:50 PM
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Question

Originally Posted by Maven
The stock bolts have a splined shoulder on them, thats why you have to beat them into and out of the struts. If you file off these splines you get enough wiggle room on the sturt to make up for most camber issues.
So, I wonder what is the range of camber adjustments we can get from the stock components until camber plates or a camber kite is required. I would assume lowering the car will already used up some of the available range, but how much more negative camber can you get from these stock components after they are already adjusted for the lowered suspension?

Thanks ahead.

Old 01-01-2009, 05:53 PM
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Well put it this way....

I was lowered for almost 2 years before I went in for an alignment. When I went in for my alignment I purchased some SPC camber bolts since I could visually see my camber was off. Factory specs for front camber are -1 degree. My car's front camber was -1.7 degeees L and -2.3 degree R. Pretty bad. I was going through tires like nothing.

So yes, spend the extra money to get camber bolts and an alignment as soon as you can after lowering your car.
Old 01-01-2009, 05:59 PM
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Question

Originally Posted by qwikredline
pm me or contact Josh at OTTP best 30 bucks you ever spent....
You happened to have a picture or a diagram of said part and where it goes? Sorry about all these questions...
Old 01-01-2009, 06:37 PM
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Originally Posted by rocketpunch1221
You happened to have a picture or a diagram of said part and where it goes? Sorry about all these questions...
i cant post pics on this forum i am handicapped. ask maven
Old 01-01-2009, 08:17 PM
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I dont have any pics of what the spacers actually look like handy(the supplier didnt send any) but I probably have some somewhere........

The spacers go under this


The spacer goes where the red paint is.
You pull out your two rack mounting bolts, lift it up, put spacers in place and bolt it back down. Ill take pics of the actual spacers installed once I install them

Last edited by Maven; 01-01-2009 at 08:17 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
Old 01-01-2009, 08:44 PM
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Question

Originally Posted by Maven
Well very few people are aware of the effects of tie rod angle, and even fewer would ever even think to adjust it. Considering I think I was the first person to even MENTION swapping racks let alone actually doing it I doubt anyone would even have the desire address the problem unless someone were to start marketing a solution through a reputable vendor. I personally have some steering gear spacers coming, so I wont suffer as much from the effects of bump steer once I install my new gear.



You need rack spacers just like the Koni/TimeAttack/Grand Am cars use.
So how low can you go for the TC suspension geometry before you need to adjust the tie rod angle by adding spacers to the rack? I always thought the TA or GA cars use custom arms and tie rods vs such simple solution.

Last edited by rocketpunch1221; 01-01-2009 at 09:06 PM.
Old 01-01-2009, 10:08 PM
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Originally Posted by rocketpunch1221
So how low can you go for the TC suspension geometry before you need to adjust the tie rod angle by adding spacers to the rack? I always thought the TA or GA cars use custom arms and tie rods vs such simple solution.
Any drop needs the spacer to be frank. TA GA cars have 100% stock tie rods, rack G6 knuckle until this year, spacers in rack until last year in Utah tech made them take them out . simple solutions are often best hard to beat the integrity and strength of OEM parts for racing. The only knuckle that actually broke on the track was in GM testing at the proving grounds. all the other breakage is in a crash with a car curb wall or whatever....
Old 01-01-2009, 11:01 PM
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and these are bought where and for how much?
Old 01-01-2009, 11:31 PM
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Originally Posted by 07MetallicSC
and these are bought where and for how much?
OverTheTop PERFORMANCE next week....I expect...contact Josh
Old 01-02-2009, 12:12 AM
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Originally Posted by qwikredline
Any drop needs the spacer to be frank. TA GA cars have 100% stock tie rods, rack G6 knuckle until this year, spacers in rack until last year in Utah tech made them take them out . simple solutions are often best hard to beat the integrity and strength of OEM parts for racing. The only knuckle that actually broke on the track was in GM testing at the proving grounds. all the other breakage is in a crash with a car curb wall or whatever....
So the thickness of the spacer (or the amount of spacers) varies depends on how much you lower the car, so it can be customize for a specific suspension set up, right?
Old 01-02-2009, 12:16 AM
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i used a camber kit when i installed my koni/sportline setup.

when i got it aligned it was within .1 degrees or .01 degress. (something like that haha)

without the camber kit it was off quite a bit
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