camber kit needed w/ sportlines?
#26
Senior Member
iTrader: (1)
the wear on the outer rib in hard cornering is primarily yield from the inner joint. Camber wont fix that....it is interesting that folks lower their cars and dont bother with bump steer, pretty basic and fixing it makes the car a lot nicer to drive on the street. For the camber change lowering there is no need to adjust it, and if the rack is re-positioned you probably dont need to re set toe...imagine that...
You need rack spacers just like the Koni/TimeAttack/Grand Am cars use.
Last edited by Maven; 01-01-2009 at 04:24 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
#27
Senior Member
Well very few people are aware of the effects of tie rod angle, and even fewer would ever even think to adjust it. Considering I think I was the first person to even MENTION swapping racks let alone actually doing it I doubt anyone would even have the desire address the problem unless someone were to start marketing a solution through a reputable vendor. I personally have some steering gear spacers coming, so I wont suffer as much from the effects of bump steer once I install my new gear.
You need rack spacers just like the Koni/TimeAttack/Grand Am cars use.
You need rack spacers just like the Koni/TimeAttack/Grand Am cars use.
#29
Senior Member
hey rwd suspension cars lowered suffer the same way....front suspension is front suspension...design ride height is just that. less than design makes things off...Maven can run the bump steer class i am bored with it anymore sorry....
#31
Yeah, I know that RWD and FWD are the same in that aspect but I meant I only know about the back end of a RWD car. I messed with drag racing a bit and never did much to the front of any car other then springs / struts.
#32
Senior Member
yup drag racers only care about the rear for good reason, altho' i would be afraid to drive 160 mph + with bicycle front wheels and mustang front brakes
#34
Senior Member
Thanks ahead.
#35
Not a Sebring
Well put it this way....
I was lowered for almost 2 years before I went in for an alignment. When I went in for my alignment I purchased some SPC camber bolts since I could visually see my camber was off. Factory specs for front camber are -1 degree. My car's front camber was -1.7 degeees L and -2.3 degree R. Pretty bad. I was going through tires like nothing.
So yes, spend the extra money to get camber bolts and an alignment as soon as you can after lowering your car.
I was lowered for almost 2 years before I went in for an alignment. When I went in for my alignment I purchased some SPC camber bolts since I could visually see my camber was off. Factory specs for front camber are -1 degree. My car's front camber was -1.7 degeees L and -2.3 degree R. Pretty bad. I was going through tires like nothing.
So yes, spend the extra money to get camber bolts and an alignment as soon as you can after lowering your car.
#36
Senior Member
#37
Senior Member
#38
Senior Member
iTrader: (1)
I dont have any pics of what the spacers actually look like handy(the supplier didnt send any) but I probably have some somewhere........
The spacers go under this
The spacer goes where the red paint is.
You pull out your two rack mounting bolts, lift it up, put spacers in place and bolt it back down. Ill take pics of the actual spacers installed once I install them
The spacers go under this
The spacer goes where the red paint is.
You pull out your two rack mounting bolts, lift it up, put spacers in place and bolt it back down. Ill take pics of the actual spacers installed once I install them
Last edited by Maven; 01-01-2009 at 08:17 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
#39
Senior Member
Well very few people are aware of the effects of tie rod angle, and even fewer would ever even think to adjust it. Considering I think I was the first person to even MENTION swapping racks let alone actually doing it I doubt anyone would even have the desire address the problem unless someone were to start marketing a solution through a reputable vendor. I personally have some steering gear spacers coming, so I wont suffer as much from the effects of bump steer once I install my new gear.
You need rack spacers just like the Koni/TimeAttack/Grand Am cars use.
You need rack spacers just like the Koni/TimeAttack/Grand Am cars use.
Last edited by rocketpunch1221; 01-01-2009 at 09:06 PM.
#40
Senior Member
Any drop needs the spacer to be frank. TA GA cars have 100% stock tie rods, rack G6 knuckle until this year, spacers in rack until last year in Utah tech made them take them out . simple solutions are often best hard to beat the integrity and strength of OEM parts for racing. The only knuckle that actually broke on the track was in GM testing at the proving grounds. all the other breakage is in a crash with a car curb wall or whatever....
#43
Senior Member
Any drop needs the spacer to be frank. TA GA cars have 100% stock tie rods, rack G6 knuckle until this year, spacers in rack until last year in Utah tech made them take them out . simple solutions are often best hard to beat the integrity and strength of OEM parts for racing. The only knuckle that actually broke on the track was in GM testing at the proving grounds. all the other breakage is in a crash with a car curb wall or whatever....
#44
i used a camber kit when i installed my koni/sportline setup.
when i got it aligned it was within .1 degrees or .01 degress. (something like that haha)
without the camber kit it was off quite a bit
when i got it aligned it was within .1 degrees or .01 degress. (something like that haha)
without the camber kit it was off quite a bit
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