Suspension Springs, Shocks, Brakes

Dear brembo pin

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Old Apr 7, 2013 | 11:37 PM
  #26  
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From: Somewhere, MI
And now it seems like the rear brakes are working like crap after replacement, ebrake goes almost all the way up (pumped it many times to try to take up slack but with no result) and after an extended drive they were near ambient temp when I got out of the car (driver side slightly warm, passenger had no heat in it); although pedal is still spongy so maybe I didn't get the bleed done fully, I flushed it fully and no bubbles were to be seen.
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Old Apr 8, 2013 | 04:47 AM
  #27  
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From: Port Perry
did you rotate the rear pistons back in before installing new rear pads? To adjust the hand brake cable tighten the 6x 1mm nut on the lever underneath the cover.(10 mm socket)

sounds like your weekend has been a challenge!
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Old Apr 8, 2013 | 09:06 AM
  #28  
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From: Somewhere, MI
Yea, one side rotated in without grief, the other wouldn't go in when I spun and pushed by hand, had to add in a bunch of clamp force to get it moving. After I did everything I did burnish the brakes in and everything got hot, just later in the day there was no heat in the rear rotors.

Think I'm going to verify that the cable is operating correctly on both calipers next.

Also I realize I'm an old man now as I'm really sore today ha.
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Old Apr 8, 2013 | 09:13 AM
  #29  
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you guys make me scared to do my brakes lol
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Old Apr 8, 2013 | 10:27 AM
  #30  
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From: Somewhere, MI
Originally Posted by leemanfor
you guys make me scared to do my brakes lol
The take away here is disassemble/clean/grease your brakes often.
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Old Apr 8, 2013 | 10:36 AM
  #31  
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From: Port Perry
Originally Posted by krispy
Yea, one side rotated in without grief, the other wouldn't go in when I spun and pushed by hand, had to add in a bunch of clamp force to get it moving. After I did everything I did burnish the brakes in and everything got hot, just later in the day there was no heat in the rear rotors.

Think I'm going to verify that the cable is operating correctly on both calipers next.

Also I realize I'm an old man now as I'm really sore today ha.
haha. i am afraid that if it takes a lot of force to wind it back in there may be internal corrosion. Brake fluid should be changed annually to stop that. The rear calipers need some TLC sad to say. and good idea check the tree under the rear of the console one cable may be disconnected...
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Old Apr 8, 2013 | 10:55 AM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by krispy
The take away here is disassemble/clean/grease your brakes often.
I havent done my brakes ever on this car. but I've had no issues with them. I have 71k on the car right now
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Old Apr 8, 2013 | 07:26 PM
  #33  
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From: Somewhere, MI
Well the right rear was stuck, visible gap between rotor & pads, was pulling the e brake cable to its limit and after disassembled didn't move when ebrake operated nor pedal was depressed.

Ran the caliper piston in & out a few times, drawing brake fluid out when pulling the caliper out (bleeder closed) and pushing it out when twisting in (bleeder cracked) trying to flush out any corrosion that broke loose. It was tough but got easier presumably as I was breaking loose internal corrosion.

Afterwards brake feel was 100% and back up to full braking power. I was happy Mr. Powell mentioned the ebrake adjustment as I had to remember to relax and re-set my e-brake or it would have been dragging with the new pads as I had previously adjusted it.

I did notice that NAPA has rebuilt rear calipers for $100/ea which is my future step if it gets stuck again (they say 975 and 976 on top of the castings).

Still trying to decide what to do about FL Brembo, still have ~1/3 of the pad life left so it's not urgent.
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Old Apr 9, 2013 | 06:23 PM
  #34  
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From: Maryland
O lord....now I'm worried for the coming weeks when I do a brake job on the car. ****....smh
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