Suspension Springs, Shocks, Brakes

Eibach to Pedders?

Old Dec 11, 2009 | 12:33 PM
  #51  
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haha ok whats everyones imput on progress srpings?
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Old Dec 11, 2009 | 12:35 PM
  #52  
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Originally Posted by Maven
Its actually less than a 1/2" difference from what I remember. Ill have to see if I wrote it down anywhere when I swapped Steddys. He went from sportlines to Pedders.
Heya is what Mr. John said up there correct? lol
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Old Dec 11, 2009 | 01:04 PM
  #53  
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Originally Posted by Maven
Its actually less than a 1/2" difference from what I remember. Ill have to see if I wrote it down anywhere when I swapped Steddys. He went from sportlines to Pedders.
OTTP's site says Pedders lower the front 1.5" and the rear 1.6". The sportlines say 2.0" front and 2.5" rear drop. That would mean 0.5" front difference and 0.9" rear difference. I dunno if those numbers are necessarily correct though.
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Old Dec 11, 2009 | 01:22 PM
  #54  
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Pedders does not lower the rear 1.6". It's more like .75" at most
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Old Dec 11, 2009 | 01:55 PM
  #55  
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well theres also more drop when the car settles not much though.
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Old Dec 11, 2009 | 02:54 PM
  #56  
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Originally Posted by HB_SS/TC
Pedders does not lower the rear 1.6". It's more like .75" at most
I am pretty sure those drop specs are quoted from the LS Cobalts not the SS. The difference in numbers from the sportlines to the Pedders is about half and inch to an inch. How low is the front compared to stock?

I just ordered my Pedders Springs and steering rack spacers from OTTP. . OTTP Hardcore rear anti sway bar will be ordered by next month.
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Old Dec 11, 2009 | 03:11 PM
  #57  
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Terminator, the picture you see in HB_SS/TCs signature is his car on Pedders
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Old Dec 11, 2009 | 03:33 PM
  #58  
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Originally Posted by qwikredline
ya dont need a spring compressor.

loosen but do not remove main strut nut 21mm
jack car put on stands.

put jack under control arm with tension
undo knuckle to strut bolts and nuts 18mm. do not remove bolts. place abs bracket to one side
remove drop link at strut.
go back up remove big nut and then go back down
remove knuckle bolts relax jack
remove strut and change spring. make note of where everything is. the tab on the top spring hat goes to the inside. check thrust bearing and regrease
reassemble in reverse.
check with maven that this is correct.
IDK if this is the correct way but this is how I have done it on a 07 eclipse and a 94 Accord.
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Old Dec 11, 2009 | 09:14 PM
  #59  
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Originally Posted by ls1fbody
Terminator, the picture you see in HB_SS/TCs signature is his car on Pedders
Ok cool thanks. It looks good compared to how my car sits stock. IMO the back could be half an inch lower than that, but handling and ride are way more important to me than looks.
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Old Dec 11, 2009 | 10:08 PM
  #60  
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ya you need the rear up a bit to help rotation....and get an OTTP time attack hardcore bar lol
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Old Dec 13, 2009 | 11:08 AM
  #61  
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Originally Posted by qwikredline
ya you need the rear up a bit to help rotation....and get an OTTP time attack hardcore bar lol
Will be ordered within 2 weeks.
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Old Dec 16, 2009 | 10:08 AM
  #62  
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rissa....are you sure its not the sway bar that is loose that is making the clunk noise?
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Old Dec 16, 2009 | 11:12 AM
  #63  
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I don't know, we haven't gotten a chance to really look at it yet.
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Old Dec 16, 2009 | 01:32 PM
  #64  
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just a quick glance over what i've read so far.

the sway bars do have an issue of walking in the bushings. not much of a lateral constraint was put in place. cost save.

they can, do, and will rub on the LCA.

i do like johns idea of messed up install as far as the hat and spring interlocking.
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Old Dec 16, 2009 | 02:17 PM
  #65  
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From: Costa Mesa CA
Originally Posted by 06black
just a quick glance over what i've read so far.

the sway bars do have an issue of walking in the bushings. not much of a lateral constraint was put in place. cost save.

they can, do, and will rub on the LCA.


i do like johns idea of messed up install as far as the hat and spring interlocking.
This is what i think it was. I was there for the spring install, and i have to check her car, but it just doesn't sound like the spring isn't seated in the hat. Did it make the noise when you drove it Bryan?
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Old Dec 16, 2009 | 02:49 PM
  #66  
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Originally Posted by ls1fbody
This is what i think it was. I was there for the spring install, and i have to check her car, but it just doesn't sound like the spring isn't seated in the hat. Did it make the noise when you drove it Bryan?
i heard one clunk, and at first i wanted to say CV, but it wasn't nearly consistent enough for it to be so.

considering it seems to only happen at full lock, i could see an interference issue here.

I'll defer to what john says, hes got the most practical experience by far.
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Old Dec 16, 2009 | 02:59 PM
  #67  
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From: Costa Mesa CA
True, i always listen to what john says, so i'll give it a look see, but i have a feeling the sway bar is shifted. just my opinion, because i've driven that car quite a few times, and it just seems that if it were the spring to spring had alignment, there would be more noticeable noises or feelings.
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Old Dec 16, 2009 | 03:15 PM
  #68  
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Originally Posted by ls1fbody
True, i always listen to what john says, so i'll give it a look see, but i have a feeling the sway bar is shifted. just my opinion, because i've driven that car quite a few times, and it just seems that if it were the spring to spring had alignment, there would be more noticeable noises or feelings.
What about a worn or dry thrust bearing? If the car does not have steering rack spacers it could be steering rack bind. I had that issue on one of my lifted trucks. Could be the sway bar hitting the LCA but that likely means that a bushing is worn out.
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Old Dec 16, 2009 | 03:19 PM
  #69  
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Originally Posted by Terminator2
What about a worn or dry thrust bearing? If the car does not have steering rack spacers it could be steering rack bind. I had that issue on one of my lifted trucks. Could be the sway bar hitting the LCA but that likely means that a bushing is worn out.
not necessarily, its just a compromised design. an anti-walk ring would be nice, but that's a $1 or so a piece for the good one.(mssc had some awesome stuff)

the new induction placed units are less, but still.

in a world where the bean counters have far more say then the engineering force, **** like this runs rampant.


PS-
Term, love the sig quote!
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Old Dec 16, 2009 | 03:22 PM
  #70  
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Originally Posted by 06black
not necessarily, its just a compromised design. an anti-walk ring would be nice, but that's a $1 or so a piece for the good one.(mssc had some awesome stuff)

the new induction placed units are less, but still.

in a world where the bean counters have far more say then the engineering force, **** like this runs rampant.


PS-
Term, love the sig quote!
I had to sensor it a little. LOL
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Old Dec 16, 2009 | 06:02 PM
  #71  
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So.....I should still get this looked at then? And invest in some rack spacers? lol
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Old Dec 16, 2009 | 06:06 PM
  #72  
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tell you what I'll crawl underneath the car and you'll turn the wheel so I can pinpoint the noise. lol
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Old Dec 16, 2009 | 06:07 PM
  #73  
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Lol okie.
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Old Dec 16, 2009 | 06:13 PM
  #74  
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I was gonna do the same for you Marisa, but i know i remember seeing a mark on your control arm where the sway bar hit it. It could be a number of things, sorry we didn't get around to it when you were over here the other day.
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Old Dec 16, 2009 | 06:20 PM
  #75  
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Lol hun I told you I didn't care I'd rather go out and have fun then make you work! lol
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