dont get pro....not worth the money...no drop in the front and only .5 of an inch in the back...might as well put a extra tire in the trunk to make the rear end of the car go down and save the money

 

But the problem is that with the sportlines my car/cv axles don't seem to like the extreem drop. So that leaves my with a question. What to do. This vibration has become most taxing and driving me nuts. So my thought was with the pros ill get a bit more spring rate and a hair in drop. I love the way the balt handles being lowered but I don't want to distroy anything with this vibration in the mean time. So what to do. Again a few others have pm'd me that they too are having the same issue since installing there sportlines.

 

weird. i know the ride quality sucks when u put lowering springs on but not to the point where i would go back to normal

 

I thought you had said the vibration goes away when you are neutral or have the clutch disengaged.......

How would axles behave in that manner, axles spin at wheel speed regardless of gear selection or clutch state.

 

because there's no load when the car is in neutral. when there's a load on them they vibrate. i had the same problem with my car, and it was a shot cv joint. step on the gas, vibrate like a ****, let off the gas, zero vibrations.

i'm sure there's a more technical answer for the question, but this is the basic idea.

 

Well if its got a damaged or failed CV joint yes load would come heavily into play, but if we are simply talking about driveline angles being off, load shouldnt have any influence on it.

 

from what he said i would think it doesn't have to do with the angles. sounds like something is either loose, or didn't get installed properly, or damaged. but i wouldn't think it would be the axle itself.

 

Well after further investigation I found that the vibration is there at all times, my privious statment was wrong.
I just ordered a new set of cv axles from Rock Auto, found there link on another thread, and for 2 axles shipped its $160.00. Non of the parts stores here had them in stock nor did they know when they could get them, so thats why I ordered from them. They are new, not remans. Im hoping that will solve the problem. If not well then Ill new axles in the car and then install the stock springs.

 

Well now I know its NOT the axles. I changed them today along with the tranny fluid ( which what came out of the tranny was the wrong fluid) and did the breaks and turned the rotors, front and rear.
Tomorrow I am going to another friends house and we are installing the stock springs. THATS IT!!! I have had folks tell me on here it could be front or rear tranny mounts causing the vibration, yes maybe. or tires, again maybe. But I cant afford to keep nickle and dime'n this ******* car. It aint worth it. So Ill post up tomorrow as to the vibration out come with the stock springs back in it. If its still there, the vibration, then Ill look at poly mount inserts. And I have been pricing tires for a while now, but have held off cause of the two sizes Im interested in. If I keep the sportlines Ill run 225/40/18's. If I put the stock springs in and keep them in Ill run 235/40/18 (they are closer number wise to the stock 215/45/18). So Ill keep ya posted.

 

Well I think I figured out what was causing the vibration problem. With the lowering springs installed they do just that lower the body of the car, but the lower control arm comes up do to the shorter spring height. And with that the control arm is now very close to the front sway bar. Mine was actually rubbing. Sway bar was rubbing the lower control arm. And yes on both sides (right and left). I could see the rub marks on the control arm and the corresponding marks on the sway bar when I did the axles and tranny fluid and also breaks last weekend. But didnt put 2 ans 2 together till Sunday when I reinstalled my stock springs.
So the "clunking" I felt was from the two parts hitting each other and the vibration was do to the tq of the wheel under acceleration and the sway bar and control arm resting against each other.
The only way to fix this problem would be cut about a inch out of the length of the sway bar end links and then re weld them back together. This way you are raising the sway bar up and away from the control arm. I could have done this since I am a welder by trade and could have cut them and them Tig welded them back together, but then you have a permanent fix that cant be changed back if you wanted to take the lowering springs out.
So thats why I just installed my stockers, and I have found I like the ride better.
So take a look at your control arms and sway bar where the cross each other and see if you see any marks that shouldnt be there. If you do, then there is your vibration problem.
Stockers are in and no more vibration, drives smooth as glass.
Hope this helps.

 

Thats a good find. Glad you got it sorted. Why not just buy another set of links to modify though? They are cheap. And that would be the perfect excuse to sleeve the links and make them thicker.......

 

I thought of that, but then after spending money on hubs/bearings, axles and then breaks (which I did need), all to try and solve the problem and then I thought Im not spending another dime if I install the stock springs and that fixes the problem.
I know each and every car is different, but I have lowered each and every car I have owned in the past 5 yrs from front wheel drive to rear wheel drive and using Eibachs and H&R springs and never ran into this problem. And that is what drove me nuts. So when I reinstalled the stock springs and took it out for a drive and no vibration occurred I thought thats it Im done.
I did like how the car handled with the sportlines and how it sat, but the ride sucked. Stock springs seem to handle quite well in comparison now, and the ride is so much better.
My plan over time is to get some other suspension mods, like 235/40/18 tires, strut tower bar, lower sub frame bar and some different struts and shocks and maybe a beefier front sway bar (if anyone makes one). Also I want to replace the bushings thru out the suspension with poly bushings.

 

well if you look at the install how to for the fe5 front sway there is a part you have to cut or grind back so this doesn't happen... it does all make since now... hold on a sec.

wait nvm you ahve to grind down the transmount to make room for clearance so it doesn't rub hrm...

not the same issue... well i should be getting the fe5 front sway hope this issue doesn't affect me.

 

I was gonna say, I have done plenty of lowering spring installs and even read on the how to here just in case there was something special I need to know about the Balt. And I didnt see or read anything. You shouldnt have to cut or grind a thing just to install springs.
Now Im not the only one having this problem, I have gotten several PM's asking me if I ever found a fix and now I can say I found the problem. The only fix I can see is either reinstall the stock springs, or cut, shorten and re weld the sway bar end links to then raise the sway bar away from the lower control arm.
Hope this help someone else out there who is having the same problem and going nuts trying to figure out what is going on.

 

did you put the two stabalizer bars back on?

 

I reinstalled the stock springs. Once I did that and headed home from my buddys house there was NO MORE vibration. Mentioned in my above posts what the problem was.

 

sorry ass

 

What?

 

The FE5 sway bar end links are shorter than FE1 links by more than a inch. All you would have to do is put the end links from the FE5. I hope this helps someone else with this issue.

 

How is it that only the OP's car had this..? Wouldn't everyone with the same suspension experience this..? That makes absolutely no sense.

Also, I still have a clunking noise when my car is sitting still and I turn the wheel either way.

 

i have the same problem i feel vibration on the passenger side. after changing, both axles, axle bearing disc brakes and pads and caliper, swaybar bushing, and endlinks still vibrating.

 

i know like 5 different ss/sc's with sport lines on stock suspension and none of them have had problems, it has to be an error in the install.