believe it or not autozone has a kit that gives you pads springs grease and new pins for 70 bucks

good if you dont have 200 + for the brembo pads

 

anyone have some specs on the ferodos hp1000/1?

friction coefficents, heat ranges?

 

Not if you order from CED they're like 160

 

Huh? fade= 900 + degrees.

 

Yeah but when you're coming down to the end of the straightaway at tallaedega doing 195 mph you need to brake and brake hard!!!11!

 

ur dreamin' its a lift is all, the banking is 36+ and you scrub off all sorts of speed just liftin'

me when i was last there, i went in at 187...came out faster....

 

coefficent of friction? im guessing around .50?

 

.50 of what? Popcorn. Dont matter, nothing to compare to...

 

Are you being serious rigth now???

If you are then everyone should disreguard every single post you make because you are ******* retarded...

friction coefficent is a dimensionless scalar....

please for your sake redeem yourself

 

go ahead post the published co -efficients of friction for pads from the aftermarket. *waiting*

 

http://www.raceshopper.com/ferodo_compounds.shtml

and for the OP.. take a look at carbotech, they will be my next set of pads up front... xp8s for me

 

good information Ferrets but what does it mean? YOu have pulled the info from Ferodo, and the 1000 is not covered and neither are the race pads and the ceramic DS1.11. So tell me what it means. I guess I had better google carbotech what co-efficient do the xp8's have and what does it mean to me ( what did you call me? ) a retard who just drives the car...

so here is some retarded research to help you . ferodo HP1000 evidently look pretty good but you wont find them listed here
from Vdub site
It is easy to find subjective opinions about brake pad performance, but often difficult
to find hard data. This post collects hard data on popular brake pads - much of which
has been gleaned from other vwvortex posters.
The friction coefficient is directly proportional to pad grippiness and brake torque.
The max operating temperature is directly related to fade resistance which is an
important factor in choosing a brake pad as well.
Performance categories are organized by friction coefficient and serve as a guide
only - some pads may fit into multiple categories. If you have questions about a
particular pad, it is always best to get a data sheet directly from the manufacturer
to ensure that the latest formulation meets your particular needs.

Please post any corrections or additional data

More brake FAQ material here:
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=2357867


OEM-level Performance
# examples: OEM MkIV pads, Mintex Redbox, Hawk Ceramic
# cF=0.30-0.40
# max temp before fade: 600-700°F (Hawk Ceramic is a little higher on cF, redbox is lower on both cF & fade)
# street use only


Performance Enthusiast/Light Autocross
# examples: Hawk HPS, EBC Greenstuff, EBC Redstuff, Porterfield R4-S, Axxis Ultimate
# cF=0.41-0.45 (EBC pads have higher cF, Greenstuff has poor performance on heavier cars
# max temp before fade: 700-900°F (some pads may be rated higher)
# light auto-cross and performance street use


Autocross/Light Track Pad/HPDE
# examples: Hawk HP+, Carbotech Bobcat, Ferodo DS-2000, EBC Yellowstuff
# cF=0.46-0.49
# max temp before fade: 900-1100°F
# light track days, auto-cross, and performance street use


Track Pad/HPDE
# examples: Ferodo DS-2500, Carbotech Panther Plus, Mintex C-tech 1155
# cF=0.50-0.55
# max temp before fade: 1100-1300°F
# track days and high-performance street use


Race Pad
# examples: Ferodo DS-3000, Hawk Blue 9012, Hawk Black, EBC Bluestuff, Porterfield R4
# cF=0.56-0.68 (depends on specific race application)
# max temp before fade: 1300°F+ (depends on specific race application)
# track use only

By Manufacturer:
# Pagid pads
# Ferodo pads
# Carbotech pads
# Cobalt Friction pads
# Hawk
# http://www.ebcbrakes.com/automotive.html
# http://www.porterfield-brakes.com/pads.html


One more thing:

Mitsu Evo 8 uses HP1000 ferodos on the front, and the Audi R8 uses the HP1000 on the rear...Ferrari and maserati as well with ferrous brake rotors.... so looks like OEM SS/TC brake pads are in good company...

 

Carbotech XP8s are dustier than both HAwk HP+ and stock TC pads in my experience.

Rear brakes on the TC are made by ATE. A big company that makes lots of stuff for botht the aftermarket and OE solutions (They make the Typ200 brake fluid that probably everyone has seen me recommending)

I think I like Cobalts over Carbotechs when it comes to a street pad. the Carbos I ran (Bobcats, still have the shoes in) seemed less firm than even stock, they just didnt feel right to me(they worked well though) I switched back to Hawk for the front.(Cobalt had a lead time when i needed pads thats why i dont have them right now)

 

Ya I Agree but it depends on materials. Race pads are for race. Carbotech specifically say the XP8 are not recommended for the street. Its the same thing with Pagid ceramics. When they are cold first brake apply nothing. Nothing is tough when you really need to stop on a cold morning to stop running over a school crossing guard....HP1000 work all the time, and stand up on the race track. Pretty good deal for me...The stock single piston Cobalt brake pad is similarly pretty darn good. Just sayin' for 99% of the people thats where it is at....

 

I am not really the waxer type who cares about brake dust

And i have not tried the cobalts... I will look into them, but for me, a operating temp range of 200+ works fine... i mean how many panic stops will i be doing aorund town doing 25 anyway?

 

Id seriously reconsider using a 200+ degree pad on the street in any capacity. I think anything on the level of that is gonna be a serious handicap to daily drivability safety. And theres zero reason you would need that much pad in autocross, and as has been mentioned even the stock Ferodos hold up just fine at 130mph+ and stop great when cold as well.

 

In all honesty the Hp1000/1 are great pads, but they are not all mighty

During a spirted high way run i began to experience fade coming down from a triple digit speed, well, it happened after around 15 min of playing on the highway (brake boosting, high speed braking, etc.) And i also plan on going to Pocono a few times this year, and hopefully get down to NJMSP, Lightning looks liek an awsome track!

All in all, i am well aware of how the brakes need to have heat in them to begin to fuction properly, which means two things.

1. I along with maybe 2-3 other people am the only person behind the wheel of my car.
2. While the pads are warming up, no dumb stuff with my right foot

 

Never said they were almighty....but i dont think theres anything thats better on the track and still performs the same on the street.

 

When I shifted into 5th gear at 140 I broke hard !!! 5th gear that is