FYI, I just copy pasted this from my autox forum for ease, so there is a bit of known info for you, but not for them.

Today I had a lot of metal on metal noise coming somewhere from my passenger side front suspension. We have replaced the sway bar bushings, one bad endlink on that side and checked the integrity of all bolts, ball joint, and tie rod (control arm bushings were replaced in Feb.). The only thing I can figure is the sway bar I have (from a SS/SC) is making contact with the control arm (see photo). This noise did not present itself until I replaced the struts from SS/SC struts (05-07) to SS/TC struts(08-10). Below I have provided pictures from my SS/SC sway bar and control arms and SS/TC endlinks and struts compared to my friends SS/TC sway bar, endlink and struts with stock control arms. Side note, SS/TC struts is about a 1/2" drop from the SS/SC struts.

Question 1: Is it possible that because of my setup combination the sway bar is contacting the control arm (causing the noise I was hearing all day).

Question 2: Should I back out of my event tomorrow or will it be fine to live with and get a new bar before next race? Side note, the sway bar is solid steel and the control arm is aluminum.

(my sway bar location and curvature)


(gap on my sway bar/control arm) (arrow is where I think you can see scuffing from the contact)


(his sway bar location and curvature)


(his gap from sway bar/ control arm)


Thanks for any and all insight!

 

Sort of a late reply... but I believe I am having the same problem lol! If I make an aggressive turn I hear some metal on metal rubbing/noise from the passenger side. I lifted my car up and I saw some rust in the same area as your red circle. I am a base Cobalt, I swapped my old sway bar for a Cobalt TC (LNF) sway bar, upgraded my control arms from Fe1 to Fe5 (pre-2008), and I am lowered on coil overs.

This is what I saw when I took off my end links are rotated the sway bar a little bit to get a better look.





Have you tried using smaller length end links? If you try smaller length end links it'll rotate the sway bar up giving you a little bit more clearance in your red circle. That is what I was planning on trying.
I tried using Microsoft Paint to explain my reasoning visually haha, so excuse my artistic touch -_-

 

I have the shorter 12in Moogs already. I was considering getting shorter ones that just fit, but I've opted to try a TC bar instead. I put painters tape on the control arm and none of it scratched off after a full day of AutoX so I've ruled that out as the cause. Two other theories have arrised now.

1. The sway bar is flexing due to the amount of stress (dont know how that produces the noise) but it came from a respectable car guy
2. My new theory is that the base models came with a one bolt system for the sway bar bushings. With as much load as I put on these things the tab might be semi-lifting out and popping back in every time. I wish I could switch to the two bolt system like the SS's have, but that would require a lot of front end swapping that I'm not willing to do.

If I can beat a 12 WRX in autox and nothing broke I'm not terribly concerned about the safety of it any more.

Too bad .net community doesn't have any input on this topic. I was hoping at least John Powell would chime in.

 

You can get custom length end links from Chip @ Powergrid Inc. if you decide to go that route.

I believe you can fit the two bolt style clamp in your car. I think all you have to do is drill the hole and add a bolt. John Powell has done this before if I'm not mistaken...

If you figure the problem out let me know, I'm hoping the sound you're hearing is the same as mine lol!

 

I'll definitely let you know. I'm ordering the TC bar shortly, but wont have time for install until the second weekend in July.

 

two bolt fixing already posted on here. and clamps for the bar to stop it moving side to side.

 

@Blackbalts: is changing out the sway bar a pain in the butt for you? I had to lower the subframe when I swapped in my SS/TC (LNF) sway bar. I read that you don't have to lower the subframe when swapping but I couldn't get it to come out without lowering it lol

@Powell: where does one purchase the clamps for the bar to stop it from moving side to side? I've never seen that clamp before on the sway bar in your picture. Also, is there an easy way to drill that second hole when trying to retrofit the 2 bolt clamp? I don't have access to a lift and want to avoid dropping the subframe to line up the hole.

I'm leaning towards the 2 bolt clamp retrofit now after some consideration.

 

you have to drop the subframe to do it. You can just drop the rear and do it but thats difficult. You can leave the motor hanging on the top mount and drop the cradle and take your time and do it right the first time. I can supply the sway bar clamps, contact orders@powellraceparts.com for price and shipping ( not much they are small)

working without a lift is not that difficult. As the Powell Raceshop is so busy and my mother is now coming to 98 years old, I do more and more work out at my home shop ( 3 bays) and dont have a hoist in there yet...so any " how to " respects that many folks dont have a lift.


Some things a lift is easiest by far. Clutch for example. but cradle? Wrap a small tie down around the radiator assembly securing it to the upper tie bar; Remove inner fender clips and screws;disconnect the ball joint cross bolts and the sway bar end links' undo the front and rear motor mounts; undo the two steering rack securing bolts; undo the two front rad supports from the cradle; support cradle with jack with a piece of plywood' remove the four cradle bolts. Lower the cradle.

etc update cradle sway bar pillow blocks install new bar clamps ( chisel off plastic OEM sleeves) reassemble.

torque values; cradle bolts 145 ft lbs. cross bolts for b all joints 37 ft lbs + 25 degrees; 42 ft lbs for motor mounts. 87 ft lbs for rack bolts.

etc

 

Sounds good, thanks for the input.

Also, I am assuming that you used nyloc nut for that second bolt right?

 

Are you saying this is the solution to the problem, or just a fix for a theory I had?

I'll search for the thread and start pulling the car apart if this will solve the issue. I'm sure it's not a safety concern, but I feel like it should be resolved either way.

 

Just went through all the how to's and it's not out there. Is this on another thread that I cant find easily?

 

A fix for a theory you had. I am not sure if there will be a "How-To" thread for this as not many people with base Cobalts do this mod. I was just pointing out that you should be able to do a 2 bolt clamp retrofit without having to swap out the subframe.

 

what springs do you run?

 

I (according to CED) am the first American running the YYZ v3's.

 

Does it sound like spring coil bind? or something like end links clunk?

I know my f....um.... the red aussie springs, whatever they are f'ing called, when I turn bind and make a metal on metal noise.

I didn't fully read the top posts...so my bad if you already stated the noise sound or know what it is.

 

To test my original theory of the sway bar and control arm making contact I put some painters tape on the arm, no rubbing. I think I will do the same with the bushing bracket and see if it is popping or not. This fix looks like a lot of work just to find out it possibly doesn't fix anything!

Adjustable endlinks might come after I replace the sway bar if I still get the noise.

 

How to for what? I just posted how to do the subframe drop. drilling a hole using the upgraded bracket has to be pretty easy I think.

 

I'm not familiar with the sound of axle bind to be honest. Here is a video from one of the runs I did. Maybe you can tell.

You mention clamps to keep the bar from moving side to side and the pic looks like there are other clamps than the bushing bracket. Thought there might be more to it.

 

i sell a clamp for the bar you chisel off the old plastic sleeve which walks on the bar, and put in this clamp.

 

I'll PM you later. I'm in need of the rear torsion bushings as well so might just get it all at once. thanks John!