New ZZP front sway bar making noise - Cobalt SS Network



Suspension Springs, Shocks, Brakes
Sponsored by:
Sponsored by:

Reply
 
 
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 07-06-2018, 10:44 PM   #1  
New Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: 07-04-18
Location: Winnipeg
Posts: 27
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Exclamation New ZZP front sway bar making noise

Hello, I'm having a problem with my car and was hoping perhaps someone could help me out with some insight?

Months ago I installed the ZZP strut tower brace, weeks ago I installed my rear ZZP sway bar and today a technician installed a front ZZP sway bar with an alignment on my car.

On my drive home, I was really having fun with the new upgrade, until I got onto uneven road; I heard a horrible noise sounding like I bottomed out, like something was dragging or caught in my wheels. I made a left turn at an intersection still on uneven road and heard it again faintly. So I pull over to look under my car which I expect to be dragging a sway bar I see what I believe to be a perfectly installed sway bar.

I tried to move the stability links and grabbed the sway bar itself to see if I could move it, nope. The bushings brand new, brand new links, the bushings looked greased.
My shocks are 80000km old (age of the car), they started to make the *squisssh* noise a while ago but otherwise could handle the several speed bumps on my way home.

Anyway I continue driving, I hit a railroad track I hear it faintly, but not so much, the car handled better than previously.
Going over the first speed bump was a really, really bad noise, so crawled over the next one and the next one, heard it again and again.
When I parked, looked under it a while longer.
The car seemed fine, Other than being a very humid/ hot day, only thing that looked concerning was the amount of condensation dripping down my ac lines from my un-heat shielded headers.

What could this noise be?
I know Cobalt's have front end rattle but that didn't sound like it and I don't think I could've bottomed out at any point during my ride.
My car is stock height. There are no natural hills where I live, pot holes are avoidable not all roads are perfectly even though.
I experienced with the rear sway bar, where during three turns it *creeeaked* and scared the crap out of me, but never again and Is amazing.

Is there a similar adjusting the car needs to make for the front now?
Or has the upgrade thrown my old struts over the edge?
To my knowledge it was installed perfectly.
Maybe it will go away,
G5ALIVE is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-07-2018, 03:05 PM   #2  
New Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: 07-04-18
Location: Winnipeg
Posts: 27
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Help

Update was looked at by a technician the sway since yesterday is all scratched up. Above and below it looks like. The sway bar is hitting the sub frame thereís not much room clearance wise for the shocks to depress and pull on the stability links. Was it installed wrong, do I need to lower my car.
The technician believe there would be more clearance if lowered. He tried grinding away at the sub fram. But the bottom of the stability links have a cm before the hit the control arms
G5ALIVE is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-07-2018, 04:41 PM   #3  
HGT
Senior Member
 
HGT's Avatar
 
Join Date: 03-17-17
Location: Parker Colorado
Posts: 1,592
Thanked 55 Times in 54 Posts
Can you post some pics?
HGT is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-07-2018, 05:03 PM   #4  
New Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: 07-04-18
Location: Winnipeg
Posts: 27
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
[left]
No I shouldíve, I came under the car with the mechanic there was one point in the middle of the sub fram he grinned down suspecting that to Be a part of the issue. But I saw scratches at both ends of the sway bar right at their ends. But going down a bad road itís thunder down there preventing my car from freely handle on even terrain [img]blob:https://www.cobaltss.net/37f5b0b3-1d01-4dc2-8af5-107c655d7c3b[/img]
G5ALIVE is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-07-2018, 07:00 PM   #5  
New Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: 07-04-18
Location: Winnipeg
Posts: 27
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
I think I solved this. When installing the rear sway bar I installed 11.8" links, when I should've used 9.86".
Which brought on some under steer which I thought would be solved with upgrading the sway bar.
In turn, the slightly different designed sway bar was enough mess things up dramatically.
5 lug Cobalt/G5's, regardless of being a 2.2l should use the 9.86" links?
G5ALIVE is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-07-2018, 07:06 PM   #6  
HGT
Senior Member
 
HGT's Avatar
 
Join Date: 03-17-17
Location: Parker Colorado
Posts: 1,592
Thanked 55 Times in 54 Posts
That would be a good idea.
HGT is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-10-2018, 06:39 PM   #7  
New Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: 07-04-18
Location: Winnipeg
Posts: 27
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Well it gets better.... not.

New shorter sway bar links definitely helped. But it has not solved my problem. The mechanics have told me my d clamps retaining the bushings have popped out. The re secured it and attempted to pry it off again saying it will hold.
Now my clams do not have two screw holes, one side of the clamp slides in, the other is bolted down. I can understand that happening, but I attempted to lift the bar or move it, it seems Solid. Regardless I found some HHR two sided bolt on clamps that I think will fit.
Part of me doesnít thing thatís an issue but regarldess I requested the shop Forman to fix my car already tomorrow.

Perks of working at a car dealership is I can keep brining it back till itís fixed but itís more painful being there. And to know such stupid people are allowed to work on vehicles these days.
Realistically everything looks correctly installed and stable this time, starting to think something could be upside down or backwards, but that couldnít happen?


G5ALIVE is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-11-2018, 08:11 AM   #8  
Senior Member
iTrader: (1)
 
Join Date: 02-03-16
Location: Kansas
Posts: 3,214
Thanked 100 Times in 96 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by G5ALIVE View Post
Well it gets better.... not.

New shorter sway bar links definitely helped. But it has not solved my problem. The mechanics have told me my d clamps retaining the bushings have popped out. The re secured it and attempted to pry it off again saying it will hold.
Now my clams do not have two screw holes, one side of the clamp slides in, the other is bolted down. I can understand that happening, but I attempted to lift the bar or move it, it seems Solid. Regardless I found some HHR two sided bolt on clamps that I think will fit.
Part of me doesn’t thing that’s an issue but regarldess I requested the shop Forman to fix my car already tomorrow.

Perks of working at a car dealership is I can keep brining it back till it’s fixed but it’s more painful being there. And to know such stupid people are allowed to work on vehicles these days.
Realistically everything looks correctly installed and stable this time, starting to think something could be upside down or backwards, but that couldn’t happen?



If you installed a stiffer sway bar you need to convert to the 2-bolt bushing bracket because of the higher load. I don't know if your bracket failed because the single bolt and tab configuration actually deflected enough for the tab side to come loose of if they were installed incorrectly without the tab properly seated from the beginning but you should just go ahead and convert to the two bolt clamp. It will require drilling a couple holes for the extra bolt on each clamp but needs to be done because any aftermarket or even TC or SC Cobalt sway bars are way stiffer than your stock sway bar.

FE1 vs. FE5 sway bar
jdbaugh1 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-11-2018, 10:00 AM   #9  
HGT
Senior Member
 
HGT's Avatar
 
Join Date: 03-17-17
Location: Parker Colorado
Posts: 1,592
Thanked 55 Times in 54 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by jdbaugh1 View Post
If you installed a stiffer sway bar you need to convert to the 2-bolt bushing bracket because of the higher load. It will require drilling a couple holes for the extra bolt on each clamp
Have you personally done this?
HGT is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-11-2018, 10:52 AM   #10  
New Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: 07-04-18
Location: Winnipeg
Posts: 27
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
I found some for the HHR/ 2009-2010 cobalt ss. Dual bolt on both sides. And they should Be an exact fit of the bushings.

Technicians are looking at me like this ainít what your car has....
Gonna have them try to slid it under the cradle, but otherwise theyíll have to lower the fram and drill a new hole
G5ALIVE is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-11-2018, 10:57 AM   #11  
Senior Member
iTrader: (1)
 
Join Date: 02-03-16
Location: Kansas
Posts: 3,214
Thanked 100 Times in 96 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by HGT View Post
Have you personally done this?

Yes. I dropped the cradle to do it though.
jdbaugh1 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-11-2018, 11:00 AM   #12  
New Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: 07-04-18
Location: Winnipeg
Posts: 27
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
did You consider sliding one side under?
The dual bolt bracket is longer and would be able to slid under, and not pop up.

Or or did you not see that as an option?
G5ALIVE is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-11-2018, 11:02 AM   #13  
HGT
Senior Member
 
HGT's Avatar
 
Join Date: 03-17-17
Location: Parker Colorado
Posts: 1,592
Thanked 55 Times in 54 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by jdbaugh1 View Post
Yes. I dropped the cradle to do it though.
Any pics of how you fastened it?
HGT is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-11-2018, 11:24 AM   #14  
Senior Member
iTrader: (1)
 
Join Date: 02-03-16
Location: Kansas
Posts: 3,214
Thanked 100 Times in 96 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by HGT View Post
Any pics of how you fastened it?

Its in a really hard area to get a good picture of but I just secured the end with a nut and bolt through a singe layer of the subframe with the nut being accessible only when the control arm is removed.
jdbaugh1 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-11-2018, 11:29 AM   #15  
HGT
Senior Member
 
HGT's Avatar
 
Join Date: 03-17-17
Location: Parker Colorado
Posts: 1,592
Thanked 55 Times in 54 Posts
What bar is that? FE3, FE5
Why the collars?
HGT is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-11-2018, 11:35 AM   #16  
Senior Member
iTrader: (1)
 
Join Date: 02-03-16
Location: Kansas
Posts: 3,214
Thanked 100 Times in 96 Posts
FE5 24mm off TC Cobalt. John Powell actually sent this bar to me and included the collar clamps and said to put them on there to keep the bar from shifting axially. Also paired it with PowerGrid adjustable end links.
jdbaugh1 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-12-2018, 10:43 AM   #17  
New Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: 07-04-18
Location: Winnipeg
Posts: 27
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
[img]blob:https://www.cobaltss.net/6d66a8bb-f69b-40d9-b548-eef353da3bf5[/img]
G5ALIVE is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-12-2018, 10:44 AM   #18  
New Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: 07-04-18
Location: Winnipeg
Posts: 27
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Not sur eif people can see these but my bushing clamps were noticeably warped [img]blob:https://www.cobaltss.net/84bc27b5-b4d8-4d8c-9d9d-64ceb85722c2[/img]
G5ALIVE is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-12-2018, 10:45 AM   #19  
New Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: 07-04-18
Location: Winnipeg
Posts: 27
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
No modification was required, dual bolt clamps were bent slightly, slide right in and bolted down. We did not drill a second hole nor did we lower the sub frame. The dual bolt bracket can slid in with a quick bend
G5ALIVE is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-12-2018, 11:27 AM   #20  
Senior Member
iTrader: (1)
 
Join Date: 02-03-16
Location: Kansas
Posts: 3,214
Thanked 100 Times in 96 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by G5ALIVE View Post
No modification was required, dual bolt clamps were bent slightly, slide right in and bolted down. We did not drill a second hole nor did we lower the sub frame. The dual bolt bracket can slid in with a quick bend
So you put two bolts on each clamp? From what you described it sounded like you used the two bolt clamp in the same fashion in which the single bolt clamp with a tab was configured, with a single bolt and the flange on the other side tucked into the slot with no second bolt.
jdbaugh1 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-12-2018, 11:32 AM   #21  
HGT
Senior Member
 
HGT's Avatar
 
Join Date: 03-17-17
Location: Parker Colorado
Posts: 1,592
Thanked 55 Times in 54 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by G5ALIVE View Post
Not sur eif people can see these
Nope....
HGT is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-12-2018, 11:33 AM   #22  
Senior Member
iTrader: (1)
 
Join Date: 02-03-16
Location: Kansas
Posts: 3,214
Thanked 100 Times in 96 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by HGT View Post
Nope....

Can't see it here either. Did you use the built in image uploader?
jdbaugh1 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-12-2018, 11:36 AM   #23  
Senior Member
 
ProfDNS's Avatar
 
Join Date: 01-31-16
Location: Out of my mind.
Posts: 827
Thanked 41 Times in 35 Posts
He can't use the BB tags ([IMG]) and use the insert at the same time. It sanitizes the image, hence the "blob:" aspect. That's how images are saved inside of MySQL databases.

If it doesn't work, use imgur.
ProfDNS is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-12-2018, 12:04 PM   #24  
New Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: 07-04-18
Location: Winnipeg
Posts: 27
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts



G5ALIVE is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-12-2018, 12:10 PM   #25  
New Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: 07-04-18
Location: Winnipeg
Posts: 27
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Quote:Originally Posted by G5ALIVE
No modification was required, dual bolt clamps were bent slightly, slide right in and bolted down. We did not drill a second hole nor did we lower the sub frame. The dual bolt bracket can slid in with a quick bend

So you put two bolts on each clamp? From what you described it sounded like you used the two bolt clamp in the same fashion in which the single bolt clamp with a tab was configured, with a single bolt and the flange on the other side tucked into the slot with no second bolt.

that would be correct we used the dual sided bolt clamps, as if they were single bolt clamps
G5ALIVE is offline   Reply With Quote
 
 
Reply

Related Topics
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
XXX powell rear sway bar or trade for Hardcore rear sway bar SONIC BOOM Wanted - What to buy - All categories 12 08-26-2015 02:19 PM
?Rear Sway Bar OR Front Strut Bar? james_fawaz The Lounge 19 01-25-2013 01:24 PM
Powell HC sway bar vs. XXX sway bar Melon Suspension 46 10-04-2012 10:32 AM
Wanted LF Front and Rear sway bar kits and front link kits and IC Pump trec2cobalt Parts 0 02-09-2012 02:13 PM
front sway bar, upper front strut bar, or both?? allblack2 Suspension 13 12-27-2007 02:29 AM


Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off



All times are GMT -4. The time now is 02:04 AM.


We are a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for us to earn fees by linking to Amazon.com and affiliated sites.