Suspension Springs, Shocks, Brakes

rear brakes

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Old Mar 19, 2012 | 08:09 PM
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rear brakes

So i have an 09 tc. rear brake job was done yesterday hawk pads and rotors. before i did the brakes they would rattle around when i went over any size crack or bump. it wouldnt make any noise if i hit the brakes while going over the bumps. everything was fine until today. the rattling is back. however is only slight but getting louder again. its the most annoying thing ever. Anyone have any ideas? I wish i could put this damn thing in the river.
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Old Mar 21, 2012 | 04:23 PM
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Anyone???

It's the inner pads that are loose. Have no idea why.
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Old Apr 13, 2012 | 01:44 AM
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Bump. I'm having this same problem. Aftermarket (don't know the brand) pads on the car when I got it. It got louder and louder. Took it to the dealership and had OEM pads installed and rotors turned and E brake cable adjusted. At first pretty quiet but then the rattling increased. Changed fluid and am now on Hawk HPS pads and they are making the same noise. It's not the sliding pins or the anti rattle clip thing in the front or the outside brake pads.

If there is a crack in the street it clicks/clunks loud when the back tires go over it. If I pull up just a hair on the E brake it prevents it but if I tighten the cable so much that the clunk goes away there is rubbing/heat because the pads are touching the rotors constantly. It's the inside pads. If I take the tire off, I can move the pad up and down just a little bit.

******* drives me nuts. Currently researching a shim or some kind of material to make the part of the pad that sets inside the caliber and slides wider. Also contemplating using two sets of pads and putting the outside pads (with the spring things attached) on both the inside and outside of the calipers.

It's like the caliper is slightly too big. I can't believe there aren't more people having this problem. I swear I searched. LOL
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Old Apr 13, 2012 | 09:55 AM
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Hmm, that really shouldn't be possible unless your caliper and rotor aren't lined up with each other, or your rotor is warped (not really possible in the rear). Either of those would result in knock back, and then you'll get rattle.

Not sure what to tell you since I've never seen this issue, other than, make sure the caliper is on straight, and the bolts are properly tightened. You can try caliper "grease" which is a little sticky, and may help keep the pad against the piston, and caliper.

I forget, does the rear inside have a spring to fit it inside the piston?
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Old Apr 13, 2012 | 08:48 PM
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Originally Posted by Wangspeed
Hmm, that really shouldn't be possible unless your caliper and rotor aren't lined up with each other, or your rotor is warped (not really possible in the rear). Either of those would result in knock back, and then you'll get rattle.

Not sure what to tell you since I've never seen this issue, other than, make sure the caliper is on straight, and the bolts are properly tightened. You can try caliper "grease" which is a little sticky, and may help keep the pad against the piston, and caliper.

I forget, does the rear inside have a spring to fit it inside the piston?
I need to take a pic. The dealership service department looked and said everything was there and put together right but the problem was aftermarket pads that were just a tad too short. Of course, who knows if the dealership is right. My inside pads just sit in a groove that allows them to slide back and forth. The piston that pushes on them appears to be where it should. I swear it's like the inside portion of the caliper is just a tad too big but since they're all cast from the same mold I don't see how that could happen. The only thing I've been able to see that's different from others is the E brake cable. After it leaves the handle and splits, it's a little uneven. One connection is a bit farther back than the other. I'll see if I can get pics or a video.
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Old Apr 14, 2012 | 03:00 AM
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Well, long story short... I feel dumb.... but it wasn't totally my fault. The inner pads were on the outside and the outter pads were on the inside.

When I bought the car 7 months ago it was used at a Dodge dealership. Due to the crap OEM setup, the dealership had to turn the rotors and install new pads at 18K miles. The Dodge dealership mixed up the pads. At first it clicked a little over bumps but then it got worse. So then I take it to the GM dealership. They say that the cause is aftermarket pads that don't fit in the caliper. They install OEM pads and turn the rotors. Not long after that, the rattling is back. I do a hub conversion and install new rotors and Hawk HPS pads. I put the pads exactly the way the GM dealership did.

Tonight I was gonna take a video. While I was in there I kept thinking that the inside pads need some kind of shim like the spring things on the outside pads. Then I said to myself, "Could the fix really be that easy? Did the Dodge dealer, GM dealer and then myself all put these bitches in backwards?" Sure enough. Switched them and everything is clean, smooth, quite and fits nicely.

I still blame Chevy's crappy brakes. There is no reason that the pads had to be replaced and the rotors turned at 18K miles other than bad materials or design. I don't really blame the Dodge guys because they didn't know what the hell they were doing. Not happy with the GM dealership because they copied the Dodge guys' mistakes, didn't correctly identify the problem and basically ripped me off.

Oh well. Live and learn. LOL.

Maybe the OP has the same problem.
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Old Apr 14, 2012 | 03:09 AM
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yup its nice to have brakes
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Old Apr 14, 2012 | 03:17 AM
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i removed mine...racing weight
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Old Apr 14, 2012 | 03:18 AM
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hmmmm i might have to that,,,, the brembos alone should be good right??
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Old Apr 14, 2012 | 03:20 AM
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naw dude. Sell the Brembos..they are overrated. i swapped some LT brakes on the front and just but remote control C-Clamps on the back.
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Old Apr 14, 2012 | 03:22 AM
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hmmmm good idea! man your a real pal! thanks bro!
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Old Apr 14, 2012 | 03:27 AM
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no problem!
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