Suspension Springs, Shocks, Brakes

Rear brakes problem - simple fix or no?

Old Jul 14, 2011 | 03:46 PM
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Rear brakes problem - simple fix or no?

Hello, and thank you for viewing this thread, any help much appreciated!

I just replaced my rear pads and rotors the other day on my 06 ss/sc.

Brakes seem to work fine (though my e-brake isn't working/needs to be adjusted)
except when i'm taking a right turn while braking, i hear a scraping noise on the rear right. Any thoughts on what this may be? The wheel spins freely with no scraping when i had the car jacked up, and don't make any other noise simply while braking. My only thoughts, given my limited knowledge of brakes, is that maybe i installed on of the retainer clips off to the side or something, but really i'm clueless.

Okay, GO!
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Old Jul 14, 2011 | 04:00 PM
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anyone?
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Old Jul 14, 2011 | 05:30 PM
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Originally Posted by riceburner
Hello, and thank you for viewing this thread, any help much appreciated!

I just replaced my rear pads and rotors the other day on my 06 ss/sc.

Brakes seem to work fine (though my e-brake isn't working/needs to be adjusted)
except when i'm taking a right turn while braking, i hear a scraping noise on the rear right. Any thoughts on what this may be? The wheel spins freely with no scraping when i had the car jacked up, and don't make any other noise simply while braking. My only thoughts, given my limited knowledge of brakes, is that maybe i installed on of the retainer clips off to the side or something, but really i'm clueless.

Okay, GO!
Hard to say. I would first try some HARD braking....60-30 4 or 5 times. See if you can get those pads to bed in. I don't know why it's just on rt turns though. If that doen't help I would reinstall pads again.
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Old Jul 14, 2011 | 05:40 PM
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ya take it apart and redo it, make sure the sliders are lubed and the pad guides are lubed as well to ensure they are able to move correctly. also adjust your ebrake, the wheel should spin but also have some resistance to it (like when you spin it, it should stop after a few moments, not keep going for an extended period of time) and try again. also check to see if your shock is leaking or if there are any evident rubbing marks on the tire.

and the little clip for the rotor is not required once they've been taking off, they were put on there mainly to hold them in place at the factory while it was being assembled
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Old Jul 15, 2011 | 08:49 AM
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ok so i got home last night and jacked the car up - took off my rims, and realized theres like 1/8th inch of play between the rotor and the bolts in the holes, like you can def. wiggle the rotor around. so, thinking that was too much play, i went to napa to get a different set, but they did the same thing when i test fitted them, so thats wierd!

adjusted my e-brake (which needs the springs replaced by the caliper for SURE) and everything seemed fine on my assembly job, so yea, its probably just still needing to wear in the pads, i'm gonna do a lil hard braking and see what happens thanks
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Old Jul 15, 2011 | 01:24 PM
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Originally Posted by riceburner
ok so i got home last night and jacked the car up - took off my rims, and realized theres like 1/8th inch of play between the rotor and the bolts in the holes, like you can def. wiggle the rotor around. so, thinking that was too much play, i went to napa to get a different set, but they did the same thing when i test fitted them, so thats wierd!

adjusted my e-brake (which needs the springs replaced by the caliper for SURE) and everything seemed fine on my assembly job, so yea, its probably just still needing to wear in the pads, i'm gonna do a lil hard braking and see what happens thanks
There will always be some wiggle room, but isn't that suppose to be taken care off my the shape of the lug-nut? Or is that something that my dad told me when I was 12 and i've just took it as truth over the last 16 years?

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Old Jul 15, 2011 | 02:00 PM
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I've never had a car in 34 years of driving where the rotors (or drums) fit tight on the lugs.
Once the lug nuts are properly tightened (with a torque wrench please ) the wheel will clamp it to the hub tight enought that it will not move.

No idea why it would only be noisy when turning right unless you didn't get the lug nuts tightened up enough on that side.
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Old Jul 15, 2011 | 02:12 PM
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yea idk either, i mean i know there needs to be a LITTLE wiggle room for the rotors to fit on, but damn 1/8th inch?!? idk i checked to see if i had bent the dust shield, everything seemed fine so i put the wheels back on nice and tight, just drove it on luchbreak and didn't notice any scraping so idk what it was
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Old Jul 15, 2011 | 07:14 PM
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Originally Posted by riceburner
ok so i got home last night and jacked the car up - took off my rims, and realized theres like 1/8th inch of play between the rotor and the bolts in the holes, like you can def. wiggle the rotor around. so, thinking that was too much play, i went to napa to get a different set, but they did the same thing when i test fitted them, so thats wierd!

adjusted my e-brake (which needs the springs replaced by the caliper for SURE) and everything seemed fine on my assembly job, so yea, its probably just still needing to wear in the pads, i'm gonna do a lil hard braking and see what happens thanks
If these are AFTERMARKET WHEELS....Order a hub ring to insert into the wheel center. You need to order them depending on wheel application. You want it HUB centered...not wheel centered. Small space won't matter as long as the nuts sink into the hole properly. I don't uderstand how there can be any play (rotor movement) at all with the lugs torqued down all the way.
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