doing brake job right now but the rear piston wont go back in. i also took off the brakefluid cover and no success...

any ideaS?

 

Been there done this, you need a special tool to turn the piston in..

 

the rear calipers are work with the e brake, so you need that special tool to turn the piston back in

 

what the hell.... any ideas?

 

Yeah, you need a special tool. I still managed to do it with a C-clamp and just turned very slowly and carefully.

 

get a pair of needle nose pliers...push and turn clockwise to get them to compress.

no special tool required....

 

u need me 2 come show u matt?

 

Go to Murrays or Autozone and buy the tool. It's like $5.

 

it's like a box with holes in it...every auto store should have it. It's a little more expensive but not over 10 bucks.

 

yep i picked it up at autozone, worked like a charm, thanks guys

 

the open end of a regular Craftsman 18mm wrench worked quite well

 

I did the same thing

 

hey i got a question its my first time doing brakes on the cobalt and i just got done with the fronts. im working on the rears i read the how to on how to change brakes but it doesnt explain the rears. i took off 2 bolts on the rear calipers to take it off but it wont budge like there is another bolt holding it down? is doing the rear suppose to be the same as doing the fronts except for using the cube tool to turn the pistons in?

never mind im a dummy i just disengage theparking brake and it came right off but now i have another problem i got everything put back on with stop tech slotted rotors and hawks hps pads. i took it for a drive and tried to break it in properly but something is wrong the brake pedal goes down too far and it defitely doesnt stop better than stock? anything i could have done wrong? the brake fluid is near max level i dont get it?

 

Assuming you dont have a leak now for some reason.(GO LOOK)

Go use your park brake a bunch of times, you need to screw the pistons back out that you screwed in when you did brake job, thats how you do it, with the park brake lever

if park doesnt fix it, its most likely from pushing the pistons in, this pushes dirty fluid back through the system and into the BPMV(abs unit) give a spongy pedal feeling, if its not leaking and it safe to drive, find an open parking lot and do a few(not back to back unless your brakes are properly burnished/bedded) panic stops so the ABS kicks in, this often will help the pedal feel a bit. if it doesnt, you should hit up a dealer where you can talk to a tech privately, and have him/her run the ABS Automated bleed on the car with the Tech2. Ask the tech to just run the tech2 procedure, not to actually bleed the brakes though..... This cycles all the valves and frees up fluid(air if any) thats inside the BPMV, just the cycling of the valves helps a lot in many cases. If you still have a crappy pedal and there are no mechanical problems are hydraulic issues(leaks) youre proly gonna need to actually bleed the brakes. You and a helper can do this yourself....


They way to avoid this in the future(if its due to fluid reversion....nice word right?) is to open the bleeder screw when you push piston in, so it squirts out the old fluid when you compress piston, and doesnt force it back through lines.this way you can just do a quick bleed when youre done and you should be golden

 

after u do the rear brakes u have to engage and disengage the parking brake a bunch of times. also did u pump the brakes up before u moved the car?

 

i did pump the brakes before i moved and no i didnt do the parking brake thing just engage it and then disengage it a bunch of time? can i do it right now even after i went driving?

 

Yes, you have to.

 

definitely

 

i will take the car in the morning and have the dealer tech do the tech2 procedure thanks maven

 

Did you do the park brake exercises?

 

i just did and it fixed the problem thanks so much maven i feel so relieved now!

 

cool.